Drivetrain Daily Driver r53 MUST HAVE parts?
#1
Daily Driver r53 MUST HAVE parts?
Evening everyone,
I just wanted to get some opinions on what everyone thinks is pretty much a must have part or mod under the hood of the r53. Engine compartment, engine, performance only. I am going though my car from bonnet to boot starting with the engine/engine compartment and want to be sure not to miss anything essential or cool. Mind you this is my daily driver and "Barnaby" has 124,000 well maintained miles on him. Ready, set, GO!!
I just wanted to get some opinions on what everyone thinks is pretty much a must have part or mod under the hood of the r53. Engine compartment, engine, performance only. I am going though my car from bonnet to boot starting with the engine/engine compartment and want to be sure not to miss anything essential or cool. Mind you this is my daily driver and "Barnaby" has 124,000 well maintained miles on him. Ready, set, GO!!
#2
From what is already on Barnaby, I would add a cold air intake, JCW 380cc Fuel Injectors, then Flash the ECM and/or visit Helix for a Dyno tune.
A few other additions that could be added is the High Flow Exhaust starting with a nice header... and to top off under the bonnet a Strut Brace.
Motor on!
A few other additions that could be added is the High Flow Exhaust starting with a nice header... and to top off under the bonnet a Strut Brace.
Motor on!
#5
#6
#7
When all is said and done....
Pick up a "light-in-sight"... If you are tall, it will make traffic lights better...you can stop on the line and still see the light without bending you neck...
Not sure of the name...a few folks have made them...but there is a padded down tube pad, wrapped in leather (or get fully wrapped tubes)...makes it do you can rest you leg against it, and it feels soft, rather than hard plastic...
CRAVEN std....stops mushrooming....nuff said..
Ian auto window up/DSC track day module...get one used...
IMO get a 3m hood shield...hard plastic really...protect that newly painted hood and you can get it for the headlights too!! Keeps them clear!!
Good luck getting your car back!!
Pick up a "light-in-sight"... If you are tall, it will make traffic lights better...you can stop on the line and still see the light without bending you neck...
Not sure of the name...a few folks have made them...but there is a padded down tube pad, wrapped in leather (or get fully wrapped tubes)...makes it do you can rest you leg against it, and it feels soft, rather than hard plastic...
CRAVEN std....stops mushrooming....nuff said..
Ian auto window up/DSC track day module...get one used...
IMO get a 3m hood shield...hard plastic really...protect that newly painted hood and you can get it for the headlights too!! Keeps them clear!!
Good luck getting your car back!!
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#8
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iTrader: (10)
Replace the stock crank pulley with the ATI Damper, we see them break all the time and better to bite the bullet for it upfront rather than pay a tow bill. Plus it's a little lighter, and balances better so it's better for the engine long term.
http://www.waymotorworks.com/super-d...ulley-r53.html
http://www.waymotorworks.com/super-d...ulley-r53.html
#9
OK, once you get the bent car fixed, given your mileage, sticking to the engine bay as you've suggested, and roughly in this order:
1. Handle the known maintenance items: The normal stuff (oil, filters), change out that crank pulley as Way suggests, check/change serpentine belt, tensioner and idler pulley. If it hasn't been done, change the supercharger oil (a beast of a job, but while you're in that far inspect all vacuum hoses, clean everything, and replace waterpump & coolant hoses), check/change out the low speed fan resistor as they're known to go out. Check/change clutch. Make sure all gaskets are, umm, "gasketing" (no leaks).
2. Preventive maintenance: Check/correct strut tower mushrooming, consider installing strut plates to prevent recurrance. Check front struts and alignment, check brakes, check/replace flexible brake lines (OK, that's not technically engine bay, but you'll ahve the hood up for some of it...). Consider a strut bar - a noticable difference but subtle on most cars. No need for a larger front sway bar, really.
Then re-check your rubber, brakes, all bushings and suspension pieces. You should never add power before adding the ability to control it.
