I decided to start changing my oil every 5k miles. Today was the first time that I have ever changes my oil myself. Working on cars is new to me. Everything went well until I checked they oil level. I put in 4.4 quarts but when I checked it it looked high. The only thing I could think of was to drain some out. I did not take the plug all they way out but did loosen it.

My question is what do I do about the new crush washer that came with the new filter? Is it ruined now? If so does anyone have any recommendations on how I can make things right and not waste all the new oil that I just put in? Is there another washer I can buy that would work?

I also bought a Fumoto plug but decided against using it. It seemed like it might sit a little low and might catch one something? I have the blue fiber like washer that came with it. Can I use that if needed?

Thanks!!

 

Did you start the car before draining the extra oil? The oil filter and housing will hold a little oil. I have found with every oil change on every vehicle I have changed oil in, it always looks high before I start the vehicle to circulate the oil, if the recommended amount is put in the motor what appears high on the stick goes somewhere. Start and circulate then check again, wait a few minutes for the oil to drain back into the pan before checking.

 

ALWAYS check the oil level when the engine is warm.

 

90% probability you are OK on the washer ... tighten it, and watch for leaks.

lots of people reuse then w/out even knowing they should be replaced.

I'm guessing GEN2 car in which case a Fumoto is a BAD idea . . . real bad idea.

Great item for a GEN1 where it faces back and does not protrude lower than the oil pan, but on a GEN2 it sticks straight down which is a very bad idea.

You would be OK with the Fumoto fibre washer or the dealer can sell you a 'proper' sized one sep'ly from the filter kit.

Next time put in 4 qts and then run and check. Worst case is you end up .4 qt low and that's easy to fix . . . were you on ramps? That could be where the oil was trapped as the pan was not level. I can get my catch pan under my GEN2 w/out picking it up - level pan drains better in this case as the hole appears to be in the center bottom where as on a GEN1 it is at the back of the pan so lifting helps the drainage.

 

Make that 99.9% of the time you'll be fine, so don't worry about it.

Why did you pick 5K miles? Why not 3500, or 4200? (just kidding, but oil anaylsis has shown on my car that 7500 or even 8500 miles would be fine. The oil is fine. Viscosity is good, contaminants are within acceptable range, flash point is low, TBN shows that there is still life in the additive package. But hey, it's your money...

As for what to do with too much oil.

First, I've found that I have to let it drain a long time to get all the oil that's going to drain out. You aren't going to get it all, but...

You can get 1/4" PVC tubing and syphon out oil through the dipstick, you gould buy a MityVac tool and suction it out, or invest in a TopSide oil changer.

 

Before you do anything else, I suggest you look at the posts in 'reading the 2011+ oil dipstick. This thread will show the reasons that you cannot get a good reading with the usual methods. This thread also gives you ways to insure you get a good reading.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-dipstick.html

2011 MC, PW/B

 

Thanks all or the help. I know now what I wish I knew then. I did in fact check it before starting the engine. I should have waited. After I took it out for a drive I checked it again and things were perfect. I am sure they would have been good too even if I would not have drained a little from the bottom. I am amazed at the help this site and its members offer. Originally I put the front on jack stands. After I was working on it I noticed the same thing, that I did not have to jack the car up at all. It is easy accessible from the front passenger side. No problem.

So you all think I am ok leaving the plug as is and just watching it?

I also have a newer model Fumato that has a lip on it for tubing. I also have the tubing for it if any one is interested in purchasing?
http://www.qwikvalve.com/fumoto-f108s-valve.html

 

if you have not noticed a drip yet I'm sure you'll be fine until the next change. as mentioned, some folks use the same seal over and over as not all filters come with a replacement seal in the box. I just went to the KIA dealer to get a filter and asked for a seal too and they looked at me like I was nuts. KIA uses one, but they didn't even have a part number the tech just had a bowl of them at the oil change rack! So they gave me a small handful. No one who'd bought a filter had ever asked b4 . .

Bummer on the Fumoto - the 108 won't fit a GEN1, that uses the F-106.

Did you buy from QwikValve directly? Maybe they'll take it back but you'll loose half your cost just in postage by the time you're done . . .

 

So I checked everything and it looks as if there are no leaks but after checking the dip stick it still looks like it is still a little high. It is just above the top bulb in the stock dipstick. If I put the dipstick in just up to the o ring and check it its in the middle. Is this too much it how much is too much.

Thanks!

