Hi all,
Recently got a 2015 Countryman. For 160k miles the thing has ran great and have enjoyed driving it much more than I thought.

Currently, it's not turning over. Here is what I've tried so far:

• Verified I'm getting spark in the plugs
• Verified airflow to cylinders (quick spray of starting fluid resulted in some combustion)
• Verified fuel pump relay is working
• Verified fuel pump is getting power when starting the car.
• No pressure in the fuel rail.
• No codes on reader.

I'm thinking about ordering a fuel pump but I was wondering if I should check something else first?
Here is the one I would be ordering: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...apg/11967512-P

Thanks.

 

If the engine doesn't crank that's not a symptom of a bad fuel pump.

That's likely a problem with the starter circuit the starter solenoid that fails to energize and move the starter pinion gear into engagement with the flywheel ring gear and concurrently close a switch that supplies power to the starter.

An old school trick is to tap the solenoid/starter while someone works the key/start button.

Another possible explanation is the car's security system doesn't recognize the key and its RFID. My experience is the RFID is a passive device that when the key is inserted into the ignition the car's security system transmits a RF signal towards the key. The antenna is located behind the ignition switch surround. The key's RFID circuit receives this RF transmission which powers the RFID circuit and it responses with the RFID key. This is received and processed by the car's security system. If the RFID is recognized the engine cranks. If not then engine just sits there.

(Senior techs used to quickly pop the RFID "pill" out of the key module. The new tech would try to start the engine. It would not start. Senior tech would take the key -- with his gloved hand and the RFID pill tucked in the glove at a end of a finger. The engine would start just fine. New tech would try. Same no start. After a few of these much laughter from the shop tech audience ensued...)

One take away is to try a 2nd key. The other key, which the engine fails to even crank when the key is used, may have a bad RFID.

 

If he has checked for spark and got a partial start with starter fluid, then the engine is obviously turning over. Just a misuse of terms I suspect. It seems the engine is turning over but not actually starting. If the OP isn't getting pressure at the fuel rail and the pump is getting voltage, then the problem pretty much has to be the pump.

 

Read "not turning over" and took that for no crank.

But yeah, re-reading the OP's post I now see the some engine running took place with starter fluid.

Fuel pump getting power is kind of half good. I recall when I had a car in with a suspected bad fuel pump the tech didn't bother to check the fuse or relay -- I had done this and maybe he trusted my diagnostics but maybe he just want to the heart of the matter -- instead he disconnected the fuel pump from the car's wiring harness and connected 12V power to the fuel pump directly. No fuel pump switch, relay, or fuse, or even bad wiring harness to worry about. Just fuel pump with 12V. Fuel pump did not run. Replaced the fuel. Fixed.

If the OP wants to get a higher confidence diagnosis the fuel pump is at fault he can try the same but of course he had better know what he's doing. For example, static discharge into the car's wiring harness and this can take out the engine controller.