Have you lowered your mini?
#1
Have you lowered your mini?
Hey just wondering if anyone has lowered their mini?? I have a '02 S and thinking about lowing it 2". Pretty sure I need new shocks, when I was driving back I went over this bouncy stretch of the highway (they need to fix it bad) and it kept bouncing for a while. Which by my knowledge of racing.... should not happen. So wondering how a Cooper looks lowered. Post pics if you have :3
#3
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My wife's Clubman will not be lowered as she says we already have a Kidney buster in the family, My 66 mustang with Koni adjustable shock and Shelby suspension, not a GT350, Notchback with a black Vinyl top stock wheels widened to 7" and stock hub caps stock engine that was balanced/blueprinted back in 66 have had since we got married nearly 50 years ago. 98,000 mile and still runs great about 300hp. Nice thing is I can work on it without killing my self. If I happen to get my own Mini, I might but probably not, to many speed bump and curbs to bottom out on and it wouldn't be use for competition, drive to old.
#6
Bet you shocks/struts are DEAD...
I changed my OEM ones out at about 40,000 miles and 4 years...
They still has SOME rebound left...but not like a new strut...
Tossed a set of koni FSD'S in....never looked back...
Ride is great, actually better than the day I took delivery, handling is likewise at least as good....
My tire wear is PERFECT...no edge wear from camber issues, like on many lowered cars...no choppy ride...2 inches in a MINI IS slammed...Some folks have huge tire issues, and CV joint issues...just know what you are getting into.... 1 inch or so is pretty safe...more...get out your $$$.
Lowering is mostly for looks..done RIGHT you can get a slight improvent in actual handling...but get the spring rate wrong...and ride suffers...
Gen1 mini's biggest suspension issue is lack of travel...lowing makes it worse...and a hard riding car is not always the best handling..... Anybody with gocart time can tell you that....you need some compliance to matain grip....and I bet your struts/shocks are pretty dead...
I changed my OEM ones out at about 40,000 miles and 4 years...
They still has SOME rebound left...but not like a new strut...
Tossed a set of koni FSD'S in....never looked back...
Ride is great, actually better than the day I took delivery, handling is likewise at least as good....
My tire wear is PERFECT...no edge wear from camber issues, like on many lowered cars...no choppy ride...2 inches in a MINI IS slammed...Some folks have huge tire issues, and CV joint issues...just know what you are getting into.... 1 inch or so is pretty safe...more...get out your $$$.
Lowering is mostly for looks..done RIGHT you can get a slight improvent in actual handling...but get the spring rate wrong...and ride suffers...
Gen1 mini's biggest suspension issue is lack of travel...lowing makes it worse...and a hard riding car is not always the best handling..... Anybody with gocart time can tell you that....you need some compliance to matain grip....and I bet your struts/shocks are pretty dead...
#7
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#8
Bet you shocks/struts are DEAD...
I changed my OEM ones out at about 40,000 miles and 4 years...
They still has SOME rebound left...but not like a new strut...
Tossed a set of koni FSD'S in....never looked back...
Ride is great, actually better than the day I took delivery, handling is likewise at least as good....
My tire wear is PERFECT...no edge wear from camber issues, like on many lowered cars...no choppy ride...2 inches in a MINI IS slammed...Some folks have huge tire issues, and CV joint issues...just know what you are getting into.... 1 inch or so is pretty safe...more...get out your $$$.
Lowering is mostly for looks..done RIGHT you can get a slight improvent in actual handling...but get the spring rate wrong...and ride suffers...
Gen1 mini's biggest suspension issue is lack of travel...lowing makes it worse...and a hard riding car is not always the best handling..... Anybody with gocart time can tell you that....you need some compliance to matain grip....and I bet your struts/shocks are pretty dead...
I changed my OEM ones out at about 40,000 miles and 4 years...
They still has SOME rebound left...but not like a new strut...
Tossed a set of koni FSD'S in....never looked back...
Ride is great, actually better than the day I took delivery, handling is likewise at least as good....
My tire wear is PERFECT...no edge wear from camber issues, like on many lowered cars...no choppy ride...2 inches in a MINI IS slammed...Some folks have huge tire issues, and CV joint issues...just know what you are getting into.... 1 inch or so is pretty safe...more...get out your $$$.
Lowering is mostly for looks..done RIGHT you can get a slight improvent in actual handling...but get the spring rate wrong...and ride suffers...
Gen1 mini's biggest suspension issue is lack of travel...lowing makes it worse...and a hard riding car is not always the best handling..... Anybody with gocart time can tell you that....you need some compliance to matain grip....and I bet your struts/shocks are pretty dead...