 

MiniLSE,

The most bulletproof method to get a good reading on a slighlty overfilled 2011+ MINI is as follows:
1. Warm the engine to its full operating temperature. This insures the oil is thin enough to flow out of the dipstick tube in a reasonable time.
2. Stop the engine, pull out the dipstick, wipe it off and set it aside.
3. Cover the dipstick tube to prevent anything from droping into it. I use a small piece of tin foil since it can resist the heat.
4. Wait for at least two hours. That seems like a long time to wait but I never got a bad reading after waiting this long.
5. Push the dipstick in until the bottom of the plastic handle contacts the end of the dipstick tube. The bottom of the handle is almost exactly 1" from the part of the handle that contacts the tube when the dipstick is fully inserted.
6. Pull out the handle, read the level. The actual level will be 1" above the level shown. For oil only a little overfilled you can see exactly how much is overfilled.

If your oil is only a little above the upper bulge, I wouldn't worry about it. If you pick a time when you don't plan on using the car for a few hours and do this right after stopping the engine, it only takes a couple minutes of your time. I leave the hood up until I'm finished when I use this method to remind me the dipstick is out.

Morris, 2011 MC, PW/B

 

Thanks for all you help but I had to drain some out anyway. Turns out that I was leaking after I loosened the drain plug the first time. What a mess. Lol! Bought a replacement drain plug ring and now it seems fine.

 

Make sure the car is warmed up and take the plug out fully next time, otherwise you won't get the WHOLE oil out. I did that to my MINI and my buddy's. Good luck next time!

 

I believe that it takes responsible drivers to keep a car working properly. You need to learn what your car needs and how it asks you for help. I think some people get in trouble with the Mini because the Mini is not an average car.

The oil level in your Mini's motor should be at the correct level at all times if you want to avoid problems.

Using the dipstick on a R56 is difficult but if the motor has more or less oil in than spec the reading is more likely to be false if not done with care. The 2012 dipstick has a textured measurement zone that is very difficult to see oil on because the plastic is red and the shape is a cylinder. A flat surface is much better for seeing oil adhesion with surface tension. The dipstick tip shape and color make it difficult see the (clean) oil but the shape of the tip adds another layer of confusion because the reading can be taken from 360 degrees. In my tests I have found that the oil level reads differently from different tangent points (0, 90, 180 degrees).

Some Mini owners drill holes, and or grind down the measurement zone to improve the oil reading visibility. I have not done that but some people think it helps. You can even purchase an aftermarket dipstick for your R56 Mini Cooper. I have never thought about upgrading a dipstick on any other car but a Mini is not an average car. Some people really like the modified or replacement dipsticks better than the factory spec version. Who would a thought.... ?

Some but not all of the many different Mini original dipsticks:http://www.outmotoring.com/mini-coop..._dipstick.html
Aftermarket: http://www.cravenspeed.com/mini-dipstick/

The oil level on the factory dipstick should fall in to the recessed area between the ball on the top of the dipstick tip and the top of the cone. For many it is very difficult to see the oil on the stick and clean oil is a real challenge. A magnifying glass or using reading glasses in good sun light can help you see the oil on the stick. You can place the stick on a lint free towel and transfer the oil to it. This may help you see the oil but you must make sure that you are getting a good reading first. Most of the time the Mini dipstick will read high (as much as a full quart) if care is not taken when using the dipstick. When I say it reads high I am saying the motor has less oil than the stick leads you to believe. Take a look at the illustrations below to see why the stick can trick you.




More information on Crankcase breather issus:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-and-more.html

Most people don't expect a new car to use much oil but some R56 Minis do use up to a quart of oil per 1500 miles. https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-r56s-has.htmlMany Mini R56s don't use much oil at all. You need to know your oil level ether way."The Dipstick can TRICK you into thinking your car is overfilled when it is low on oil." This is a major problem (sorry but this is not the average consumer's fault). The MINI manual tells you to check your oil in a way that is very likely to trick you into thinking you have more oil in the motor than it does.



Mini does not tell you how to interpret the reading on the dipstick when you see oil mist on the recessed part of the tip of the dipstick with WET oil on the top mark and WET oil on the cone at the bottom. The reading may trick you into thinking that you are good to go when you are just about to damage your motor. Seeing oil on the top of the stick (ball) is not an indicator that the oil is at that level.


What is wrong with overfilling?
Increased oil pressure (from overfilling) can cause the PCV to release the extra oil into the intake or OCC. Oil in the intake can cause problems to the cat and alter the air fuel mixture and create increased carbon build up. When the crankcase is overfilled the oil gets wiped up into a foam from the crank and the pump is not able to pump foam. The result is your motor will not get oil and the pump could fail. Too much oil is just as bad as not enough and in some cases too much oil is worse. I interviewed three Mini dealers in my area and found that two did not know how much oil to put in the R56 v.s. the R53. Overfilling oil at the dealer has been reported by many Mini drivers. You, as the owner of a Mini, need to take responsibility for the work done on your car and the oil level.

