So I'm throwing all if these codes:
P0108
P0036
P2300
P2303
P1239
P0138
I was only throwing p0108 before I changed the MAP sensor, I also pulled off the coil packs and removed the spark plugs for a clean, and the coil pack is on straight and in the right order as well. The idle will actually drop enough to stall out the car, and the bucking is terrible in between 1-3k RPM. Hesitant on changing the T-MAP because I'm not positive that is it, anyone have any ideas how to fix this? I really need help, I'm at a total loss now.
Car is not stock, haven't done a leak test, but the intake is on fine--already checked--so is the intercooler, and breather tube. Again, please help me figure this out

 

well you have two codes related the O2 sensor voltage, and the rest have to do with your intake path MAP sensors it seems.

What was the PN on the sensor you replaced, and the location of that part?

(upstream or downstream map)

You could have ordered the wrong part....

Also, where did you get your map sensor from?

Car is not reading the correct signal, whatever it is.
(could also be a bug in the wiring)

how technically savvy are you?

Got a voltmeter and know how to use it?

 

sure you put the RIGHT sensor map/T-map in the right spot....When I had issues with a drop in RPMS too low at lights...and an imperfect idle...progressed to a "stumble/stutter" at about 3200 rpm...worse on warmer days...got a DSC light..then got a P0108....
it was a sigh of the T-MAP and or MAP sensors going bad....
Might be worth it to yank it and clean it...if you do a Google search...you can find the BMW TIS info on how the system works, and the symptoms of a failure....
The r53 uses a R50 t-map, using only the MAP part as a sensor on the cold side, and a r53 specfic T-Map on the hotside, on the front of the intake....
Just to point out...I did not get that code...but the symptoms matched.....matched EXACTLY what the BMW/MINI TIS sheet describes as the symptoms on the sheet for a failing map/Tmap.....
I found the OEM parts for $77 each from a MINI dealer online...
Eminiparts.com..sister dealer to a vendor MINIpartsmass.com....
Some others also do a 15% discount on websales....
the aftermarket parts were as much as 3X the amount....so watch out!
The two part # are 12-14-0-872-679...hot side r53 tmap...on the intake
and 12-14-0-872-648 ..cold side r53 MAP+r50 t-MAP..next to the head/air-filter area..

 

The two sensors are NOT the same...
The limits are VERY different...
But when I did searches...MANY PARTS SITES list them as the SAME PART NUMBER....
THE R53 DOES use the same MAP as the r50, but next to the head by the airfilter...by the thermostat on the cold side....
the HOT SIDE T-MAP is a R53 SPECIFIC part screwed into the from of the intake...

 

Limits from the BMW/MINI info is max 36.25943 for the hotside t-map, and 17.40453 PSI on the cold side.....
If you look the cold side is a TMAP..but only has 3 wires..the temp sensor is not used...the hot side has 4 wires...so they PHYSICALLY van be swapped...but the car will NOT RUN...or will do what yours does...I tried it...when I was troubleshooting!!

 

what zippy NH and I both said re the part numbers is very much key.


To put into dumbed down technical terms as to how the system works,


All sensors (well.. most.. assume all for this) output a 0-5v signal that some system (in this case the ECU) has to read.

This is all sensors, from the temperature sensor in your front bumper, to both of your map sensors, to your 02 sensors, everything, puts out a 0-5V signal
(this is not a full stop truth, but accurate in most cases. our cars may not use 0-5v for 02, but just roll with it)


So,

How does the car distinguish what means what?!

Well it has to be calibrated, duh!

so on a narrowband, 0V cooresponds to 13:1 AFR, and 5V corresponds to 16.5 AFR (just made up numbers)

on the upsteam map, which reads only 0-1.2 Bar absolute

The sensor will output 0V when it sees a complete vacuum (most likely 29.5mm Hg or something.. but close enough) and 5V when it sees 1.2 Bar.


now compared to the downstream map which is a 0-2.5 bar sensor!
it outputs
0V at vacuum
and
5V at 2.5 bar!

so if you are sitting at idle and only pulling .6 bar

the upstream sensor would be outputting 2.5V
while the downstream sensor is outputting 1.2V!

if you had these sensors switched,

The car would THINK!
that the SC tube (upsteam map) was seeing .288 bar ( 4.23psi A or ~-10.5 psiG! )
while your downstream TMAP would be saying that it saw 1.25 bar or 18.375 psiA (3.675 psiG), and seeing as those numbers should be the same... well.. the car is understandably confused.

Even if just one sensor was the wrong type, you can see why that causes quite the issue.

Nice thing about the ViPEC is you can change these scales.
My upstream map failed one day, so I just slotted in a TMAP from downstream and told the ecu that location now held a 2.5bar mini sensor, and everything works fine :3

OE ecu's are not so fortunate however :/

 

Yeah, I replaced the map sensor on the side near the intake, not the one right behind the radiator shroud, both of which have been cleaned and some wiring checked, idk the part number on the new sensor, it is a duralast that advanced auto parts ordered, I'll check the part number when I get home, and the O2 sensor voltage reading one, when I read the code on a scanguage from advanced it said it was within my coilpack, which could happen because it was off, but I put it back on perfectly

 

it would only be the coil pack if it was a missfire, and the engine would have output a missfire code.

