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Drivetrain Dash Command data log graphs

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  #101  
Old 12-02-2013, 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by pepperwhiteknight
Do you want me to send a data file from dashcommand iOS?
Are you trying to use a laptop with scanxl to talk directly to the car?
Curious about this as well. I thought you had to log with DashCommand, then use ScanXL to read the data.
 
  #102  
Old 12-02-2013, 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Mindspin311
Curious about this as well. I thought you had to log with DashCommand, then use ScanXL to read the data.
You can use ScanXL directly.

I use both but think the graphs logged from ScanXL are less stair-stepped than the ones logged from DashCommand.

I'll be logging a run a little later tonight with the laptop and ScanXL.
 
  #103  
Old 12-02-2013, 06:41 PM
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Ah, via a bluetooth enabled laptop?

I wonder if my Evolve connector will work via USB.
 
  #104  
Old 12-02-2013, 07:46 PM
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Here's a graph that was taken directly with my laptop and ScanXL. Not a very good 3rd gear run...I really need to find a road to do a 4th gear run.

For some reason the gear PID is not working (works with DashCommand though)

BTW the run was with the JB+ set at 6 or 1 o'clock.

 

Last edited by cerenkov; 12-02-2013 at 08:08 PM.
  #105  
Old 12-04-2013, 05:25 AM
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Originally Posted by pepperwhiteknight
Yes definitely. We would also have to agree on a test method too. Ex: flat land, 3rd gear, 3000 rpm to red line, 5 runs take the average. Regardless of the validity of the hp and torque calculations of the app any assistance would be appreciated in picking the best numbers for...
  • brake specific fuel consumption (most confusing because it is not really a constant)
  • Drag coefficients
  • Frontal area
The brake specific fuel consumption setting adjusts the hp and torque calculation up and down. Per this post, "Our horsepower calculation relies on the BSFC setting and the calculated fuel flow (which uses MAF, or MAP and VE is MAF isn't available). Increasing the BSFC setting will lower the calculated HP". If nothing is entered it defaults to 0.44 (I get crazy high numbers. ex: 248 hp and 282 ft-lbs). Palmer recommends 0.50 to 0.60 for turbo charged cars (I have been using 0.50 and the numbers seem plausible. ex: 202 hp and 208 ft-lbs). Only found one article listing the minimum BSFC as, "348g/kWh at 2000rpm/2bar BMEP". I think this converts to 0.57 lb/hph. This page gives general BSFC numbers for different types of engines.

My Dashcommand iOS vehicle settings:
Engine displacement: 1598cc (owner manual)
Fuel type: Gasoline
Fuel tank capacity: 13.2 gal (owner manual)
Brake specific fuel consumption: .50
Tire size specification: 205/45R17
Final drive ratios: (NAM VIN Decoder)
  • Axle ratio: 3.65
  • 1st gear: 3.31
  • 2nd gear: 2.13
  • 3rd gear: 1.48
  • 4th gear: 1.14
  • 5th gear: 0.95
  • 6th gear: 0.82
  • 7th gear: nothing entered
Curb weight: 2668 lb (owner manual)
Additional weight: 150 lb (my weight)
Drag coefficients: 0.36 (here)
Frontal area: 1.99 square meters (here)
Maximum engine speed: 6500 rpm
Minimum engine speed: 700 rpm
Before I go through this process (BIG thanks to PWK for posting this). Has anyone gathered the data for a '12 CM all4?

Thanks and I'll be up and running tonight
 
  #106  
Old 12-05-2013, 10:49 AM
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Have not seen any posted. Found the following last week, updated my original post.
Drag coefficients: Hardtop 0.36, Clubman 0.34, Countryman 0.36 (From the TheCheatOSX's service bulletin database here, SIM000210)

Cerenkov,
Hope this helps. Page 30 of attached the CALC PID reference document from the Palmer website.
 
