Hi folks,

first post. New Car (3 months) pretty much stock except for aftermarket stainless exhaust. My GF's 2005 mini cooper failed the smog inspection in NY because they were unable to connect to the vehicle diagnostic port. Autozone also could not connect their OBD II scanner - it just sits at "trying to connect". Dug out my multimeter and checked the common power pin (pin 16) on the OBD II port under the steering wheel and verified no power.

Step two was to check the fuses. Checked all the fuses under the hood and in the driver's side footwell panel - all are good. Some people have suggested the OBD port is connected to the same fuse as the cig lighter. I noticed the ring around the cig lighter doesn't light (maybe dead bulb) but the lighter gets hot (providing I keep it pressed down - it doesn't go down and stay on its own).

I don't have a Bentley manual for the car yet, so I was wondering if
1) you can suggest anything I might be missing
2) tell me anything about the "data link connector" electrical wiring diagram for this car that would indicate why it isn't getting power.

Long shot - would the previous owner have disconnected the OBD system to run a cat-back exhaust? No right? Because the Oxygen sensors are still on the cats and he wouldn't have to worry about them throwing check-engine codes.

Any help is appreciated. Thanks in advance.

 

The wiring diagram shows pin 16 connected almost directly to fuse F3 (5 amp). The path just goes through one intermediate connector along the way, near the fuse box.

Look here for wiring diagrams: http://www.bmw-planet.com/diagrams/release/en/index.htm

 

Thanks for the help with the link to the online WDS!

Thinking out loud... the 2005 cooper is an R50, and it was built in 12/2004 according to the door sticker. From what I gather, R50 coopers from 2001-2005 have engine code W10. I found the OBD connector X19527 under Body-> Bus-> Diagnostic Bus -> D Bus.

Looks like fuse F3 runs to connector X15, and then from pin 22 on X15 on to the OBD port pin 16. The wire color listed is RT/BL/GE, but these are German color codes. I'm pretty sure RT is red, BL is blue, and GE is yellow, but how does a wire have three colors (solid with two stripes???).

First order of business is I'm going to double check voltage at pin 16 using the door or some other known earth ground besides pin 4 or 5 on the OBD plug, to make sure that 16 really is dead, and not that the pin 4 or 5 is a faulty ground.

If there isn't any power at pin 16, I'll check for power on fuse F3, and see if I'm getting juice at the fuse box. If that looks good, I'll move along to connector X15. It looks like from this post connector X15 is behind some trim down in the driver's foot well. I'm going to see if I can get at it, but I haven't taken apart any panels in this car yet, so any help to save me some time would be appreciated.

If I still have problems, I'll be sure to report back. Otherwise I may post a solution tomorrow. Thanks again for the help.

 

Did you ever get this problem fix? I am having the same problem with my 2004 RHD Mini Cooper.It was flooded in 2004 with 1000 miles , now after almost 6 years I too it from my sister's mechanic.They could not get it started with the changes they made with Immobilizer, Ecu , Tach, and Speedo unit they buy.

 

Unfortunately I haven't fixed the problem, but not because my intended solution didn't work, just because I haven't had time to monkey around with it. My girlfriend hasn't had time to bring the car by for me to work on, and we live about 3 hours away from each other. When we do see each other I haven't been inclined to get my wrenches out.

I was able to hook up a multimeter between the power pin on the OBD port, and a chassis ground... no juice. I checked all the fuses, but none were blown. So my next step was to test the connector behind the driver's side footwell panel, but I never got the panel off to examine the connector. If there is power coming out of the fuse box, and no power at the obd port, that connector is a likely fault.

She paid a shady mechanic to pass her car and get the inspection sticker on. I hope to tackle the project this spring/summer if I have some time.

 

I took everything out the car.I was wondering to buy a wire harness from the States but my car is right hand drive, not sure if it will work out

 

I wouldn't imagine a wiring harness for a left hand drive car would fit a right hand drive model.

Good luck troubleshooting the electronics.

 

Has anybody else had this problem?

Im waiting to call up Peake to talk to them and see what they think

I have done the battery disconnect and remove all the power stored in the car all around. Checked all fuses and they are all good to go(prob going to go crazy and buy tons of new fuses and just replace everything because im that way plus new battery)

I have not been able to do the connector to test for signal or any power actually going through as i do not have a meter to do so.

Im deffinitly needing this to be read to see what kind of codes are there if any
The power steering is making noises but nothing to crazy just the fan. I will be adding the delete peice i ordered from condor on sunday hopefully if i can really get down with it (no rain im hoping)

Know this is a dead thread but really this is important have yet to find answers at all

 

Had this happen on my 2003.

You need to remove the kick panel cover on the drivers side where the fuse box is located. The main connector that feeds to ODB(forget the x#) generally is corroded and causes multiple electrical issues. It gets wet with water/snow build up on the driver side floor -- some idiot designed this location for electrical connector.
Open the connector and you will likely find corrosion on the pins--try cleaning it. Depending on how far gone it is--it may require some rewiring of the connector and replacement of the pins.

Easiest fix for ODB is to run a new power wire to the ODB plug (either from the feed side of the above connector or from somewhere else in the car).

 

Before I break the connector, is there an easy way to get it apart??

 

This is easy after you do it once..but may be a little confusing in description. Easier if you pull the whole connector down--you will need to slide it out of it's holder/position--not sure if you side it left or right.


Looking at the picture---there is a release pin (lock) just to the right of the white leaver...push the lock in and swing the lever (white ) to the right and the connector will open as you move the lever to the right.

To put it back--reverse...keep the lever to the right..put the connector together (as you press it together you will see the lever move to the left--push it all the way left and it will clip locked.

 

That lever seems very flimsy, should it pop out easy or will it take a little force to get it to release? Also will the bottom part release or the top? Thanks for your insight!

 

Once you release the locking tab it will swing to the right (acts like a cam lever) usually moves fairly easily. I think that the section with the white cam comes off and the other half is fixed. But if you pull the whole thing down it won't matter.

 

Was there any final resolution to this?

 

Can anybody tell me which wire would be the main power for the OBD connector as per the repair above?

 

Unswitched fused power is Always red with a stripe. Ignition switched fused power is violet with a stripe. The OBD2 pin out is standardized and is available on Google images. The WDS up there can help you trace the wire all the way back to the fuse box if needed.