Did they ever change your thermostat?

 

No, they claim to have tested all sensors and found no problems. I really believe the dealers do not know what the problem is and until Mini acknowledges it and resolves it, the problem will continue. It could be thermal related, but it could also be a number of other things causing it. I'm going to take a drive to the high country (I live in Colorado) soon and see if it happens again. Will have my camera ready.

 

If the check engine light comes on, there should be a trouble code. Maybe if it happens again, in addition to a picture, go to the nearest auto shop or auto parts store and have them read the code while the light is still on.

I have a Scangauge connected to the OBD port on my car so I can read any trouble codes immediately. Also I use it to display actual coolant temperature, boost, and other functions. For example, if the thermostat goes bad it should be immediately apparent.

 

That's a really great idea, though the last time I worked on a car was roughly 1987 and I had to feel points on a 1978 Mazda rotary engine! Nonetheless, would like to get a scanguage connected. Any advice on how/where you can do that, please advise.

On a second note, I just spoke with the server manager at another Mini dealer who seems much more interested in helping me, though he's not terribly optimistic either. I'm taking the car to him next week and he's going to try and duplicate the problem. He did ask if the other folks posting similar issues lived at higher climates. What part of the country do you live in?

His final suggestion was that if the problem replicates and if they are unable to duplicate it, to escalate with Mini Nat'l. I'm probably going to get that ball rolling sooner than later.

 

The Scangauge II plugs into the OBDII universal port (present on all newer cars in US) right above the driver footrest. This is the port that your MINI dealer (or any shop) will use to check error codes.

The only hard parts are securing the extra wire with twist ties so that it does not fall down below the dash, and finding a mounting place for the velcro mount. I mounted it just left of the steering column/tach, and it is a tight fit. The down side of this location is that moving the steering column is somewhat restricted without pulling off and relocating the gauge.


They now have a smaller unit (SGe) (two parameter display) that would fit a Mini better:
http://www.scangauge.com/products/scangaugee/

 

Brilliant! Thanks for the info. Looks like the "e" will not capture codes, so the II is the better option. I'm going to give this second dealer a shot before I spend the $150 for one. Looks like a pretty handy product though and might just pick one up to have for future auto's. Looks nice and clean where you mounted it.

I'll report back after dealer #2 has finished with it.

 

The other good deal about it is that I could not stand not having a coolant temp gauge, which the SGII solves, and I like looking at boost, short trip mpg, and other interesting data.

 

ok...wasn't the thermostat that was throwing the code. This is what the tech wrote on my paperwork:

"I performed a short test with the ISID and found code 3225 DMTL Leak Diagnosis Pump, short to B+, I tested all wiring from the DMTL pump connector A60004 to DMTL Pump connector X1714, I found all wiring to test good at this time, I found that the DMTL pump was faulty, I replaced the DMTL pump, I performed Test 1214 after installing the new pump and found no problems at this time."

I asked the SA if this was a common issue for the CM and he said no. I also asked if the thermostat issue is resolved for the 2012 build and he thinks so. He hasn't seen the thermostat failing for the 2012 yet.

One more thing, what is a DMTL Pump?

 

I think it may be part of the evap emissions control system (controlling fuel vapors from fuel tank), based on some posts on Bimmerfest web site.

 

Our CM was built 01/2011 and delivered to us in 3/2011. We've had a bad HK amp at delivery, replacement of the turbo boost pressure sensor at ~6K miles, and a software update to make the stumble issue go away, but the thermostat hasn't been a problem.

 

This is my second day with the countryman first mini.....engine light on already...not a happy camper. Emailed my dealer no response yet. looked at the other posts...well haven't yet filled up the tank so it shouldn't be vapors; no loss of power in the engine; cooling fan operating after turn off; i did sense a slight hiccup in the engine once or twice but didn't think twice about it. This is so diappointing...I looked forward to getting this car so much and now I am beginning to think I made a mistake. I am afraid this is the first on many issues to come. joe cosmic blue

 

I think DR61 is right...

From BMW site:
Diagnosis Module - Tank Leakage detection. The DM TL is located under the luggage compartment floor with the Active Carbon Canister. It slightly pressurizes the fuel system to detect tank leaks. Bad pumps often cause code p0442 (evap system leak).

 

Sounds like the dreaded thermostat!

 

Don't fret over this. It's just the thermostat, and hopefully the end of your problems. No sense second guessing your purchase now, just relax and enjoy the car and see how it treats you in the long run.

 

I got my countryman back last weekend. They ran a couple of tests on my car and gave me a report said, since when you brought the car here the light was not on, they were not able to find out what the problem was and everything was normal. They were a little surprised that I mentioned the thermostat sensor problem you guys mentioned in this post. My service guy said I was doing homework and they did have thermostat sensor issues. Anyway, they were not changing any part of my countryman and said they did not need to. If the lights turned back on again, they suggested me to visit again. They assumed the light was on because I did not cap my gas tank securely and there was some leak of air into the tank which caused the abnormal pressure inside the engine.

