I attempted to put on my winter wheels on this weekend. But as I began removing my MINI branded locking lugs bolts the wheel key lock seems to have stripped/bent when I was on my third wheel lock.

The parts department had me contact the company directly for a replacement key: McGard is the manufacturer. The key replacement is $14 ($13 each for two), 7-10 shipping day included. The dealership supposedly has master keys to the all the MINI key locks, but by the time I schedule an appointment and pay for it, the key will be here.

So I noticed other posts that some simply do not use wheel locks because of similar issues. So wheel locks or not?

 

After my one time on the track needing new tires the shop I took it to ended up having to take it into the local dealer for them to use their master key to get them off as they became stuck(they tried for 3 hours to cut ONE off). The dealer says they refuse to sell them because they get stuck and the keys break. The shop guy ended up stopping at the BMW dealer and picking up BMW locks.

 

Unless you live in a sketchy area....
When was the last time you saw a car up on blocks with the rims stolen??
Wheel locks will not stop or slow down a thief...just like a door lock, they only keep an honest person honest!! Just as a door can be kicked in to break a lock, a locking lugnut can have a cheap socket hammered over it, jamming it on to remove it, or cut off, of sprayed with some liquid nitrogen then hammered off...none take more than 30 seconds....

 

I would go lockless

 

I am leaning towards going lockless. Not to mention how easy it was to order a new key. I also viewed countless of videos online to hammer a slightly smaller socket on over the locked lug and pry it off. And for $49 at Autozone an OEM/Wheel lock removal impact socket set.

 

Throw those locks in the recycle bin. They are more trouble than they are worth IMHO.

 

When used in accordance with the directions they should last as long as you own the car. That is, only tighten by hand. The torque specs for the 14mm lug is less than the 12mm lugs, something like 89 foot lbs which isn't much. If someone uses an air gun with those keys, forget it they will be trash rather quickly.

 

I had those McGuard locks on another car. I got tired of them very quickly, so I swapped them out for standard bolts. (Yes, bolts on that car.) That was 20 years ago, and nobody has tried to steal the wheels yet...

 

Your profile says you live in Charlottesville, VA.
Unless you found the one bad part of town to live in + park outdoors, why would you ever need the wheel locks?

They are a haste, they all eventually break, and MINI 4 X 100 wheels are not useful for any other popular cars.

Instead of buying a new lock socket, take your car to the nears chain tire store and they will remove them (they are used to this task). They probably wont even charge you, so tip the guy doing the work, and throw away they remaining wheel lock lugs.

a

 

I thought I would provide info on how I finally got my wheel bolt lock off.

First attempt, I ordered replacement keys from McGard which manufacturers the MINI wheel lock sets. Those replacements did not work as the key kept slipping off.

Second attempt, I scheduled an appointment at the dealership so they could get the lock off. McGard fedexed me three additional locks so that the dealership could use their impact wrench/gun to get the lock off with the following instructions.

Removal of overtightened Lock Bolts--Instructions from McGard:
1) Overtighten ALL lug bolts on the problem wheel to remove the pressure from the lock bolt. Do not overtighten to the point of stud or lug bolt thread damage.

2) Remove the lock with your key. When using hand tools such as a lug wrench, ratchet, etc. direct inward pressure on the key must be used. This will keep the key pattern firmly and squarely engaged into the lock pattern. Normally McGard does not recommend the use of an impact gun, but if the key is not attached to another object (some McGard keys are equipped with a plastic or steel cable) an impact gun does work best for removing overtightened locks. If using an impact gun, the lock may not come free immediately. Continue using the impact gun as the repeated ratchet motion will slowly loosen the lock.

If the lock does not free after a few minutes, try to remove the lock using a ratchet or breaker bar, (making sure to keep direct inward pressure).

3) If the lock does not free itself, loosen one lug bolt (4 hole wheels) or two lug bolts (5 hole wheels) opposite the lock and repeat step 2.

4) Upon removal of lock, remove all lug bolts and remount the wheel.

Unfortunately, that did not work and the dealer broke an impact socket trying to get the lock off and damaged the wheel. I had to come back once they ordered new wheel.

Third attempt, McGard then recommends a drill out kit for the lock. The three cobalt drills to use are 1/4 inch, then 3/8 inch, then 7/16 inch for the CM/PM 14 mm bolt (not 1/2 as image shows).
See image:

1) Place sleeve #1 over the lock.
> Ideal speed is 200 RPM max (over the phone they recommended 500-600 RPM).
> Start drilling with the 1/4 inch drill into the lock (20 mm deep)

2) Repeat step 1 with sleeve #2 and 3/8 inch drill.

3) Repeat step 1 with sleeve #3 and 7/16 inch drill (image shows 1/2 inch which is too big)
> After the third drill, the bolt head should fall off. If not, the drill was a little off center. A tap on the bolt head should break it free.


