Electrical R53 NCS Expert Guide Additional Info
#26
#29
#30
#32
No, I got the one that doesn't support the R56 and up.. Worked fine, and it was only $35 shipped.
Specifically, this one: link
Took FOREVER to get here though.. Must have swam it over from Romania..
Specifically, this one: link
Took FOREVER to get here though.. Must have swam it over from Romania..
sc
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#33
You do not need a cable with BMW in the title. It only affects the price, not the product. EBay for the following search term USB (Obd, obd2, obdii) (kkl, Vagcom, INPA, 409.1). Sort by lowest price with shipping. You should get one for about $10. You will need to open it up and short pin 7 to pin 8.
#35
does the NCSExpert have any functions for the sunroof?
i had an idea that has come to a slight halt because of power issues. I have various circuits that I have purchased that will 1. sense temperature and activate a relay or similar, and 2. sense rain and close a relay for a given amount of time.
i wanted to have the sunroof open when the interior of the car got "hot" (say, 100 degrees) and stay open. The 2nd sensor would watch for rain / moisture. once sensed, it would then Close the sunroof to keep the car from being soaked.
problem is, the sunroof seems to be controlled by one of the computer systems in the mini, and i am afraid to go applying power *****-nilly to get the sunroof motor to function as needed for this concept. so far, my only other work-around is to use the door lock mechanism to close the sunroof, and possibly a spare key fob to open it.
i had an idea that has come to a slight halt because of power issues. I have various circuits that I have purchased that will 1. sense temperature and activate a relay or similar, and 2. sense rain and close a relay for a given amount of time.
i wanted to have the sunroof open when the interior of the car got "hot" (say, 100 degrees) and stay open. The 2nd sensor would watch for rain / moisture. once sensed, it would then Close the sunroof to keep the car from being soaked.
problem is, the sunroof seems to be controlled by one of the computer systems in the mini, and i am afraid to go applying power *****-nilly to get the sunroof motor to function as needed for this concept. so far, my only other work-around is to use the door lock mechanism to close the sunroof, and possibly a spare key fob to open it.
Enable comfort opening and open all the windows a you approach. Close the sunroof if it looks like rain.
#36
The systems you want to use are all in deep sleep 60s after the last iBus activity to prevent battery drain. You would need an aftermarket device to wake up and probe the sensors and activate the devices.
Enable comfort opening and open all the windows a you approach. Close the sunroof if it looks like rain.
Enable comfort opening and open all the windows a you approach. Close the sunroof if it looks like rain.
I'm in FL. So, opening up while I walk towards the car will help, but only a little. As for rain, well, it can rain here at a moments notice... And it's a little hard to close the car up while your inside your office, and usually too late to do while your sprinting towards the car as its pouring *** rain inside tHe car!
#37
#38
#39
If you still need a cable, I have a buddy looking to sell his. I'll have him PM you.
#40
#41
Much like most coding I was going to fine-tune a few features out of preference, although not necessarily all n one coding session.
+Disable the 'Wait For Windows when lowering" that makes the total time for the roof to operate longer than it needs to be
+Disable the "Pause at sunroof position" when closing
+Investigate any one-touch support that might be lurking
+Investigate the speed lockout value
+Try to improve the limited number of DE->EN translations in NCS Dummy
I haven't looked at it since I last attempted to code since it threw a nasty sounding error with the KOMBI central coding key no longer being correct.
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...-error-message
http://www.bmwcoding.com/showthread....3736#post53736
+Disable the 'Wait For Windows when lowering" that makes the total time for the roof to operate longer than it needs to be
+Disable the "Pause at sunroof position" when closing
+Investigate any one-touch support that might be lurking
+Investigate the speed lockout value
+Try to improve the limited number of DE->EN translations in NCS Dummy
I haven't looked at it since I last attempted to code since it threw a nasty sounding error with the KOMBI central coding key no longer being correct.
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...-error-message
http://www.bmwcoding.com/showthread....3736#post53736
#42
Sorry if it's already been mentioned, but is there a place that can get cables shipped to the US in a relatively timely manner? I'm a bit leery of buying something from overseas, especially if there's a chance the cable won't work. I'd like to start hackin' away too...
Also, you know you can message sellers (even international sellers) and ask them if they offer expedited shipping. I don't remember the last time I waited 3 weeks for a package
From order to delivery I can have an item in 3-4 days.
Much like most coding I was going to fine-tune a few features out of preference, although not necessarily all n one coding session.
+Disable the 'Wait For Windows when lowering" that makes the total time for the roof to operate longer than it needs to be
+Disable the "Pause at sunroof position" when closing
+Investigate any one-touch support that might be lurking
+Investigate the speed lockout value
+Try to improve the limited number of DE->EN translations in NCS Dummy
I haven't looked at it since I last attempted to code since it threw a nasty sounding error with the KOMBI central coding key no longer being correct.
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...-error-message
http://www.bmwcoding.com/showthread....3736#post53736
+Disable the 'Wait For Windows when lowering" that makes the total time for the roof to operate longer than it needs to be
+Disable the "Pause at sunroof position" when closing
+Investigate any one-touch support that might be lurking
+Investigate the speed lockout value
+Try to improve the limited number of DE->EN translations in NCS Dummy
I haven't looked at it since I last attempted to code since it threw a nasty sounding error with the KOMBI central coding key no longer being correct.
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...-error-message
http://www.bmwcoding.com/showthread....3736#post53736
#43
When you say RESET you mean to do a deep sleep, a power cycle or restore to factory coding or something else?
#44
No, I got the one that doesn't support the R56 and up.. Worked fine, and it was only $35 shipped.