Those codes are for o2 sensor voltage errors (way lean or way rich, most likely due to your car thinking it is getting volume X of air, but it is actually recieving Y due to you have the wrong map sensor)

fyi: NEVER EVER EVER get your bmw/mini sensors from advance.
Sad fact of life, but they just do not hold up. Get them from your favorite aftermarket parts supplier (tuning shop, ECS, pelican parts)

and make sure you have the correct parts.

I know it is tempting to get the cheaper part, but believe me, I have caused a lot of damage to my mini in the past (when I was a broke college student) by trying to "cheap out" and it ends up costing me more in the long run. I now live by the motto "do it right, the first time".


A quick check is just unplug that map sensor.

The car will run fine without it as it just defaults to a speed density setup (this is how a lot of the turbo conversion guys do it on their OE ECU minis)

If that fixes it (or most of it) after doing a full reset (you will get a code for that sensor not being there) then you know it was the sensor.


ALSO!
NEVER CLEAN YOUR MAP SENSORS WITH THE CRAP YOU GET AT AUTOZONE!
Most of that is MAF cleaner anyways, and if you read the fine print it is not safe for use on MAP sensors.

I have tanked a few of these myself this way.

 

Auto zone wanted about $240 for a map....Napa 140...mini was $115 walk in price...$77 internet.
It is a 3 day special order part from mini..both were in my case anyway.
Rock auto did have a cold side one for $55...but did not list the hotside...
If you searched by OEM.. Number...they did have a wells brand outside for $77...same as OEM online ...several list OEM for $90+, aftermarket for less...but for motors sensors, go OEM IMO.
Keep us posted.

 

Do you have the part number of the part sold to you....I almost fell over when I saw the price when I checked...
One trick....
If it says it can be used in a r50 or a land rover...it is the cold side...Wells su6562 is a cold side # too.
The alternate airtex/wells hotside t-map # is 5s2566 ....some say # sa6565 is OK...but like I said go OEM if you can...
What do you have for mods....
One post when I did my research said he got similar p00108 codes from a melted cat...makes sense...

 

I am running catless* being a super high flow race cat, it does practically nothing

 

So I read somewhere that you can just unplug the 2 sensors, and the car will go into speed density more or something along those lines, is this consistent? Does anyone know if it'll work? Also, the idle stays normal for now, until the car warms up, then it drops so low sometimes it stalls the car out, it also bucks at low rpm's pretty violently, I'm about to check the voltage on both sensor wires to make sure it isn't grounding out, but after I do that, I'm out of idea's? I don't want to pull the motor, because I'm trying to sell it, but I'm not about to screw over some kid who buys it, so I want it to run perfectly before it's gone

 

Also, I'm still confused, the part number last 3 digits 648 is that the sensors that's by the intake/air box? And 679 is behind the radiator shroud?

 

you read it above in one of my posts.

NOT BOTH SENSORS!

just the upstream one (the one located next to your thermostat, not the one on the intake manifold)

And again,

This only works if the one in your intake manifold is a good, working, correct sensor.

Do you have a scanguage?
If so, what psi is it reading at idle? (not a boost gauge, I want it from the ECU (OBDII port) )

 

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ng-solved.html

I updated my other post...worth a read for ya!!

 

So the map sensor is fixed, but somehow the flex pipe on my headers broke, so tomorrow I'm getting a larger one, and welding it in. The sensor got fixed doing the pull of 1 sensor, both are back in and it's fixed, but somehow my battery was disconnected and my dumb@$$ friend reset my ecu, so I have a bunch of mods on a stock tune

 

word to the wise, the only flex sections I have ever gotten to hold up for more than a year are the ones with an accordion style bellow in the middle. As far as I know, vibrant is the only company that sells them. Problem is they only sell stainless.

if you weld stainless to mild, it causes an isoelectic point and the joint will be subjugated to advanced rates of corrosion.

and seeing as flex sections are already the weak point... it doesn't usually end to well. (another hole)


just sort of a PSA i guess...

THEY NEED TO BE TIG WELDED AS WELL!
(to make sure you actually penetrate and melt that bellows layer to the connecting pipe, and not just melting metal surface to surface as is often done on mig (most people tend to run mig too cold)

 

And one more thing...
You do NOT LOOSE A TUNE BY RESETING THE ECU...now if you had a standalone ecu...whole different story...but the stock box uses stored maps....
It is firmware....once flashed...it Is there till reflashed. Period. Leaving a battery off will not change a tune.

 

if you tap the battery terminals together, I've always known--at least with Subarus, Mitsubishis etc...--that resets your ECU losing the tune, although it's a stock ECU if you are open-sourced--ie no flash tool--it resets your ECU back to stock. But it'll be fine, it runs great, just rich now, but I'm selling it with 660cc injectors, so all the buyer has to do is buy a flash tool and a tune from jan or whomever

 

Has anybody actually found out what causes these cars from throwing the P2300/P2303/P0171 codes? Since I've bought my mini the car randomly stutters and bucks at idle. I've had the car for almost 2 years now and it just recently started sending these codes. P0171 is a lean code which I assume would be from my 17% pulley and no tune which I'm working on getting tuned. It started sending codes usually during long drives while the car is under load (uphill) and maintaining 40-60% throttle. It's my daily driver so after a couple drives it goes off by itself and won't come back until I take another long drive. Any suggestions would be welcome. I will be taking it to get reset by an independent shop and hopefully they can find a solution. I just don't want them to start recommending parts that won't solve the problem.