Unfortunately, the lock got damaged in the process so they were not able to drill out (see photo). As a result, the dealer heated the lock up and broke it free. Whew! Very grateful to the dealership for getting the lock off!

So now here is my dilemma. When I asked the dealer what is the torque they use on the CM they told me they torque ALL their wheels to 80 ft lbs. I questioned that and even showed them a copy of the page from the CM/PM manual which states the CM/PM manual says 103.3 ft lbs/140 Nm and the MINI wheel locks instruction booklet also states the same 103.3 ft lbs/140 Nm for the CM M14s. (For M12 bolts it states 88.5 ft lbs/120 Nm for M12 bolts--which I assume is non CM/PM).

 

The 80 or so ft lbs is for the 12mm, which doesn't feel like much either when using a bar as I do....

The 14mm lugs such as the ones you have require more as you found in the OM. Remember its the friction of all bolts together holding the wheel onto the hub, but 80lbs for the 14mm isn't enough.

Awesome write up - Thanks!

Who did your wheels before ?

 

Just the general rule of thumb.

12 x 1.25 mm 70 - 80ft lbs

14 x 1.25 mm 85 - 90ft lbs


Remember some of the stuff from manufacturers manuals are like the tire air pressure guide labels on our door jams...

 

This is helpful. I change my own wheels from 19s performance tires for summer to 17s all-season for winter using a torque wrench to 103. That said, I was in for routine service a month ago where they also performed a state inspection where they are mandated to "NOTE: A minimum of two wheels must be removed from each vehicle at the time of inspection." I am not sure what the dealer torqued them to. That said, 80 seems a little light. I am seeing more posts on 90.

 

As for the torque on the CM. My local dealer indicated they torque ALL MINIs to 80 ft lbs--even after I showed them the OM indicating 103.3 ft lbs/140 Nm. Still in doubt, I called a larger market MINI dealership and they spoke to their shop foreman and comfirmed 103.3 ft lbs (or they indicated appx 105) /140 Nm for the CM M14s.

 

Having wrestled the MINI away from my better half this afternoon I decided to do an experiment. I believe my M14 lugbolts to still have the factory original torque on them. I have a click type 1/2" torque wrench that I had my gauge lab at work validate as being accurate(enough). I set it to 98 foot pounds and tried it on several lug bolts(totally cold)on the passenger side. It immediately clicked on every one. I set it 102 ft-lbs and the lug bolts rotated about 5 degrees before the wrench clicked out. This leads me to believe that the 103 ft-lb is the correct torque for the M14 thread, 5-bolt wheels. That 80 ft-lb deal must be for the 4-bolt wheels

 

Lug bolt torque question sent to MINI.Assistance@askMINIUSA.COM:

QUESTION:
My owners manual for the 2014 JCW Countryman ALL4 does NOT contain the wheel tightening torque specs. I found online a 2012 MINI OM version that states using 103.3 ft lbs/ 140 Nm. On a recent dealer visit they used only 80 ft lbs for ALL MINIs including mine. I spoke to another dealership service foreman and he said use 103.3 (appx 105) ft lbs. I feel my wheels might not be tightened to specs and I am going on a long cross country road trip. Question: WHAT IS THE CORRECT TORQUE SPECS TO USE FOR A 2014 COUNTRYMAN ALL4 JCW for the 14 mm lugs bolts?

RESPONSE:

From: <MINI.Assistance@askMINIUSA.COM>
Date: November 5, 2014 at 6:00:26 PM EST

Thanks for your patience while I researched your inquiry. Here is the info you requested:

The tightening specification for your 2014 MINI John Cooper Works Countryman ALL 4 is 140 Newton Meters, or 103 Lbs/Ft when converted. I hope you find this information helpful.

MINI Motoring Relations is available Monday through Friday from 9:00 a.m. to 9:00 p.m., ET. You can reach us at 1.866.ASK.MINI (275-6464).

Should you have any other questions, please let us know. We’re always here to help.

LET'S MOTOR.
MINI Motoring Relations Representative

 

I had the same issue last week. Dealer ordered another wheel lock key for me. I'm hoping it does the trick and I can toss the locks away. If it doesn't I will get dealer to remove them as they installed the current winter tires I bought from them. Torque issues would be on them.

 

...Too many times, I have tried to remove lug nuts from cars serviced by "un-named service centers" and found that the lug nuts were torqued to the point having to get my 3 foot long breaker bar to get them loose and/or having to run down to the local parts store to buy replacement nuts because the OEM nuts have been ruined from the over torqued.

This act of over torquing can also pull the brake rotor from the wheel hub and cause undulations felt when braking.

...and of course it can be double the trouble when they do it to a wheel lock....

Motor on!

 

Can I ask you what the part number or order information was. Julian date etc? I cant find this part number for the life of me and my ex lost my wheel lock key and the dealership went out of business and doesn't have the info anymore.