Hey all,

Did some searching and only came up with very old posts dating years back.

Does anyone know of a oil filter relo kit available out there?

Ive found this which is under the R53 mini section, but also states its a "universal kit" so not sure if this would work or not?
http://scoobytuner.com/products/?vAp...productID=1701

I too had the nightmare of an oil change when I did my last (which was my first) oil change. The rubber o-ring was nicked when I screwed the cover back in, and ended up losing most of the oil all over the driveway.
So want to make it easier by installing a remote kit if I can.

Any help would be great please..

Matt

 

I think I would be interested in something like this too. After finding the filter housing, I'm wondering if there's a way to get in there to prevent any oil getting on to the front of the engine when I remove it...or if I have to remove the engine and turn it upside down? I'm starting to see why Mini charges $150 to do a change on a turbo model.

 

i get no oil on the engine when i do my own oil/filter change ... the trick is to loosen the filter cap so the oil can drain out into the engine

i remove the drain plug, then move the coolant res. and loosen the filter cover ... when the oil stops dripping from the drain plug, i remove the filter cover/filter and get no mess

 

User "onasled", if he's still on this forum, makes an oil filter bypass plate so folks can run their own plumbing and oil filter of choice elsewhere. They were selling for 80 bucks a year or two ago...







I'm not on FB, but this is him...

https://www.facebook.com/onasledracing?ref=hl

 

your MINI is over priced. MINI of Arlington TX $69.95

 

this question comes up every couple of years going back to around 2004 ... the short answer is no .... no one markets one.


The issue got complicated when a issue of the MOSS goody catalog for MINI showed a relocation kit. (MOSS is out of the MINI business today) I saw this and noted the picture was the same at that for a Miata ... and checked and the part number was ALSO the same. The filter locations and mounts were NOT the same and I firmly believe this to have been in error. Others disputed my opinion and I challenged the community at large to post pictures of the kit installed on a MINI. The kit never again appeared in a MOSS or any other goody catalog.


I did later find a source for parts that would allow one to build an adapter plate but that only solves part of the problem ... the other part is where to relocate to?


The relocation on the early Miata was desirable because the filter location was under the exhaust manifold. Changing from the top when the engine was hot was a PITA. Fortunately there was ample free space under the bonnet for re-location ... and the job was often combined with adding an oil-cooler.


On a GEN1 MINI? .... I dunno


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BMWR606: OP is having issues on a GEN1 ... you have a GEN2 .... the filter access issue is different . . . filters are in different places
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OP - the oil change - especially getting the filter can back on gets easier with practice. It will ALWAYS be a PITA because you are working nearly blind but here're my two hints.


First for removal - others have told you the right thing. Think about it ... the filter is sitting at the top of the sump facing down. It should be EMPTY. But there is a vacuum. So when the oil is draining, remove the fill cap ... and loosen the filter a turn or two ... slowly. and let it sit a few minutes. This should break the seal and allow the oil to fall down. I stuff a couple of paper towels around the filter can when I take it off after doing this and usually catch only a few drops as I wiggle the beast out of the hole (the guy that designed this should be shot btw)


When replacing the filter can the secret IMO is strong pressure. First, press the new filter into the can FIRMLY. OE filters fit TIGHT and to get them all the way seated takes some UMPH. If you don't do it b4 you start, you fight this resistance later. Then seat the can .. back turn until you feel the thread engagement and then press down FIRMLY while turning. PRESS and TURN .... PUSH. I quickly feel the rubber o-ring make contact and feel the difference as it 'slides' (you did lube the o-ring, right) I busted an o-ring in the early days and lubricated my garage floor ... after a 40 minute fight to get the can to seat. Now I can put 'em on first time, every time. Bonus Hint: let things cool enuf so you can wear a rubber glove ... it really helps with the grip.


************
Super Bonus: if you are going to DIY oil changes on a GEN1, do one of the following. Either replace the drain with a FUMOTO so you never again have to fool with the integrate plastic seal in the drain bolt (recommended)
http://www.qwikvalve.com/?utm_source...=search-fumoto
(get the one with the nipple and a piece of hose and do your changes cleaner too)


or, note that the drain bolt is 1/2 inch and NOT the recommended metric size. If that plastic POS sticks (you are really supposed to buy a new plug every oil change) a properly fitting wrench helps a bunch


here's a 1/2 wrench on a GEN1 bung ... see any slack?

Try the recommended metric ... heres a good bung and a mangled one after it got stuck and rounded from the wrong wrench and then subjected to an 'extractor'



GEN2 folks:


You do NOT want a Fumoto ... your drain faces straight down and uses a flush bunk with an allen wrench fitting. A fumoto would stick down BEGGING to be broken off.


You filter removal has the same draining issue. Your filter also should be empty as it also faces down ... but vacuum usually holds oil in the can .... so loosen it a couple of turns ... even so far as past the o-ring but DO NOT pull it yet. The oil will drain down to the pan. The longer you let it sit like this the less oil to drip from the filter when you actually pull the can.


(needing to move the coolant overflow tank in another example of GREAT design ....)

 

Mini of the Woodlands. I needed a replacement windshield, they wanted $1000. The dealer I bought it from (Momentum) wanted $560. Safelite was @ $400. I'm not surprised they are double elsewhere. I guess I'll just have to do it myself!

 

Finding a place to mount will be easy. Flatty is great at making brackets and coming up with ideas to mount things. Its just the adapter plate thats the pain in the butt part.

 

I'll pass on something I learned when I put a relocation kit on my first Miata. I mounted it to the firewall and thereafter I could hear the sound of fluid traveling thru the filter while driving the car. Mount it any where but the firewall.

 

Sorry for the n00b question, but where is that mounted?
Thats not where the factory oil filter is mounted is it??

 

Yes it is.....

 

Thank you, I will take your advice. I don't feel like paying them the $150. I've done it before on an N14 turbo engine (actually on every car I've owned in my life). I wonder if it's because mine is an fJCW, or is it because I bought the car from another dealer?

 

I don’t understand why anyone would want to relocate the oil filter. It seems like a solution to a problem that doesn’t exist while inventing new ones.

 

It isn't a problem when you can nick the one and only oil seal ring when trying to screw in a cap you can't see what your doing only to find half the engine oil all over the ground when it's too late?
I've done all my other cars in the past and enjoy it, and found it easy. But personally, I find these ones a real pain and just thought that relocating it would make life easier. That's just me thou.
I have the worlds worst luck lol.

 

Lube the heck out of the O-ring & you won't have problems with it. Problem solved.