Best RPF1 size for track toy car
#26
OVERDRIVE
iTrader: (1)
Being your first time out in a MINI, I am surprised that you have not asked those "first time questions" about "what do I need to the car"...well, I understand that you have done motorcycle track and may know most of this anyway, but I will stick my nose in here.
First and foremost - Before you go change and fully flush the brake fluid. The MINI stuff is good, the Motal 600 is much better. People have mixed success with the ATE 200 (?, hope I got that right). I use the Wilwood 570.
2nd - get a good set of brake pads for the front (the stock pads are fine for the back). With the motorcycle experience you have, you will likely be late braking before the end of the day which will fry those pads. Personally, I would go to Way Motors and have them ship me a set of Carbotech XP10s. You can drive them on the street (noisy though), they are easy on rotors and they are a fantastic track pad. Another option is the Hawk HP+ or the street/track pad that is just above that one (which would be my preference). With those you will need to watch for pad fade if they get overheated.
3rd - get a set of CG locks; one for you and one for the instructor. Another options is to get a set of Schroth Quick Fit harnesses (https://www.northamericanmotoring.com...ness-pair.html). However, be prepared that some instructors won't use them without a rollbar in the car as they fear that they will trap you in the seat and a rollover will be a bad problem.
4th - read the following thread for anything I missed:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...questions.html
Lastly but most importantly - have fun. The MINI is a great car to learn in.
#27
Thank you for the invite but I do not currently have the tires to be of any use at this event.
On Saturday I am having Bridgestone RE 11s put on the stock 17x7 wheels until I figure out my next move.
I think I will go with 15x7 wheels
Def invite me to the next event and I will try to make it out
#28
Around here BMWCCA HPDEs are the best for instruction and for running safe and well controlled events so you can feel assured that you will be able to drive your car home.
Being your first time out in a MINI, I am surprised that you have not asked those "first time questions" about "what do I need to the car"...well, I understand that you have done motorcycle track and may know most of this anyway, but I will stick my nose in here.
First and foremost - Before you go change and fully flush the brake fluid. The MINI stuff is good, the Motal 600 is much better. People have mixed success with the ATE 200 (?, hope I got that right). I use the Wilwood 570.
2nd - get a good set of brake pads for the front (the stock pads are fine for the back). With the motorcycle experience you have, you will likely be late braking before the end of the day which will fry those pads. Personally, I would go to Way Motors and have them ship me a set of Carbotech XP10s. You can drive them on the street (noisy though), they are easy on rotors and they are a fantastic track pad. Another option is the Hawk HP+ or the street/track pad that is just above that one (which would be my preference). With those you will need to watch for pad fade if they get overheated.
3rd - get a set of CG locks; one for you and one for the instructor. Another options is to get a set of Schroth Quick Fit harnesses (https://www.northamericanmotoring.com...ness-pair.html). However, be prepared that some instructors won't use them without a rollbar in the car as they fear that they will trap you in the seat and a rollover will be a bad problem.
4th - read the following thread for anything I missed:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...questions.html
Lastly but most importantly - have fun. The MINI is a great car to learn in.
Being your first time out in a MINI, I am surprised that you have not asked those "first time questions" about "what do I need to the car"...well, I understand that you have done motorcycle track and may know most of this anyway, but I will stick my nose in here.
First and foremost - Before you go change and fully flush the brake fluid. The MINI stuff is good, the Motal 600 is much better. People have mixed success with the ATE 200 (?, hope I got that right). I use the Wilwood 570.
2nd - get a good set of brake pads for the front (the stock pads are fine for the back). With the motorcycle experience you have, you will likely be late braking before the end of the day which will fry those pads. Personally, I would go to Way Motors and have them ship me a set of Carbotech XP10s. You can drive them on the street (noisy though), they are easy on rotors and they are a fantastic track pad. Another option is the Hawk HP+ or the street/track pad that is just above that one (which would be my preference). With those you will need to watch for pad fade if they get overheated.
3rd - get a set of CG locks; one for you and one for the instructor. Another options is to get a set of Schroth Quick Fit harnesses (https://www.northamericanmotoring.com...ness-pair.html). However, be prepared that some instructors won't use them without a rollbar in the car as they fear that they will trap you in the seat and a rollover will be a bad problem.
4th - read the following thread for anything I missed:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...questions.html
Lastly but most importantly - have fun. The MINI is a great car to learn in.
Hi thank you for the all the tips. I should have mentioned some additional points.
Even with my limited experience in cars I do know quite a bit of track requirements.
I am running high quality dot 4 fluid and Hawk HP+ pads on stock rotors. No brake ducting unfortunately (ordered WMW ducts but are on back order hopefully in time for my next event on Sep 19 at GSS)
I have the Schroth quickfit harness which is excellent
I 'had" (RIP) Michelin pilot sports which were not up to the task
I have a ton of experience racing bikes so I know the importance of brakes, tires and light weight. Then suspension and power comes last. I will apply this to my car build as well.
