Drivetrain Stuck in Limp-Mode after downpipe and FMIC install???
#1
Stuck in Limp-Mode after downpipe and FMIC install???
Installed an Akrapovic DP and Forge FMIC on the GP yesterday and was promptly rewarded with relegation to limp / half-power / whatever mode. It came on immediately upon starting the car after the work was done, so I'm guessing one of the initial fault-checks the car does at start-up must not have come back clear. I tried reading / clearing the codes with my CAN tool, but it shows 0 codes present (I haven't used it before, may not be doing it right). Disconnecting the battery for a while didn't do anything either.
Any thoughts on what might be causing the limp mode? I disconnected a bunch of stuff to put the bumper in service mode, but IIRC the only important connector that was unplugged was the pre-cat O2 sensor. I'm pretty sure I got everything else back right. I did forget to unplug the battery initially (until I accidentally caught a nice arc off the alternator trying to wedge the lower heat-shield back in place), but it was disconnected for a solid few hours after that. Only other thing I can think of was the hopelessly stuck top stud on the turbo-downpipe joint that forced me to tap the old DP off with a hammer and drift, but I was fairly gentle. I know it's tough to diagnose without a better idea of which codes the car is throwing, and I had to leave the car in my parent's garage so I can't get back to it for another week. I'm trying to come up with a game plan for how to tackle the issue when I can get back to it, as I will only have about 12 hours to get it going again.
Any thoughts on what might be causing the limp mode? I disconnected a bunch of stuff to put the bumper in service mode, but IIRC the only important connector that was unplugged was the pre-cat O2 sensor. I'm pretty sure I got everything else back right. I did forget to unplug the battery initially (until I accidentally caught a nice arc off the alternator trying to wedge the lower heat-shield back in place), but it was disconnected for a solid few hours after that. Only other thing I can think of was the hopelessly stuck top stud on the turbo-downpipe joint that forced me to tap the old DP off with a hammer and drift, but I was fairly gentle. I know it's tough to diagnose without a better idea of which codes the car is throwing, and I had to leave the car in my parent's garage so I can't get back to it for another week. I'm trying to come up with a game plan for how to tackle the issue when I can get back to it, as I will only have about 12 hours to get it going again.
#2
I'm thinking one of the O2 sensors isn't threaded all the down and is causing a leak or it's not connected into the harness correctly
mQubed Motorsport, Manic Tuning Dealer
mQubed Motorsport, Manic Tuning Dealer
__________________
2013 GP2 #295, 270whp/310wtq, KO4 47mm Turbo, 18" NM Wheels, Alta intake, Manic Stage III+, HFS-3 Meth, 30% E85 Blend, Forged IC, Alta Hot Pipe, P&P/Ceramic Exhaust Manifold, m3 Extreme Ceramic DP, Vibrant mid res, 4" Double walled Tips, WMW/KW V3 CO, Alta Rear CA, CREE Fogs, Black out F/R Rings and Gas Cap, M7 CF Front Splitter, and No Stickers. MORE TO COME!! Previous 04Triple Black 17% Alta, MM Air/H2O, CAI, OBX Header, FBT Head, Shrick Cam, 234whp
2013 GP2 #295, 270whp/310wtq, KO4 47mm Turbo, 18" NM Wheels, Alta intake, Manic Stage III+, HFS-3 Meth, 30% E85 Blend, Forged IC, Alta Hot Pipe, P&P/Ceramic Exhaust Manifold, m3 Extreme Ceramic DP, Vibrant mid res, 4" Double walled Tips, WMW/KW V3 CO, Alta Rear CA, CREE Fogs, Black out F/R Rings and Gas Cap, M7 CF Front Splitter, and No Stickers. MORE TO COME!! Previous 04Triple Black 17% Alta, MM Air/H2O, CAI, OBX Header, FBT Head, Shrick Cam, 234whp
#3
#4
Did you replace the DP to turbo gasket? Or the V-band clamp gasket? If not, you could have a leak at those points as well. I would think they're ok since its fairly new, but you never know.
