Drivetrain Stuck in turbo H*&L!
#1
Stuck in turbo H*&L!
2009 Cooper S Clubman (everything stock except brakes)
So I just got back from the mechanic today after finding out that I've blown my second turbo in 52K miles. The first time the replacement was done during the bmw maintenance period while under warranty (30K miles in 2011). This time I'm 2K miles outside of my warranty and I didn't keep meticulous service records after I quit using the BMW service department so it probably wouldn't have been covered anyways. I've learned a lot from these boards and know enough to believe the reason I've blown it twice was most likely due to low oil flow because no one ever told me I had to check my oil every 500 miles or so. I was always under the impression that as long as you change your oil every 3000 miles you were golden. Apparently that isn't so with this car since I'm at about 2500 miles since the last change and I was 3 quarts low when they checked this morning.
Since I'm going to have to replace the turbo I was wondering if it would be a good time to go ahead and get some sort of upgrade. I've been told that I could put a JCW turbo on there and that it's straight bolt on with no other work necessary (not even a tune.) Can anyone confirm that? Have any of you done it? Is there something better than the JCW turbo that I can do for not a whole lot more money?
Also, does anyone have a recommendation about where to buy from? I see them on the internet for as low as $600, but every mechanic in my area is quoting me about $1700 for the part alone.
So I just got back from the mechanic today after finding out that I've blown my second turbo in 52K miles. The first time the replacement was done during the bmw maintenance period while under warranty (30K miles in 2011). This time I'm 2K miles outside of my warranty and I didn't keep meticulous service records after I quit using the BMW service department so it probably wouldn't have been covered anyways. I've learned a lot from these boards and know enough to believe the reason I've blown it twice was most likely due to low oil flow because no one ever told me I had to check my oil every 500 miles or so. I was always under the impression that as long as you change your oil every 3000 miles you were golden. Apparently that isn't so with this car since I'm at about 2500 miles since the last change and I was 3 quarts low when they checked this morning.
Since I'm going to have to replace the turbo I was wondering if it would be a good time to go ahead and get some sort of upgrade. I've been told that I could put a JCW turbo on there and that it's straight bolt on with no other work necessary (not even a tune.) Can anyone confirm that? Have any of you done it? Is there something better than the JCW turbo that I can do for not a whole lot more money?
Also, does anyone have a recommendation about where to buy from? I see them on the internet for as low as $600, but every mechanic in my area is quoting me about $1700 for the part alone.
#6
So I've looked at the Chilton manual and this looks relatively easy to swap out. I can't find a DIY anywhere on the NAM site so I'm guessing that backs up that theory. Is there some major "gotcha" that I'm going to run in to that I just don't see?
I know I've called at least 4 shops now and they all want between $600-$800 to do this, so it can't be too easy.
I know I've called at least 4 shops now and they all want between $600-$800 to do this, so it can't be too easy.
#7
I think that it is pretty difficult to get at some of the bolts between the turbo and manifold. I have not done it myself, but remember reading that some remove the exhaust manifold and turbo as an assembly.
There should be some threads here describing what is required. If you have a good selection of tools and patience, then tackle it. If you get frustrated or overwhelmed, then you should pay others.
Have fun,
Mike
There should be some threads here describing what is required. If you have a good selection of tools and patience, then tackle it. If you get frustrated or overwhelmed, then you should pay others.
Have fun,
Mike
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#8
#9
I'm not trying to be a jerk here, but do you think that your really up to the task upgrading the turbo and the potential headaches that are associated with it? You let the car go 3 QUARTS low in oil, lucky you aren't replacing the engine.
Stick with the plug and play stock turbo and take better care of the car.
Stick with the plug and play stock turbo and take better care of the car.
#11
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2013 GP2 #295, 270whp/310wtq, KO4 47mm Turbo, 18" NM Wheels, Alta intake, Manic Stage III+, HFS-3 Meth, 30% E85 Blend, Forged IC, Alta Hot Pipe, P&P/Ceramic Exhaust Manifold, m3 Extreme Ceramic DP, Vibrant mid res, 4" Double walled Tips, WMW/KW V3 CO, Alta Rear CA, CREE Fogs, Black out F/R Rings and Gas Cap, M7 CF Front Splitter, and No Stickers. MORE TO COME!! Previous 04Triple Black 17% Alta, MM Air/H2O, CAI, OBX Header, FBT Head, Shrick Cam, 234whp
2013 GP2 #295, 270whp/310wtq, KO4 47mm Turbo, 18" NM Wheels, Alta intake, Manic Stage III+, HFS-3 Meth, 30% E85 Blend, Forged IC, Alta Hot Pipe, P&P/Ceramic Exhaust Manifold, m3 Extreme Ceramic DP, Vibrant mid res, 4" Double walled Tips, WMW/KW V3 CO, Alta Rear CA, CREE Fogs, Black out F/R Rings and Gas Cap, M7 CF Front Splitter, and No Stickers. MORE TO COME!! Previous 04Triple Black 17% Alta, MM Air/H2O, CAI, OBX Header, FBT Head, Shrick Cam, 234whp
#12
I'm not trying to be a jerk here, but do you think that your really up to the task upgrading the turbo and the potential headaches that are associated with it? You let the car go 3 QUARTS low in oil, lucky you aren't replacing the engine. Stick with the plug and play stock turbo and take better care of the car.
