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I've seen the MINI front/rear brake DIY in the Wheels/Tires/Brakes forum, but the JCW is different.
Next week I'm going to swap out front and rear pads. I've done brake pads in the past on my M3, but the JCW looks a lot different.
With just a visual inspection, I'm not seeing how the rear calipers dismantle to remove the pads. It's not the normal spring arrangement I'm used to. I see something that looks more like a flat back clip, but it's not obvious how I do this.
On the 4-pot Brembo fronts, I can see there are what looks like quick release springs. I assume I pull them open. What then? Once I have the pads removed how do the pistons get compressed. It doesn't seem like the normal Harbor Freight like piston compression tool will work here, or am I wrong? I assume I apply anti-squeal in the normal places?
I plan on doing this Friday or Saturday, along with a fluid flush (and it looks like the power bleeder I used on the M3 will work). Then I'll be doing it again two weeks later for track pads on the front.
Is there a write up somewhere on dealing with changing pads on the factory JCW front/rear brakes? Or can someone provide some tips/traps/answers?
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2011 WR Blue Subaru WRX STi 4-door
2009 JCW Chili Red/White (gone, but not forgotten) RaceTripper Photos
From having Brembos before......On the front, I know that the two pins have to come out first. They punch out front to rear. This releases the spring (watch your face). Then the pads just lift out through the top. There are two piston compression tools available. You can find them on eBay cheaper than in stores. Antoher method is to use a small piece of wood against the pistons and press so that both compress. Some folks I know use a screwdiver to leverage the wood using the rotor. As you can guess both have to go in at the same time. The new pads slide right in. Replace the top spring and install the pins (bottom first makes it easier) and have at bedding em in. I haven't looked at the back. I will later tonight and see what it looks like. Can't be much different than on our MCS. All you do with that one is remove one of the bolts, slide it up, change the pads. The rest is the normal stuff you normally do.
__________________ http://www.sceniccityminis.net - 09 JCW-"MYSPHIT" - DS/BLK | JCW Areo & Brake Duct Kit | 30% Tint | Alta FMIC, 22mm Rear Sway | IE Fixed Camber Plates | TD Pro-Race 1.2 | TSW Springs | M7 JCW Ultimate Grill, CF Shift Knob | DoS CIA | NM Torque Arm Inserts, Charge and Discharge Pipes | 43et Kosei Racing Wheels (track setup).
On the front, I know that the two pins have to come out first. They punch out front to rear. This releases the spring (watch your face). Then the pads just lift out through the top. There are two piston compression tools available. You can find them on eBay cheaper than in stores. Antoher method is to use a small price of wood against the pistons and press so that both compress. Some folks I know use a screwdiver the leverage the wood using the rotor. The new pads slide right in. Replace the top spring and install the pins (bottom first makes it easier) and have at bedding em in. I haven't looked at the back. I will later tonight and see what it looks like. Can't be much different than on our MCS. All you do with that one is remove one of the bolts, slide it up, change the pads.
Thanks. I think I got that. What parts do you apply anti-squeal too. The entire backing plate, or just along the edges, or...? I just have the regular red CRC stuff. I'm assuming they don't need anything special besides that.
Let me know what you figure out on the rears. I see a black spring but without removing stuff don't see how it unclips.
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2011 WR Blue Subaru WRX STi 4-door
2009 JCW Chili Red/White (gone, but not forgotten) RaceTripper Photos
Good god auto correction on an iPhone sux.......corrected my previous post. Sorry.
I use a purple anti squeal (I forget the name) but put it between the back of the pad and the shims. Thus far, so far so good. I let you know what I find on the rears.
__________________ http://www.sceniccityminis.net - 09 JCW-"MYSPHIT" - DS/BLK | JCW Areo & Brake Duct Kit | 30% Tint | Alta FMIC, 22mm Rear Sway | IE Fixed Camber Plates | TD Pro-Race 1.2 | TSW Springs | M7 JCW Ultimate Grill, CF Shift Knob | DoS CIA | NM Torque Arm Inserts, Charge and Discharge Pipes | 43et Kosei Racing Wheels (track setup).