Also, I'd unplug the post cat o2 at the harness connection just under the turbo and make sure everything is seated correctly.
Also, do you have a tune for this car?
If you disconnected the pre cat o2 sensor at the harness connection just above the alternator double check that. Also check and make sure the little connector below the alternator is fully seated, I've had it get loose when moving the front bumper out into service mode before. My connector is yellow but its a '07 so it could be different on yours.
For good measure, even though you probably didn't touch them, check the MAF and DV connections.
Also, I'd unplug the post cat o2 at the harness connection just under the turbo and make sure everything is seated correctly.
Also, do you have a tune for this car?
If you disconnected the pre cat o2 sensor at the harness connection just above the alternator double check that. Also check and make sure the little connector below the alternator is fully seated, I've had it get loose when moving the front bumper out into service mode before. My connector is yellow but its a '07 so it could be different on yours.
For good measure, even though you probably didn't touch them, check the MAF and DV connections.
#6
#7
That being said, when I installed my Wagner FMIC, the passenger side connection was hell to put on, double check that both sides are fully seated.
I actually forgot about the FMIC you installed when I replied.
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#8
Yeah, haven't you blown this connection a time or two at the track?
That being said, when I installed my Wagner FMIC, the passenger side connection was hell to put on, double check that both sides are fully seated.
I actually forgot about the FMIC you installed when I replied.
That being said, when I installed my Wagner FMIC, the passenger side connection was hell to put on, double check that both sides are fully seated.
I actually forgot about the FMIC you installed when I replied.
OP, really make sure the charge pipe is seated all the way and that the clamp that goes on it is as close in as possible to seat.
BTW, don't go into service mode, its a waste of time. You can do mostly everything on the MINI w/o that extra step.
#9
I was focused on the DP, but it's most likely something with your IC connections
mQubed Motorsport, Manic Tuning Dealer
mQubed Motorsport, Manic Tuning Dealer
__________________
2013 GP2 #295, 270whp/310wtq, KO4 47mm Turbo, 18" NM Wheels, Alta intake, Manic Stage III+, HFS-3 Meth, 30% E85 Blend, Forged IC, Alta Hot Pipe, P&P/Ceramic Exhaust Manifold, m3 Extreme Ceramic DP, Vibrant mid res, 4" Double walled Tips, WMW/KW V3 CO, Alta Rear CA, CREE Fogs, Black out F/R Rings and Gas Cap, M7 CF Front Splitter, and No Stickers. MORE TO COME!! Previous 04Triple Black 17% Alta, MM Air/H2O, CAI, OBX Header, FBT Head, Shrick Cam, 234whp
2013 GP2 #295, 270whp/310wtq, KO4 47mm Turbo, 18" NM Wheels, Alta intake, Manic Stage III+, HFS-3 Meth, 30% E85 Blend, Forged IC, Alta Hot Pipe, P&P/Ceramic Exhaust Manifold, m3 Extreme Ceramic DP, Vibrant mid res, 4" Double walled Tips, WMW/KW V3 CO, Alta Rear CA, CREE Fogs, Black out F/R Rings and Gas Cap, M7 CF Front Splitter, and No Stickers. MORE TO COME!! Previous 04Triple Black 17% Alta, MM Air/H2O, CAI, OBX Header, FBT Head, Shrick Cam, 234whp
#10
An IC connection will really cause an instant limp mode? I could see it if it was a CEL w/ limp that came on a moment or two after the car had a chance to settle into idle, but this was instant - the car literally started in limp mode. Regardless, I know the post IC connection is good, but the pre side could possibly be off a bit as I felt that side was not as easy to seat.
I felt service mode was a godsend for doing the heatshields on the DP - granted I have not done one prior to this, but I could definitely see it being a major PITA without the extra space. Heatshields were actually one of the easiest parts of the job.
I felt service mode was a godsend for doing the heatshields on the DP - granted I have not done one prior to this, but I could definitely see it being a major PITA without the extra space. Heatshields were actually one of the easiest parts of the job.
#11
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