Drivetrain Dash Command data log graphs
#101
#102
I use both but think the graphs logged from ScanXL are less stair-stepped than the ones logged from DashCommand.
I'll be logging a run a little later tonight with the laptop and ScanXL.
#104
Here's a graph that was taken directly with my laptop and ScanXL. Not a very good 3rd gear run...I really need to find a road to do a 4th gear run.
For some reason the gear PID is not working (works with DashCommand though)
BTW the run was with the JB+ set at 6 or 1 o'clock.
For some reason the gear PID is not working (works with DashCommand though)
BTW the run was with the JB+ set at 6 or 1 o'clock.
Last edited by cerenkov; 12-02-2013 at 08:08 PM.
#105
3rd Gear
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Yes definitely. We would also have to agree on a test method too. Ex: flat land, 3rd gear, 3000 rpm to red line, 5 runs take the average. Regardless of the validity of the hp and torque calculations of the app any assistance would be appreciated in picking the best numbers for...
My Dashcommand iOS vehicle settings:
Engine displacement: 1598cc (owner manual)
Fuel type: Gasoline
Fuel tank capacity: 13.2 gal (owner manual)
Brake specific fuel consumption: .50
Tire size specification: 205/45R17
Final drive ratios: (NAM VIN Decoder)
Additional weight: 150 lb (my weight)
Drag coefficients: 0.36 (here)
Frontal area: 1.99 square meters (here)
Maximum engine speed: 6500 rpm
Minimum engine speed: 700 rpm
- brake specific fuel consumption (most confusing because it is not really a constant)
- Drag coefficients
- Frontal area
My Dashcommand iOS vehicle settings:
Engine displacement: 1598cc (owner manual)
Fuel type: Gasoline
Fuel tank capacity: 13.2 gal (owner manual)
Brake specific fuel consumption: .50
Tire size specification: 205/45R17
Final drive ratios: (NAM VIN Decoder)
- Axle ratio: 3.65
- 1st gear: 3.31
- 2nd gear: 2.13
- 3rd gear: 1.48
- 4th gear: 1.14
- 5th gear: 0.95
- 6th gear: 0.82
- 7th gear: nothing entered
Additional weight: 150 lb (my weight)
Drag coefficients: 0.36 (here)
Frontal area: 1.99 square meters (here)
Maximum engine speed: 6500 rpm
Minimum engine speed: 700 rpm
Thanks and I'll be up and running tonight
#106
Have not seen any posted. Found the following last week, updated my original post.
Drag coefficients: Hardtop 0.36, Clubman 0.34, Countryman 0.36 (From the TheCheatOSX's service bulletin database here, SIM000210)
Cerenkov,
Hope this helps. Page 30 of attached the CALC PID reference document from the Palmer website.
Drag coefficients: Hardtop 0.36, Clubman 0.34, Countryman 0.36 (From the TheCheatOSX's service bulletin database here, SIM000210)
Cerenkov,
Hope this helps. Page 30 of attached the CALC PID reference document from the Palmer website.
#107
Have not seen any posted. Found the following last week, updated my original post.
Drag coefficients: Hardtop 0.36, Clubman 0.34, Countryman 0.36 (From the TheCheatOSX's service bulletin database here, SIM000210)
Cerenkov,
Hope this helps. Page 30 of attached the CALC PID reference document from the Palmer website.
Drag coefficients: Hardtop 0.36, Clubman 0.34, Countryman 0.36 (From the TheCheatOSX's service bulletin database here, SIM000210)
Cerenkov,
Hope this helps. Page 30 of attached the CALC PID reference document from the Palmer website.
#108
As promised I took some IAT readings during full throttle/boost conditions:
In all cases the IAT returns to about +2F above ambient very quickly while traveling at speeds of 30mph or greater. Even after the highway run (+21F) it returned to +2F in about 20 seconds.
Pepper I'd be curious if you have consistent temp readings if you replicate your runs with your stock airbox. If so I think that speaks to the effectiveness of a good stepped intercooler. The RIS helps provides a cool (semi pressurized environment) like the stock airbox with the added benefit of a K&N cylindrical element and its reduced air flow resistance. Personally I also enjoy the "etherial" sounds that emanate from the RIS. The downside is it interferes with strut tower brace installations. I also had to modify the rubber seal on top of the RIS to some degree in order to best channel the incoming air from the hood scoop.
- Two back to back runs - Ambient air 38F; 0-60 run; 15psi boost; engine 221F; IAT = 50F
- Ambient air 42F; 50-90 run; 15psi boost; engine 221F; IAT = 63F
In all cases the IAT returns to about +2F above ambient very quickly while traveling at speeds of 30mph or greater. Even after the highway run (+21F) it returned to +2F in about 20 seconds.
