Ive had misfire 2 different ocasions and that was due to Bad coils, then I received the little engine in my tach, check the code and it was low fuel rail pressure. Ive been driving it for over a month it comes and goes, it happens for a moment or till i get to where I'm going then when i started to go back it was fine.
I called Mini and asked if it could be either the sensor, fuel filter and or fuel pump. he suggested the fuel pump of course it the most expensive part of all 3. I will be replacing the filter and pulling the pump to check for and obstructions before buying a new pump.

 

Ive had misfire 2 different ocasions and that was due to Bad coils, then I received the little engine in my tach, check the code and it was low fuel rail pressure. Ive been driving it for over a month it comes and goes, it happens for a moment or till i get to where I'm going then when i started to go back it was fine.
I called Mini and asked if it could be either the sensor, fuel filter and or fuel pump. he suggested the fuel pump of course it the most expensive part of all 3. I will be replacing the filter and pulling the pump to check for and obstructions before buying a new pump.

 

No boost half engine light ,I hope I'm posting correctly, I have a 2011 cooper s convertible 89,000 miles. Dealer said I have a burnt turbocharger, my cost will be $3,400. I have a 100, mile maintenance warranty.
My car is on a recall list of 89, coopers for fire risk in the turbocharger cooling system ,the turbos oil feed bearings will caked up and fail causing turbo failure
viewed on CNN money, any help would be appreciated .

 

My 2012 MC has 47K on it and, less than a month after I had it in for its annual service, it started hesitating and stuttering on acceleration (a manual tranny). After no longer thinking it was bad gas (always use name brand 93 octane), I scheduled an appt. Before I can get to the appt., it throws the dreaded yellow light discussed on this thread. What is even more perplexing, I average about 30 mpg. On the way home, after I filled up and checked what this indicator meant at the gas station, I got an unprecedented 38 mpg! Now either the car is lying, or something is even more broken than I realize. Will keep everyone posted on the findings...

 

Just to add some information in case it helps others.
All4 has 63,000 miles, wife too it to dealer for oil and brake fluid changes, they talked her into doing an injector cleaning service. That night I took the car and it had a huge stumble when really getting on the gas. Tank was only a 1/4 full, so I thought maybe the injector cleaner wasn't mixed with enough gas and was causing the stumble.
I stopped and filled the tank, stumble remained. In doing some testing with it, it threw the yellow malfunction symbol. I went to checker and had them pull the code, misfire cyl 1.

Took it back to dealer next day, they scanned it, said the spark plugs were the issue ( which I doubted) and replaced them. I got car back, and indeed the plugs fixed the issue.

 

Well, it's happened on my 2012 for the fourth time in as many months now. Today I could barely get it back the 1 mile to home, car would not go above 10mph. Called Roadside Assistance and they will be flatbedding it to Mini. Last time they replaced the valtronic servomotor. It seems as if everything is analyzed by the diagnostic system and they follow a pre-written script. Step 1 seems to always be re-program the system and hope that clears it. Doesn't give me any confidence that they actually diagnose issues, just react to whatever the computer diagnostic system tells them to do.

 

When under warranty there is a process in play to follow per BMW and the diagnostics system. Go outside the process and the dealer ends up eating the bill...they have to go through the motions before they can go outside the box....

GL!

 

But how many times?

Ended being my High Pressure Fuel Pump, they replaced it, hopefully that will cure things...

Vin

 

I had the reduced power, check engine light four times on my '11 S ALL4. The first two times resulted in a ride on a rollback to the dealer for misfires due to bad coils. My SA tried to get the service manager to replace the other two but he declined. I ordered a spare to keep in the boot. Within six months of that I had replaced the other two original coils due to the same errors. Did it roadside without a trip to the dealer. Even though I replaced all four original coils, I still keep a spare with me at all times.

 

Just got the reduced power message on my 2011 CM S. Dealer said it was the thermostat. $640 plus $150 to change the fluid. Insane. I was thinking of trying it myself. Has anyone tried this? They said thermostat needed "programming" as well. I imagine I couldn't do the programming, but would that matter?

I attempted to look where the thermostat was located. I'm in Phoenix, and it's 115 today, so kept burning myself. I'll have to clean out the garage get it in there. It looked like it was on the passenger side near the firewall?

I figured I would change the spark plugs if I attempt the thermostat.

 

You have got to be kidding, for a thermostat...programming...why would it need that. I am cheap..I would call several dealers for estimates.

 

hi guys, I just got my wifes 2012 S-All4 back from the dealership and they figured out why shes been getting intermittent half power warnings the last 6 months. I was hoping anyone can shed any light for me with the description they gave. Mainly what the EPDW valve is because they told me its whats causing the warning to come on. comes and goes once a week. its been taken to the dealership a few times and was advised that it was safe to drive.



