Hot or Not (Fuses) - Page 2

windfall · #26 07-11-2009, 07:32 PM

Well, you are right, I have no phone, but I have trouble reading the list you put in your message. Are those terminals in the fuse box? I looked for a terminal in the fuse box that was switched by the headlight switch, but did not have much luck. Could I find one if the engine was running? My experience is with older wiring systems that are not so tied to the engine. This is the first car I have ever owned that required the engine to be running for the cigarette lighter to work.
I have looked at the wiring harness coming out of the h/l switch, but I do not want to just start poking a probe into all the wired and hoping.
Thanks

JAceMin · #27 07-11-2009, 08:32 PM

F10 is in the passenger side, from the left looking at the fuse box, second column, first fuse, 10 amp. I used a fuse tap, amazon, or auto zone:

http://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-BP-HH...gy_auto_text_b

rkw · #28 07-11-2009, 08:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by windfall

I need to tie me gauge lights into a switched wire that is not dimmed, as they are LED's

Why is that an issue? LED's can be dimmed (such as the MINI gauge lights, which are LED).

**Tron Chief** · #29 07-11-2009, 09:42 PM

I would tap the DSC line as this is the inst. light line also F2 should be switched by the ignition.

windfall · #30 07-12-2009, 06:46 AM

OK. Marshall told me you couldn't put the lights on the dimmer, but I admit that I did not try it. I just believed them. I will try it. Thanks.

**Tron Chief** · #31 07-12-2009, 06:57 AM

What gauge(s) did you get and you can go direct to the fuse block and put a fuse tap in or tap into the wire on top use the color guide to find the wire. I used the alarm power as I wanted to have constant power for my garage door opener that I placed in my car so I know that many of the lines are switched and the color coded does work. I would recommend that you look at what you don't have installed in your car then go after that signal going into your fuse block and then tap the wire of that color.

windfall · #32 07-12-2009, 06:05 PM

As I said somewhere above, Marshall gauges. Their silver rim looks a lot like the standard rim in the series 2.
After the post above, I decided to try the gray/red wire that goes to the DSC switch, which is what Alta suggests. The lights in the new gauges may be a little weaker than the stock instrument lights. It is hard to tell until night. In any case, they are close, and if they are a little weaker, I can live with that. They all dim and brighten together, so its going to be ok.
It runs a fairly high water temp, just under 220, if the gauge is accurate. I saw somewhere else that that is about right. Hope so.

**Tron Chief** · #33 07-12-2009, 08:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by windfall

As I said somewhere above, Marshall gauges. Their silver rim looks a lot like the standard rim in the series 2.
After the post above, I decided to try the gray/red wire that goes to the DSC switch, which is what Alta suggests. The lights in the new gauges may be a little weaker than the stock instrument lights. It is hard to tell until night. In any case, they are close, and if they are a little weaker, I can live with that. They all dim and brighten together, so its going to be ok.
It runs a fairly high water temp, just under 220, if the gauge is accurate. I saw somewhere else that that is about right. Hope so.

Mine also runs around 220 unless I kick on the AC then it drops down to 190 or so. Also I let idle at night for an extended period of time and got it up to 240 the fans were all on trying to assist in the cool down. Do you have any pictures of the install yet?

windfall · #34 07-13-2009, 06:06 AM

The plan is for pictures later today. You know how plans are.

**Tron Chief** · #35 07-13-2009, 09:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by windfall

The plan is for pictures later today. You know how plans are.

Yes they are something to deviate from

windfall · #36 07-14-2009, 07:25 PM

OK, I took the pictures. See the link below. Week 19 is my build period, so we worried together. They are water temp and oil pressure guages. http://www.northamericanmotoring.com...9-post882.html

godskid · #37 08-10-2009, 01:41 PM

Are any of these fuses associated with the second-to-open barn door, on a Clubman? I installed MiniDoMore's electric package for my tow bar (also from them) and now my left barn door won't open. [ Note, I've seen a service bulletin mentioning the left barn door separately, so maybe it isn't something that I caused. ] The tow pkg wiring gets power from the rear area cig lighter. I should perhaps also note that I didn't unplug the battery first, cause it is so hard to reach in the Clubman. Any suggestion of what fuse I might have tripped, in attaching that wiring?