#10
If you plan to use FSD shocks do not lower your MINI, it will shorten the life of the FSD's.
I'm using a JCW suspension kit, it lowered my MINI about 1/2". There are times I miss that 1/2" of ground clearance, but I do like the handling improvement it gave me.
Lowering 2" will make living with your MINI in the real world tough. As has been said you are very likely to have drive shaft issues with such a drop.
I'm using a JCW suspension kit, it lowered my MINI about 1/2". There are times I miss that 1/2" of ground clearance, but I do like the handling improvement it gave me.
Lowering 2" will make living with your MINI in the real world tough. As has been said you are very likely to have drive shaft issues with such a drop.
#11
Go for a fairly conservative lowering spring and pair it some yellows. You'll be happy with the look and with the yellows on full soft the ride quality is no more harsh than stock.
#12
Thanks for the replies! So this is more like golds vs yellows for me. My mini is my DD car, no tracking plans, roads here are fair, it could have a lot of bumps in town. Hmm. If i go yellows i only like minimal drop to 1" or so, that doesn't seem a lot when comparing at the stocks height/gap or does it?
#14
Wow! an inch is a big difference. Andy what is your wheel specs on those? I asked because I may go 15's wheel x 7,7.5, or 8? and a wider tires. Okay here's what I want my mini to look like>>Something.. Suspension=Not too harsh,if possible the softest there is, minimal drop.. but on 15's the gap would be much more gap right? compare to 17's. Also would like my tire flushed or a bit poke that can pass safety. With that kind of setup do I need any of the aftermarket parts such rear control arms, adjustable front camber plates. anyway Im going to need that front plates due to mushrooming. Just so much options that I get lost in the way. Anybody please help! I need to decide soon as I'm having rapid rubber loss due to bad alignment. Thank you and Mahalo!
#15
Well the bigger you go with your wheels the shorter the sidewall height of your tires so regardless of whether you go 15, 16, or even 17 the gap should remain constant. That is not my car but I have the same springs. Here is how it compares to stock height and the stock 15x5.5 wheels on R50's. My wheels are 16x7 +35 for reference.
You don't really need adjustable control arms or camber plates if you're only going to drop it an inch. If you go the coilover route then its a different story.
You don't really need adjustable control arms or camber plates if you're only going to drop it an inch. If you go the coilover route then its a different story.
#16
My wife's Clubman will not be lowered as she says we already have a Kidney buster in the family, My 66 mustang with Koni adjustable shock and Shelby suspension, not a GT350, Notchback with a black Vinyl top stock wheels widened to 7" and stock hub caps stock engine that was balanced/blueprinted back in 66 have had since we got married nearly 50 years ago. 98,000 mile and still runs great about 300hp. Nice thing is I can work on it without killing my self. If I happen to get my own Mini, I might but probably not, to many speed bump and curbs to bottom out on and it wouldn't be use for competition, drive to old.
#17
Bet you shocks/struts are DEAD...
I changed my OEM ones out at about 40,000 miles and 4 years...
They still has SOME rebound left...but not like a new strut...
Tossed a set of koni FSD'S in....never looked back...
Ride is great, actually better than the day I took delivery, handling is likewise at least as good....
My tire wear is PERFECT...no edge wear from camber issues, like on many lowered cars...no choppy ride...2 inches in a MINI IS slammed...Some folks have huge tire issues, and CV joint issues...just know what you are getting into.... 1 inch or so is pretty safe...more...get out your $$$.
Lowering is mostly for looks..done RIGHT you can get a slight improvent in actual handling...but get the spring rate wrong...and ride suffers...
Gen1 mini's biggest suspension issue is lack of travel...lowing makes it worse...and a hard riding car is not always the best handling..... Anybody with gocart time can tell you that....you need some compliance to matain grip....and I bet your struts/shocks are pretty dead...
I changed my OEM ones out at about 40,000 miles and 4 years...
They still has SOME rebound left...but not like a new strut...
Tossed a set of koni FSD'S in....never looked back...
Ride is great, actually better than the day I took delivery, handling is likewise at least as good....
My tire wear is PERFECT...no edge wear from camber issues, like on many lowered cars...no choppy ride...2 inches in a MINI IS slammed...Some folks have huge tire issues, and CV joint issues...just know what you are getting into.... 1 inch or so is pretty safe...more...get out your $$$.
Lowering is mostly for looks..done RIGHT you can get a slight improvent in actual handling...but get the spring rate wrong...and ride suffers...
Gen1 mini's biggest suspension issue is lack of travel...lowing makes it worse...and a hard riding car is not always the best handling..... Anybody with gocart time can tell you that....you need some compliance to matain grip....and I bet your struts/shocks are pretty dead...
