http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums Springs, struts, coilovers, sway-bars, camber plates, and all other modifications to suspension components for Cooper (R50), Cabrio (R52), and Cooper S (R53) MINIs. en Sat, 21 Nov 2009 05:25:04 GMT vBulletin 60 http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums//forums/images/misc/rss.jpg http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/suspension/178703-what-is-the-stock-ride-height-new-post.html Thu, 19 Nov 2009 21:18:07 GMT I'm getting ready to put snow tires one my lowered mini and I need to raise it back to stock ride height for winter. Does anyone know what it is front and rear? ]]> Suspension CrazyIvan http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/suspension/178703-what-is-the-stock-ride-height.html http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/suspension/178432-ie-fixed-camber-plates-longevity-new-post.html Wed, 11 Nov 2009 19:01:37 GMT Thinking about refreshing my front suspension and weighing the option of going with OEM strut plates ($70) or IE Fixed plates ($180). Like the idea of dialing in a little more camber, but don't like the idea of having to replace/overhaul on a regular basis. I have about 110k on my original plates/bearings with no issues. Can I expect as much out of the IE units? I have heard of people having some major issues with them. Anyone out there with a lot of miles on the IEs? Real world data needed. Thanks! :thumbsup: ]]> Suspension tazio http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/suspension/178432-ie-fixed-camber-plates-longevity.html http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/suspension/178398-wheel-spacer-question-new-post.html Wed, 11 Nov 2009 02:53:09 GMT If I wanted to push the stance on an r53 with stock s-lites with 205/45's what size spacer would I use. I am running about -2 camber up front and -1.5 in the rear with h-sport springs and koni yellows. Thanks for your help, Walter

:confused: ]]> Suspension wzabrouski http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/suspension/178398-wheel-spacer-question.html http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/suspension/178391-bilsteins-new-post.html Wed, 11 Nov 2009 02:19:33 GMT anyone using bilstein replacements for stock ? and if so how do you like um? anyone using bilstein replacements for stock ? and if so how do you like um? ]]> Suspension herbie hind http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/suspension/178391-bilsteins.html http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/suspension/178130-for-my-suspension-friends-hydro-unit-asc-new-post.html Wed, 04 Nov 2009 16:49:18 GMT Not directly related to suspension but affects ABS and Traction control.

A little while back BMW replaced the supercharger pulley belt. They removed the driver's side wheel speed sensor to gain better access. They never placed this sensor back into the clip connected to the uni-body. The wheel speed sensor came into contact with the crank shaft pulley and when the insulation wore away it grounded out the Hydro Unit ACS.

The photo in the link below shows the socket that plugs into the hydro unit. The following systems do not work as a result; no speedometer, no ABS or Traction control, no gas gauge, no trip odometer info, no client preferences - like when doors lock etc.

The Hydro unit costs $3,025.00 before tax and labor. And if the plug in the photo no longer works, all the warning lights and idiot lights that current look like a Christmas tree at night have to be re-wired.

I want to buy a B-52, load the mini in the bombay and drop the car on Bavarian Motor Werks front steps...just for starters.


http://i37.tinypic.com/1040y6s.jpg ]]> Suspension meb http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/suspension/178130-for-my-suspension-friends-hydro-unit-asc.html http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/suspension/178114-m7-srps-can-take-a-beating-new-post.html Wed, 04 Nov 2009 03:48:29 GMT Over the years I've sold and installed a ton of M7 Strut plates for the R50,R53. But I also have people always asking about the amount of threads on the nuts being enough. I've always said it was plenty since I've seen these plates keep cars from getting mushroomed, even on my own car. So when I recently bought a wrecked MCS to part out, I found it had a set of M7 SRPs and the pictures below will show the threads are fine, don't be concerned if they can take this, your bumps in the road are nothing.
]]> Suspension MINIGURU@WAY MOTOR WORKS http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/suspension/178114-m7-srps-can-take-a-beating.html http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/suspension/178093-speed-bump-rattle-new-post.html Tue, 03 Nov 2009 18:56:59 GMT Every time I hit the speed bumps on my block I can hear a rattle from the front end. What can this be? Every time I hit the speed bumps on my block I can hear a rattle from the front end. What can this be? ]]> Suspension PinesMini http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/suspension/178093-speed-bump-rattle.html http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/suspension/178017-spacers-with-h-and-r-coilovers-new-post.html Mon, 02 Nov 2009 00:34:26 GMT hi guys, i've just bought a set of h&r coilovers for my 02 mcs. i read somewhere a few weeks back that you need spacers for the 17" s-lite wheels to clear the springs on the coilovers. unfortunately now after about 2hrs searching and reading posts i can not find where i read this.