If your motor is ever overfilled it is very difficult to check the level. It is a fine line between full and over full. What you are looking for ideally is a very small gap in the saturation (about 1 mm of some texture showing) between the upper ball and the recessed cylinder (if the tube still has some oil in it) or a clean upper ball (if the level is set perfect and the tube is clean). As soon as the upper ball is covered (due to the high level of oil in the motor) your only resort is to put the dipstick in a part way to a measured amount (use a socket or some kind of tool), then see if you can calibrate the difference in displacement. If that does not work for you, you can drain out all the oil and carefully measure the oil. This will force an oil change. If that is not desirable you can pump some oil out the dipstick tube or let some oil out of the pan. Most likely you don't have a topside oil pump to pump the oil out of the dipstick tube. If you remove the drain plug you should replace the crush washer. That can be a challenge if you are just letting out a small amount of oil.

The oil light?
Some people believed that a dash light comes on when the motor is one quart low. Some BMWs have an oil level light and no dipstick but the R56 Mini does not have an oil level light. The R56 oil light is a an oil pressure indicator. It is possible to have oil pressure with very low oil. I have seen posts from people that have driven with 3 quarts low and not seen the light. If you ever see the the oil light come on you have most likely done some damage to your motor. You need to use the dipstick to check your oil level in a Mini (to date).


The oil is used to reduce friction that creates heat in the motor. If you drive with low oil or the pump stops working the motor will get very hot in a short time and parts of the motor will melt or burn. This is what happens if your oil pump stops picking up oil due to too much or too little oil (Yes that is from a Mini):


Good practices for checking the oil level in a Mini R56
Before you check your oil in a R56 you must make sure your Mini is on level ground. Most streets are not level to allow for water to runoff to the curb. The dipstick in a R56 Mini is not located in the center of the motor so any degree of off level ground will alter the oil reading.



Real measurements shown below done by changing the car from left of level to right of level using a jack. The first picture shows a clean dry stick. You can see how difficult it is to see the clean oil on the stick tip in the two lower pictures. Note the oil on the upper ball from tube transfer in both of the lower pictures.


It is helpful to use a bubble level when checking or adding oil. If you don't have a level road or driveway move the car or use a jack to level the car.



TESTING DIFFERENT OIL CHECKING METHODS

I am sharing the oil checking results as tested on a new 2012 Mini Copper S from dealer stock (not my car). This is a new car with nearly no miles on it. We (the Dealer SA, Dealer Salesman and myself) tested the oil level cold and warm. Each test documents the first three checks (check level, clean stick and recheck....) The 4th and 5th checks were not usable because oil had attached itself to the inside of the tube.

Warm oil check method as outlined in the Mini documentation (I think this is a bad method):
Orange = saturated oil on the stick, Red or orange dots = light oil with stick texture showing, Solid red = no oil.

1) Run car up to normal temperature. (note the lack of any temp gauge for oil or coolant)
2) Shut of the motor and open the hood.
3) Wait 5 min.
4) Pull out the dipstick, and then wipe the oil off the dopstick.
5) Put the stick back in without rotating the stick.
6) Wait 10 sec.
7) Then pull the stick out (check 1). look at the tip that is full of oil including the top ball (with the original oil set from the factory).
8) Clean it and insert the dipstick into the tube and remove after 10 sec.
9) Inspect the oil on the stick. (check 2) Look at the false negative and at the same time a false overfill reading.
10) Clean it and insert the dipstick into the tube and remove after 10 sec.
11) Inspect the oil on the stick. (check 3) Look at the false overfill reading.




Cold oil check method (not outlined in any Mini documentation) (I think this a good method):
Orange = saturated oil on the stick, Red or orange dots = light oil with stick texture showing, Solid red = no oil.
(same car from dealer stock on the same day as shown in the warm method test)

1) Remove the dipstick and clean it. Do not put the dipstick back in the tube.
2) Let the car sit so the oil can drain out of the tube. (we waited 20 min on this test at the dealership) It is best to wait 2 hours or more but 5 min will get you close.
3) Insert the dipstick into the tube and remove after 10 sec.
4) Inspect the oil on the stick. (check 1)
5) Clean it and insert the dipstick into the tube and remove after 10 sec.
6) Inspect the oil on the stick. (check 2)
7) Clean it and insert the dipstick into the tube and remove after 10 sec.
8) Inspect the oil on the stick. (check 3)


Notice that in each set of tests the reading is slightly different. In some cases the reading shows a false over fill condition. The only repeatable way to check the oil (if the dipstick is used to check) is to check the oil cold as outlined in the cold method. Unfortunately only the first check will provide usable results. Any attempts after the first check are tainted from oil transfer from the tube.