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CALC_PID_Reference.pdf (1.19 MB, 322 views)
  #107  
Old 12-05-2013, 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by pepperwhiteknight
Have not seen any posted. Found the following last week, updated my original post.
Drag coefficients: Hardtop 0.36, Clubman 0.34, Countryman 0.36 (From the TheCheatOSX's service bulletin database here, SIM000210)

Cerenkov,
Hope this helps. Page 30 of attached the CALC PID reference document from the Palmer website.
Yes. Great. It looks like I have to input the gear ratio and other information which I did for DashCommand but not ScanXL.
 
  #108  
Old 12-05-2013, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by PenguinOnTheTelly
As promised I took some IAT readings during full throttle/boost conditions:

  • Two back to back runs - Ambient air 38F; 0-60 run; 15psi boost; engine 221F; IAT = 50F
  • Ambient air 42F; 50-90 run; 15psi boost; engine 221F; IAT = 63F

In all cases the IAT returns to about +2F above ambient very quickly while traveling at speeds of 30mph or greater. Even after the highway run (+21F) it returned to +2F in about 20 seconds.

Pepper I'd be curious if you have consistent temp readings if you replicate your runs with your stock airbox. If so I think that speaks to the effectiveness of a good stepped intercooler. The RIS helps provides a cool (semi pressurized environment) like the stock airbox with the added benefit of a K&N cylindrical element and its reduced air flow resistance. Personally I also enjoy the "etherial" sounds that emanate from the RIS. The downside is it interferes with strut tower brace installations. I also had to modify the rubber seal on top of the RIS to some degree in order to best channel the incoming air from the hood scoop.
I also have a Forge FMIC, but my IATS seem to be consistently in the +7 to +10F range above ambient. This is simply cruising around.

Curious how you are at +2 and Im at +7 or more.
 
  #109  
Old 12-05-2013, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Mindspin311
I also have a Forge FMIC, but my IATS seem to be consistently in the +7 to +10F range above ambient. This is simply cruising around. Curious how you are at +2 and Im at +7 or more.
I see pretty much same +2 with Alta FMIC & CAI.
 
  #110  
Old 12-05-2013, 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Mindspin311
I also have a Forge FMIC, but my IATS seem to be consistently in the +7 to +10F range above ambient. This is simply cruising around. Curious how you are at +2 and Im at +7 or more.
I have a forge and I'm in the +2 range. Try sport mode it might make difference. Today my engine temp dropped from 220 F to 175 F when I put it in sport mode that could possibly affect IAT.
 
  #111  
Old 12-05-2013, 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by cerenkov
My ELM wifi does not turn off.
I have one in my R60 and I think the red and blue light goes off. Doesn't that mean it is powered off?

i don't want a dead battery tomorrow.

do you push the button or unplug it?

thanks :-)
 
  #112  
Old 12-05-2013, 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by kerrys914
I have one in my R60 and I think the red and blue light goes off. Doesn't that mean it is powered off? i don't want a dead battery tomorrow. do you push the button or unplug it? thanks :-)
I push the button once to turn off and twice to turn on. I've forgotten to turn it off for days and it hasn't drained the battery.

Now when the car is off I believe that it goes into some kind of standby mode. The blue light remains on (at least a little while) but the wifi stops working so I lose my connection.

I leave it plugged it all the time. What's cool is that if I leave the car running in the driveway I can monitor it inside the house with ScanXL running on the laptop.
 
  #113  
Old 12-09-2013, 03:46 PM
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Not a graph but a new gauge page I set running boost, ambient, and IATs. The picture was snapped at about 2 hours of 65-85 mph highway driving from NH to RI. The Helix FMIC definitely keeps the IATs down!


Dash Command data log graphs-image-830414993.jpg

Sent from my iPad using NAMotoring
 
  #114  
Old 12-09-2013, 05:13 PM
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How are you guys getting the peak/max pointer to work?!? I just can't get mine to register...
 
  #115  
Old 12-09-2013, 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by fishbulb
How are you guys getting the peak/max pointer to work?!? I just can't get mine to register...
The max pointer (triangle) is under "Marker PID"

Here are some screen shots:





 
  #116  
Old 01-17-2014, 02:40 PM
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For those using a laptop, which cable did you use?
 
  #117  
Old 01-18-2014, 06:15 AM
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ok, so I bought this app mainly just to play around with 0-60, HP and torque readings, but as I dig deeper into all the info it can display, I have come to realize that I have no idea what I'm looking at.