Unfortunately this recent stock market dumpage has stalled my plans for a bit.
Last edited by Rennfahrer555; 08-26-2015 at 01:13 PM. Reason: im awesome
#29
OVERDRIVE
iTrader: (1)
Hi thank you for the all the tips. I should have mentioned some additional points.
Even with my limited experience in cars I do know quite a bit of track requirements.
I am running high quality dot 4 fluid and Hawk HP+ pads on stock rotors. No brake ducting unfortunately (ordered WMW ducts but are on back order hopefully in time for my next event on Sep 19 at GSS)
I have the Schroth quickfit harness which is excellent
I 'had" (RIP) Michelin pilot sports which were not up to the task
I have a ton of experience racing bikes so I know the importance of brakes, tires and light weight. Then suspension and power comes last. I will apply this to my car build as well.
Unfortunately this recent stock market dumpage has stalled my plans for a bit.
Even with my limited experience in cars I do know quite a bit of track requirements.
I am running high quality dot 4 fluid and Hawk HP+ pads on stock rotors. No brake ducting unfortunately (ordered WMW ducts but are on back order hopefully in time for my next event on Sep 19 at GSS)
I have the Schroth quickfit harness which is excellent
I 'had" (RIP) Michelin pilot sports which were not up to the task
I have a ton of experience racing bikes so I know the importance of brakes, tires and light weight. Then suspension and power comes last. I will apply this to my car build as well.
Unfortunately this recent stock market dumpage has stalled my plans for a bit.
If you don't mind one more comment for when you take your MINI to the track - The MINIs are camber-challenged with only about -0.3 deg stock. No matter what the tire and tire pressure, if you push it hard into the corners you will roll the tires over onto the sidewalls. Camber plates are usually high on people's mod list for a car going to the track. For a street/track car the IE fixed plates work well and you can find them used on NAM (I know, later, but something to think about). I also find that the tires don't like to be over 40 psi hot. On the other hand, I know people who have run the RE 11s on their stock Cooper Ss and they performed really well for them, consistent with their rating on Tire Rack. Just factor these things together, adjust for them and have fun.
#30
Thank you for the invite but I do not currently have the tires to be of any use at this event.
On Saturday I am having Bridgestone RE 11s put on the stock 17x7 wheels until I figure out my next move.
I think I will go with 15x7 wheels
Def invite me to the next event and I will try to make it out
On Saturday I am having Bridgestone RE 11s put on the stock 17x7 wheels until I figure out my next move.
I think I will go with 15x7 wheels
Def invite me to the next event and I will try to make it out
#31
ok so i have gone away and chewed on this and done some more research
I think 15x8 would be an optimal size I am just not sure which size spacer/offset I will need.
15x8 allows added traction and essentially cancels out the weight penalty of a larger tire by having a smaller rim.
The stock brakes are already really good once you have a race pad on there so there is no need to upgrade
Lastly and perhaps most importantly moving from a 17 in wheel to a 15 in will lower my ride height by 1 inch improving handling dramatically.
I think 15x8 would be an optimal size I am just not sure which size spacer/offset I will need.
15x8 allows added traction and essentially cancels out the weight penalty of a larger tire by having a smaller rim.
The stock brakes are already really good once you have a race pad on there so there is no need to upgrade
Lastly and perhaps most importantly moving from a 17 in wheel to a 15 in will lower my ride height by 1 inch improving handling dramatically.
#32
I will admit I have ZERO track experience, at least at this point. I'm trying to educate myself a bit with the experience you folks have.
OP, I'm only posting to let you know that I run RPF1's in the 15x8 28ET on my R53, and am lowered on PSS10's, roughly about 1.5-1.75" ft and rr.
I use no spacers, and they clear all of my existing suspension pieces with no issues, with ft and rr camber both set at -2. A friend that races a B-Spec Mini set up the suspension. I get no rubbing at all with a 205/50/15 tire-however that's just under spirited street use.
I'm really wanting to do some track days this year, so it's really nice to learn things from everyone on here.
OP, I'm only posting to let you know that I run RPF1's in the 15x8 28ET on my R53, and am lowered on PSS10's, roughly about 1.5-1.75" ft and rr.
I use no spacers, and they clear all of my existing suspension pieces with no issues, with ft and rr camber both set at -2. A friend that races a B-Spec Mini set up the suspension. I get no rubbing at all with a 205/50/15 tire-however that's just under spirited street use.
I'm really wanting to do some track days this year, so it's really nice to learn things from everyone on here.
#33
OVERDRIVE
iTrader: (1)
got to say I love the Electric Blue almost as good as the Indi Blue on my wife's MINI.
Where are you looking to go out on the track?