#13
#14
#16
I'm not trying to be a jerk here, but do you think that your really up to the task upgrading the turbo and the potential headaches that are associated with it? You let the car go 3 QUARTS low in oil, lucky you aren't replacing the engine.
Stick with the plug and play stock turbo and take better care of the car.
Stick with the plug and play stock turbo and take better care of the car.
Secondly, I'm not intending to upgrade the turbo with anything that is going to REQUIRE modifications be added or a tune be done right now to prevent CELs. I think maybe you misread my post or read into something that wasn't there. I'm not looking to turn this into a track car. I'm only asking because I MUST replace this turbo, and if I can get a better part that gives me a few more HP for little to no effort and money I might as well do it. Re-read my post and I think you'll see I was mostly asking for someone to confirm that I could bolt on a JCW turbo with "no other work necessary (not even a tune.)". I did the same thing when I had to change my brakes the first time outside of the free maintenance. Instead of just putting the stock parts on, I went ahead and replaced the parts with DBA 4000 slotted rotors, EBC Redstuff pads, and steel brake lines. I paid less for the upgraded parts than it would have cost me to have a brake place put the crappy parts back on. As far as I can tell from the research I've done, I CAN bolt a remanufactured JCW turbo on there and it will run exactly as the stock maybe even better, then I can choose to get a tune to increase the HP and make better use of the upgraded turbo later, or not. The price of the reman. JCW turbo is the same as the reman. stock on jmturbocoopers website. Why would I want to go back to stock when I could upgrade it for the exact same price and it works exactly the same with more potential?
GPOP says they can rebuild it stock for $350 or upgrade it to a K04 for $700 and that would still be straight bolt on with no complications. The only problem there is I'd be without my car for 3 weeks (7 days shipping each way, plus a week for him to rework it)
Raygunzap, no I don't believe the dealer replaced the cat when the turbo was replaced. I don't recall seeing that on the repair sheet and I'm sure I would have noticed the extra $1500 above the $4500 turbo replacement. JMTurboCoopers definitely recommends it and I'm looking at replacing the downpipe with cat as well since I'm going to have it in service mode anyways (I want more space to work with) and it's only like another $200 for insurance that the backpressure isn't going to ruin the next one too. I have another thread where I've asked about that.
Thank you everyone for your advice and opinions. I have learned a lot from NAM that I wish I would have known years ago. I'm no expert, and I'm amazed at how much you all know. That is why I came here to seek your advice.
#17
There is more to swapping turbos that just bolting them on. There are going to be things that people don't tell you, they'll just assume you know. Like, periodically check your oil.
I've read reports of CELs due to the turbo not spooling as anticipated. The ECU is expecting one thing and other happens because of the differences in the characteristics of the turbo. It seems that just recently people are having some success (and still a lot of headaches) with other than stock turbos.
If this is a daily driver I think you looking for a headache.
I've read reports of CELs due to the turbo not spooling as anticipated. The ECU is expecting one thing and other happens because of the differences in the characteristics of the turbo. It seems that just recently people are having some success (and still a lot of headaches) with other than stock turbos.
If this is a daily driver I think you looking for a headache.
#18
I'm actually in the middle of an MCS to JCW turbo swap:
I paid $1015.75 shipped to my door from here (used discount coupon):
http://www.turbochargerpros.com/parts/40-30091_OH.html
Reasons for going with new JCW turbo:
- I know it's new from the manufacturer. Not saying a refurb from 3rd party wouldn't work well, but it was peace of mind I wanted (if you knew the PIA it is to remove and install a turbo on these cars, you might want peace of mind too haha)
- It has a brand new wastegate. From what I read, most 3rd parties who refurb turbos do not replace the wastegate, which can be a PIA for tuners and owners to compensate for.
- IMO, aftermarket turbos have not been fully sorted out in the tuning world. JCWs on an MCS has.
- I still wanted to maintain the fun-ness of the car. I only wanted a bit more power, not the power or lag of some of these aftermarket solutions.
As for how hard/easy the install is... if you are somewhat handy, it'll take you a weekend. Well at least that's how long I'll need (stopped short when I realized I needed new studs to mate the exhaust manifold to the new turbo). It's not something to be taken lightly... at least I have not. Haha. Removing the exhaust manifold bolts were a PIA, if I had removed the foil covered oil hose from the bottom of the turbo earlier in the process I could of accessed some of those exhaust manifold bolts easier. Even still it's tight. I have no idea how folks can get in there without putting the car in service mode. With 87k on my car, it won't fully go into service mode... The front subframe is kind of rusted and the front of the car won't slide out.
Also FWIW, Bentley can kiss mine... the process for getting into service mode is completely different in the manual vs. what they posted online:
GL!