The volume of oil in a R56 will alter by about .2 quarts between ambient oil temperature and normal operating temperature due to thermal expansion. Keep in mind that when the oil is warm from the motor running some the oil is sticking to the inside of the crankcase and the oil filter is fully charged so not all of the oil in the motor is in the pan. The stick reading will not track an exact .2 higher when the motor has recently been running compared to stick reading done say, in the morning after the Mini has been sitting for 10 hours. Check out this post:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post3646606

Mini does not recommend the cold check method and stated the stick is not calibrated for cold oil checking. If you look at the video link below you will see that the oil level looks too high in the how to video from Mini. If you use the method in the video your oil will appear higher than it is in realty because the oil is transferring to the dipstick from the tube. In the video they don't tell you what low oil looks like on the stick. I found that the stick can look like the motor is .5 quarts low when it is a full quart low when checking oil per the video. I tested the level when adding oil during an oil change and I saw that with two quarts of oil in the crankcase the stick can show oil on the top by removing the stick and re inserting it a few times without waiting for the oil to drain out of the tube. I don't think you should just add oil casually like they say. Take a look at the video now that you know more about what is going on in the dipstick tube. Some of the advice is good like making sure you check your oil but the way they show you how to do it (re inserting the sick just after removing it) is not good.

Mini Video that shows you how to get misleading results when checking oil:



I think it is best to use the steps outlined in the cold method even if the oil is warm from driving. I use the cold method even with warm oil at gas stations or when I stop after driving long distances. When you are filling the motor with oil (oil change time) you must use the cold method for the first 4 quarts. After filling the first 4 quarts of oil you need to start the motor (for a short time like 20 seconds) to charge the filter. Then wait for the oil to run down out of the tube before adding the final oil to fill the crankcase. Never overfill.



The cold oil checking method (allowing the oil to drain from the dipstick tube) works.
I found that oil checking using the cold method has good accuracy (about .1 quart accuracy). I used the cold oil checking method to measured the amount of oil on the dipstick after filling the motor with the proper amount of oil during an oil change. I also checked the oil level on the stick after adding each quart to see the stick reading at the different points. I measured the amount of oil removed from the motor during an oil change and I found a good match between the stick reading prior to the oil removal and the amount of oil removed from the motor. Note the oil in the bucket picture below has close to 4.5 quarts. The car was .08 overfilled after I added .75 quarts of oil (that is not too bad). During the breaking in period Our Mini used .72 quarts of oil. I added oil but then found it difficult to see the reading on the stick using the method outlined in the Mini manual so I drained the oil out and measured it. It was a good time to do an early oil change and get out all the early ring setting metal gunk and assembly lube.



"Topping off"
I find that adding "topping off" the proper amount oil is the most difficult thing to calculate on a Mini. Using the cold method (waiting 15-20 min for the oil to drain out of the tube) is the best way to check as you add but be prepared to spend some time when topping off. When topping off your oil you want to add small amounts and use the dipstick for feed back. With every drop you put in the crankcase the level is getting closer to full. It gets more difficult to check as you approach the maximum mark when the upper mark is covered in oil from the tube (and showing a misreading). You must wait long periods of time to allow the tube to drain clean before checking and then adding additional oil. Learning how to out smart your car's dipstick is very important if you want your Mini to continue to function.

Checking oil when it is overfilled using a spacer

An easy way:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...42-post15.html

You can use a spacer to shorten the penetration of the dipstick so you can calculate how much oil to remove. It is helpful if the spacer is equal to 1/2 quart. Just for fun (and you know you have to have fun with a MINI) I used a foam cylinder with a hole in it that was made for music drum sticks http://www.americanmusical.com/ItemI...CYM%20OSSP.jpg. You can keep the foam spacers in a small zip lock bag and use them if the Mini dealer overfills your oil and you want to know how much. Place the spacer on the dipstick and seat it at the handle end. Then check your oil level using the cold method. Add the same distance as the spacer thickness to your measured results to find the real level. (See pictures below) If you need to remove oil you can get a pump and pull it out the dipstick but be very careful. Do not drive or run the motor with the spacer on the stick.


