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I was having difficulty finding the bulb conversion info to American numbers for my 2003 MCS with HID. I accumulated the info and printed out a chart for my glove box and passing info onto you. ( It seems that sometimes the isle reference books are either missing or not up to date, ( Especially true if you have ever shopped at Walmart for bulbs )
Application / Bulb
Dome.................Festoon Festoon 36-39mm or 6411 and 6418
License Plate.......Festoon 36-39mm or 6411 and 6418
High Beam...........Halogen H7
Low Beam...........HID D2R (headlights changed in 05 and for those with HIDs, 02-04 reflector xenons used the D2R, while the newer projector xenons on the 05-06 used D2S.)
Map...................T10-Wedge
Side-markers.......T10-Wedge
Step/Courtesy.....T10-Wedge
Stop Light...........1157
Tail Light.............1157
Turn Signal..........Front-7507 (Amber)
Turn Signal..........Rear-1156
Back-up light........1156
Fogs...................Very early R50/R53s used H7 bulbs, but most 2003 and newer use H11 bulbs.
MINI Factory Driving lights.................H3-55W.
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2003 R53 - DS - 135K + Miles
Parts of MINI NOT Modded ( A Shorter List ) Block/Head/HK Stereo.
I'd perhaps add that for those with Fog lamps, the very early R50/R53s used H7 bulbs, but most 2003 and newer use H11 bulbs for Fogs.
The high beams are H7s.
I'd also say that for others reading this post, remember the headlights changed in 05 and for those with HIDs, 02-04 reflector xenons used the D2R, while the newer projector xenons on the 05-06 used D2S.
I'd perhaps add that for those with Fog lamps, the very early R50/R53s used H7 bulbs, but most 2003 and newer use H11 bulbs for Fogs.
The high beams are H7s.
I'd also say that for others reading this post, remember the headlights changed in 05 and for those with HIDs, 02-04 reflector xenons used the D2R, while the newer projector xenons on the 05-06 used D2S.
Thanks Cornering Guy ! Added in.
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2003 R53 - DS - 135K + Miles
Parts of MINI NOT Modded ( A Shorter List ) Block/Head/HK Stereo.
quick question: i have a 03 MCS and was wondering how many kelvins my oem HIDs have? thanks
Taking a hip shot - I would say they are most likely 6000K. They seem to have just a hint of blue, so I don't beleive they are like US Bulbs putting out the normal 4000K.
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2003 R53 - DS - 135K + Miles
Parts of MINI NOT Modded ( A Shorter List ) Block/Head/HK Stereo.
Taking a hip shot - I would say they are most likely 6000K. They seem to have just a hint of blue, so I don't beleive they are like US Bulbs putting out the normal 4000K.
I was actually trying to match my fog lights to the same HID as my headlights and wanted to find out which one to buy...maybe I will make sure by calling the dealer? Thanks!
[quote=lilbaybt228;2725339]I was actually trying to match my fog lights to the same HID as my headlights and wanted to find out which one to buy...maybe I will make sure by calling the dealer? Thanks!]
Since you didnt ask for specifics and mention anything about matching them I gave it a shot in the dark.......
BTW: Our Stock HID bulbs for our 2003 MCS is 4200K............:P
__________________
2003 R53 - DS - 135K + Miles
Parts of MINI NOT Modded ( A Shorter List ) Block/Head/HK Stereo.
I was actually trying to match my fog lights to the same HID as my headlights and wanted to find out which one to buy...maybe I will make sure by calling the dealer? Thanks!]
Since you didnt ask for specifics and mention anything about matching them I gave it a shot in the dark.......
BTW: Our Stock HID bulbs for our 2003 MCS is 4200K............:P
So I don't think the fog light bulbs, HID-D2R, come in 4200k! That must mean upgrade time!!! 6000k headlights + 6000k fog lights =
I just received some replacement bulbs I ordered from Auto Illuminations to replace the OEM license plate bulbs. Ordered two different bulbs to see which I preferred (one relatively expensive, one cheap).