so i was wondering did anyone know this off the top of their head, i.e. if its true and if so, what size spacer do i need? my preference is no spacer, but i forgot all about this when i ordered the coilovers :sad: but if i do need spacers, i'd like to have them ordered and in my hands before the coilovers arrive.


cheers for your help. ]]> Suspension noss http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/suspension/178017-spacers-with-h-and-r-coilovers.html http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/suspension/177935-trying-to-determine-what-mods-my-mini-has-new-post.html Fri, 30 Oct 2009 16:02:53 GMT I recently purchased an '02 MCS from a car lot in Denver. The dealer stated that the car had the following modifications:

"Has all the available factory options and most of the accessories including: Factory stage III performance upgrade installed at Ralph Schomp, DINAN Suspension, 3 extra cup holders, extra keys, book, Mini floor mats, keyless entry with alarm, 6 CD Changer, center arm rest, tint & clear bra, front driving lights." (was also told it was the 4th ever MINI brought into the state of Colorado)

The car has a HAI w/ K&N filter on it; thats the only visible engine modification I can see. It runs strong, but not much stronger (if any) than other 02-03 MCS's I drove prior to purchasing.

The car appears to be about an inch lower than stock. It has yellow shock absorbers on the back. It handles amazingly well, and possibly rides a bit rougher than other stock MCS's I drove.

What I am trying to determine is what modifications should the car have according to the dealer notes?
-What is the factory Stage III modification?
-What is the DINAN suspension? ]]> Suspension hath27 http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/suspension/177935-trying-to-determine-what-mods-my-mini-has.html http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/suspension/177839-tsw-kw-hypercoil-onasled-setup-trackday-fun-new-post.html Wed, 28 Oct 2009 17:58:16 GMT This is a copy of a post that can be found here:
http://www.motoringalliance.com/foru...acing-tsw.html

I forgot to add it here for the suspensionphiles. So here it is, and props to TSW and Onasled!

Oh, I've updated some stuff in the street and track impressions sections.

Background
Well, this suspension thing has been a long saga for me, some of which I'll update in this thread. But the long and the short of it is that my MINI is handling like never before!

Purchase
After going back and forth about which suspension to put on my car, I finally decided on TSW's KW V2 setup with 450 lb/in front and 500 lb/in springs.

Install
Greg from Onasled Racing helped me through the decision, and given his experience setting up quick MINIs (as well as making his own custom race MINI), I thought it'd be a great idea for him to do the install and setup for the car. This was a good decision.

I dropped the car off to Greg and he began by dyno-testing the KW springs. KW must have sent a weird pair of rears, because they ended up being progressive, which is not what I was looking for.

As always, TSW's customer support was second to none. They weren't happy about the test results, and were as confused as we were. They accepted the springs back and will send them to KW for more testing. Obviously this is an exception and not a rule for these KW springs - I've seen others who have tested theirs and all is good. The lesson, though, is to test your springs/shocks before you install!

So, we got around that hurdle (time was an issue) by ordering some Hypercoils with similar spring rates. If you're interested in the dynos for the KWs and the Hypers, PM me and I can help you out.

I also purchased the Vorshlag camber plates (the ones TSW used to sell), which are beautiful pieces. It turns out that my IE adjustables had completely failed, and the only thing attaching my front suspension to the car was the weight of the car itself. Scary:eek:!

Pics
Here's a shot of the corner-balancing:


My car's "stance" before:




With my track wheels/tires (205/50 azenis on 15x7 slipstream):


Greg also had a set of used 949 Racing 15x8 6ULs on basically new 225/45 Toyo R888s. Obviously, I had to snatch those up, too. Here's a pic of basic install, before any setup:


When I picked up the car, it looked like this:


Then I put on my street wheels/tires (16in x-lites, 205/50 GSD3):



Front clearance closeup:


Rear clearance closeup:


In order to get everything to fit, we had to use a 5mm H&R spacer in the rear, and Greg had to do some shaving of the inner plastic flares. Also, to get the 949s to fit properly (for track work), Greg made some hub-centering rings out of aluminum.

Here's how the car sits on the track wheels/tires (in the Lightning paddock):






Street Impressions
The car is really freakin' low. I scrape the plastic thing that hangs down from the front on almost everything. This was to be expected, though, because prior to setup, I told Greg to set it up as best he can for the track since the car sees limited street work.