A look inside (older R56 dipstick shown)
This picture shows the chain guides (all the parts) with the dipstick running through it (right side view). I hope this help you understand the construction better and understanding may help you see why checking the oil level is tricky. I think oil gets in the dipstick tube when the motor is running.


One more oil checking method https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-dipstick.html
This method works and is a good workout for folks that have some time.





Given that the Mini is a cute car it tends to attract many owners that are not going to think about the motor oil level. The oil light is not the way to check the oil level. Minis do not have an oil pressure or oil temp gauge so the typical driver has no feedback other than to try to check the oil with the difficult to use dipstick during fuel (petrol) filings. I note that when the Cooper needs fuel the car flashes a warning triangle at the driver and the fuel level lights turn RED and the car bonks at you as if you asked a computer to delete all the files on its hard drive. Checking the oil level is more difficult than it should be.

'The dash light said to add oil'.


Oil change tips:
An oil change is not hard to do but done properly it will take a long time on a R56S.
To drain the oil out of the motor the oil needs to be warm. To change the filter the coolant and turbo needs to be cold. I drain my oil when the oil is warm (let the car sit for 15 min after a 15 min or so drive) and remove the filter after I rotate the wheels (clean them at the same time) from back to front and adjust the tire pressure. Then the motor is cool and I don't burn my hands and all the oil drains out of the filter. It takes about an hour.

Make sure that you have everything that is required for the job before you start. Nothing is more frustrating than emptying your oil, only to find out that you don’t have a replacement filter or enough oil. You will need an oil filter kit, a 10 mm socket, a 27 mm socket, a new drain plug crush washer, an Allen key set with an 8 mm, a roll of paper towels, a very large oil pan or bucket, and 5 quarts of approved synthetic oil. Make sure you get A 27 mm 6 point socket for removing the oil filter housing.

If you want to use a floor jack on your R56 Mini and lift it from the front factory location you can fill the front stock jack point with a block of wood. I used 3/4 plywood. The filler block is small and you can put it in your tool kit in the trunk. Easy! The front jack point will lift both the front and rear wheels on one side of the car. Without the wood block the mount point will crush and fail at some point.





If you don't use the block this can happen---->
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...08-post17.html

So how does your computer know when to change the oil??? ---->
Neglecting oil changes can lead to the turbocharger oil supply becoming restricted on S models, causing oil starvation and resulting in the seizing of the turbocharger assembly. I like to change my oil more often than 10,000 miles to avoid problems. Mini adjusted the interval from 15,000 miles to 10,000 miles in 2012. 4,500 - 5,000 miles is a good interval for oil changes but I try to do them every 4,000. Some Mini drivers believe 7000 - 7500 is a good oil change interval. With the computer (DME) set to 10,000 miles between changes I find the scheduled maintenance self adjusts to about 7000 miles.

A link to some talk about oil change interval:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...000-miles.html

"Maintenance requirements for the engine oil are calculated in the DME (maintenance requirements = the remaining distance and latest date for the engine oil change). The DME calculation of the forecasted mileage interval is based upon an actual fuel consumption variable. The CBS oil service can also come due in 24 months, after the last CBS reset, if the total fuel consumption value has not been reached. However, it is recommended in the US market to change the engine oil at least once a year.
The displayed mileage until due is only a forecast, and will decrease at a quicker rate once the remaining percentage drops below 50%."

The following table lists the average values currently used in the DME algorithm.
Model............ Engine ..........Transmission...........Average fuel consumption
R56 Cooper N12B16O0 .......Manual ...................32 mpg
R56 Cooper N12B16O0 ........Automatic .............. 26.5 mpg
R56 Cooper S N14B16O0 ......Manual ...................26 mpg
R56 Cooper S N14B16O0 ......Automatic ...............24 mpg

The oil service light reset procedure
If you reset the computer after a DIY oil change and you have Mini Maintenance /Extended Maintenance the dealer may not change your oil. It is best not to reset the computer until your Maintenance program has ended.

To reset the oil service light first get in the car and do not press the brake or clutch pedal. Now insert the key and press the start button to turn the car on, but do not start the car. Look at the tachometer and wait until the oil change service light goes out. Now press and hold both buttons on the tachometer.
The car will perform a dash light check. Keep holding the buttons. The car will then show the VIN/menu on the tachometer. Continue to hold the buttons until the time appears on the tachometer. Now release only the right hand button for approx. 1 second and press it again while still holding the left hand button. After another second or two, the display will show the front brake symbol. You are now in the service menu.
Use the BC button (on the turn signal stalk) to scroll through the various service symbols until you get to the oil service symbol. To reset the service light, press and hold the BC button until RESET appears. Now press and hold the button again until it resets.

