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Car doesn't start after bad driving lamp install, need help/advice!
Sorry for the long post... but here's the story:
Went to install Hella 500's on my 02 R53 (I've owned for a little over a month) and everything under the engine bay was fine. Went to wire the switch and basically screwed that up because it was late, peer pressure to see a new mod in actions (we all know how that is sometimes). The switch for the Hella's was a three prong switch, so went to connect the power from the battery, constant from the fuse panel (so I wouldn't have to tap into the high beam since I want to run it independently of everything) and ground from engine bay that I ran through the firewall.
Switch doesn't work but wanted to see if the lights still worked so I went to connect the constant from fuse panel (tapped the 30A window control - which now in retrospect was a horrible, horrible idea) and the power from the battery - lights work. I go to connect the ground and sparks/smoke comes from the connection - turns out the ground for the switch was routed to the same point as the ground for one of the Hella's.
Since the constant was to the 30A window fuse, I'm thinking that the overload had no where to go since the grounds were connected and it traveled to the window fuse into the BC1 (general module, BCM, whatever the name is) and killed it.
But here's the thing, the car has no internal lights, no radio, no window controls, nothing electrical functions. Headlights/parking lights will stay on for about 5 seconds when the key is turned to position 1, but after it doesn't work. Rarely, the internal lights will flicker but will not stay on. Only seatbelt, fuel gauge, seems to light up or move, no lights in tach, wiper works, but no turn signals and the hatch will not release. We checked almost every fuse in the car and none of them are blown.
Tried to start the car but would immediately cut off, maybe from lack of fuel. 2nd car start would crank hard but wouldn't turn over. Any attempts after that would just crank, but not start. (Going to check for spark in a bit)
Tried to pop clutch start the car in 2nd and 3rd gear, got nothing but fuel smell.
Would frying the BC1 cause the car to not be able to turn over? seems like all the other modules connect into the BC1 and without it, nothing should work - is that correct? We tried removing the BC1 and starting the car, but everything's the same, no lights etc.
Could there be anything else that might have fried in the process? Thinking that if the BC1 cooked itself, that the surge stopped there?
Is this coded specific for each car because I was thinking of just taking the module to Mini to test and see if it's faulty.
I don't know if I'm missing any more information or trying anything - any suggestions would be cherished at this point since I killed my baby.
I'd take a look at your fuses. I remember on an install I had having similar issues. if you have a fuze checker that's the easiest. I remember for me it was a 20A fuse in the engine bay labeled something that I NEVER would have checked. give that a try and keep us posted
I'll go over it again, we basically pulled every fuse in the engine bay and half in the kick panel by hand to check them last night. But I'll check them again, didn't think just ONE fuse would cause all of this tho, since there's no power routing to any controls in the center console and the car not starting.
Checked every fuse, they're okay. Checked for spark, they're okay. Still leaning towards the BCM since the car still cranks hard with no hesitation. Anyone with any input?
Thinking of just taking the BCM to the dealer to see if they can check it out?
