in the interim, i have been hunting down something to do with the intake...
came across this little guy for a peugeot 208 gti, same engine, little different layout.
didnt bother asking questions cause all i see is that "the stock intake is the best!", which may very well be the case. forge doesnt even sell this piece anymore, but there are a few still around overseas still so i ordered one. the early installed ones seems to definitely need tuning to make it work correctly and without support i think forge threw in the towel and discontinued it. [they] 208 gti guys, seem to have worked out the issues so how hard could it be! Or it may end up being a nice waste of a couple hundred bux, similar to all the other aftermarket intakes.
going to have to relocate the coolant reservoir but i'll prob end up copying the DNA bracket/hoses

 

You can't just use a JCW intake or an elbow that will fit larger turbo?

 

yea i could, but the cold air duct on mine is busted at the filter box so i already need a new one of those, the jcw intake needs the n14 base, and then the jcw box/filter itself.
a lot of my driving is highway... soon as i stop the intake temps go way up with the closed system now so i cant imagine it getting much worse.

 

I'm running the NM elbow on my Alta 42/56 turbo. Fits snug but easily goes on.

Perhaps just use that elbow/intake or get an elbow from JMTC that has a larger inlet for turbo.

 

I just put on a jcw turbo on my 2007 r56 and found that a K&N typhoon elbow fits nice and tight.
Nice read by the way.

 

day before last i was cruising around running it out a few times and it started sputtering like a cyl was dead... had to pull it over , had no tools all i could really do was try swapping coils - did nothing. had to tow it home, pulled the plug it looked cold, threw in an old plug and fired right up.
after all that i noticed the coolant was low - figured it was from swapping the turbo, so i topped it off and went for another drive. Low again, filled and went to bleed and the bleed screw broke off - wonderful. i managed to get the rest of it out of the thermostat without ruining anything, couldnt find a plug local so i overnighted one.
https://www.amazon.com/Upgrade-Coola...w+mini+bleeder
car was sitting for a day while i waited.
the intake came in so i started mocking it up to see how it looked, cut out a quick bracket out of some aluminum plate i had around for the coolant reservoir, extended the hoses, need to get back in and clean everything up.
the intake itself hits the boost tube a little, not enough to deform either so i'm not that worried about it and i need to get a proper plug for the other outlet not needed, i had a plug but i didnt want to put something in there that could get sucked in so i put a cap on it
its talkative as hell now everytime it goes from vac to boost all kinds of whooshes and whistles.
only code its throwing is for the heater circuit open - talked to tigger he gave me the resistor info i need to get rid of it

 

If you can't find a resistor local let me know. I'll look and see if I have a spare floating around. I originally ordered them from here:
Resistor

 

thanks man, if you come across it lmk.... looks like theyre back ordered at the moment anyhow.

 

Found one. Give me a holler and we can meet up.

 

Tuesdays lookin pretty good, should be south. I'll text ya in the morning

also, we need to look at tune, i'm getting a little "breakup" every once and a while, but everything looks good - fuel rail pressure, afr, timing, etc. i'm riding right on the edge of the 22psi boost cut so i'm not sure if thats whats happening. I ordered another set of plugs i'm going to pull them all and see how they look, check gap, etc since I changed them about 5k ago. I may try and put it back on stock tune and see if it''ll throw misfire code but its pretty random and only when getting on it

 

Randy ...I like that intake set up...Where did you get the intake Hose?
I'm interested...text me...I wanna take a look...

 

the intake hose is from forge, part number FMIND208. it is not sold anymore I could only find a place in France that had some old stock. With the long hose going to the pcv system it is made for the n18, there is another part number FMIND207 which i believe is for same car with the N14 motor, it has the outlets to the pcv system(reuse stock hose) another another outlet for whatever, Its looks to be alot easier to locate, but it also has the same kick in it that pushes it into the boost tube.
when engine is cold first start up sounds like it cycles maybe the pcv or wastegate/DV and its loud. I assume it did it before the intake it just wasnt noticable
Im prob going to be down south most of the week, i'll text ya if i end up that way after work not to late

 