Getting all the old oil out
One more interesting challenge when changing oil on a Mini R56 is getting all the oil out. The pan plug is higher than the lowest point in the pan. Some people use a topside system that pumps the oil out the dipstick tube. Take a look at the picture below and you will see the plug boss that is taller than the lower points in the pan and the curved dipstick. I don't understand why any engineer would design an oil pan like that. As far as topside draining goes, you could pull the hose out too soon or not insert it far enough and miss some oil so be careful.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...l-changer.html



The oil drain plug is easy to get to but make sure you don't mistake it for the transmission plug. The crush washer is a special design so make sure you have a replacement before removing the drain plug.



If you put your head under any car USE JACK STANDS. Find a good place to place one or 2. Now that your looking under your N18 Mini check for oil that can wick up through the wiring harness from a sensor in the oil pan. If you find oil on the harness take your Mini to the dealer to get it fixed before the oil gets to the DME and damages the computer. See links and picture:

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-check-it.html
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post3647955



Mini dealers tend to OVERFILL the oil when doing regular schedule maintenance oil changes. If you let a Mini dealer do an oil change for you tell them up front not to over fill the oil (say please). Then inspect the level using the proper method (don't get tricked) when you pick up the Mini. Make them fix any problems and help them learn not to over fill.

Filter http://www.outmotoring.com/mini-coop...il_filter.html
Getting to the filter is a bit tricky. Make sure you don't do any damage to the coolant hoses or bottle. I remove the coolant bottle mounting screw that attaches it to the upper brace using a socket first. To move the bottle carefully pull it up and move the bottle to disengage the tabs that lock it in place. I use a strap to hold the bottle off to the inside of the engine bay so it does not fall on my hands when I and removing the filter. I don't change the oil filter when the coolant is still under pressure but what ever you do don't remove the coolant cap when the pump is still cooling the turbo. I wait for the motor and turbo to cool before changing the filter. (Rotate the tires as you wait)

Use A 27mm 6 point socket for removing the oil filter housing not a 12 point.


One more tip:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pz7fK...ature=youtu.be
I carefully remove the oil filter cover per the standard instructions. One time I pulled on the old oil filter just like in the instruction video. The video points out that the filter sticks to the oil filter cover. As I was separating the filter from the oil filter cover the oil filter cover exploded and all the tabs, springs and other parts flew out like one of those party poppers that people use on new year's eve. (See pictures below) Now I keep an extra filter cover on hand just in case it happens again.

If the filter sticks try cutting the filter's spool flange and then cutting the filter's plastic toilet paper tube and then the bridge in the center of the tube.

Click this link if you damaged the cap removing or installing it:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ent-fubar.html

It’s a good idea to clean out the inside of the oil filter cover and housing before installing the new oil filter cartridge. This will be a bit difficult due to the location of the housing, but a few wadded paper towels should do the trick. Below the threads on the filter cover (it looks like a cap), you will see the old o-ring in place. This should be facing down when you install the filter cover back on the motor at the housing. Remove the o-ring and clean the cover (both inside and out) thoroughly. Replace the O-ring with a new one at each oil change and smear some oil on it to help make a better seal. Before installing the oil filter spool look to see if the plastic in the center has flash from the molding processes. Remove any flash to avoid the filter from sticking when removing the filter on your next oil change. Take the new filter spool and place it in the cap and press it down into place.

Take the cover with the filter and screw it back on to the motor by hand. Take care to make sure the threads are lined up and it seats correctly. Then use the socket to set it but do not over tighten it!!

If you need or want an extra oil filter cover:
BMW part number 11427557011. I did some digging and found that part 11427557011 online for prices near $25-$30 (probably need to add shipping).
Part number molded on the part PA66GF30I and 679 041364 0 PURFLUX http://www.purflux.com/en/products/oil-filters.html





Ball park cost of an oil change done at home:

Oil filters $12+
Oil $40+
My time $?
Job satisfaction Priceless.

Some chat about the cost of oil changes done buy shops:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...il-change.html

It is nearly impossible to get Mini to tell you how much oil to put in the car. I even called Mini USA and they could not/ would not tell me. After hunting all over the place I found MINI's internal technical service document that lists oil capacity by motor.

