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		<title>North American Motoring - Stock Problems/Issues</title>
		<link>http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums</link>
		<description>Discussions related to warranty related issues and repairs, or other problems with the OEM parts and software for MINI Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs.</description>
		<language>en</language>
		<lastBuildDate>Sat, 21 Nov 2009 04:28:48 GMT</lastBuildDate>
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		<ttl>60</ttl>
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			<title>North American Motoring - Stock Problems/Issues</title>
			<link>http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums</link>
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		<item>
			<title>Overheating Problem</title>
			<link>http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock-problems-issues/178728-overheating-problem-new-post.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 16:25:27 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[So I know there are a lot of threads on overheating (lol? :(), but I figured one more couldn't hurt.  And most lead in a different direction.

My 2005 Mini Cooper has been having a battle with overheating since I bought her in February.  First time was the serpentine belt breaking and I replaced that and filled her up.  Fine for a long while after that.  Even drove her 1000 miles to Tennessee and then 1000 miles back.  No problems whatsoever.  Then the alternator went out a couple of months...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>So I know there are a lot of threads on overheating (lol? :(), but I figured one more couldn't hurt.  And most lead in a different direction.<br />
<br />
My 2005 Mini Cooper has been having a battle with overheating since I bought her in February.  First time was the serpentine belt breaking and I replaced that and filled her up.  Fine for a long while after that.  Even drove her 1000 miles to Tennessee and then 1000 miles back.  No problems whatsoever.  Then the alternator went out a couple of months back.  I replaced that.<br />
<br />
Shortly after that, it began to overheat.  I filled it up.  It would be fine for a couple of days, maybe even a week or so and then heat up again.  I did an entire coolant flush and refilled it.  Worked for about a month I'd say.<br />
<br />
Then the two weeks ago, it reared its head again.  I replaced the thermostat, thermostat housing and gasket.  It worked for a couple of days and then two days ago it started again.<br />
<br />
It happens all the time.  First time we noticed it after the thermostat change was on the highway around 60 mph.  It went up, then came down.  Then went back up and stayed up until i pulled into a gas station.  Since this ordeal has started, I've learned to carry water.  I open the radiator fill cap and steam bursts out.  Tons of it. It also blew off the reservoir cap.  So it's now a goner (anyone know where I can get one?).  So I fill it up and take it home.  I get home, I use the bleed valves.  Refill it.  Works great yesterday morning.  Then yesterday afternoon, I'm sitting at the Dairy Queen drive thru and it starts to heat up.  I turn it off for maybe 20 seconds.  Turn it back on, and it's back at normal temp, runs fine all the way home.  Get home, reservoir is between Max and Min.  The last few times it overheated, there was water in the reservoir still.  I top it up with water, bleed the valves again.<br />
<br />
This morning, it overheats while driving, cools at a light.  Goes up while moving, cools at a light.<br />
<br />
There is also a light scraping/grinding sound for the last few weeks when slowing down and taking off.  Maybe the water pump?<br />
<br />
God I hope it's the water pump.  I can do it myself and it's certainly less expensive than a blown head gasket right?<br />
<br />
What do you guys think?  Sorry for the extremely long post.</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock-problems-issues-9/">Stock Problems/Issues</category>
			<dc:creator>mupepe</dc:creator>
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		<item>
			<title>Where is pass heated seat controller?</title>
			<link>http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock-problems-issues/178725-where-is-pass-heated-seat-controller-new-post.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 15:47:13 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>My 06 MCS vert has a problem.  The problem is, the passenger seat back heater is always on.  No matter if the console switch is on or not.  

And add to this, the AIRBAG light is also on in the dash. (not overhead)  I think theses things are related.. but Im not sure where the controller for them are.