I was told the process would take about an hour and the job would cost $435 out the door. yikes. im guessing if its only an hours work it should be some where accessible so I plan to do it myself.

 

Good for you. I find great info on youtube to fix stuff. Just saved 400 fixing my own tv. Shop wanted 800.00 ripoff for sure, i did it of 49.00 part online.

 

I still don't know where at EPDW valve is. Lol.

 

I have a 2012 countryman with 92,220 miles. This car is nickel and diming me to death. The latest issue is the engine malfunction (yellow) light goes on arbitrarily. I feel no difference in the driving, and when I turn off the motor and turn it back on, the light will go off. The dealership is telling me it is the turbo boost that is malfunctioning. To fix it they want $3,500. The windows also don't work properly, but I have not even mentioned that to the dealership because that will cost me more thousands of dollars. This car is cute, fun to drive, easy to park in NYC, but I will NEVER buy another one. I would like to trade this car in ASAP, but feel stuck between a rock and a hard place. Should I spend the money to fix the turbo boost?

 

At 92,000 miles it doesn't surprise me that the turbo is starting to fail. Figure out what you can get for it on either a trade-in or private sale with the turbo issue left alone and then what you can get for it once fixed. The difference will help you determine if its worth fixing. Personally, I'd consider trading it in for a new one without the turbo.

 

I have a 2014 Countryman S-All4 with approx. 28k miles on the car. Back in January 2015, at about 15k miles, I was getting onto a parkway and suddenly received the dreaded engine malfunction reduced power output message. The car was definitely operating at reduced power; not exactly ideal in morning rush hour traffic on Long Island, especially as you're merging onto a highway - a little nerve-racking to say the least. I made it to work and then later limped to the dealer. The cause - an engine misfire due to a faulty coil and stated that, "it can happen sometimes." They replaced the plug and coil on the problematic cylinder. No further issues until last week when I received the same message, the car began running very rough and feeling like it would stall at any minute. I brought it back to the dealer and while they weren't able to tell me what caused the problem, they did replace all the plugs and coils and said that it cleared the error. When I pressed them to give me an answer as to why this happened again only 8 months later they were, of course, unable to do so. Car is running great now, but I'm fearful this is going to be a recurring problem. Since the first incident occurred below 18k miles and within 2 years of original delivery, I believe this may be covered by NYS Lemon Law. Looking for any advice / tips regarding the problem and/or NYS Lemon Law.
Thanks!

 

What was the fuel level for either of the times? I just had a problem where it stated misfire on all 4 cylinders and was low on fuel. Might have sucked up some crap from the bottom of the tank. After the dealer looked at it, they said the plan was to fill up and continue driving. No misfire errors after a day.

 

I am so glad we got a buy-back on the 2015 CM. So glad now. We got a MCS 2015 with the 2.0 made in Germany. This engine is awesome and everything anticipated in a MINI.

Anyone, I would wait till the 2.0 goes to the CM, it will be awesome. I miss the size, but not the headaches. We have numerous issues under 3K miles.

We had numerous NO starts.

 

I'm not sure what I was at back in January, but more recently I had over half a tank. It's pretty rare I let the fuel level drop too low.

 

Got misfires again on all 4 after running down to about 2-3 bars on the fuel gauge. They said the same thing and just to keep gas in it. I think it's a bunch of BS that I need to keep the tank pretty much full for this problem to not occur. Sounds like there's crap in the tank and they don't want to deal with it. Going to see how many times this becomes a problem. It's not every time when it gets that low that I can get fuel in it right away!

What were the fuel levels each of you has had when you had your reduced power messages?

 

I recently dealt with this issue on my 2012 Countryman S ALL4. The CEL came on while driving along with "reduced power" message accompanied by a noticeable power decrease. Now when I start it up (cold start) it will immediately throw the same message, idle rough, and if I drive it immediately it will not accelerater. After this first happened, I took it to the shop and was told it was throwing misfire codes and needed new coil packs and spark plugs. After changing these I am still experiencing the same issues and misfire codes. Starting to believe it's the HPFP so I will test the pressure soon and report back.

 

My tank was at 90% the first time, 100% the second, and %40 the third.....I doubt this issue is directly related to fuel level...

 

I have not had any codes show that we're specifically related to this - I had multiple misfire codes and the HPFP "low pressure" codes prior to replacing the HPFP the other night but I think they were pretty much all directly related to the fuel pump issue. I don't remember noticing this part make any audible noise before though and don't think it should be running with the car shut off...

 

Admin please remove this from this thread - I clumsily posted to the wrong one on my phone.