Specifically, this one: link
Took FOREVER to get here though.. Must have swam it over from Romania..
Specifically, this one: link
Took FOREVER to get here though.. Must have swam it over from Romania..
Also, if you don't mind my asking, did you install the software from the dvd that comes with the cable? Or did you acquire it elsewhere? Many of the links I have come across for download don't work. It would be nice to know that the cable you link to works, and that its software, properly installed, will also work.
Just trying not to reinvent the wheel here...
#45
Well, it may be too late, but did you insure you had the correct Com port? My cheap cable from a large Communist Asian country worked great out of the box; the software on the supplied dvd did not. I could be wrong, but what I gather from these posts is that linking pins 7&8 is required on an otherwise run-of-the-mill OBD2 cable. I got an EDIABAS-specific cable.
#46
Well, it may be too late, but did you insure you had the correct Com port? My cheap cable from a large Communist Asian country worked great out of the box; the software on the supplied dvd did not. I could be wrong, but what I gather from these posts is that linking pins 7&8 is required on an otherwise run-of-the-mill OBD2 cable. I got an EDIABAS-specific cable.
I do remember during the install taking note of the comm port and changing its latency from 16 to 1--something like that. But one reason I don't mind waiting for a while is to take a breather and then to reinstall carefully the software. Okay, that's 2 reasons.
#47
Okay, so after reading these posts for about an hour and a half now, I would like to have some clarification from someone (Pretty please?) On a few things...
1. The software will only work with windows XP and is provided from the Bimmer Forums?
2. A cable such as this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-Cable-Auto-Diagnostic-Tool-Scanner-for-VW-Audi-Seat-VAG-KKL-409-1-OBDII-OBD2-/130869266949?pt=US_Adapters&hash=item1e786a8a05 Would work fine so long as I spliced pin 7 and 8 together?
3. Which are Pins 7 and 8?
4. My 2006 R53 JCW has an onboard computer that is actually deactivated so it only shows my current speed and the temperature?
Thanks guys, it's 5:39 AM and my eyes are killing me here...
Any help is much appreciated.
1. The software will only work with windows XP and is provided from the Bimmer Forums?
2. A cable such as this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-Cable-Auto-Diagnostic-Tool-Scanner-for-VW-Audi-Seat-VAG-KKL-409-1-OBDII-OBD2-/130869266949?pt=US_Adapters&hash=item1e786a8a05 Would work fine so long as I spliced pin 7 and 8 together?
3. Which are Pins 7 and 8?
4. My 2006 R53 JCW has an onboard computer that is actually deactivated so it only shows my current speed and the temperature?
Thanks guys, it's 5:39 AM and my eyes are killing me here...
Any help is much appreciated.
#48
1) INPA will run on XP, Vista and W7. Dunno about W8; I don't have it.
INPA is the 'laboratory' software the engineers used for R&D, it's more powerful and informative, but less fancy looking.
DIS is the more pretty dealer software. It's also much harder to install. I think it needs XP and specific versions of the tools to work. the benefits are you can do retrofits with a more obvious interface.
2) Correct, thanks for taking the time to do your homework! Open up the blue thing, find pins 7 & 8 and short them together. That is the exact setup I use.
3)
4) Correct. You would use NCS expert that installed with the INPA suite to change that coding to enable those missing features.
INPA is the 'laboratory' software the engineers used for R&D, it's more powerful and informative, but less fancy looking.
DIS is the more pretty dealer software. It's also much harder to install. I think it needs XP and specific versions of the tools to work. the benefits are you can do retrofits with a more obvious interface.
2) Correct, thanks for taking the time to do your homework! Open up the blue thing, find pins 7 & 8 and short them together. That is the exact setup I use.
3)
4) Correct. You would use NCS expert that installed with the INPA suite to change that coding to enable those missing features.
#49
1) INPA will run on XP, Vista and W7. Dunno about W8; I don't have it.
INPA is the 'laboratory' software the engineers used for R&D, it's more powerful and informative, but less fancy looking.
DIS is the more pretty dealer software. It's also much harder to install. I think it needs XP and specific versions of the tools to work. the benefits are you can do retrofits with a more obvious interface.
INPA is the 'laboratory' software the engineers used for R&D, it's more powerful and informative, but less fancy looking.
DIS is the more pretty dealer software. It's also much harder to install. I think it needs XP and specific versions of the tools to work. the benefits are you can do retrofits with a more obvious interface.
I'm probably going to order the cable today, download and install INPA tonight and start going over it so that way whenever the cable gets here, it's just plug and play.
ALSO (sorry for the repeats in information, just don't want to muck anything up) for jumping pins 7 and 8, I can just use any old wiring right?
This is my first electronics project on Claire besides installing an AUX cable through the rear fog light switch panel......of which I screwed up.....
Thanks again!
#50
For the W7 install you should have no issues. You may need to right click and Run As Administrator on the Setup programme, a quick google will confirm. I installed it on mine OK.
For the pin 7&8 bridge, the pins are neighbors, you short them with a soldered link. The risk you face as a rookie is that the plastic gets so hot that it melts and the pins lose their alignment. You can mitigate either by using some needle nose pliers to carefully bend pin 8 to touch pin 7 before soldering, or by using a small amount of wire between pins 7 & 8 to solder to.
For the pin 7&8 bridge, the pins are neighbors, you short them with a soldered link. The risk you face as a rookie is that the plastic gets so hot that it melts and the pins lose their alignment. You can mitigate either by using some needle nose pliers to carefully bend pin 8 to touch pin 7 before soldering, or by using a small amount of wire between pins 7 & 8 to solder to.