Does anyone know where the controller box is for these?</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>My 06 MCS vert has a problem.  The problem is, the passenger seat back heater is always on.  No matter if the console switch is on or not.  <br />
<br />
And add to this, the AIRBAG light is also on in the dash. (not overhead)  I think theses things are related.. but Im not sure where the controller for them are.<br />
<br />
Does anyone know where the controller box is for these?</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock-problems-issues-9/">Stock Problems/Issues</category>
			<dc:creator>scatpack</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock-problems-issues/178725-where-is-pass-heated-seat-controller.html</guid>
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			<title>911 *** I am Freaking out</title>
			<link>http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock-problems-issues/178713-911-i-am-freaking-out-new-post.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 04:31:51 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>*I am coming home tonight from work. I notice my oil pressure running higher than normal. It does go up and down from about the half mark to the top. I get close to home and as I pull in the drive way it goes to 0.!! I checked it and no oil the stick is dry. The passenger side is soaked with oil front to back, but none on the drivers side. I jacked it up and pulled the wheel for a better look. I can see that right below the oil filter housing is what looks to be an oil cooler?? It and...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><b><font color="royalblue">I am coming home tonight from work. I notice my oil pressure running higher than normal. It does go up and down from about the half mark to the top. I get close to home and as I pull in the drive way it goes to 0.!! I checked it and no oil the stick is dry. The passenger side is soaked with oil front to back, but none on the drivers side. I jacked it up and pulled the wheel for a better look. I can see that right below the oil filter housing is what looks to be an oil cooler?? It and everything below it are covered in oil. I just cannot tell where it is pouring out of. By the way I checked the oil this morning and was full. :impatient: </font></b></div>

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			<category domain="http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock-problems-issues-9/">Stock Problems/Issues</category>
			<dc:creator>Ftgt101</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock-problems-issues/178713-911-i-am-freaking-out.html</guid>
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			<title>dent in horn badge. can you order a new one?</title>
			<link>http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock-problems-issues/178712-dent-in-horn-badge-can-you-order-a-new-one-new-post.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 02:07:52 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>bought my mini used is Sep and i checked everything on the car twice to make sure i was getting a good deal and the one thing i over look was the horn badge had a dent right in the center maybe someone honked a little too hard. car wasnt even driven that much so it didnt take long to happen had 17k on it when i bought it. it was hard to see before but now its all i see. can i even order a replacement??</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>bought my mini used is Sep and i checked everything on the car twice to make sure i was getting a good deal and the one thing i over look was the horn badge had a dent right in the center maybe someone honked a little too hard. car wasnt even driven that much so it didnt take long to happen had 17k on it when i bought it. it was hard to see before but now its all i see. can i even order a replacement??</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock-problems-issues-9/">Stock Problems/Issues</category>
			<dc:creator>WizardEyes</dc:creator>
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		<item>
			<title>Get vehicle error code w/out OBDII tool?</title>
			<link>http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock-problems-issues/178689-get-vehicle-error-code-w-out-obdii-tool-new-post.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 14:36:36 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[2005 Cooper - CVT automatic - 34K miles, 3 months out of warranty - totally stock engine :D

My 'Service Engine Soon' light came on this morning, and I'd like to determine what the code is before bringing it all the way to the dealership. I'm 'hoping' it is for the oxygen sensor... but realize it could be anything.

Is there a way - by using the key - to get the odometer to display error codes? This was possible on a 99 Dodge minivan, so I'm hoping it is something that can be done on a...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>2005 Cooper - CVT automatic - 34K miles, 3 months out of warranty - totally stock engine :D<br />
<br />
My 'Service Engine Soon' light came on this morning, and I'd like to determine what the code is before bringing it all the way to the dealership. I'm 'hoping' it is for the oxygen sensor... but realize it could be anything.<br />
<br />
Is there a way - by using the key - to get the odometer to display error codes? This was possible on a 99 Dodge minivan, so I'm hoping it is something that can be done on a MINI.<br />
<br />
Otherwise, I'll have to make a trek to a local shop to have them scan the mini.<br />
<br />
Thanks!</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock-problems-issues-9/">Stock Problems/Issues</category>
			<dc:creator>ururk</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock-problems-issues/178689-get-vehicle-error-code-w-out-obdii-tool.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Wiring Diagram help! Anyone have a copy?</title>
			<link>http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock-problems-issues/178665-wiring-diagram-help-anyone-have-a-copy-new-post.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 16:46:13 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Im in a bit of a bind, I need the wiring diagram for the pass. seat heater and airbag controller (under the seat)