Regarding timing and AFR, what numbers should I be wanting to see to make sure my engine is running up to snuff? Or, is there some place someone can point me to know what numbers are desirable?
 
  #118  
Old 01-18-2014, 08:01 AM
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Originally Posted by george_talbot
For those using a laptop, which cable did you use?
I use a elm327 wifi adapter
 
  #119  
Old 01-18-2014, 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by pidge1114
ok, so I bought this app mainly just to play around with 0-60, HP and torque readings, but as I dig deeper into all the info it can display, I have come to realize that I have no idea what I'm looking at.

Regarding timing and AFR, what numbers should I be wanting to see to make sure my engine is running up to snuff? Or, is there some place someone can point me to know what numbers are desirable?
For the most part you're only need to be concerned about these values while WOT so during WOT or high boost conditions:

1.) AFR should drop to about 12 or so toward the end of a 4th gear pull from 3000 rpm to redline. This means that the engine is running rich which is safer but less powerful than lean. During normal driving this will bounce around 14.7 which is the stoichiometric ratio for gasoline engines.

2.) Timing is going to be all over the place during normal drive but under WOT it will settle at some value - the actual value is not terribly important. Here your looking for timing being retarded (or pulled) due to knock. This can been seen by 3 degree step reductions in timing. This is really only a concern if you have a tune for increased boost and/or using low quality gas.

There is a lot more information about this out there with regard to turbocharged cars (it doesn't have to be MINI specific), personally I like youtube videos.
 
  #120  
Old 01-18-2014, 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by cerenkov
For the most part you're only need to be concerned about these values while WOT so during WOT or high boost conditions:

1.) AFR should drop to about 12 or so toward the end of a 4th gear pull from 3000 rpm to redline. This means that the engine is running rich which is safer but less powerful than lean. During normal driving this will bounce around 14.7 which is the stoichiometric ratio for gasoline engines.

2.) Timing is going to be all over the place during normal drive but under WOT it will settle at some value - the actual value is not terribly important. Here your looking for timing being retarded (or pulled) due to knock. This can been seen by 3 degree step reductions in timing. This is really only a concern if you have a tune for increased boost and/or using low quality gas.

There is a lot more information about this out there with regard to turbocharged cars (it doesn't have to be MINI specific), personally I like youtube videos.
Very helpful, gracias
 
  #121  
Old 01-18-2014, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by cerenkov
I use a elm327 wifi adapter
Cheers
 
  #122  
Old 01-25-2014, 02:10 PM
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Having a few issues with ScanXL Proffesional, I am using the wifi obd tool to my laptop.

I can connect to the car fine, can read codes (there are none). I selected all PIDs and validated them and I still get no live data on the dashboard. When I go to the Diagnostics tab and select Data View it does not work either...

Have I missed something simple or do I need to change some settings.

Any help would be appreciated.

2007 Manual MCS.
 
  #123  
Old 01-25-2014, 02:13 PM
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It's been a while. Do you have to select the PIDS you want to view? I believe you validate which you can read, then select the actual ones you want to log.
 
  #124  
Old 01-25-2014, 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by george_talbot
Having a few issues with ScanXL Proffesional, I am using the wifi obd tool to my laptop.

I can connect to the car fine, can read codes (there are none). I selected all PIDs and validated them and I still get no live data on the dashboard. When I go to the Diagnostics tab and select Data View it does not work either...

Have I missed something simple or do I need to change some settings.

Any help would be appreciated.

2007 Manual MCS.
Under the "Settings" tab select "PID Config"
check the PIDs that you want to work

This confounded me for a day or two.
 
  #125  
Old 01-27-2014, 10:47 PM
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Originally Posted by kerrys914
Before I go through this process (BIG thanks to PWK for posting this). Has anyone gathered the data for a '12 CM all4?

Thanks and I'll be up and running tonight
Seconding the request for the advanced settings on a '12 CM all4

Just received the JB+ and want to see what kind of increases in boost/hp/torque I'm looking at. Thanks in advance.
 


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