I paid $1015.75 shipped to my door from here (used discount coupon):
http://www.turbochargerpros.com/parts/40-30091_OH.html
Reasons for going with new JCW turbo:
- I know it's new from the manufacturer. Not saying a refurb from 3rd party wouldn't work well, but it was peace of mind I wanted (if you knew the PIA it is to remove and install a turbo on these cars, you might want peace of mind too haha)
- It has a brand new wastegate. From what I read, most 3rd parties who refurb turbos do not replace the wastegate, which can be a PIA for tuners and owners to compensate for.
- IMO, aftermarket turbos have not been fully sorted out in the tuning world. JCWs on an MCS has.
- I still wanted to maintain the fun-ness of the car. I only wanted a bit more power, not the power or lag of some of these aftermarket solutions.
As for how hard/easy the install is... if you are somewhat handy, it'll take you a weekend. Well at least that's how long I'll need (stopped short when I realized I needed new studs to mate the exhaust manifold to the new turbo). It's not something to be taken lightly... at least I have not. Haha. Removing the exhaust manifold bolts were a PIA, if I had removed the foil covered oil hose from the bottom of the turbo earlier in the process I could of accessed some of those exhaust manifold bolts easier. Even still it's tight. I have no idea how folks can get in there without putting the car in service mode. With 87k on my car, it won't fully go into service mode... The front subframe is kind of rusted and the front of the car won't slide out.
Also FWIW, Bentley can kiss mine... the process for getting into service mode is completely different in the manual vs. what they posted online:
GL!
#20
I'm not trying to be a jerk here, but do you think that your really up to the task upgrading the turbo and the potential headaches that are associated with it? You let the car go 3 QUARTS low in oil, lucky you aren't replacing the engine.
Stick with the plug and play stock turbo and take better care of the car.
Stick with the plug and play stock turbo and take better care of the car.
Keep the car reliable
#21
Was about to say that. I mean this in the friendliest way but more power requires more attention by the owner. Your first post reveals your background and maintenance habits. You should not lean on a manual to tell you about when to check your fluids. That is just part of owning something with an engine.
Keep the car reliable
Keep the car reliable
I think I've sent some of you down the wrong road thinking I'm a neglectful owner who doesn't maintain his car. You're getting that because I said that after some initial reading I thought it might have been the 3 qts low oil that caused the failure. What is more likely is that a faulty turbo is causing the rapid oil consumption. No one has bothered to mention that, but given that the previous failed turbo was replaced without the cat being replaced it's likely there could have been issues for thousands of miles. In any case, I'm pretty sure at least a quart the oil burned off on the highway when the turbo did finally fail (smoke everywhere). 3qts burned oil in 2500 miles is not normal or ok and that is not something you can blame on someone for being neglectful regardless of what the situation.
I've ordered my parts and should get them in the middle of next week. I got myself:
JMTurboCoopers - JCW Borg Warner Refurbished Turbo
JMTurboCoopers - Oil Line and gasket set
CNT 200 CELL Downpipe
Big Daddis Garagage Mini CAT 02 Simulator:
I also got my bentley manual and some various tools to do the job. So far I'm still about $1400 under what I was quoted for the stock replacement at the cheapest of 6 mechanics I called, and that was just for the turbo...no cat or oil line. I'm almost $3,000 under the dealership...
I'll let you know how it goes
#23
I'm still working on mine. It's a slow process since I'm a family man (4 kids) and this is a fun/2nd car. I have it up on jack stands with the radiator supports pulled out (service mode.) The oil and coolant are drained. That's as far as I've gotten so far. I'll update everyone when I'm done. I can tell you this for sure right now though...that Bentley manual is a P.O.S. In the 10 pages I've needed thus far there have been ample errors or ommissions.
#24
I get what you're trying to say, but it's not like replacing it with another OEM S turbo vs. a JCW turbo is going to make the car harder/easier to maintain. Do you honestly believe that choosing the OEM S turbo is going to make the car more reliable? I think I've sent some of you down the wrong road thinking I'm a neglectful owner who doesn't maintain his car. You're getting that because I said that after some initial reading I thought it might have been the 3 qts low oil that caused the failure. What is more likely is that a faulty turbo is causing the rapid oil consumption. No one has bothered to mention that, but given that the previous failed turbo was replaced without the cat being replaced it's likely there could have been issues for thousands of miles. In any case, I'm pretty sure at least a quart the oil burned off on the highway when the turbo did finally fail (smoke everywhere). 3qts burned oil in 2500 miles is not normal or ok and that is not something you can blame on someone for being neglectful regardless of what the situation. I've ordered my parts and should get them in the middle of next week. I got myself: JMTurboCoopers - JCW Borg Warner Refurbished Turbo JMTurboCoopers - Oil Line and gasket set CNT 200 CELL Downpipe Big Daddis Garagage Mini CAT 02 Simulator: I also got my bentley manual and some various tools to do the job. So far I'm still about $1400 under what I was quoted for the stock replacement at the cheapest of 6 mechanics I called, and that was just for the turbo...no cat or oil line. I'm almost $3,000 under the dealership... I'll let you know how it goes
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