 

Took my CM4 to the dealer I bought the car from, they're 1 hour away, so I've been going to one closer by. They opened a case with Mini Nat'l right away as there were no fixes for this problem on record. The car has been recording the faults (the other dealer told me it didn't record anything) and the errors have been engine knocking, which they stated reduces the fuel supply and power the engine puts out. Mini Nat'l recommended replacing the sensor that detects this error though the local dealer seems less than optimistic that this will fix the problem. The dealer asked me to keep my gas receipts, which show proof of using high-test gas, which I agreed to do. Will pick up the car tomorrow and keep my fingers crossed, though I'm even less optimistic than the dealer at this point.

 

Sorry I haven't updated since my last post. We were on vacation.

Took my CM in and it was the thermostat. They worked me into their full schedule and replaced my peeling trim without a request the day I called.

We drove from Ohio to Hilton Head and back without any issues. Here's hoping....

 

lindseybp
I had the same issues recently... Light comes on, then went off in about 3 days of driving... Light was on when I took my MINI in for state inspection, the tech told me that it could be an emissions thing with the gas cap (nothing came up in error on the computer check). He said to remove the cap then replace it. I did that, there was a small release of fumes, and the light went off (like I said about 3 days later), but I had no power loss either. He told me if it does it again, to replace the gas cap, which I'm going to do soon. We'll see if this makes a difference. I use mid-grade (89) to premium (93-95), so I don't think it has anything to do with the gas I'm using...

 

After reading several of the posts here I thought it would be helpful to mention a couple of things. Every time the CES (check engine soon) light gets turned on, an error code is stored by your OBD (on board diagnostics) system, and that error code will point the technician toward the source of the problem. The code is stored until erased by a scan tool...the code does not "go away" just because the light is turned off. That is to assist the technician in diagnosing any problems even though the CES light is no longer lit. You said "nothing came up in error on the computer check". It could be that there is some sort of malfunction with the OBD system, but it's more likely the tech did not want to be bothered to read the trouble code(s) off your OBD. With respect to the CES light turning itself off, there are more than 100 reasons your CES light can be turned on, and with most of them the computer needs to see three consecutive engine cycles (more about this below) before it will shut the light off. I can't recall exactly how an engine cycle is defined (I have a Mini service manual, but not with me) but it has something to do with the engine being warmed from cold and/or the coolant temperature increasing by more than a specified number of degrees. So it could take a couple of days after a problem is corrected for the light to turn off. One other thing, there's no reason for the CES light to turn on if you use regular fuel. The engine adjusts to the available octane through the use of knock sensors that adjust the ignition timing. You will feel less power with regular fuel, but an occasional tank will not harm it.

 

Shortly after my '09 Mini S developed the infamous thermostat housing crack, at 50,703 mi., the check engine light came on, then went off. I replace the housing and the car was returned with the light on. My mechanic told me that it usually takes a few miles for the system to "reset" itself and not to worry. Well after a few days the light went off and after a few more days it come back on. This on again, off again has happened a few times, very frustrating. The car seems to be running just fine. I have had a slight hiccup of two, but the car remains strong. I've got an inspection coming up soon and I've got to get an answer to this problem. This car has been a bit of a problem. I really do love the car, it's a hoot, but it has been in the shop way more than any other car that I've owned. Any advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

 

DANG! So I got the yellow engine power light this evening. I was driving home from the gym and found myself in a position to go a little faster. I accelerated slowly rather than putting my foot in it! Then I slowed down, down shifting properly to a stop. When I went to take off, POW warning light! Acceleration is ZILCHO. I've her the car 1 month...

 

I got the yellow engine malfunction light last night at 3,200 miles. Got to the dealership this morning and told, "Turbo wastegate stuck closed causing turbocharger overheat". New T/C and wastegate now on order and driving a loaner for the near future...

 

Yay, put me in this category! I had a Yellow CEL too back at 27k miles and lost boost. I immediately went into a shell gas station and pumped up some gas into the car. Bam the check engine light went away. Now I got one this morning at 47k miles and I'm shocked, no huge major mods yet and the car had no boost. Mind you, the yellow CEL only appeared on my little tach and not my middle speedometer. I didn't have enough time to diagnose it since I had to go into work but I will check it after I leave here today and then probably put some gas in, I know sometimes it could be cause of bad gas. Hopefully it's not the turbo, waste gate, or anything too big, that would suck:-(.

 

Got mine at 6900 miles. Dealer said it was a Valvetronic issue and reprogrammed that subsystem. We'll see if the issue repeats. It was the first engine malfunction light I'd seen.

 

I just got that today, in our 2012 Countryman S ALL4. She did not have any issues before that, we have had her for almost a year, with 17k miles. I did notice a little stumbling at idle today when the light was on.

We had a 2011 Countryman (non-S). She had her thermostat replaced twice, but each time, the yellow temperature light came on along with the fan running all the time, along with the red temperature light eventually. The first time she was towed to the dealer, the second time we drove her in.

Our 2012 Countryman S ALL4 did not have any of the thermostat symptoms as our 2011 Countryman did, like the fan staying on with a yellow or red temp light. The 2012 Countryman S ALL4 had been much more reliable than our 2011 Countryman.

They won't be able to work on her until tomorrow, we will see what they find out. Meanwhile I am driving a 2013 Countryman S ALL4 loaner. I have to get used to the relocated window switches.