3. ONLY THEN have you earned the right to add performance and sound:
- A CAI wakes things up and gives you more "whine"
- consider a 15% pulley (but at your mileage ONLY do this if you've changed out the s-charger oil. Note that 17 and 19 are available, but IMHO it's a small incremental gain for reduced s-charger life, there will be folks who argue this).
- Your downpipe actually flows pretty well, so no real "need" to change that given the high cost of noise.
- A catback exhaust is fun but can get drone-y on long drives, modify this part with care (says the guy who's had over a dozen exhausts on his Mini before settling on the JCW).
Hope that helps! As you can tell, I'm a fan of "make it right before you make it fast".
1. Handle the known maintenance items: The normal stuff (oil, filters), change out that crank pulley as Way suggests, check/change serpentine belt, tensioner and idler pulley. If it hasn't been done, change the supercharger oil (a beast of a job, but while you're in that far inspect all vacuum hoses, clean everything, and replace waterpump & coolant hoses), check/change out the low speed fan resistor as they're known to go out. Check/change clutch. Make sure all gaskets are, umm, "gasketing" (no leaks).
2. Preventive maintenance: Check/correct strut tower mushrooming, consider installing strut plates to prevent recurrance. Check front struts and alignment, check brakes, check/replace flexible brake lines (OK, that's not technically engine bay, but you'll ahve the hood up for some of it...). Consider a strut bar - a noticable difference but subtle on most cars. No need for a larger front sway bar, really.
Then re-check your rubber, brakes, all bushings and suspension pieces. You should never add power before adding the ability to control it.
3. ONLY THEN have you earned the right to add performance and sound:
- A CAI wakes things up and gives you more "whine"
- consider a 15% pulley (but at your mileage ONLY do this if you've changed out the s-charger oil. Note that 17 and 19 are available, but IMHO it's a small incremental gain for reduced s-charger life, there will be folks who argue this).
- Your downpipe actually flows pretty well, so no real "need" to change that given the high cost of noise.
- A catback exhaust is fun but can get drone-y on long drives, modify this part with care (says the guy who's had over a dozen exhausts on his Mini before settling on the JCW).
Hope that helps! As you can tell, I'm a fan of "make it right before you make it fast".
#10
OK, once you get the bent car fixed, given your mileage, sticking to the engine bay as you've suggested, and roughly in this order:
1. Handle the known maintenance items: The normal stuff (oil, filters), change out that crank pulley as Way suggests, check/change serpentine belt, tensioner and idler pulley. If it hasn't been done, change the supercharger oil (a beast of a job, but while you're in that far inspect all vacuum hoses, clean everything, and replace waterpump & coolant hoses), check/change out the low speed fan resistor as they're known to go out. Check/change clutch. Make sure all gaskets are, umm, "gasketing" (no leaks).
2. Preventive maintenance: Check/correct strut tower mushrooming, consider installing strut plates to prevent recurrance. Check front struts and alignment, check brakes, check/replace flexible brake lines (OK, that's not technically engine bay, but you'll ahve the hood up for some of it...). Consider a strut bar - a noticable difference but subtle on most cars. No need for a larger front sway bar, really.
Then re-check your rubber, brakes, all bushings and suspension pieces. You should never add power before adding the ability to control it.
3. ONLY THEN have you earned the right to add performance and sound:
- A CAI wakes things up and gives you more "whine"
- consider a 15% pulley (but at your mileage ONLY do this if you've changed out the s-charger oil. Note that 17 and 19 are available, but IMHO it's a small incremental gain for reduced s-charger life, there will be folks who argue this).
- Your downpipe actually flows pretty well, so no real "need" to change that given the high cost of noise.
- A catback exhaust is fun but can get drone-y on long drives, modify this part with care (says the guy who's had over a dozen exhausts on his Mini before settling on the JCW).