Sooooo I think I've narrowed down the "breakup" to fueling issues again. It's becoming to where I can almost do it on cue.
Main scenario when this happens is 2nd gear normal driving, rpms get to about 3500 and floor it.
Timing is usually about 30* , it drops to 5-6* when floored - seems good
Afr will be 14.7/8ish , it'll dip down into 12.x initially -but resolution not so great on torque app
Fuel rail pressure will be 1700psi but it dives down to 1100-1300psi and won't recover before engine chokes.in higher gears WOT it'll push 2200+psi.
From a dead stop it seems to "keep up" (no cough) but feels down on power. I changed the fuel filter, no change. I'm going to try swapping in tank fuel pump with another mini this weekend and see if it helps.
No problems with cold starts, rail pressure with just in tank pump is 68.5psi.
With the stock tune (changed by SPS switch) it presents no problems, rail pressure slightly drops(1700 to 1500) but has no problem recovering immediately under same situation. Kinda SOL on having dealer warranty hpfp unless it has issues on stock tune, throws code, etc
Put back on stock intake also, problem remained

Unrelated.... quaife differential arrived! Jmtc stage 3 clutch/ flywheel should be here in a couple of days.
The diff for these cars is comically small, not sure what I was expecting

 

More pics...cause wrapped up lsd isn't much fun...

 

It sounds like your hpfp isn't working correctly. With the Carly wifi(iPhone) obd2 tool you can monitor the absolute fuel pressure and the requested fuel pressure. They would be very close.
I to did the Quaife and a clutch at the same time. To bad I have winter tires on now. But works good in the snow

 

that is pretty much my assumption, just trying to rule out other issues. in tank pump failing wouldnt be much of a surprise however - 112k miles, usually run tank into the last red hatch. I can swap it with other mini for free so i figured i'd give it a shot. If no luck then i'll just keep hoping it'll throw a code or convince dealer in the next 8k miles it needs to be fixed.

 

I bought mine used not running and found it needed a HPFP. I didn't know I could get a new one for free from dealer and bought a used one for $450. Once I found out about the warranty 120,000 miles 10 years I drove to my nearest Mini dealer 2 hours away and swapped the broken one back in at the Weis parking lot. Drove to the Dealer as the half power check engine light came on and now have a brand new HPFP. Sold the other pump and got most my money back

If you could find a nonworking one and stick it on and get that one replaced at the dealer? They looked up my Vin to see if I could still do the warranty.

 

i like your style

I paid out of pocket and had it replaced last Jan/Feb, ended up getting reimbursed for it a few months later after the campaign started. Which was nice, but now left with the 10yr/120k mile warranty which I'm fast approaching.
and i'm in the early n18 model that is different from n14 pumps and late 2012 pumps, so sourcing a bad one may not be so easy

 

 

Sorry new to this page lol just figuring out how everything works. I've been looking at the eBay intercoolers and was just trying to find out some information on them before I bought one. Thx for any info.

 

Mine seems to be doing ok, only time i may see a lower intake temp would be WOT runs with a better/namebrand one, but otherwise it stays just a few degrees over ambient temp and recovers after wot quick

swapping in tank pump did nothing, if anything it seems worse

 

just to follow up , in case some one else manages to find this while trouble shooting.
I sucked it up and bought another hpfp from ECS, turned out not to solve a thing so that was nice to **** away another grand, but atleast i have a spare now.

it continued to have issues for a few weeks, swapped a few more parts, tried data logging, etc. I am about 99.9% sure the problem is fuel/octane related. retuning (detuning) would have probably solved the issue but thats no fun. I ran a few tanks of 100 octane through it and it hasnt missed a beat, power stays in it even when heat soaked. At $9/gal it wouldnt take long to pay for meth set up, so i went ahead and ordered the aquamist hfs4 from howerton.

205 tires arent cutting it anymore either, 100 octane with the manic 2B tune blows the tires off in 1st/2nd just rolling into boost - launches are embarrassing. ordered a set of 235/40s, wheel studs, spacers.

 

Nice, I've just ordered a water/meth kit too. But went with the AEM kit.

 

i looked at the handful of the other (more cost effective) kits, aem/snow look like they work great. but as much as i drive this thing, plan on keeping it until who knows?? engine rebuild it inevitable but until it either completely falls apart or is involved in a major accident and aquamist doesnt shy away from 100% meth if i ever need it.