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Just curious, did you car pass inspection with this downpipe on? I have one sitting, waiting until my inspection in March for the same reason. It's killing me every time I walk by and see it just sitting.
I also have an accessport installed.
I put it on right after the car was inspected. If you want to wait 10 more months to see if it passes then, be my guest
I've been working on a ton of projects on the car, one of which is this downpipe.
Apparently I have an older version with the primary O2 bung in the wrong spot. So I'll be relocating that before it goes on. Just an FYI for those interested in purchasing.
Sorry for the massive picture. Circle is where the bung should be to fit out of the factory heatshield. And clear the AEM heatshiled as well.
We are running the 2.5" de-cat on to the standard MCS exhaust system and have no excessive back pressure at over 250 at the wheels (circa 280+ engine bhp).
Unless people are running much higher BHP, is it worth the hassle of a 3" down pipe?
We are running the 2.5" de-cat on to the standard MCS exhaust system and have no excessive back pressure at over 250 at the wheels (circa 280+ engine bhp).
Unless people are running much higher BHP, is it worth the hassle of a 3" down pipe?
Did anyone test the back pressure?
Cheers
RW
I picked it up for a good price. If all I have to do it add this additional bung, I'll be OK with the work involved. Everything else (welds, v-bands, etc.) look top notch.
Some feedback from my experience with this downpipe.
It's NOT a direct bolt-on. Upper and lower O2 sensor bungs were both in non-factory locations. If you're not running any heat-shields, then this isn't a problem. But I ran the factory heat-shields along with the AEM supplied heat-shield, so this was a problem for me. I had to relocate the primary O2 location and plug the original one. I just drilled a hole into the lower heat-shield after careful marking and locating.
Bolting the downpipe to the turbine housing was impossible for me. I used DEI titanium heat wrap and the wrap + the stainless clamp was interfering with the factory flanged lock-huts. I ended up buying some brass coated, flanged lock-nuts that had a 10mm head instead of the factory 13mm. I also had to cut the non-threaded "guide" portion off of 2 studs. Finally, I could assemble everything.
The 2-piece design is ridiculous. I understand why they do it, so if you buy their GT28 turbo kit, it comes with the elbow so no need to change your entire downpipe. But if you're really going with a GT28, odds are you'll be doing a bunch of custom work anyway.
The outlet of the downpipe didn't end up in a good location under the engine.
Overall, I can't recommend this downpipe for the typical board member. If you have the ability to modify this as much as is needed, then you're better off just building your own from scratch. I wish I would've done this actually.
Some feedback from my experience with this downpipe.
It's NOT a direct bolt-on. Upper and lower O2 sensor bungs were both in non-factory locations. If you're not running any heat-shields, then this isn't a problem. But I ran the factory heat-shields along with the AEM supplied heat-shield, so this was a problem for me. I had to relocate the primary O2 location and plug the original one. I just drilled a hole into the lower heat-shield after careful marking and locating.
Bolting the downpipe to the turbine housing was impossible for me. I used DEI titanium heat wrap and the wrap + the stainless clamp was interfering with the factory flanged lock-huts. I ended up buying some brass coated, flanged lock-nuts that had a 10mm head instead of the factory 13mm. I also had to cut the non-threaded "guide" portion off of 2 studs. Finally, I could assemble everything.
The 2-piece design is ridiculous. I understand why they do it, so if you buy their GT28 turbo kit, it comes with the elbow so no need to change your entire downpipe. But if you're really going with a GT28, odds are you'll be doing a bunch of custom work anyway.
The outlet of the downpipe didn't end up in a good location under the engine.
Overall, I can't recommend this downpipe for the typical board member. If you have the ability to modify this as much as is needed, then you're better off just building your own from scratch. I wish I would've done this actually.
We are running 290bhp on a standard mcs exhaust except for a bolt on off the shelf miltek catless downpipe on 2.5" bore. There is nothing to be gained from a 3" downpipe unless you are in excess of 300bhp and the sheer list of hassle you have mentioned above makes it clear that even if you are paid to fit that downpipe its still not worth it.
That level of fabrication effort should be saved for when you are way past the capabilities of off the shelf components.
We are running 290bhp on a standard mcs exhaust except for a bolt on off the shelf miltek catless downpipe on 2.5" bore. There is nothing to be gained from a 3" downpipe unless you are in excess of 300bhp and the sheer list of hassle you have mentioned above makes it clear that even if you are paid to fit that downpipe its still not worth it.
That level of fabrication effort should be saved for when you are way past the capabilities of off the shelf components.
Agreed. I wanted to post my experience in case anyone else thought about purchasing one, since I couldn't find any good feedback on the product when I was researching.
Also, with all the Access Ports still being sold on this board, every bit of information about them states that you must run a 3" turbo back, catless exhaust. This is exactly what sent me in that direction initially and I'm sure I'm not the only person.
If that information were updated, it would save everyone a lot of work and money.
The upside to my experience is, I learned how to TIG weld and have a new toy in the garage!
Agreed. I wanted to post my experience in case anyone else thought about purchasing one, since I couldn't find any good feedback on the product when I was researching.
Also, with all the Access Ports still being sold on this board, every bit of information about them states that you must run a 3" turbo back, catless exhaust. This is exactly what sent me in that direction initially and I'm sure I'm not the only person.
If that information were updated, it would save everyone a lot of work and money.
The upside to my experience is, I learned how to TIG weld and have a new toy in the garage!
Yep that all makes sense. I was just trying to bookend it by showing from actual experience that you don't need one unless you are way high up the power levels where most people realistically do not take a mini.
I wonder why they suggest you need that 3" downpipe. Is it maybe something to do with American mini having two catalytic converters and this creates a bigger restriction in the exhaust? Even if it is that doesn't sound like the best solution to a backpressure problem.
Yep that all makes sense. I was just trying to bookend it by showing from actual experience that you don't need one unless you are way high up the power levels where most people realistically do not take a mini.
I wonder why they suggest you need that 3" downpipe. Is it maybe something to do with American mini having two catalytic converters and this creates a bigger restriction in the exhaust? Even if it is that doesn't sound like the best solution to a backpressure problem.
Curious, what are you guys tuning with? I'm moving to the Manic setup as soon as the car is back on the road and I verify all the repairs I made are working correctly.
The only reason I can think of the 3" recommendation is maybe that's what Alta created the maps with?
Currently making 291whp or approx. 330bhp with a 2.5" DP and custom 3" exhaust on Manic Stage 3 with X51 turbo. Exhaust back pressure has an interesting effect on wategate efficiency. In boost you want the exhaust to be directed thru the turbine, but as back pressure increases the extra pressure tries to force the wastegate open. To compensate you have to increase the duty cycle to the solenoid, which works up to a point. My guess would be the Alta tunes were designed around either 40 or 42mm turbine exducers and the 3" DP would help keep the WG solenoid duty cycle at a lower level.
02-03-2016, 04:37 AM