Anyone have a Bentley Manual they can scan for me? I want to work on it this weekend.

Thanks in advance!</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Im in a bit of a bind, I need the wiring diagram for the pass. seat heater and airbag controller (under the seat)<br />
<br />
Anyone have a Bentley Manual they can scan for me? I want to work on it this weekend.<br />
<br />
Thanks in advance!</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock-problems-issues-9/">Stock Problems/Issues</category>
			<dc:creator>scatpack</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock-problems-issues/178665-wiring-diagram-help-anyone-have-a-copy.html</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>location of airbag module?</title>
			<link>http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock-problems-issues/178652-location-of-airbag-module-new-post.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 06:21:17 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>all, i have searched here and on google but couldnt find the location of the airbag module to plug in my air bag diagnostic and reset tool into. 

any help would be greatly appreciated.  i have safety inspection coming up and not sure if they care about the air bag light!</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>all, i have searched here and on google but couldnt find the location of the airbag module to plug in my air bag diagnostic and reset tool into. <br />
<br />
any help would be greatly appreciated.  i have safety inspection coming up and not sure if they care about the air bag light!</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock-problems-issues-9/">Stock Problems/Issues</category>
			<dc:creator>mrjasey</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock-problems-issues/178652-location-of-airbag-module.html</guid>
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			<title>100,000 mile service - Most bang for $$$?</title>
			<link>http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock-problems-issues/178626-100-000-mile-service-most-bang-for-new-post.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 17 Nov 2009 15:45:19 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[I have an appt to take my '04 MC into Global Imports (2 hours away from home) tomorrow for my 100,000 service and understandably my wallet is hyperventilating at the estimate.

Inspection 2- $484
Spark plug service -186
Fuel injector flush - 149
Brake fluid service - 100

