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A basic guide to Spark Plugs.

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  #26  
Old 09-21-2010, 08:15 AM
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The plugs I am using are NGK: BKR7EQUP for an R53.
 
  #27  
Old 09-21-2010, 08:38 AM
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There is no need to gap these, as these come pre gapped, so unless they have been dropped or the gaps don't look consistent with each other, then just install them.
 
  #28  
Old 09-21-2010, 11:35 AM
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+1 to czar. Any of the multi-prong plugs are pregapped and should not be adjusted. Just observe if any of them appear to be way out of place (i.e. plug was banged or dropped).

If memory serves, the Bentley manual states single-prong plugs should be .028-.032 gap.

Got my Brisk DOR14LGS plugs in today. Man, these things are bad! Definitely looking forward to putting them in. Gonna hit the dyno here in the next couple of weeks.
 
  #29  
Old 09-21-2010, 01:40 PM
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This is awesome! Threads like this are THE reason I keep scanning this forum. Just sayin' ......

Thank you Czar!
 
  #30  
Old 09-25-2010, 02:59 PM
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Wow, I'm kinda overwhelmed with this information.
Thanks for the excellent writeup czar.
 
  #31  
Old 10-28-2010, 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by JumpingJackFlash
Aha! Now I understand why everyone likes Brisk plugs. They make them with a silver core.

From what I have researched, they have the same lifespan as copper plugs. For anyone interested:

Standard Cooper/S: BRSK-DR15S (non-projected tip), BRSK-DR15YS (projected tip)
Cooper S w/JCW or 15% pulley: BRSK-DR14S (non-projected tip), BRSK-DR14YS (projected tip)
Two ranges colder: BRSK-DR12S (non-projected tip), BRSK-DR12YS (projected tip)

Here is a Brisk products page with links to cross-reference charts: http://www.briskusa.com/products.htm. The DR series do have resistance built-in.

Here is a Nology cross-reference page: http://www.nology.com/crossref.html. Many of the Nology silver plugs are non-resistor style for maximum performance. This means you may get some noise from the engine in your stereo.

So what it the difference between a projected vs non-projected tip?
 

Last edited by mellanor; 10-28-2010 at 02:39 PM. Reason: spelling
  #32  
Old 10-28-2010, 02:54 PM
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I suppose I should expand on my earlier question. I understand that non-projected tips are used in many racing applications, but which would work best in a highly modified MCS?
 
  #33  
Old 11-05-2010, 06:26 AM
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Iridium Plugs

In response to your posting I wanted to mention that a reputable tuner told me not to use iridium or platinum plugs in my 2006 Cooper S because it can cause detonation. He recommended I switch to a $2.00 copper core plug. My only mods are a Dinan CAI and a WMW 17% pulley. I have not had the ECU tuned.

Can you and anyone else throw some comments to me on this.
 
  #34  
Old 11-05-2010, 06:51 AM
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Originally Posted by tutono
In response to your posting I wanted to mention that a reputable tuner told me not to use iridium or platinum plugs in my 2006 Cooper S because it can cause detonation. He recommended I switch to a $2.00 copper core plug. My only mods are a Dinan CAI and a WMW 17% pulley. I have not had the ECU tuned.
I'm not a fan of iridium plugs, but the stock plugs are platinum and I've been running platinum plugs in my cars and customer cars and the race car with no issues. I recommend sticking with the NGK JCW plugs they work great, last a long time, and don't come loose.
 
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  #35  
Old 11-05-2010, 07:13 AM
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Can you tell me what is stamped on the plug for pert number info. It looks to me that these are what I pulled out to put in the iridiums. If so, I will just put them back in since they are still quite clean. Mine have NGK N5 BMW on the insulator, but I don't remember the exact NGK product number that is stamped on the lower body of the plug.
 
  #36  
Old 11-05-2010, 07:20 AM
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No spark plug will or should come loose, if correctly torqued with NO anti-seize compound applied to the threads, this is a BIG NO and should always be the case, as well as ALWAYS install spark plugs into a cold or very cool engine, remember the basics of heat expansion and contraction!

One of the other most common causes of spark plug loosening is, heat harmonic vibrations, heat harmonic vibrations are caused when a cylinder has a lean situation, this increases the frequency of the explosion impulse, and generates irregular heat vibrations, and in turn this can and does loosen the spark plug.
 
  #37  
Old 11-05-2010, 07:23 AM
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Originally Posted by tutono
Can you tell me what is stamped on the plug for pert number info. It looks to me that these are what I pulled out to put in the iridiums. If so, I will just put them back in since they are still quite clean. Mine have NGK N5 BMW on the insulator, but I don't remember the exact NGK product number that is stamped on the lower body of the plug.
Cooper S: NGK: PLZBR7A-G and JCW: NGK: ILZKBR7A-8G tightening torque: 15-20nm (10.8-14.5 lbs/ft) thread diameter/pitch M12 x 1.25 socket size 14mm, electrode gap: pre set, heat range 7

Part No on the lower body is, V 7534226
 
  #38  
Old 11-19-2010, 10:26 PM
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Originally Posted by czar
No spark plug will or should come loose, if correctly torqued with NO anti-seize compound applied to the threads, this is a BIG NO and should always be the case, as well as ALWAYS install spark plugs into a cold or very cool engine, remember the basics of heat expansion and contraction!

