Oh nooo... I had same issue with my clubman S. The solution is way cheaper than this. I suggest going to ebay and try to match the part numbers with a good used FRM. If you cannot match number, tuen try to match options like HD lights, or convertable top, etc... the module doesnt need to be programmed to your car for it to work. I might be able to help if you send me a pic of the module and the options you have on the car :-)

 

Here is a link of a picture of the FRM module.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/oq32bllnk...2m7Beiyza?dl=0

My car is pretty basic.
2011 R56 Last 7 of vin TY24737
Manual Hvac
radio
No sunroof
Windows up and down auto (don't know if this make a difference or it just standard)
Rear/front Fog lights (only thing i see as optional)
Self leveling Headlights (factory HID)
The ambient lighting (switch that makes light turn different colors inside the car)

My biggest problem is that i live in the city and need to park my car in the street and my windows are down. I was going to attach a 12v to the motors, but scared it will blow something else up. Used to USDM/JDM cars which are more simple and not so sensitive, But if i can get my windows to go up, I would be and can take my time to research or something.

I looked on read OEM and don't really understand What they mean by
"Exchangeable retrospectively"
"nonexchangeable retrospectively"
"Bilaterally exchangeable"

 

Ok, I'll look that up for you tomorrow. You can directly feed the windows motors. I tried that on a 2013 flooded base cooper and was able to role them up. Once you role them up, keep the motor disconnected so they wont go down via the open door step down or something of that nature. Realoem tells you the exachangeability in part parts, but the options installed may be different. So you have to look at options vs part number in a way. Also, if you know how to use NCS expert, you may then add your options to the module.

Are you anywhere near philly PA?

 

Im like 2 hr away, but a trip over there today would be worth it. I dont know how to use the program but i do have it.

I found one close to me FRM in edison NJ.

 

I just saw the other picture in the dropbox. the part number does not match.

check this link:
http://www.car-part.com/cgi-bin/sear...ey=&userPage=4

and you will see this guy (Jim's Import Auto Salvage USA-FL(Sebring) Request_Quote 1-800-447-4707) he has a price and a phone number. call him and work a deal with him. if not, the whole thing will cost you 125 with shipping. make sure you match the numbers.

In general, the website car-parts.com has been my parts warehouse. sometime better than ebay.

 

VO list on the "new" FRM module MUST match the VO list on the CAS module.
If not, you can get unexpected behaviors.

 

Bunch of thanks to MiniToBe. He had a FRM not the same as my cars model number, but it worked. He programmed and incoded with VIN. Everything is working like it was before.

If it stops working or something doesn't work (i for got to test), Ill be back here to let you guys know, but everything is working with no problem.

MiniToBe said it came off a Clubman not even a hardtop. I still ordered the one from the Jims in Fl just to have a spare in case it happens again.

miniuy why do you think it wouldn't work? or maybe it worked with no problem because i have a basic mini cooper S with no sunroof and no folding mirrors and stuff?

 

Glad to help my friend. Let me know if you want to program/code the other modules or need help with that.

 

No, I don't. It could work perfectly!

FRM VO is the CAS VO backup.
It must be the same info in both.

 

I am experiencing the same symptoms on my out of warranty 2012 Countryman Manual Base model.

I have the NAV and connected package. Just a few days ago the head until rebooted while I was driving. Then it started rebooting it more frequently the next day. Then today it says I have a light malfunction and to stop the car.
Blinkers aren't turning on, high beam is not turning on, front windows don't open. Rear windows work fine.

I unplugged the module and it looks brand new. Not even any dust in it. Put it back in and exactly the same problem. My brake lights do work. So I can use the car as is for now. Main hazard is no turn signals.
Strange since the module looks brand new, as if it just came out the factory. And the wiring harness also looks in perfect shape.

Unfortunately I have no way of checking if it's bricked or not since I don't have the correct tools.

Anyone selling this module? It says R56 on mine even though I have a R60.
Would also love to know what tools are needed to program and test it? Would like to learn it.
I'm an IT engineer and computer programmer professionally. These things interest me.

 

It seems that this FRM goes out unannounced. Try matching the numbers as I told "HaveATank". Also check the website I gave him for parts. There are three programs that you may need to use.
1- Winkfp to program the VIN
2- NCSexpert to code the module with the correct options.
3-ISTA/P advanced for doing both coding and programming.
All of the options above need the sp-datens. These are program files used to "install" software into the modules.
What the part number of your module? What are the options you have? What are the programming tools you have?

 

I have a EvZ Interface USB OBD2 OBD II for BMW - INPA/ Ediabas - K+ DCAN cable with the BMW basic toolset installed on the laptop.

I have the full technology package with the upgraded Harmon Kardon stereo system, sun roof, Connected with NAVI.

Here is a picture of my module

 

When you plug INPA, can you see the FRM in the UIF tab?

 

I will give this a try when I get home. Currently at work and don't have any of the tools with me.


Hey thanks so much for your help with this!!

 

No problem my friend. By the way, your windows dont work either right?

 

MiniToBe,
Only my front windows don't work. My rear windows work just fine and so does my sunroof. My hazards don't work as well.

Forgot to mention I also have ISTA/D Rheingold. If that can help any.

 

ISTA/D is good for Diagnosis hence the "D". ISTA/P is good for Programming and coding. Do you know if the you have the "SP-Daten" files?

 

That makes sense - haha . Its a learning process for me.
I have the files v50.2.
My friend has the ISTA/P software which he would let me load on my computer. Do you think its worth it?

 

The ISTA/P is Tricky but it is worth having. You need to get more updated files.

 

Do you know which version sp-daten files I should get for my R60?
My car has not been updated since I got it in 2012. The dealerships near me want an arm and a leg plus all your savings to do anything.


Scratch that- I found v.58.1 SP-Daten. Is this recent?

 

Someone was able to get V3.58.1 and the files are dated 2016...the one I have i think is 57.

 

Alex PM me your email address.

 

PM sent.
I was actually able to obtain the V3.58.1 SP-Daten.
Now I just need to see after I connect to INPA if I can see the FRM in the UIF tab.

I really think it just needs to be reset and is not bricked (I hope so!!). I recently (about 5 months ago) installed a new battery. I let them do it at the store (advanced auto) and when I checked after this all started happening the positive cable was loose enough to move by hand. It seems likely this could have caused a variation in voltage and after the set amount of shorts (50 I think) the FRM went into its safe mode.

This is what I think at least.

So now at this point I will see if I can connect to the FRM at all, and from there see if I can get it out of safe mode and update the SP-Daten.


Another noobie question. Will I notice any difference with the newest SP-Daten?

 

I would just like to add that although this sucks that my car is disabled, it has been a great learning process for me. And is very valuable knowledge going forward.
Thanks MiniToBe for all your help with this. People like you are what make forums like these worth it all.

 

The only difference is the that files are up to date :-D . you may access the files in Notepad but you wont be able to understand the characters and neither did I

I think once the FRM is dead, it is dead. I dont think there is a safe mode in the module. But to be on the safe side, try disconnecting it and reconnecting it with or with out the battery being disconnected. When me and HaveATank did his, we did it with the battery connected. It did not make any difference and using INPA, we were not able to see it either.
when you connect INPA to your car, please send us a picture of the UIF or PM it to me if you want.