#18
I think I'm going around this height.. I really hate the amount of gap stock. It just looks so... wrong on a Mini. It kind of bothers me a lot. Also Sexy Black/Silver Really wanting to do what you have done but just mine being baby blue.
#19
Hey just wondering if anyone has lowered their mini?? I have a '02 S and thinking about lowing it 2". Pretty sure I need new shocks, when I was driving back I went over this bouncy stretch of the highway (they need to fix it bad) and it kept bouncing for a while. Which by my knowledge of racing.... should not happen. So wondering how a Cooper looks lowered. Post pics if you have :3
it's for sale... images in the adv.The car has NON runflats, but still, with this setup the ride is as expected, harsh over bumps.
http://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/de...0999928/photo/
#21
Newb here searching around for a suspension thread. The shocks I got on my R53 are worn and beat--esp the rears. I can feel the rear end bounce over stuff, which is especially fun going through bumpy corners, this lil fella is a handfull. I'll keep searching, but I'm seeing Konis and KYBs popping up. Any other suggestions?
Intended use: fun daily driver/commuter, so comfort is slightly higher importance than all-out corner carving shenanigans.
Intended use: fun daily driver/commuter, so comfort is slightly higher importance than all-out corner carving shenanigans.
#22
#23
Hey just wondering if anyone has lowered their mini?? I have a '02 S and thinking about lowing it 2". Pretty sure I need new shocks, when I was driving back I went over this bouncy stretch of the highway (they need to fix it bad) and it kept bouncing for a while. Which by my knowledge of racing.... should not happen. So wondering how a Cooper looks lowered. Post pics if you have :3
1). competitive autoX setup - check the classification rules first, so you don't accidentally get bumped into a wrong class with 1 wrong component. You will likely want adjustable coil-overs, camber plates, etc.
2). competitive track/DE/racing setup - (1), but stiffer, and a touch less front camber.
3). cosmetic lowering - just grab shorter springs from one of the online sources, and swap them out (very easy DIY, or pay someone).
4). goofing off with airbags - self explanatory.
I want with KWv3 coil-overs, among other mods, to accomplish #1. At the highest setting, the drop was ~2.5" front and back (see pics in my album).
It works really well - handling vastly improved, times dropped by ~1.2 seconds for 60 second course.
Downside - I am scraping the front air-dam on all driveways and roadway dips, as the bottom of the air-dam lip is at most 1.5" above the pavement.
For the winter, I had just swapped the suspension back to stock ;-)
a
#24
http://www.m7tuning.com/m7-strut-tow...-assembly.html
There is at least one other vendor (forgot who) who sells similar full circumference strut tower "defenders".
a
#25
Many have, but the desirability of the outcome depends entirely on what you are trying to accomplish:
1). competitive autoX setup - check the classification rules first, so you don't accidentally get bumped into a wrong class with 1 wrong component. You will likely want adjustable coil-overs, camber plates, etc.
2). competitive track/DE/racing setup - (1), but stiffer, and a touch less front camber.
3). cosmetic lowering - just grab shorter springs from one of the online sources, and swap them out (very easy DIY, or pay someone).
4). goofing off with airbags - self explanatory.
I want with KWv3 coil-overs, among other mods, to accomplish #1. At the highest setting, the drop was ~2.5" front and back (see pics in my album).
It works really well - handling vastly improved, times dropped by ~1.2 seconds for 60 second course.
Downside - I am scraping the front air-dam on all driveways and roadway dips, as the bottom of the air-dam lip is at most 1.5" above the pavement.
For the winter, I had just swapped the suspension back to stock ;-)
a
1). competitive autoX setup - check the classification rules first, so you don't accidentally get bumped into a wrong class with 1 wrong component. You will likely want adjustable coil-overs, camber plates, etc.
2). competitive track/DE/racing setup - (1), but stiffer, and a touch less front camber.
3). cosmetic lowering - just grab shorter springs from one of the online sources, and swap them out (very easy DIY, or pay someone).
4). goofing off with airbags - self explanatory.
I want with KWv3 coil-overs, among other mods, to accomplish #1. At the highest setting, the drop was ~2.5" front and back (see pics in my album).
It works really well - handling vastly improved, times dropped by ~1.2 seconds for 60 second course.
Downside - I am scraping the front air-dam on all driveways and roadway dips, as the bottom of the air-dam lip is at most 1.5" above the pavement.
For the winter, I had just swapped the suspension back to stock ;-)
a
As of right now I like these coilovers, The range is 40mm-70mm front and 30mm-65mm rear.