At first I was shocked at how smooth the setup was with the shocks set in the middle of their rebound setting. Then it started to wear on me a bit and the bouncing was a little tiring. The shocks/springs handled imperfections in the road well, but the new camber plates, witch put nothing between the suspension and the body except metal, make for much more noise and harshness. Hitting a pothole is rough. Good thing I never conceived this to be a decent street setup.

Update: After spending a few thousand miles with the suspension on the street, I can report that it is very bouncy. It's only bad bouncy in certain situations, but it's to the point where I'm going to stiffen the rebound to see if I can help it. At some point, though, I have to realize that this really is not a street suspension. That won't stop me from driving it, though, 'cause it's too much fun.

I'm not sure if the bounciness is from too much spring and not enough shock, or if I've just never had a suspension like this and don't know what it should feel like. TSW said the shocks are valved properly for these springs, and since Greg tested them before install, I have to assume all is copacetic with them. I'll stiffen up the rebound and report back. Well, I'll probably forget to report back.

Track Impressions
The car is completely transformed. We kept the RSB (H&R 19mm) on full stiff, and Greg aligned and corner-balanced the car.

Turn-in is instantaneous, weight transfer is much less dramatic, and it literally sticks to the road and does whatever I ask it to. It only pushed when I made stupid errors; the rule of the weekend was balanced cornering with slight oversteer (which is how I like it).

Obviously, a lot of this transformation has to do with the addition of R-comp tires. It did take me a while to actually trust them, but once I got used to the rubber and the suspension, we were flying.

My instructor, who also drives a MINI (stock suspension on Hoosiers) said at least three times: "Your car handles SO much better than mine; this car is set up perfectly; what else do you have in this thing!" hahaha I wanted him to drive it for a few laps, but it never worked out.

I can definitely see myself being comfortable on track with an even stiffer setup and with an even greater difference front to back in spring rates. I just like how that feels - it makes it more razor sharp and twitchy. Track driving is a personal thing; I like to feel everything that's going on, and I've never felt like the MINI was going to bite me in return.

There were times on track where I'd ham-hand it into a corner, and it'd plow. There were times when I'd lift a little too much and it'd come around a bit. There were times when I was too hot and it'd come around a bit. It was predictable considering what input I was giving it, and correction was intuitive and easy. The suspension has A LOT left in it - I was not getting all I could out of the car according to my instructor.

Some action shots


Entering the "lightbulb" and proceeding through it. This is a +- 80 mph banked bulb, one late apex, get to full throttle ASAP since it leads to the front straight. I was getting to +-120 on the front straight after this turn.







This last picture is at full-throttle, at the limit moving right towards the track out cone and onto the front straight. The car looks well-balanced and felt that way, too.

This full-caged M3 was a lot faster than I was!


Two MINIs and a Corvette (both MINIs were a lot quicker than the Vette):


Whoever bought the Nuzzo racecar was in my group (didn't get a chance to meet him):


Lightning is an excellent track, one I definitely prefer to NJMP's Thunderbolt. There are spots where the HP cars have the advantage, like coming out of 7 (the 90 degree left), but a smoothly-driven car that can keep its momentum is really rewarded here.

Excellent weekend put on by the NJ and DelVal CCA chapters - can't say enough about what they do for us.

And the car was incredible. I stopped counting how many people would walk by it in the paddock, look under it, examine the hood, look for the suspension, scratch their heads and then ask, "what's in this thing?!" I'd just say, "A great suspension and a magical setup :D"

mb ]]> Suspension mbcoops http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/suspension/177839-tsw-kw-hypercoil-onasled-setup-trackday-fun.html http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/suspension/177695-coilover-questions-new-post.html Mon, 26 Oct 2009 16:21:37 GMT I have done about all the engine/exhaust mods I am going to do on my car so I have been thinking about coilovers.

I do not want my car to have that slammed look but will be fine with some lowering. I have a couple of herniated disk so ride quality is something that is important to me. I do not track my car but it is not out of the question, 95% percent of my driving is "spirited" city driving. Any suggestions?

Do I need coilovers that are adjustable? Does adjustable mean you can change how low you can make the car?