OK, I'd have to confirm it on realOEM, but from crawling under both, it's the same damn rear brake set up on the 07 MCS and the 09 JCW. Everything but the color. If that's true, there are DIY's here on NAM already. I will be able to confirm more this weekend when I pull the wheels at the track. But looking at it........it's the same. Drop a bolt, spin the caliper out, pull the pads.......
Take pictures this weekend as you do it so you can build a DIY for us. Good luck!
__________________ http://www.sceniccityminis.net - 09 JCW-"MYSPHIT" - DS/BLK | JCW Areo & Brake Duct Kit | 30% Tint | Alta FMIC, 22mm Rear Sway | IE Fixed Camber Plates | TD Pro-Race 1.2 | TSW Springs | M7 JCW Ultimate Grill, CF Shift Knob | DoS CIA | NM Torque Arm Inserts, Charge and Discharge Pipes | 43et Kosei Racing Wheels (track setup).
Found this realoem link that shows the parts detail for the JCW brakes. Also check out www.Motoringfile.com DIYs--they have a JCW brake retrofit kit DIY.
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2006 MCS PW/B, 15% pulley, JCW CAI, 22mm Alta rear sway bar, first owner---www.SooperCooperinfo.com-a very complete MINI aftermarket/DIY/information library
Found this realoem link that shows the parts detail for the JCW brakes. Also check out www.Motoringfile.com DIYs--they have a JCW brake retrofit kit DIY.
That's the R53. I have the R56 JCW. The brakes are different. The DIY I found at MotoringFile has nothing useful in it, but thanks for trying anyway.
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2011 WR Blue Subaru WRX STi 4-door
2009 JCW Chili Red/White (gone, but not forgotten) RaceTripper Photos
OK, I'd have to confirm it on realOEM, but from crawling under both, it's the same damn rear brake set up on the 07 MCS and the 09 JCW. Everything but the color. If that's true, there are DIY's here on NAM already. I will be able to confirm more this weekend when I pull the wheels at the track. But looking at it........it's the same. Drop a bolt, spin the caliper out, pull the pads.......
Take pictures this weekend as you do it so you can build a DIY for us. Good luck!
Are you saying you remove a bolt and the caliper pivots away so that you remove the pads from the hub side?
I found a rear brake DIY here on NAM, but it was for rear brakes with the more traditional spring clip you remove to separate the caliper halves. That is more like how my M3 brakes were.
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2011 WR Blue Subaru WRX STi 4-door
2009 JCW Chili Red/White (gone, but not forgotten) RaceTripper Photos
See the pic about three of four posts down? The top bolt is removed, the caliper pivots down, you slide the pads out from the shims. Some folks take both bolts out and remove the entire caliper, but I have never seen the need for that unless you are rebuilding the piston. If you don't have it already, that little square tool is a godsend...I happened to have it because my RX8 has the same rear piston setup. It just fits on the end of a socket extension. Spray a little WD40 on the piston boot and things turn much easier. Push as you turn. It's really not that bad to do. The worst part is getting the damn bolt loose that Godzilla at the factory put on.....Clear as mud???
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Originally Posted by RaceTripper
Are you saying you remove a bolt and the caliper pivots away so that you remove the pads from the hub side?
I found a rear brake DIY here on NAM, but it was for rear brakes with the more traditional spring clip you remove to separate the caliper halves. That is more like how my M3 brakes were.
__________________ http://www.sceniccityminis.net - 09 JCW-"MYSPHIT" - DS/BLK | JCW Areo & Brake Duct Kit | 30% Tint | Alta FMIC, 22mm Rear Sway | IE Fixed Camber Plates | TD Pro-Race 1.2 | TSW Springs | M7 JCW Ultimate Grill, CF Shift Knob | DoS CIA | NM Torque Arm Inserts, Charge and Discharge Pipes | 43et Kosei Racing Wheels (track setup).
I found that post earlier with the caliper bracket pivoted down, and I looked up the RealOEM parts list this morning. I think I now have a pretty good picture of how this will work. Your comments helped to pull some things together.
As for that tool. I have a HF caliper tool. I assume that should also work. I'll tackle this on Saturday. I'll be adding Carbotech XP8 to the rear and Bobcat 1521 to the front, along with a flush and bleed using ATE SB. In two weeks I'll do it again on the fronts when I install some XP10 for a track weekend.