Dropping 2 weeks pay on my MC is not the issue; if it keeps me on the road and trouble free, its worth it. Charging me $186 to change out of a set of $40 plugs and not even changing the wires (because it has coil packs,...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have an appt to take my '04 MC into Global Imports (2 hours away from home) tomorrow for my 100,000 service and understandably my wallet is hyperventilating at the estimate.<br />
<br />
Inspection 2- $484<br />
Spark plug service -186<br />
Fuel injector flush - 149<br />
Brake fluid service - 100<br />
<br />
Dropping 2 weeks pay on my MC is not the issue; if it keeps me on the road and trouble free, its worth it. Charging me $186 to change out of a set of $40 plugs and not even changing the wires (because it has coil packs, service advisor Brandon says its not necessary) is robbery!<br />
<br />
So... I'd have to go to Atlanta to get parts or order online... and I'm due an oil change. I've already decided I can change my own plugs, no biggy. But should I go ahead and let them do the inspection 2 since it includes changing the v-belt or just do an oil change and order the belt &amp; filters? Is the fuel injector flush worth it or are they just pouring a $15 bottle of fuel injector cleaner in for $149? And is the brake fluid service necessary? <br />
<br />
Sorry for such a long post, but I'd appreciate any input. And if anyone knows of a MC mechanic in Chattanooga that would be great to know.</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock-problems-issues-9/">Stock Problems/Issues</category>
			<dc:creator>KimB</dc:creator>
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			<title>valve spring compressor</title>
			<link>http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock-problems-issues/178616-valve-spring-compressor-new-post.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 17 Nov 2009 04:02:04 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>anyone know of a top mount compressor that actually works other than the dealer sold one ?  i dont want to pull the head and the auto zone pieces are well ; just that...pieces . harbor freight?  sears?:confused::confused:</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>anyone know of a top mount compressor that actually works other than the dealer sold one ?  i dont want to pull the head and the auto zone pieces are well ; just that...pieces . harbor freight?  sears?:confused::confused:</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock-problems-issues-9/">Stock Problems/Issues</category>
			<dc:creator>herbie hind</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock-problems-issues/178616-valve-spring-compressor.html</guid>
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			<title>e-brake</title>
			<link>http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock-problems-issues/178607-e-brake-new-post.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 17 Nov 2009 01:28:08 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>being that the e-brake cables run up the center tunnel ;and i can only see passenger side for sale at car part wholesale;can i assume they are interchangeable?
:sad:</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>being that the e-brake cables run up the center tunnel ;and i can only see passenger side for sale at car part wholesale;can i assume they are interchangeable?<br />
:sad:</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock-problems-issues-9/">Stock Problems/Issues</category>
			<dc:creator>herbie hind</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock-problems-issues/178607-e-brake.html</guid>
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			<title>OBD2 codes</title>
			<link>http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock-problems-issues/178605-obd2-codes-new-post.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:57:03 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>:confused: Does anyone have a list of trouble codes. I have a 2005s that is giving me a P1498 code. I have ordered the bentley service manual but would like to know what the code means ASAP. Thanks</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>:confused: Does anyone have a list of trouble codes. I have a 2005s that is giving me a P1498 code. I have ordered the bentley service manual but would like to know what the code means ASAP. Thanks</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock-problems-issues-9/">Stock Problems/Issues</category>
			<dc:creator>David Weary</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock-problems-issues/178605-obd2-codes.html</guid>
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			<title><![CDATA['Sproing!' sound at 21km/h - R53 MCS]]></title>
			<link>http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock-problems-issues/178601-sproing-sound-at-21km-h-r53-mcs-new-post.html</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 16 Nov 2009 23:20:26 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA['06 MCS with DDM Works CAI and Stratmosphere catback.
 
At approx 56,000km on the odo I began to hear a sound that can best be described as a mechanical actuator flap/butterfly opening/closing at 21km/h. No whirring or squeaking. More like a spring sound that lasts for approx 1/10th of a second.
 
Always at 21 km/h and always and only after the car has been started.
 
The sound is coming from the engine bay.
 