One of the other most common causes of spark plug loosening is, heat harmonic vibrations, heat harmonic vibrations are caused when a cylinder has a lean situation, this increases the frequency of the explosion impulse, and generates irregular heat vibrations, and in turn this can and does loosen the spark plug.
Great stuff czar. Many thanks for sharing your knowledge. You are a spark plug maven!
 
  #39  
Old 12-20-2010, 06:36 AM
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I can't remember what it is called but I remember a technique when owning my Spec V was that you find out where the fuel injetor is and aim the open end of the spark gap is. I know it is going to gain any kind of power but it will at least make it a tid bit more effiencent.
 
  #40  
Old 12-20-2010, 07:15 AM
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What your referring too is, commonly known as indexing, this is where you try to align the electrode gap, in the orientation of the Inlet valve/s, it can and does help with the ignition of the fuel charge mix.

Some spark plug manufacturers, are now experimenting to supply future spark plugs, that when installed will be correctly indexed, to optimise the fuel charge mix.
 
  #41  
Old 12-20-2010, 12:39 PM
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You strike again. I will be trying this in a couple of days when I get a chance.
 
  #42  
Old 12-22-2010, 09:25 AM
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Porthos, fuel injectors should spray an even cone atomized mixture. If they are not doing that, they need to be removed and cleaned, put a bottle of fuel injector cleaner into the fuel tank, or use Sea Foam.

czar, +1 to indexing comment. With the overhead cam head design in the MINI engines, the spark plug is placed evenly between the intake and exhaust valves (easily done since it is a 4-valve design). I believe this is one reason the Brisk plugs are recommended. They have four side electrodes that are evenly spaced around the center electrode. One of the Brisk plug designs does away with the side electrode(s) completely.
 
  #43  
Old 12-22-2010, 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by JumpingJackFlash
czar, +1 to indexing comment. With the overhead cam head design in the MINI engines, the spark plug is placed evenly between the intake and exhaust valves (easily done since it is a 4-valve design). I believe this is one reason the Brisk plugs are recommended. They have four side electrodes that are evenly spaced around the center electrode. One of the Brisk plug designs does away with the side electrode(s) completely.
Thank you for the information regarding the positioning of the spark plug on the 4 valve cylinder head design, and the information on the Brisk spark plugs.

I have to confess a little here, I do have a vested interest in Brisk spark plugs here in the UK.

I also design, machine and build racing engines, as well as many other race components.
 

Last edited by czar; 12-22-2010 at 11:58 AM.
  #44  
Old 01-10-2011, 01:07 PM
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Great write up Czar, I always enjoy good info.
Cheers
 
  #45  
Old 01-19-2011, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by ViperGTS
Ok,

I picked up the NGK: BKR7EQUP for my car.

I noticed they aren't 4 prong like the other ones.....

Is this an issue? Will it cause any problems down the road?

Thanks!
But they are 4 pronged

 
  #46  
Old 01-19-2011, 09:12 AM
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  #47  
Old 01-30-2011, 07:49 PM
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Yes, NGK BKR series have four prongs. So, you get that from the factory. 1st-gen MCS come with BKR5s or BKR6s, depending on the destination climate. Not sure about 2nd-gen MCS, but I would bet money it's the same.
 
  #48  
Old 02-16-2011, 09:38 PM
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I am having a 15% pulley installed on Tuesday. I also purchased an MSD coil pack, new wires and the Brisk silver plugs from ALTA. Did I read in an earlier post that I should wait a while after the pulley install to install the ignition items? If so how long? Or can I do it all the same day?
 
  #49  
Old 02-17-2011, 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Mballducci
I am having a 15% pulley installed on Tuesday. I also purchased an MSD coil pack, new wires and the Brisk silver plugs from ALTA. Did I read in an earlier post that I should wait a while after the pulley install to install the ignition items? If so how long? Or can I do it all the same day?
I had all of the above done at one time with no problems. The ECM learns the changes through an array of sensors and adjusts accordingly. I have heard a few times such mods causing a check engine light to come on, but this is likely due to sensors/parts being out of tolerance or a faulty installation.
 
  #50  
Old 02-18-2011, 03:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Mballducci
I am having a 15% pulley installed on Tuesday. I also purchased an MSD coil pack, new wires and the Brisk silver plugs from ALTA. Did I read in an earlier post that I should wait a while after the pulley install to install the ignition items? If so how long? Or can I do it all the same day?
I had brisks and had starting problems that went away with a set of NGK's
 


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