N12 (2007+ MINI Cooper) and N16 (latest motor) – 4.20 liters / 4.4381 quarts
N14 (2007+ MINI Cooper S) and N18 (latest motor) – 4.20 liters / 4.4381 quarts

Note that all Minis do not hold the same amount of oil so be careful when asking or reading answers on message boards.

What Oil shoud I use?!!!!!!

Mini branded oil is the same as BMW branded oil. I am not sure what makes this oil special over other long life synthetic oils but BMW/Mini recommends using it. Other oils are listed too. "Using non-approved fluids or sealers can lead to premature failure and will not be
covered under Warranty."<--Mini quote.

When shopping for LL-01 oil pay attention to the details on the bottle. Mobil 1 has a non European Car Formula and a European Car Formula LL-01. It is a bit confusing when brands like Valvoline have 3 versions of the same product.

Long-life rating LL-01 Approved Synthetic Oils for the US Market:

- Castrol Syntec European Formula SAE 0W-30
- Mobil 1 SAE 0W-40 (European Car Formula)
- Pennzoil Platinum European Formula Ultra SAE 5W-30
- Valvoline SynPower SAE 5W-30""

BMW oil sheet. Take a look: http://www.opieoils.co.uk/pdfs/BMW-O...s-and-Recs.pdf

Approved Synthetic Oils for the US Market
http://www.bimmerfile.com/wp-content...hetic-oils.pdf

Here is a list of other LL-01 rated oils. (many are not in the US market)

Tradename-------------Viscosity----------Manufacturer/Supplier

ADDINOL Super power MV 0537 SAE 5W-30 Addinol Lube Oil GmbH
Agip Formula LL B 01 SAE 0W-30 ENI S.p.A.Refining and Marketing Division
Agip Sint 2000 Evolution SAE 5W-40 ENI S.p.A.Refining and Marketing Division
Agip TECSINT SL SAE 5W-40 ENI S.p.A.Refining and Marketing Division
Aral SuperTronic SAE 5W-30 Aral
AXCL S-Class Motor Oil SAE 0W-30 AXCL Gulf FZE
Visco 7000 SAE 0W-40 BP Oil International
BP Visco 7000 Special SAE 0W-30 BP Oil International
BP Visco 7000 SAE 0W-40 BP Oil International
SBS 5.0 "Longlife-01" BMW AG - TIS 26.12.2004 21:36Formula SLX LL01 SAE 0W-30 Castrol Limited
Castrol Formula SLX Turbo Diesel SAE 0W-30 Castrol Limited
Castrol Formula RS Power and Protection SAE 0W-40 Castrol Limited
Castrol Syntec SAE 0W-30 Castrol Limited
Castrol Super Racing 0W-40 SAE 0W-40 Castrol Limited
Castrol TXT Softec LL01 SAE 5W-30 Castrol Limited
Cepsa Star Mega Synthetic SAE 0W-30 Cepsa Lubricantes S.A.
Elf Excellium LDX SAE 0W-30 Total
Formula Ultra AB SAE 5W-30 Shell International Petroleum Company
Gulf Formula TLX SAE 0W-30 Total
Havoline Synthetic BM SAE 0W-30 Texaco
Igol Process Compact P SAE 5W-30 Igol France S.A.
Jet Top Level SAE 0W-40 ConocoPhillips GmbH
Labo RC SAE 0W-30 Fuchs Labo S.A.
Liqui Moly Longlife High Tech SAE 5W-30 Liqui Moly
megol Motorenöl New Generation SAE 5W-30 Meguin GmbH
Mobil 1 SAE 0W-40 ExxonMobil
Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel SAE 0W-40 ExxonMobil
Motorex Profile B-XL SAE 0W-30 Bucher AG
Motorex Select SP-X SAE 5W-30 Bucher AG
Motul Specific LL-01 SAE 5W-30 Motul S.A:
OMV full syn plus SAE 5W-30 OMV AG
Pennzoil European Formula Ultra SAE 5W-30 Pennzoil Quaker State
Pentospeed 0W-30 VS* SAE 0W-30 Deutsche Pentosin-Werke
Petronas Syntium 3000 LL SAE 5W-30 Petronas
Q8 Formula Special SAE 0W-30 Kuwait Petroleum
Quaker State European Formula Ultra SAE 5W-30 Pennzoil Quaker State
Satoil LazerWay B SAE 5W-30 Svenska Statoil AB
Shell Helix Ultra AB SAE 5W-30 Shell International Petroleum Company
Titan Supersyn SL SAE 0W-30 Fuchs Petrolub AG
Valvoline SynPower MXL SAE 0W-30 Valvoline
Veedol Powertron LL01 SAE 5W-30 Veedol International
Veedol Syntron SAE 0W-30 Veedol International
Wintershall VIVA 1 Longlife SAE 5W-30 SRS Schmierstoff Vertrieb GmbH
Yacco VX 1600 SAE 5W-30 Yacco S.A.S. __________________



