What is your reasoning for wanting to do this?

 

After spending countless hours researching water/meth injection, I believe that adding a nozzle in the intake manifold would have a greater effect on cylinder cooling than injecting before the iat sensor. With the dual nozzle you'd have the cooler iat reading from the nozzle before the sensor and hopefully better cylinder cooling with the nozzle in the intake manifold. That's at least the theory that I'm working on.

 

I talked to Jeff at Howerton Engineering and he advised against it.

 

I wonder why?

I'm thinking that multiple jets is really not necessary for our low HP cars and just adds complexity.

 

If you inject at the intake manifold with just one jet there isn't enough time to evenly distribute the meth mixture to all 4 cylinders. Jeff would recommend then doing a direct port injection (1nozzle per intake port) to evenly distribute it to all 4 cylinders but he said its pointless unless we produce at least 350+hp.

 

There's really no point, 1 is enough.

The RMW GP is pushing 430ish to the wheels and it's only on a 1 nozzle set up.

....that should give you an idea of how effective it is.

 

My HFS-4 kit arrived today!!

 

Is it installed yet?

 

The CTS V tank that Jeff trimmed fits perfectly in the lower storage area of the countryman.

 

That looks sweet. My HSF-4 system has been working great so far. We are taking my Mini on a week long road trip and I'm hoping nothing goes wrong.

 

Got all the wires ran from the back to the front. Things are a little different on the R60 but overall everything is going smooth. I figured I would do it in stages since I am in no rush.

 

I'm using 95% methanol and recorded a run with DashCommand/iPhone. The quality not very good compared to the laptop and the temperatures lag because it's not possible to set the priority levels in DashCommand.

Ended up seeing 23 F below ambient under boost and eventually the temperature dropped all the way to 30 F below ambient. I had to cut the run abruptly short (other cars got in the way) so I believe that I probably could have gotten to 40 F below ambient.

I need to do more logging, but it seems that 95% methanol cools better (faster) than 80%. At 80% I was only seeing a drop of about 20 F.

 

Much better data-logging today with the laptop. Solid 4th gear pull.

 

Curious about timing? Where are you on the JB?

 

Right now I'm still at 50% on the JB+. Eventually I might increase the JB+ but I'm not anxious for the few extra HP and 50% is a nice comfortable setting. With the JB+ turned up to say 70%-80%, I'd have to hook up the failsafes which I haven't done yet and really don't want to.

I do monitor timing occasionally and when I do it always seems to be ok, i.e. drops to some value (usually between 0-5) then stays steady at that value. The problem with timing is that I don't know what it should be reading given the conditions at the time. It would be nice to have KR counters in our cars.

Next week I'll go 100% methanol, then down to maybe 50% methanol to see which is better.

I will be installing the DV+ from Go Fast Bits this weekend.

 

No need for the fail safe....just keep your eye on that LED that notifies you when you're running low.

 

I believe he meant if you are tuned for meth, the fail safe would be needed/preferred. Especially if you are bumping up the JB.

 

Why does it seem like getting the intercooler pipe out to drill and tap seems like it is going to be a PITA? Any suggestions?

 

You don't remove it. Drill and tap in place.

 

Your observation is correct it's a total PITA. I remove of the in side and out side horn when I did mine as I installed temperature sensors in both.

The removal and installation process of those two horns probably took me a good four hours on a Saturday

I've been told by several people that they just drilled and tapped in place, I understand they did this by installing a rag into the horn greasing the tap and the drill heavily to catch particles.

 

Sounds like you have an R53, I have a R56/R60.

 

Did you put something in the pipe from the top? I was thinking blue painters tape on a flexible wire. Jeff suggested the blue tape.

 

I disconnected the pipe where it comes from the intercooler, then I drilled the hole, careful the bit can corkscrew and you'll accidentally drill through the other side. After I tapped the hole, I used compressed air to blow any shavings out. To do this remove the T-MAP sensor and blow back toward the intercooler. You will see a bunch of black plastic fall onto the ground.

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gasoline_gallon_equivalent
I would take it easy on the 100% meth. While it has a lower flash point giving you the cooler effect it will lean out the cylinders and if you dont believe me add some to your lawn mower and note the difference. The water slowes down the flash point.
JMHO

 

I'm under the impression the methanol injection will actually tend to make you run rich and here's why:

1.) The methanol is sprayed into the intake and is in addition to the fuel from the gas tank being sprayed directly into the cylinder.

2.) The DME which monitors lambda will increase or decrease fuel flow (fuel trims) from the gas tank to hit the target value. In the case of methanol injection I'd imagine that the DME would need to reduce flow from the gas tank to account for the added fuel from the methanol spray.

3.) Methanol injection is unlike using ethanol blend in the fuel tank which can make you lean out if you blend to much and the DME runs out of trim.

This brings up another question that I have been wondering about, using ethanol blend and methanol spray together, if my thinking is correct then using both seems like a good idea without having to worry about running out of fuel trims.