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How does the stock water pump cause "costly supercharger replacements"?
Quote:
Originally Posted by JustJAY
+1 I would like to know since I no longer have a warranty.
The water pump on a MCS is bolted to the back of the supercharger, which is what actually what drives it.
In between the two is the water pump drive which consists of two fairly thin gears that mesh together. There is lube for the gears when the supercharger is assembled, but over time it appears that the lube is pulled past the shaft seal and sucked into into the supercharger. Once the "gear case" has been sucked dry, the water pump drive gears will self destruct, and you will have no coolant circulation.
As far as I know, there are no replacement gears and the water pump drive only comes with a new supercharger.
I'll see how the exchange rate is doing here vs the USD on the 20th of Oct. The dollar has gained crazy in the last week! Hopefully it will come back down in 2 weeks time.
Just a quick question, a supercharger will only fail once the pump dies correct? Or are there other ways it can break?
Were any of the failures perhaps due to high percentage SC pulleys?
This is the first time I've heard of SC failures due to the water pump, though I'm sure it is possible.
__________________ pberry51mini
Out of the blue of the western sky comes . . .
It's been seen time and time again where there is a S/C failure it's not so much the S/C that failed but the water pump gears hanging off the end. The ones that we have seen here on NAM have run out of the oil in the water pump area and the gears grind them selves to bits. Water stops being pumped, heat builds, bad things happen. So it's not really a S/C failure that people are calling a S/C failure. See this thread http://www.northamericanmotoring.com...ead.php?t=7467
There has been no correlation made at this time with good hard data that changing the pulley, whether it be JCW, 15, 16, 17 or 19%, has contributed to the failure. That could be there is not enough data logged to see it as trend or it could be the pulley is not an issue.
Yes, as of now the failures we are seeing are due to the water pump drive.
Thanks for clearing that up, will def be interested. Need to wait until 20th and see if our currency improves. It went from 1:7 to 1:10 to the dollar in one week. All since the bailout - hoping it comes back a little by then.
I am curious- has anyone installed such an electric water pump system?
Are there any photos available of a finished installation? How is the open end of the supercharger covered up?
Where is the 'new' water pump mounted? same place- or are there new hoses in the set as well for a new location.
And lastly, is it necessary to repair the 'old' water pump gears on the supercharger- that are usually worn out? Do they have any other purpose other then driving the stock water pump?
I am curious- has anyone installed such an electric water pump system?
Are there any photos available of a finished installation? How is the open end of the supercharger covered up?
Where is the 'new' water pump mounted? same place- or are there new hoses in the set as well for a new location.
And lastly, is it necessary to repair the 'old' water pump gears on the supercharger- that are usually worn out? Do they have any other purpose other then driving the stock water pump?
thanks,
There are pics in my gallery.
Pump is mounted in the stock location.
No need to repair worn/broken water pump gears, just install our block off plate and go.
A few questions regarding your set-up.
1) is the thermostat removed and the flow managed by exclusively by the electronic controller?
2) Is the controller analog or digital?
3) What temperatures can it be set at?
4) What are the min & max flow rates from this pump?
Actually, I have never found any damage to the shaft seal or proof that the oil is sucked into the supercharger past the seal (though it is possible). The
thing I notice when rebuilding the rear gear drive is the lack of sealant between the plate and the rest of the housing. Of course I don't get to
see the car (if there is proof of oil under the supercharger near the seam).
Either way the oil does escape and the gears do fail very quickly. I have after about a year of testing and such now replace the drive gears (as well as the shaft seals, bearings, etc.) The biggest problem is the stock gears always made a bit of a whining noise, and my replacement gears do the same (even a little louder for the first 500 miles until they wear themselves in). Our magnetic oil fill plugs we install make sure that any bear or gear particles stay out of the oil after the break in period. But I love to hear any
information from the user end of this problem. We only get to see the results of the failure - never during!