This link shows some rankings from some studies regarding reliability:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...14-post15.html

A Fun way to make a point if you have your oil changed at a dealer that you can't trust not to over fill your oil.
Make a grill badge with a hint:


Any time someone works on our cars we inspect the work and have them give us the warn parts. One time, with another brand of car, the dealer overfilled the oil. We told the dealer to drain out the extra oil, change the crush washer and set it properly. The dealer told us, "It is OK unless you rev the motor above 1/2 way,,,." We then (within 5 min of us checking oil on the dealer's lot) called the car manufacture and handed the phone to the dealer. The manufacturer told the dealer that it is very possible to cause engine damage due to over filling the motor with oil. The manufacturer instructed the dealer to drain out the extra oil, change the crush washer and set it properly. Then the dealer did it correctly as instructed by the customer and the brand's north american service VP manager.

When I spoke to my local MINI dealer's Service Adviser I asked him what the oil capacity is in a Mini Cooper S R56 motor. He told me he thought it was between 4.6 and 4.9 quarts (WRONG answer). I asked him to do better than guess. He called one the techs and asked. He said it was between 4.7 and 4.9 (WRONG answer). The WRONG answer from two people at the same dealer.

 

Wow, amazing write up! Thanks.

 

That is the most informative post I have seen on the topic. Thanks!

 

Thanks guys.

I added some more information that may come in handy at some point.

 

I had checked my oil a couple of weeks ago, first time since the last dealer oil change, and had to try multiple times to get some kind of a legible reading. After leaving the cleaned dipstick out for over an hour on 3 different occasions, I could finally see there was some textured area showing in the middle of the measurement area meaning I must be within a quart of maximum fill.
I've now decided to do my midpoint (5000) miles oil change without replacing the filter. I may eventually start doing oil and filter every 5000.
I drained the oil as completely as possible on level ground and collected approximately 4.25 quarts.
Is this about how much should come out without a filter change? I have an N16 engine (2013 "Justa ")

 

Wow I just drain the oil & refill the proper amount. Pull the dipstick clean insert & pull again. Easy peasy.

Great post on checking the oil, made me chuckle.

 

Im sure your oil always reads fine. That's great for you then, easy peasy.

 

There is a way easier way to check - pull out the dipstick, and roll it over a paper towel. The oil will transfer to paper and you will clearly see where the line starts.

Once the oil gets dirties, it also becomes more visible on the dipstick.

I would do both, if only not to loose track of when to replace (vs. skip replacing) the oil filter during oil changes.
You will be spending $30+ on the oil, so throwing in another $10 for an oil filter is not that much more expensive.

Full engine capacity is 4.4 US quarts.
If you got out 4.25, you were likely over-filled (unless you left it dripping out overnight). Either way, you are good.

a

 

Thread resurrection..... I think im near the dangerzone of being overfilled in my Countryman S. Did my own oil change yesterday, let the car drain for 15 mins on a level surface then added 4 liters of oil, as opposed to the 4.2 that the manual says, to avoid potential overfilling (that didnt work out :P). When i check the level with the cravenspeed dipstick, it goes all the way up above the measurement portion, into about 1.5cm of the spring that goes all the way up. on the stock disptick its just over the top of where the plastic bit begins and is now the metal rod on the dipstick (hard to tell though with the stock one, put them both side by side and its about right of where they measure up). Being that far overfilled, should i drain some ASAP?

 

Might help posting a picture of where the oil level is on the dipstick. When I was overfilled I just pulled the drain plug a bit and pushed it back in after it drained for a few seconds. Eventually got it at a happy mark and it was an ease of mind for me knowing it was at the proper level. Here is a helpful DIY tech article that can help with future oil changes.

-Luccia

 

Went ahead and tried draining some out, i thought i was draining too much, but in the end it doesnt seem like it changed much tbh, it is from what i can tell at the bottom of the "drop" shaped part on the top of the dipstick red plastic. Going to let it rest overnight and check it tomorrow as i just keep bringing oil up in the dipstick tube making it impossible to accurately tell the level tbh. So does anyone know how high is too high? Anyone drive with it above the red plastic level on the dipstick? Im tempted to go back and take some more out. The confusing part to me is that it drained completely and i added less then what is recommended, yet its still overfilled.