**Brent@minidomore.com** · #38 08-10-2009, 06:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by godskid

Are any of these fuses associated with the second-to-open barn door, on a Clubman? I installed MiniDoMore's electric package for my tow bar (also from them) and now my left barn door won't open. [ Note, I've seen a service bulletin mentioning the left barn door separately, so maybe it isn't something that I caused. ] The tow pkg wiring gets power from the rear area cig lighter. I should perhaps also note that I didn't unplug the battery first, cause it is so hard to reach in the Clubman. Any suggestion of what fuse I might have tripped, in attaching that wiring?

Thanks for purchasing a harness from us. I am not aware of any barn door issues and our harness install. I wouldn't think the Aux Power and Barn Door are on the same fuse either. I would bet this is a separate issue.

donuttang · #39 09-03-2009, 07:05 AM

both door light(the ones under the door) and the trunk light are off, which fuse would that be??? i checked F13/14/18

lacning74 · #40 10-21-2009, 05:36 PM

I noticed I'm missing fuse 28 (rear wiper relay) in my 2007 MC. Don't even see tabs inside for the a fuse. I removed my rear wiper a while ago but don't remember messing with the fuse. Maybe I pulled it out, and the tabs also came unsoldered?

Can anyone check and see if they have one or not in their MC?

Chimera · #41 10-25-2009, 01:13 PM

I have a problem after adding my add-a-circuit into fuse F21. According to the first couple of posts, F21 is supposed to come on when the doors unlock, then go off after 30 minutes (60 if you have a phone which I do). However, mine isn't going off at all. I've left it for 2 hours now, doors locked and the circuit still has power (I wired in a 3-way cig lighter adapter and it has a power LED so I can see through the window that power is still there). Any ideas? Any other fuses I can use besides F21 to get a different result??

Chimera · #42 10-25-2009, 01:21 PM

I just went back and in the Bearcat's pics in post #11, Fuse F21 has a picture that looks like a computer. In my 09 S panel, fuse F21 is the top fuse in the 3rd row and has a picture of a lock. Fuse F23 (3rd fuse in the 3rd row) has the picture of the computer, so I moved my add-a-circuit to that fuse...we'll see if the power gets cut off after 30/60 minutes.

Chimera · #43 10-25-2009, 06:26 PM

Well that worked, it's fuse F23 on the 09 S.

Robin Casady · #44 10-31-2009, 11:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JAceMin

F10 is a good switched hit, as odds are no phone... at least I didn't have one.

Is this for Bluetooth, or something else?

I want to use an Add-A-Circuit for an amp turn-on.

I was considering F11. I don't have Satellite Radio. Is "Digital Radio Tuner" the AM/FM radio in the head unit? Or, is it something else?

Another possibility is F12. I don't have a CD Changer nor iPod Integration. Would this circuit still be active? Or, would the OBC deactivate it?

Finally, I'm a little confused about fuse sizes. Are the above fuses ATO? Is that the same as Mini?

Thanks.

pilotart · #45 10-31-2009, 02:44 PM

I used fuse socket F10 to 'Add-A-Line' for my XM Radio, it uses 2 "Mini" ATM 10 Amp fuses
(According to COOPER Bussman Inc. St. Louis, MO).

(Likely only needed one fuse, since I have no telephone installed.)

F10, F11 and F12 are all 30G Circuits and will activate when you unlock the doors
and remain on after car is parked and locked for 20-30 minutes.

If your load requires more than 10 Amp fuse protection, you would need to step up to a larger size fuse socket.

The Digital Radio Tuner would be for the Digital Radio option, if installed.

Robin Casady · #46 10-31-2009, 03:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pilotart

I used fuse socket F10 to 'Add-A-Line' for my XM Radio, it uses 2 "Mini" ATM 10 Amp fuses
(According to COOPER Bussman Inc. St. Louis, MO).

(Likely only needed one fuse, since I have no telephone installed.)

F10, F11 and F12 are all 30G Circuits and will activate when you unlock the doors
and remain on after car is parked and locked for 20-30 minutes.

If your load requires more than 10 Amp fuse protection, you would need to step up to a larger size fuse socket.

I suspect it requires very little, but if "Telephone" means Bluetooth, I'd rather not gang them on the same circuit. Do you have Bluetooth?

The amp's instructions say, "The amplifier will turn on when 12V is present at its 'Remote' input..." It doesn't say what the amperage requirement is. It simply tells the amp to turn on. Power comes from another source (4 gauge wire directly to battery).

