What did you do to your mini today?
I have R90 Mini wheels and it clears width with 12mm spacer (but barely, I would not be comfortable driving like that). I think it would be good with 15mm spacer though. The issue with R90 wheels is that inside the wheel barrel is not uniform, it wider at the rear and narrower in the front. So the narrow part does not clear the caliper
That would be very close, i would play it safe with 18" but the JCW Gp2 will fit with spacers on 17 Challenger wheels. The JCW GP2 calipers are tucked, the stoptechs might be a little to big on the caliper. Do you have 17" wheels in any make to test the barrel size ? I know only certain size 17" ssr, oz, and team dynamics will work.
Here is a template guide:
http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...ment-templates
Here is a template guide:
http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...ment-templates
Yea, know about the R90, sold allot of them , yes the barrel is not flat I would test with a 15mm first, if its too close i would run a bigger wheel. those R90s looks so good though :( The cost of running big brakes.
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Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
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MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
So, are most of the aftermarket wheels have flat barrels? I am thinking 42mm offset should clear it (but I am not 100% on the whole offset part)
Some, not all. You will have to test it or go larger. Since its so close. Thats the only way to know.
__________________
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
MINI Guru/ MINI Owner Since 2004 | NEW Lifetime Part Replacement | Local Pickup
Milltek | Genuine MINI | Forge Motorsport | NM Engineering | ECS Performance | M7 Speed
Customer Service Hours: 8am-8pm EST|Sales Team Hours: 8am-11pm | SAT 10am-7pm 800.924.5172
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Someone spun one of the tires a little!
Nope, no flat tire light. Just the DSC triangle light stays on. The light that goes on/off with the DSC switch.
Ok, so this looks to be normal?
I believe I got a little spirited and noticed the light come on and stay on. Parked, shut him down, turned him back over and light was off.
That means it was meant to be! hehe
My BARNABY LIVES TO SEE ANOTHER DAY!!! Thanks to memo79 we were able to switch out the coolant hoses, fill and bleed the system, and hook the car up to a computer. The coolant system is doing its job and I am the happiest MINI owner alive. I may not have to get rid of the car after all. Now to slowly build trust in the car again and monitor the coolant level. Thanks memo!!! Cheers all!
Well, today I put the finishing touches on my "add a subwoofer" project in my 2013 S convertible.
Re-installed the side floor trim and front seats, which had to be removed so I could run the power and signal wiring to the Profile California AP400 amp I installed under the passenger sea, which will drive the sub. That gets its audio feed from my Harmon Kardon system via an Integral Audio x9331 wiring harness. While that integrates with the factory wiring perfectly, installing it is a project in itself. The connectors it goes between are buried in the R57. After you finally excavate them and get the adapter connected, you then get to enjoy finding a way to get that mass of wire properly back in place behind the sill panel.
Installed and connected the custom speaker cabinet I built that fills the bottom part of the boot. It houses a 10" Image Dynamics IDQ10 dual voice coil subwoofer, which I used in the system in my previous car. Cabinet is an acoustic suspension design, slightly over .7 cubic feet , which gets the sub down to a resonant frequency of about 19 hz.
The only real issue I faced was finding a source for the turn-on line to the new additional amplifier. The Integral Audio instructions refer to a black wire coming out of pin 1 on the x15 connector as the source for supplemental amp turn on, but I found that wire in my R57 S is 12+V constant even when the car is idle without the fob in place. So I had come up with a work around, which was to use a piggyback fuse adapter to get switched 12+V from the fuse that feeds the power socket at the front of the console, which doesn't provide voltage until the engine is running.
Lastly, I discovered that the sub volume control that Integral provides as part of their 1101S Subwoofer System is an aftermarket item (PAC LC1) that is readily available on Amazon, so I added that to the final install.
I'll post pictures of the results this weekend.
Re-installed the side floor trim and front seats, which had to be removed so I could run the power and signal wiring to the Profile California AP400 amp I installed under the passenger sea, which will drive the sub. That gets its audio feed from my Harmon Kardon system via an Integral Audio x9331 wiring harness. While that integrates with the factory wiring perfectly, installing it is a project in itself. The connectors it goes between are buried in the R57. After you finally excavate them and get the adapter connected, you then get to enjoy finding a way to get that mass of wire properly back in place behind the sill panel.
Installed and connected the custom speaker cabinet I built that fills the bottom part of the boot. It houses a 10" Image Dynamics IDQ10 dual voice coil subwoofer, which I used in the system in my previous car. Cabinet is an acoustic suspension design, slightly over .7 cubic feet , which gets the sub down to a resonant frequency of about 19 hz.
The only real issue I faced was finding a source for the turn-on line to the new additional amplifier. The Integral Audio instructions refer to a black wire coming out of pin 1 on the x15 connector as the source for supplemental amp turn on, but I found that wire in my R57 S is 12+V constant even when the car is idle without the fob in place. So I had come up with a work around, which was to use a piggyback fuse adapter to get switched 12+V from the fuse that feeds the power socket at the front of the console, which doesn't provide voltage until the engine is running.
Lastly, I discovered that the sub volume control that Integral provides as part of their 1101S Subwoofer System is an aftermarket item (PAC LC1) that is readily available on Amazon, so I added that to the final install.
I'll post pictures of the results this weekend.
Gave him a bath today. Cleans up well.
Out and about, the check engine light came on today. Woopee! Car ran fine, came home and put him in the garage. Connected him to the scanner and code P0340 came up. Camshaft Position Sensor! I guess it could be worse.
Cruising through NAM, it appears that the standard operating procedure is to clear the code and wait for strike two. So that is what I did. I cleared the code and took him for a test drive. Put on about 10-15 miles and nothing. He appears to be running fine like any other day. So I will sit and wait.
Mileage marker – 113,028 miles.
I will order the sensor along with the transmission mount for when I go in and replace a bunch of stuff. Glad I was being a little lazy… I hate going in twice.
Out and about, the check engine light came on today. Woopee! Car ran fine, came home and put him in the garage. Connected him to the scanner and code P0340 came up. Camshaft Position Sensor! I guess it could be worse.
Cruising through NAM, it appears that the standard operating procedure is to clear the code and wait for strike two. So that is what I did. I cleared the code and took him for a test drive. Put on about 10-15 miles and nothing. He appears to be running fine like any other day. So I will sit and wait.
Mileage marker – 113,028 miles.
I will order the sensor along with the transmission mount for when I go in and replace a bunch of stuff. Glad I was being a little lazy… I hate going in twice.
It's been a while since I've posted here. This past week has been a busy one for Pepper. Here's the rundown...
DONE
- New Spyder F56 style head lights
- iJDMtoy Projector fog lights
- Stripped and redipped all chrome, badges, fender lights, and my hood scoop
- Much needed tire rotation
- Replaced faulty Thermostat
- Helix FMIC
- Removed front plate
- Interior detail, exterior wash
TO-DO
- Plug license plate holes
- Install front tow hook license plate holder
- Order HID kits for all four projectors
- Plasti-Dip rims
- Replace dead reverse light
DONE
- New Spyder F56 style head lights
- iJDMtoy Projector fog lights
- Stripped and redipped all chrome, badges, fender lights, and my hood scoop
- Much needed tire rotation
- Replaced faulty Thermostat
- Helix FMIC
- Removed front plate
- Interior detail, exterior wash
TO-DO
- Plug license plate holes
- Install front tow hook license plate holder
- Order HID kits for all four projectors
- Plasti-Dip rims
- Replace dead reverse light