Hope that helps! As you can tell, I'm a fan of "make it right before you make it fast".
1. Handle the known maintenance items: The normal stuff (oil, filters), change out that crank pulley as Way suggests, check/change serpentine belt, tensioner and idler pulley. If it hasn't been done, change the supercharger oil (a beast of a job, but while you're in that far inspect all vacuum hoses, clean everything, and replace waterpump & coolant hoses), check/change out the low speed fan resistor as they're known to go out. Check/change clutch. Make sure all gaskets are, umm, "gasketing" (no leaks).
2. Preventive maintenance: Check/correct strut tower mushrooming, consider installing strut plates to prevent recurrance. Check front struts and alignment, check brakes, check/replace flexible brake lines (OK, that's not technically engine bay, but you'll ahve the hood up for some of it...). Consider a strut bar - a noticable difference but subtle on most cars. No need for a larger front sway bar, really.
Then re-check your rubber, brakes, all bushings and suspension pieces. You should never add power before adding the ability to control it.
3. ONLY THEN have you earned the right to add performance and sound:
- A CAI wakes things up and gives you more "whine"
- consider a 15% pulley (but at your mileage ONLY do this if you've changed out the s-charger oil. Note that 17 and 19 are available, but IMHO it's a small incremental gain for reduced s-charger life, there will be folks who argue this).
- Your downpipe actually flows pretty well, so no real "need" to change that given the high cost of noise.
- A catback exhaust is fun but can get drone-y on long drives, modify this part with care (says the guy who's had over a dozen exhausts on his Mini before settling on the JCW).
Hope that helps! As you can tell, I'm a fan of "make it right before you make it fast".
#14
#15
I've had the Invidia N1 for a couple of years now and love it. Louder & lower than stock but by no means obnoxious, and no drone.
You might hit YouTube & search for vids & clips there to get an idea of what some different exhausts sound like. There are a lot of options out there, and each has his/her own favorite.
You might hit YouTube & search for vids & clips there to get an idea of what some different exhausts sound like. There are a lot of options out there, and each has his/her own favorite.
#16
I've had the Invidia N1 for a couple of years now and love it. Louder & lower than stock but by no means obnoxious, and no drone.
You might hit YouTube & search for vids & clips there to get an idea of what some different exhausts sound like. There are a lot of options out there, and each has his/her own favorite.
You might hit YouTube & search for vids & clips there to get an idea of what some different exhausts sound like. There are a lot of options out there, and each has his/her own favorite.
#18
After I get the whole front end put back together (accident) I think the next investment will surely be a rear sway bar as everyone says its the best bang for your $$
#19
Forgot two other things
1. check the alternator when you do the s-charger. I've seen 3 fail at the 75-110k mark. Used/rebuilt are inexpensive but get something good, as it takes a while to get to the alternator...
2. check your failure-prone PS engine mount. You can replace it with any number of RockAuto OE replacements, they're fine, or go with the urethane TSW style but remember that the TSW adds significant NVH, which is actually obnoxious in winter. I take mine out in winter and put the OE in when it's going to be consistently below 45 degrees.
Exhausts:
- JCW is very quiet, adds a few hp but not many, it's damn near OE but with a little growl
- Invidia is a slightly-louder JCW, friends have them and like them.
- Borla is about the best balance between great sound and low drone, I had a Borla Race and it was fantastic, the growl at 2100-2400RPM was fantastic and it mellowed nicely on the freeway
- ANY straight-back, (straight under the battery box, yes there's enough clearance), no matter what mufflers are used, will drone BADLY between 2900 and 3200RPM, right at 67-73MPH. Something to do with resonant frequencies on that length pipe. Avoid unless you're nearly completely deaf (or want to get there) and need the +13-15 hp we generated. Sounds FANTASTIC at full chat and anywhere outside 2700-3200, but beware... and no, this is not a case of "if it's too loud you're too old", it's just, well, too loud.