I'll see about taking pictures and writing up a DIY.
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2011 WR Blue Subaru WRX STi 4-door
2009 JCW Chili Red/White (gone, but not forgotten) RaceTripper Photos
i have an 09 JCW factory car and can't find anyone that makes replacement pads for the front brakes i bought a set of front pads from the dealer and sent them to my brake pad guru and he checked with his sources still no luck.
Where are you getting the pads tp go in the new JCW calipers?
one last note, if you don't have the rear caliper compression tool NO NOT PROCEED.
I made that mistake on my 03 and it took 4 hours of trial and tribulation to get the pistons back into the caliper. needless to say not only was i pissed i was also stranded.
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meckonica
09 JCW Clubman
09 Cooper S Vert
I got my pads installed yesterday, and bedded them about an hour ago (early Sunday highway ramps are good for that). Carbotech XP8 on the rear and Carbotech Bobcat 1521 on the front. I have a set of Carbotech XP10 fronts ready to go for the track when I go in a couple weeks.
I used the Harbor Freight tool to compress the rear caliper. That worked great. On my mechanic's recommendation, I sprayed the rubber piston boot with WD40 before compressing the piston. That helps to prevent the boot from binding and tearing while turning the piston. I ended up removing both bolts and pulling the caliper apart -- I could not get it to pivot easily by removing just one bolt. But that didn't make it any more difficult anyway, and was easier to clean.
The fronts are really easy. Pound out the two pins -- with a mallet and pin punch -- remove the clip and pull the pads. Put the new ones in (w/antisqueal) and reinstall the clip and pins. Takes 10 mins. a pad.
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2011 WR Blue Subaru WRX STi 4-door
2009 JCW Chili Red/White (gone, but not forgotten) RaceTripper Photos
WooHoo!!! Glad it worked out!! Were the rears: remove one bolt, pivot, change pad, replace pad, bed in? Thoughts on the pads?
I had to remove both bolts. I couldn't get it to pivot.
The rear pads (XP8) dust like crazy. I think I'm only going to use them for track and put my street pads back on for regular use. Dustin (AutuXCooper) said the XP8 were about the same as OEM for dusting, but I do not agree with that assessment. I have white wheels and can tell.
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2011 WR Blue Subaru WRX STi 4-door
2009 JCW Chili Red/White (gone, but not forgotten) RaceTripper Photos
I talked to Dustin about the dusting on the rear pads. He says that will be reduced after a couple tankfuls of gas. I'll keep an eye on that.
However, with the 1521 on front and XP8 on the rear I do like the brake feel much better. They are a lot easier to modulate properly and don't have that initial bite of the OEM pads (which I think is a bit too much).
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2011 WR Blue Subaru WRX STi 4-door
2009 JCW Chili Red/White (gone, but not forgotten) RaceTripper Photos
Anyway at the track it took me maybe 15 min tops, including the fact that you have to take the brake sensor out.
My pads didn't come with the backing plate. Should I use one?
I bought the carbotech XP10's and they handled nicely at the track. Still lots of pads left. I have stock JCW pads on the rear and it worked ok, but next time I will go with xp8's.
I will take pics once I put the street ones back on. The car handled impecably. When you go, you guys will get "what did you do to that mini?" "wow, that was fast", etc. Off course it is bone stock JCW.
He didn't say anything about applying anti-squeal. I put it on the backing plates.
Also, before I remove the pads I take a pair of pliers and use them to spread the pads apart so they compress the 4 pistons. After the pads are out, if the pistons are still preventing the new ones form going in, you can use a pair of channel locks (with a cloth to protect the painted exterior) to compress them a bit more. This video shows what I mean about the pliers. It also doesn't show any application of anti-squeal. Is it not needed for the Brembos?
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2011 WR Blue Subaru WRX STi 4-door
2009 JCW Chili Red/White (gone, but not forgotten) RaceTripper Photos
My pads didn't come with the backing plate. Should I use one?
How can the pad not have a backing plate. Is has to. The pad would be permanently fixed to it. On the Brembo fronts the pins have to go through the backing plates, like in the DIY you linked.
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2011 WR Blue Subaru WRX STi 4-door
2009 JCW Chili Red/White (gone, but not forgotten) RaceTripper Photos
