Drivetrain Where is the horse power going?
#1
Where is the horse power going?
If anyone has insight on this it will be greatly welcomed.
Problem: when accelerating I am getting a loss of house power as I get to 3k rpms, from 2k to 3k it's normal but once I get to 3k I can throttle the gas but it doesn't want to excelerate even as much as it does at the lower rpms.
Now for some info. I recently did a full engine replacement with upgrades included. The engine is a low millage used engine. My SC already had a 15% pulley, I put on a ATI supper damper 2% crank pulley (making it effectively a 17% reduction for the SC) and JCW injectors, JCW cool spark plugs with new wires. I also replaced my fuel filter & valeo clutch along with hoses, gaskets & seals.
I also did a SC oil change. I reset my ECU.
I have a detroit tuned bypass valve coming but it is not here yet.
Problem: when accelerating I am getting a loss of house power as I get to 3k rpms, from 2k to 3k it's normal but once I get to 3k I can throttle the gas but it doesn't want to excelerate even as much as it does at the lower rpms.
Now for some info. I recently did a full engine replacement with upgrades included. The engine is a low millage used engine. My SC already had a 15% pulley, I put on a ATI supper damper 2% crank pulley (making it effectively a 17% reduction for the SC) and JCW injectors, JCW cool spark plugs with new wires. I also replaced my fuel filter & valeo clutch along with hoses, gaskets & seals.
I also did a SC oil change. I reset my ECU.
I have a detroit tuned bypass valve coming but it is not here yet.
#3
#4
My old engine with 200k miles was in need of a full rebuild after one of the exhaust valves edge chipped off. I still have my old engine and plan to do a full rebuild on it, it just wasn't cost effective at the time.
I have not done a tune on it yet, was hoping to have the dealer flash the JCW ECU but that was a no go.
I didn't replace the cat, but I will check that today.
I have not done a tune on it yet, was hoping to have the dealer flash the JCW ECU but that was a no go.
I didn't replace the cat, but I will check that today.
#5
#6
A set of jcw380's and a 17% reduction in my experience ran better than stock pull wise in the higher rpms.....not so much with 15% by most accounts....a tune from RMW did make mine pull harder, but even Jan said the 17% and unturned 380's while not optimal does OK (15% in the same situation is pig rich).
I would check the operation of the bypass valve....zip tie it closed and drive around the block....maybe the vacume lines on it are not connected right or it is leaking.....
Used motors are a bit of a pig-in-a-poke, but $$ wise the only real option due to high motor costs IMO....
I would look around....make sure you have no leaks, etc...the cat is a good think too look at too...the idea a failing motor ran rich, melted the cat, giving you issues at higher rpms make perfect sense....
I would check the operation of the bypass valve....zip tie it closed and drive around the block....maybe the vacume lines on it are not connected right or it is leaking.....
Used motors are a bit of a pig-in-a-poke, but $$ wise the only real option due to high motor costs IMO....
I would look around....make sure you have no leaks, etc...the cat is a good think too look at too...the idea a failing motor ran rich, melted the cat, giving you issues at higher rpms make perfect sense....
#7
I had thought about the bypass valve and tried zip tying it, but instead of getting an increase in horse power and sooner, it bogged down at even a lower rpms.
I disconnected the exhaust from the header but couldn't see much. taking it to a exhaust shop and going to have them cut it open.
I disconnected the exhaust from the header but couldn't see much. taking it to a exhaust shop and going to have them cut it open.
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#12
well I found the culprit. the pressure line that goes from the end of the intake manifold to the fuel rail popped off from the intake manifold, I tried zip tying the rubber peace onto the metal tube coming off of the intake manifold but that seemed to only work/hold the pressure for about 2 blocks. has anyone else had an issue with this little air line? what have you done to remedy it?
#13
#15
I wanted to post an update to all the people that help with this and to any that might have followed this post.
first I did a pressure test on the intake and found a couple of air leaks and corrected them (IC boots, valve cover gasket), but with no change.
I then when to my trusted Mini cooper mechanic (Portland Autohaus) and did a smoke test and found one more, but again with no change. he suggested rechecking the exhaust side again.
sure enough, I pulled off my exhaust manifold and the weld just before the flex section had given way and was barely holding together.
replaced it and now it runs like a bat out of hell
first I did a pressure test on the intake and found a couple of air leaks and corrected them (IC boots, valve cover gasket), but with no change.
I then when to my trusted Mini cooper mechanic (Portland Autohaus) and did a smoke test and found one more, but again with no change. he suggested rechecking the exhaust side again.
sure enough, I pulled off my exhaust manifold and the weld just before the flex section had given way and was barely holding together.
replaced it and now it runs like a bat out of hell
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