There's a huge exhaust thread on here somewhere in the FAQ's or stickies, I believe.
1. check the alternator when you do the s-charger. I've seen 3 fail at the 75-110k mark. Used/rebuilt are inexpensive but get something good, as it takes a while to get to the alternator...
2. check your failure-prone PS engine mount. You can replace it with any number of RockAuto OE replacements, they're fine, or go with the urethane TSW style but remember that the TSW adds significant NVH, which is actually obnoxious in winter. I take mine out in winter and put the OE in when it's going to be consistently below 45 degrees.
Exhausts:
- JCW is very quiet, adds a few hp but not many, it's damn near OE but with a little growl
- Invidia is a slightly-louder JCW, friends have them and like them.
- Borla is about the best balance between great sound and low drone, I had a Borla Race and it was fantastic, the growl at 2100-2400RPM was fantastic and it mellowed nicely on the freeway
- ANY straight-back, (straight under the battery box, yes there's enough clearance), no matter what mufflers are used, will drone BADLY between 2900 and 3200RPM, right at 67-73MPH. Something to do with resonant frequencies on that length pipe. Avoid unless you're nearly completely deaf (or want to get there) and need the +13-15 hp we generated. Sounds FANTASTIC at full chat and anywhere outside 2700-3200, but beware... and no, this is not a case of "if it's too loud you're too old", it's just, well, too loud.
There's a huge exhaust thread on here somewhere in the FAQ's or stickies, I believe.
#20
#21
Then try to diy stuff....often unbroken stuff...and mess it up...
Fix the broken stuff...do you basic mataining....and then add you parts...
Some are for comfort... Some for looks, some for performance, either handling or power.
Unfortunately many folks forget the first few, which IMO, might be very important in a daily driver....
Seemingly many folks want to go "need for speed, boy racer" even though they will be stuck in traffic... feel better cause they "could" go faster if only....
Lol...seriously, after a couple longer drives, post what things bug you or what you like...and then fix or mitigate the negatives, and improve the positives...just remember, its all about compromises in a daily driver...
For an exaust, look at the stratosphere/milteck if you have the $$$. Very nice.
Last edited by ZippyNH; 02-14-2015 at 01:43 AM. Reason: spelling
#22
#23
Well..so many folks are OCD on line... They read about things failing...
Then try to diy stuff....often unbroken stuff...and mess it up...
Fix the broken stuff...do you basic mataining....and then add you parts...
Some are for comfort... Some for looks, some for performance, either handling or power.
Unfortunately many folks forget the first few, which IMO, might be very important in a daily driver....
Seemingly many folks want to go "need for speed, boy racer" even though they will be stuck in traffic... feel better cause they "could" go faster if only....
Lol...seriously, after a couple longer drives, post what things bug you or what you like...and then fix or mitigate the negatives, and improve the positives...just remember, its all about compromises in a daily driver...
For an exaust, look at the stratosphere/milteck if you have the $$$. Very nice.
Then try to diy stuff....often unbroken stuff...and mess it up...
Fix the broken stuff...do you basic mataining....and then add you parts...
Some are for comfort... Some for looks, some for performance, either handling or power.
Unfortunately many folks forget the first few, which IMO, might be very important in a daily driver....
Seemingly many folks want to go "need for speed, boy racer" even though they will be stuck in traffic... feel better cause they "could" go faster if only....
Lol...seriously, after a couple longer drives, post what things bug you or what you like...and then fix or mitigate the negatives, and improve the positives...just remember, its all about compromises in a daily driver...
For an exaust, look at the stratosphere/milteck if you have the $$$. Very nice.
#24
I will admit I am very OCD as well but I don't go toying with stuff unless its broken, needs to be replaced, or I know it wont hurt my cars longevity. I want my barnaby to last me at least 250,000 I just hit 125,000 yesterday! That milteck sounds nice but I am still trying to debate a exhaust on my mini since its my daily...