I have looked at the MCS coilover reference thread but I would still like some guidance before I buy them, any tips, experiences good or bad would be greatly appreciated. :thumbsup: ]]> Suspension mdbsat http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/suspension/177695-coilover-questions.html http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/suspension/177684-100-000-miles-with-the-webb-rear-sawy-bar-new-post.html Mon, 26 Oct 2009 12:35:17 GMT The Webb bar has been a companion for quite some time and although it works well my inner voice - it actually screamed out loud a few times - persuaded me to remove the bar for good this past weekend. Personally this is not a bar for the street...for the kind of streets I drive on. A portion of some of the highways I drive on have been under construction for 4 years. As such, the constant pounding caused the shaft collars to slide and this allows the torque tube to move around causing all... The Webb bar has been a companion for quite some time and although it works well my inner voice - it actually screamed out loud a few times - persuaded me to remove the bar for good this past weekend.

Personally this is not a bar for the street...for the kind of streets I drive on. A portion of some of the highways I drive on have been under construction for 4 years. As such, the constant pounding caused the shaft collars to slide and this allows the torque tube to move around causing all sorts of unwanted motions. I've goine thru a few sets of shaft collars as well.

In the above I cannot really find fault with the bar but the fact that the splines on each side of the torque tube are not lined up is annoying and this just shouldn't be. Yes, we can over come this with adjustable endlinks - what if we don't use them??? My bar did not come with adjustable endlinks for example and this made initial setups impossible.

The bushings are also an area of frustration because the the mini's sub frame is not a perfect piece of engineering. As such the torque tube centerline axis never lines up with the centerline of the bushings causing a lot of bind in the torque tube. This places a lot of strain on the bushing material and the bolts holding the bushing retainer/carrier in place. And because these two components bind, the bushing carriers need to be removed if the torque tube is removed.

I think this is a great bar for the track...with a little refinement. I also understand that all mini sub frames are a wee bit different; some allow a perfect alignment of torque tube and bushing and some do not. The new bushing carrier design did not help in my case; the carriers need to posses a left right adjustment as well.

In terms of making adjustments to bar settings in the field...very easy...but the unequal splines pre twist the torque tube and this will make final adjustments tricky and inaccurate.

I am running bar less at the moment...I'll add a stock bar or something a little bigger. ]]> Suspension meb http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/suspension/177684-100-000-miles-with-the-webb-rear-sawy-bar.html http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/suspension/177641-cross-users-new-post.html Sun, 25 Oct 2009 17:20:50 GMT I tried to lower my front end down today because the new stiffer swift springs keeps the front end up a bit higher. I found out that I was pretty close to being all the way down as is.

Here is a photo of it "all the way down" - is it possible I have a longer body absorber than the standard setup? I got mine from RMW and the springs were also lower spring rate than the standard setup.



It looks like it is setup to use a much longer spring? ]]> Suspension M3NTAL http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/suspension/177641-cross-users.html http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/suspension/177618-winter-swaybar-settings-new-post.html Sun, 25 Oct 2009 00:58:25 GMT I may be buying a Sway-bar in the next few days.....I may wait till spring though. I was thinking....if I install it before winter hits, should I set it at a softer setting during the winter to make driving in snow safer, and then set it to a tighter setting come spring? I may be buying a Sway-bar in the next few days.....I may wait till spring though.
I was thinking....if I install it before winter hits, should I set it at a softer setting during the winter to make driving in snow safer, and then set it to a tighter setting come spring? ]]> Suspension ZippyNH http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/suspension/177618-winter-swaybar-settings.html http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/suspension/177542-complete-new-suspension-new-post.html Fri, 23 Oct 2009 05:04:30 GMT I just finished installing about as complete suspension as possible and wanted to share: Every possible Powerflex bushing ( got the front control arm bushings pre installed from WAY) Front camber plates from h-sport All 4 rear control arms from Texas speed works Koni Sport suspension kit new lower ball joints already have Webb extreme rear sway bar Love the feel and results. very tight and responsive. acceptable NHV and the Ride is still great. I just finished installing about as complete suspension as possible and wanted to share:
Every possible Powerflex bushing ( got the front control arm bushings pre installed from WAY)
Front camber plates from h-sport
All 4 rear control arms from Texas speed works
Koni Sport suspension kit
new lower ball joints

already have Webb extreme rear sway bar

Love the feel and results. very tight and responsive. acceptable NHV and the Ride is still great.
Have a small adjustment to do to the drivers side to allow for more camber adjustment. currently max settings is -1.6 degrees (would like to see 2 degrees) ]]> Suspension MINICHEF http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/suspension/177542-complete-new-suspension.html