My impression is that the audio stays on for around 15 min. after the engine is turned off, but immediately after doors are locked. The audio fuses seem to be 30G. Mine is a 2007. Does your 2008 behave differently?

pilotart · #47 10-31-2009, 04:45 PM

I have no Bluetooth installed in my MINI. You could use F11 or F12 if you don't have that equipment installed.

Since you have that 4 gauge power, this no doubt would be a low power relay.

My car radio (Boost/CD) does turn itself off when I reject the key/fob, this would be equivalent to your locking with CA. However, if I don't turn off the XM (also powered by G30 circuit), it remains on until 'timed-out'. So the "Radio off on lock" command must come from within the radio. My radio will turn back on with a push on the volume knob after it has been shut off by key/fob removal.

My radio (and XM SkyFi) can be turned on anytime after doors are unlocked and remain on after doors are locked "for 30 minutes" , (but it seems to be less than 20 to me).

I could imagine that if that Amp kept drawing its high current load through the 4 gauge cable, it could kill the battery before it timed out. You would need to test before parking away from your battery charger, watch your ScanGauge Voltage read for below 12.1 for an idea of battery health.

How about; F2 20A 30G_F X11003 5 2.5 RT/BL Trailer Socket

Quote:

Terminal 30g_f:

The relay terminal 30g-f is only fitted with High equipment, e.g. if the Car Communication Computer (CCC) was ordered.

In the event of faults, the relay terminal 30g-f switches the connected consumer units off. The relay terminal 30g-f is controlled by the junction box electronics.

Relay terminal 30g-f is a bi-stable relay. Each switch mode is retained even without current. Under normal conditions, the relay is always switched on. In the event of a fault, the relay switches the connected consumer units off.

The following switch-off and switch-on conditions apply to the relay terminal 30g-f:

Cutout conditions:

* Reception of the message ”Signal off”.
After 5 minutes, relay terminal 30g-f is switched off.
* The battery status is continuously read out and evaluated in the engine control module. If the starting capability of the vehicle battery is insufficient, the relay is also switched off.
* Data interchange on the buses for 10 minutes after deactivation of terminal 30g without a switch-on condition.
* Vehicle is 'wakened' 20 times after deactivation of terminal 30g without a switch-on condition.

Switch-on conditions:
When the relay terminal 30g-f is switched off, it can only by switched on again with defined conditions required for switch-on.
Conditions required for switch-on for relay terminal 30g-f:

* Unlock vehicle
* Opening the luggage compartment lid / bonnet or door
* Switching on terminal R

This is the larger fuse socket and could use a 20 (or 30?) amp larger fuse, I don't know what "CCC" or "Terminal R" refers to,
but here is a link to (the free) WDS MINI Wiring Diagram System

- US English won't even open in Firefox,
but works fine using Internet Explorer 7 or 8 with svg/viewer

http://www.mcaw.info/wds/mini/us/index.htm

Here is the (free) Adobe SVG Viewer Plug-in that must be installed:

http://www.adobe.com/svg/viewer/install/main.html

(click Tools - Manage Add-ons - download new)

In this thread, Schatzy62 says that this version 6 is 01/08 release for Gen 1 and 2007 Gen 2, would expect nearly the same for later Gen 2's.

More in this thread as well.

Robin Casady · #48 10-31-2009, 11:15 PM

I haven't been able to find an Add-A-Circuit that can handle 20 amps. If 30G_F is what I want then this seems to be the best candidate:
F20 7A 30G_F X11008 13 0.75 RT/GE Outside mirror fold-in
I don't have power folding mirrors. Any thoughts on that?

pilotart · #49 11-01-2009, 12:10 AM

I'm not even sure that the 30G_F would be the best, too much detail on the description that I don't understand...

I bought my Add-A-Line at Advance Auto Parts for $6.49.

"ATM MINI FUSE BUSMN 5080114 PB/HHH"

It was at the bottom row of the large BUSS Fuse Display and there was a larger version right next to it.

While it is better to use an otherwise 'empty' circuit, the Add-A... is designed to piggyback on an existing circuit
and an intermintent lightly loaded one would be a good second choice.

Do use caution when unplugging/plugging into your fuse panel, BumperPlug? had to buy a whole new fuse panel
after his cracked and failed from inserting an Add-A... .

Robin Casady · #50 11-01-2009, 01:34 AM

Yea, I wish I knew what, "Relay terminal 30g-f is a bi-stable relay. Each switch mode is retained even without current. Under normal conditions, the relay is always switched on. In the event of a fault, the relay switches the connected consumer units off." meant.