Electrical LED rally lights wiring question
#1
LED rally lights wiring question
I installed the auxiliary/additional LED headlights to the grill of my 2016 F56 JCW last week to help with the dark nights I experience in my area of New York. The idea was that I would be able to use my regular headlights and the rally lights at the same time without having to use my high beams (read: blind other drivers). What I found was that the rally lights only operate with the high beams on which I believe hampers its usability.
Does anyone know of some way to change the wiring or coding to allow the rally lights to to be used at any time, not just when the high beams are on?
Lets please skip the discussion of the possible legality of this move due to obscure laws in certain states.
Thank you!
Does anyone know of some way to change the wiring or coding to allow the rally lights to to be used at any time, not just when the high beams are on?
Lets please skip the discussion of the possible legality of this move due to obscure laws in certain states.
Thank you!
#2
I Own a 2015 R61 S All4 and have the Halogen version and would like the same question answered. As of the Blinding issue - just as with the HighBeam having to be turned off for on coming traffic alone. you would think its worst with rally and HighBeam together. so it makes more sense to have the option to use the Rally independent. The Fogs Cut off when you turn on HighBeam.
#3
too bad you din't ask b4 you paid for and installed the factory kit .... if you want the lights to work this way you want the simplest wiring possible ... and that ain't the MINI way
your best path is to ditch all the fancy MINI wiring (all there to make the lights 50 state legal) and go get some wire, a simple accessory relay, an inline fuse (you could salvage this from the factory stuff) and a simple switch (toggle, rocker, button ... it don't matter, you might be able to salvage the kit' switch ... but I believe it is a momentary contact and will not hold the position so then no ...) and rewire the lights to a simple switch (often sold as a kit for under $20)
in GEN1 it was easy to identify which wire was connecting to the high beam trigger which controlled the 'fancy stuff' and locked the lights to the high beams .... not so today ... at least I can't figure it out with a quick look at the install diagrams (nothing is labeled as to purpose ... only pin number) The kit ties into the main control computer now so good luck!
your best path is to ditch all the fancy MINI wiring (all there to make the lights 50 state legal) and go get some wire, a simple accessory relay, an inline fuse (you could salvage this from the factory stuff) and a simple switch (toggle, rocker, button ... it don't matter, you might be able to salvage the kit' switch ... but I believe it is a momentary contact and will not hold the position so then no ...) and rewire the lights to a simple switch (often sold as a kit for under $20)
in GEN1 it was easy to identify which wire was connecting to the high beam trigger which controlled the 'fancy stuff' and locked the lights to the high beams .... not so today ... at least I can't figure it out with a quick look at the install diagrams (nothing is labeled as to purpose ... only pin number) The kit ties into the main control computer now so good luck!
#4
too bad you din't ask b4 you paid for and installed the factory kit .... if you want the lights to work this way you want the simplest wiring possible ... and that ain't the MINI way
your best path is to ditch all the fancy MINI wiring (all there to make the lights 50 state legal) and go get some wire, a simple accessory relay, an inline fuse (you could salvage this from the factory stuff) and a simple switch (toggle, rocker, button ... it don't matter, you might be able to salvage the kit' switch ... but I believe it is a momentary contact and will not hold the position so then no ...) and rewire the lights to a simple switch (often sold as a kit for under $20)
in GEN1 it was easy to identify which wire was connecting to the high beam trigger which controlled the 'fancy stuff' and locked the lights to the high beams .... not so today ... at least I can't figure it out with a quick look at the install diagrams (nothing is labeled as to purpose ... only pin number) The kit ties into the main control computer now so good luck!
your best path is to ditch all the fancy MINI wiring (all there to make the lights 50 state legal) and go get some wire, a simple accessory relay, an inline fuse (you could salvage this from the factory stuff) and a simple switch (toggle, rocker, button ... it don't matter, you might be able to salvage the kit' switch ... but I believe it is a momentary contact and will not hold the position so then no ...) and rewire the lights to a simple switch (often sold as a kit for under $20)
in GEN1 it was easy to identify which wire was connecting to the high beam trigger which controlled the 'fancy stuff' and locked the lights to the high beams .... not so today ... at least I can't figure it out with a quick look at the install diagrams (nothing is labeled as to purpose ... only pin number) The kit ties into the main control computer now so good luck!
#5
you would think its worst with rally and HighBeam together. so it makes more sense to have the option to use the Rally independent. The Fogs Cut off when you turn on HighBeam.
the purpose of driving lights is to illuminate farther down the road .... super high beams .... different from the purpose of fog lights ...
in the factory set up, and the 'proper install' for every kit I've seen of aftermarket DLs, the Driving Lights are tied to the high beams and can only come on when high beams are on.
AND being tied together, when you use your driving wheel stalk to lower your highs for oncoming traffic, the driving lights go down as well ..... highly desirable IMO else you are reaching for a second switch to do this manually ..... (MINI adds to this requirement by making the system require a manual reset everytime the car is shut off ..... this is part of the reason the wiring gets SO complicated)
FOGs are a different thing ... fogs would (should) NEVER be used with high beams .... the intention of fogs is to illuminate BELOW the fog .... find the road! This is why FOGs are mounted low and DLs high.
***************
so long as I've crossed the line to editorial comment which OP banned .....
I don't know about NY but in some states that have required annual safety inspections, wiring the DLs to a simple switch fails inspection .... I've seen reports of this happening in NJ ..... no experience myself as I've only installed for others ... never my car.
the purpose of driving lights is to illuminate farther down the road .... super high beams .... different from the purpose of fog lights ...
in the factory set up, and the 'proper install' for every kit I've seen of aftermarket DLs, the Driving Lights are tied to the high beams and can only come on when high beams are on.
AND being tied together, when you use your driving wheel stalk to lower your highs for oncoming traffic, the driving lights go down as well ..... highly desirable IMO else you are reaching for a second switch to do this manually ..... (MINI adds to this requirement by making the system require a manual reset everytime the car is shut off ..... this is part of the reason the wiring gets SO complicated)
FOGs are a different thing ... fogs would (should) NEVER be used with high beams .... the intention of fogs is to illuminate BELOW the fog .... find the road! This is why FOGs are mounted low and DLs high.
***************
so long as I've crossed the line to editorial comment which OP banned .....
I don't know about NY but in some states that have required annual safety inspections, wiring the DLs to a simple switch fails inspection .... I've seen reports of this happening in NJ ..... no experience myself as I've only installed for others ... never my car.
Last edited by Capt_bj; 12-08-2016 at 03:01 PM.
#6
I tried wiring my LED light bars into a second relay controlled by the high beams. I can't seem to find the high beam controlled power source. The wires going into the LED headlights don't show a voltage difference on high beams. I think there is a chip in headlights that controll it. I.e. I want to turn on my LED driving lights to only work with the rear fogs on JCW and then also be controlled to operate only with high beams. I just can't find high beam controlled only power source. Any thoughts.