The sound only happens after the car has been started and first driven over 21 km/h....]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>'06 MCS with DDM Works CAI and Stratmosphere catback.<br />
 <br />
At approx 56,000km on the odo I began to hear a sound that can best be described as a mechanical actuator flap/butterfly opening/closing at 21km/h. No whirring or squeaking. More like a spring sound that lasts for approx 1/10th of a second.<br />
 <br />
Always at 21 km/h and always and only after the car has been started.<br />
 <br />
The sound is coming from the engine bay.<br />
 <br />
The sound only happens after the car has been started and first driven over 21 km/h. Once the sound has happened it never recurs until the engine is stopped, restarted and the car driven to 21 km/h. In other words, once it happens, I can drive normally and I'll never hear it again. I can stop at stop signs and then accelerate away and the sound does not recur at all. Only when I stop the car, turn off the engine, then start the engine and start driving again will the sound recur - and always at 21km/h.<br />
 <br />
It sounds like a flap or butterfly valve being opened or closed by an actuator and it always and only happens at 21 km/h and only after the engine has first been started.<br />
 <br />
Bizarre - and you know what? I hate the fact that I'm sensitive to all the sounds coming from my Mini. Makes ownership a bit of a downer. sigh.<br />
 <br />
Any ideas?</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock-problems-issues-9/">Stock Problems/Issues</category>
			<dc:creator>Random Skid</dc:creator>
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			<title>Cheaper Parts</title>
			<link>http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock-problems-issues/178574-cheaper-parts-new-post.html</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 16 Nov 2009 14:28:47 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Needed a brake master cylinder,thermostat and radiator cap.Realoem approx total was $415.00,got the lot at Napa for $275.00.</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Needed a brake master cylinder,thermostat and radiator cap.Realoem approx total was $415.00,got the lot at Napa for $275.00.</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock-problems-issues-9/">Stock Problems/Issues</category>
			<dc:creator>Bajanmini</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock-problems-issues/178574-cheaper-parts.html</guid>
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			<title>Wing Mirror Switch</title>
			<link>http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock-problems-issues/178562-wing-mirror-switch-new-post.html</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 16 Nov 2009 04:29:02 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[My '02 wing mirrors stopped functioning. I suspected a fuse (#35 in the drivers leftside kneehole panel) since neither mirror worked but it was fine. Tested for 12 volts at the mirror switch by prying up the trim, unplugging the heated seat harnesses, then the two harnesses to the mirror switch. The color code is green/red (+12) and brown (gnd) on pins 1&2 of the black connector. Tested good 12 volts when the ign switch is in pos 2 (ON, not accessory). Suspecting a bad switch and seeing my $...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>My '02 wing mirrors stopped functioning. I suspected a fuse (#35 in the drivers leftside kneehole panel) since neither mirror worked but it was fine. Tested for 12 volts at the mirror switch by prying up the trim, unplugging the heated seat harnesses, then the two harnesses to the mirror switch. The color code is green/red (+12) and brown (gnd) on pins 1&amp;2 of the black connector. Tested good 12 volts when the ign switch is in pos 2 (ON, not accessory). Suspecting a bad switch and seeing my $ fly away, I removed it (by removing the heated seat switches first (#6 torx required). The switch is NOT just a switch, of course, since this is a MINI afterall. Nope, it has 2 integrated circuits on a circuit board that also has the actual switch contacts. Thinking the worst but hoping that cleaning contacts would work, I buffed the switch contacts with metal polish. Reassembled and tested. That fixed it! Another bullet dodged. Now if I could just repair the boot latch...</div>

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			<category domain="http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock-problems-issues-9/">Stock Problems/Issues</category>
			<dc:creator>shorn</dc:creator>
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			<title>Heavy Acceleration Causes Limp Mode</title>
			<link>http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock-problems-issues/178549-heavy-acceleration-causes-limp-mode-new-post.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 15 Nov 2009 22:59:51 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I have an issue, I am going to check the codes but in the mean time thought to see if anyone has had the issue.

02 MCS - 78k

Doesnt matter which gear but if you accelerate bryond about 5k RPMs, the engine losses all power.  First time this happened, I thought made I hit the read line and it was the limiter.  I had to pull over to a complete stop and restart the engine.  Now when it happens I have learned I can throw the clutch in and turn the engine off and back on.  Not safe either but seems...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have an issue, I am going to check the codes but in the mean time thought to see if anyone has had the issue.<br />
<br />
02 MCS - 78k<br />
<br />
Doesnt matter which gear but if you accelerate bryond about 5k RPMs, the engine losses all power.  First time this happened, I thought made I hit the read line and it was the limiter.  I had to pull over to a complete stop and restart the engine.  Now when it happens I have learned I can throw the clutch in and turn the engine off and back on.  Not safe either but seems better than stopping on the freeway.<br />
<br />
It is definitely RPM related and not speed.  Under testing the exact RPM varies, from 5200-6000.  I never have issue restarting.  The Service engine light will come on and typically stay on for about 10 starts (a week or so) if I don't hit the mystical RPM!<br />
<br />
Hoping to get the codes read today to find out more.<br />
<br />
Only an other possibly related issue, occasionally when the car isn't started for a few days, it will idle rough for a few seconds, kinda sounding like an old Subaru.</div>

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