1. the "High Powered 9 LED SMT Festoon" bulb. Bought it in 36mm. Says it replaces the 6411 or 6418. Had to bend the recepticle prongs in slightly to receive the new bulbs as the OEM are apparently 39mm.
Really liked the color, good to go, right ? Hmmmmmmm... the bulb blinks sporadically when you turn off the headlights. It does that until the interior dome light goes out. Then, it still stays lit, just very dimly. Appears to do that indefinitely. Shouldn't be blinking or staying on... right ? What's wrong with the connection ???
2. the Xenon Super White Festoon Domelight Bulb. Bought it in 39mm and, again, says it replaces the 6411 and 6418.
The color is not bad. But it appears one was a little brighter than the other. Didn't like it. Went to take them out and damnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn... those things burn HOT. After just 45 seconds, they were so f'n hot, I burned my thumb and forefinger just from touching it. Probably would have melted the plastic lense cover had I left them in. What's up with that ??
I'm not giving up. The ultra-white color looks so much better than OEM !
I just received some replacement bulbs I ordered from Auto Illuminations to replace the OEM license plate bulbs. Ordered two different bulbs to see which I preferred (one relatively expensive, one cheap).
1. the "High Powered 9 LED SMT Festoon" bulb. Bought it in 36mm. Says it replaces the 6411 or 6418. Had to bend the recepticle prongs in slightly to receive the new bulbs as the OEM are apparently 39mm.
Really liked the color, good to go, right ? Hmmmmmmm... the bulb blinks sporadically when you turn off the headlights. It does that until the interior dome light goes out. Then, it still stays lit, just very dimly. Appears to do that indefinitely. Shouldn't be blinking or staying on... right ? What's wrong with the connection ???
2. the Xenon Super White Festoon Domelight Bulb. Bought it in 39mm and, again, says it replaces the 6411 and 6418.
The color is not bad. But it appears one was a little brighter than the other. Didn't like it. Went to take them out and damnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn... those things burn HOT. After just 45 seconds, they were so f'n hot, I burned my thumb and forefinger just from touching it. Probably would have melted the plastic lense cover had I left them in. What's up with that ??
I'm not giving up. The ultra-white color looks so much better than OEM !
I'm not an electrician but when a bulb won't turn off and gets hot enough to burn you after 45 sec, I'd say there is something really wrong.
He's talking about two different problems. It's the LED lights that flicker even when power's off. This is common with LED conversions, and requires a resistor added to the wiring to prevent the flicker.
The hot bulb is probably just a case of taking a bulb that's meant for use in an interior dome light and putting it in the cramped confines of a license-plate light housing.
He's talking about two different problems. It's the LED lights that flicker even when power's off. This is common with LED conversions, and requires a resistor added to the wiring to prevent the flicker.
The hot bulb is probably just a case of taking a bulb that's meant for use in an interior dome light and putting it in the cramped confines of a license-plate light housing.
I was hoping you'd chime in, Scott.
Interesting. I replaced my interior dome light with an LED fixture a couple years ago. Works GREAT. I just ordered a 39mm LED, hoping it would work better since it's 3mm longer and matched up with the OEM bulb in length. Bet it won't work either.
And yeah, the HID bulb maybe go so damn hot because of the small confine, even though I never even replaced the plastic lens cap.
The reason you're getting flickering is that when an LED is turned off, it remains "forward biased" (think of it as being "charged") until the LED leads are actually shorted to ground. But in a car, when a bulb is turned off, the power lead to the bulb isn't actually grounded - it's left "floating". So, any little spurious voltage on the power lead can be enough to make the LED flicker.
The solution is to put a resistor across the terminals of the LED bulb. The resistor value needs to be large enough so that the resistor isn't drawing a significant amount of current while the light's on, but low enough so that when the LED is turned off, the LED can discharge quickly through the resistor so that it won't flicker in response to spurious voltages.
As for an exact value, I'd start off with a 4.7 kΩ resistor and work downward from there. Don't go below 1 kΩ, because that will start pushing the limits of what a standard 1/4-Watt resistor can dissipate, heat-wise.
7507: 
Had to bend the recepticle prongs in slightly to receive the new bulbs as the OEM are apparently 39mm. 