It sounds like your car is nicely set up. The spec B specs should do you nicely. However, I will always harp on this, but get yourself a set of race pads. Maybe for your first day out the HP+ will be OK, but after that please get yourself a set of race pads. I would recommend a set of Carbotech XP10s for the front. They are great even for a beginner. Way motors carries them. The rears are fine with the stock pads.
I am all about having fun and being safe. Enjoy
Where are you looking to go out on the track?
It sounds like your car is nicely set up. The spec B specs should do you nicely. However, I will always harp on this, but get yourself a set of race pads. Maybe for your first day out the HP+ will be OK, but after that please get yourself a set of race pads. I would recommend a set of Carbotech XP10s for the front. They are great even for a beginner. Way motors carries them. The rears are fine with the stock pads.
I am all about having fun and being safe. Enjoy
#34
Thanks Eddie....I have to admit Elec. Blue wasn't my first choice but there weren't a lot of R53 JCW's out there, however I've grown to really like the Elec. Blue!
Summit Point in West VA is only about 90min from me. Have been there as a spectator a number of times, but would love to get the Mini out there. I'm also only a few hours from VIR in Southern VA.
And I totally appreciate the input on the brake pads. That's the kind of stuff that I need to hear!
Thanks Eddie!
Summit Point in West VA is only about 90min from me. Have been there as a spectator a number of times, but would love to get the Mini out there. I'm also only a few hours from VIR in Southern VA.
And I totally appreciate the input on the brake pads. That's the kind of stuff that I need to hear!
Thanks Eddie!
#35
OVERDRIVE
iTrader: (1)
Thanks Eddie....I have to admit Elec. Blue wasn't my first choice but there weren't a lot of R53 JCW's out there, however I've grown to really like the Elec. Blue!
Summit Point in West VA is only about 90min from me. Have been there as a spectator a number of times, but would love to get the Mini out there. I'm also only a few hours from VIR in Southern VA.
And I totally appreciate the input on the brake pads. That's the kind of stuff that I need to hear!
Thanks Eddie!
Summit Point in West VA is only about 90min from me. Have been there as a spectator a number of times, but would love to get the Mini out there. I'm also only a few hours from VIR in Southern VA.
And I totally appreciate the input on the brake pads. That's the kind of stuff that I need to hear!
Thanks Eddie!
One thing that caught my attention is having 205-50 tires on a 8" wide rim while the recommended max width is 7.5". That is stretching the tire a bit. I would just watch tires closely while out on the track. I would imagine that they will be a bit less than optimal being stretch.
As for track advice, for a novice, other than brake pads, you will need to change brake fluid and engine oil just before you go to your event. I would also suggest getting a set of CG locks (http://www.waymotorworks.com/search....=search&page=1).
You will need to get 2 sets, one for you and one for your instructor.
From my experience the BMWCCA events are the best for learning, instructors, and instructions.
Most of all - have fun and be safe...
#36
Were the wheels holies?
Thanks!
#37
I will admit I have ZERO track experience, at least at this point. I'm trying to educate myself a bit with the experience you folks have.
OP, I'm only posting to let you know that I run RPF1's in the 15x8 28ET on my R53, and am lowered on PSS10's, roughly about 1.5-1.75" ft and rr.
I use no spacers, and they clear all of my existing suspension pieces with no issues, with ft and rr camber both set at -2. A friend that races a B-Spec Mini set up the suspension. I get no rubbing at all with a 205/50/15 tire-however that's just under spirited street use.
I'm really wanting to do some track days this year, so it's really nice to learn things from everyone on here.
OP, I'm only posting to let you know that I run RPF1's in the 15x8 28ET on my R53, and am lowered on PSS10's, roughly about 1.5-1.75" ft and rr.
I use no spacers, and they clear all of my existing suspension pieces with no issues, with ft and rr camber both set at -2. A friend that races a B-Spec Mini set up the suspension. I get no rubbing at all with a 205/50/15 tire-however that's just under spirited street use.
I'm really wanting to do some track days this year, so it's really nice to learn things from everyone on here.
#38
I run 949 Racing 6UL 15x8 wheels on my 2006 R53 JCW outfitted with KONI yellows and Swift Spec-R springs. Rubber is 225/45R15. The wheels are higher offset than the RPF1's (+38 vs. +28). I run a 5mm spacer in the back to clear the lower shock bolt on the rear trailing arm. I also put 5mm spacers in front just for the heck of it (they're not needed). Running about -2.5 camber in the front and about -1.5 in back purely for enhanced drivability at autocross. Zero rubbing anywhere.
The 15x8 RPF1's would be "plug and play" and you wouldn't need to add negative camber unless you want it.
The 15x8 RPF1's would be "plug and play" and you wouldn't need to add negative camber unless you want it.
Last edited by Minibeagle; 09-02-2021 at 10:26 AM.
#39
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