Pepper I'd be curious if you have consistent temp readings if you replicate your runs with your stock airbox. If so I think that speaks to the effectiveness of a good stepped intercooler. The RIS helps provides a cool (semi pressurized environment) like the stock airbox with the added benefit of a K&N cylindrical element and its reduced air flow resistance. Personally I also enjoy the "etherial" sounds that emanate from the RIS. The downside is it interferes with strut tower brace installations. I also had to modify the rubber seal on top of the RIS to some degree in order to best channel the incoming air from the hood scoop.
Curious how you are at +2 and Im at +7 or more.
#109
#110
I have a forge and I'm in the +2 range. Try sport mode it might make difference. Today my engine temp dropped from 220 F to 175 F when I put it in sport mode that could possibly affect IAT.
#112
Now when the car is off I believe that it goes into some kind of standby mode. The blue light remains on (at least a little while) but the wifi stops working so I lose my connection.
I leave it plugged it all the time. What's cool is that if I leave the car running in the driveway I can monitor it inside the house with ScanXL running on the laptop.
#113
#115
#117
ok, so I bought this app mainly just to play around with 0-60, HP and torque readings, but as I dig deeper into all the info it can display, I have come to realize that I have no idea what I'm looking at.
Regarding timing and AFR, what numbers should I be wanting to see to make sure my engine is running up to snuff? Or, is there some place someone can point me to know what numbers are desirable?
Regarding timing and AFR, what numbers should I be wanting to see to make sure my engine is running up to snuff? Or, is there some place someone can point me to know what numbers are desirable?
#119
ok, so I bought this app mainly just to play around with 0-60, HP and torque readings, but as I dig deeper into all the info it can display, I have come to realize that I have no idea what I'm looking at.
Regarding timing and AFR, what numbers should I be wanting to see to make sure my engine is running up to snuff? Or, is there some place someone can point me to know what numbers are desirable?
Regarding timing and AFR, what numbers should I be wanting to see to make sure my engine is running up to snuff? Or, is there some place someone can point me to know what numbers are desirable?
1.) AFR should drop to about 12 or so toward the end of a 4th gear pull from 3000 rpm to redline. This means that the engine is running rich which is safer but less powerful than lean. During normal driving this will bounce around 14.7 which is the stoichiometric ratio for gasoline engines.
2.) Timing is going to be all over the place during normal drive but under WOT it will settle at some value - the actual value is not terribly important. Here your looking for timing being retarded (or pulled) due to knock. This can been seen by 3 degree step reductions in timing. This is really only a concern if you have a tune for increased boost and/or using low quality gas.
There is a lot more information about this out there with regard to turbocharged cars (it doesn't have to be MINI specific), personally I like youtube videos.
#120
For the most part you're only need to be concerned about these values while WOT so during WOT or high boost conditions:
1.) AFR should drop to about 12 or so toward the end of a 4th gear pull from 3000 rpm to redline. This means that the engine is running rich which is safer but less powerful than lean. During normal driving this will bounce around 14.7 which is the stoichiometric ratio for gasoline engines.
2.) Timing is going to be all over the place during normal drive but under WOT it will settle at some value - the actual value is not terribly important. Here your looking for timing being retarded (or pulled) due to knock. This can been seen by 3 degree step reductions in timing. This is really only a concern if you have a tune for increased boost and/or using low quality gas.
There is a lot more information about this out there with regard to turbocharged cars (it doesn't have to be MINI specific), personally I like youtube videos.
1.) AFR should drop to about 12 or so toward the end of a 4th gear pull from 3000 rpm to redline. This means that the engine is running rich which is safer but less powerful than lean. During normal driving this will bounce around 14.7 which is the stoichiometric ratio for gasoline engines.
2.) Timing is going to be all over the place during normal drive but under WOT it will settle at some value - the actual value is not terribly important. Here your looking for timing being retarded (or pulled) due to knock. This can been seen by 3 degree step reductions in timing. This is really only a concern if you have a tune for increased boost and/or using low quality gas.
There is a lot more information about this out there with regard to turbocharged cars (it doesn't have to be MINI specific), personally I like youtube videos.
#122
Having a few issues with ScanXL Proffesional, I am using the wifi obd tool to my laptop.
I can connect to the car fine, can read codes (there are none). I selected all PIDs and validated them and I still get no live data on the dashboard. When I go to the Diagnostics tab and select Data View it does not work either...
Have I missed something simple or do I need to change some settings.
Any help would be appreciated.
2007 Manual MCS.
I can connect to the car fine, can read codes (there are none). I selected all PIDs and validated them and I still get no live data on the dashboard. When I go to the Diagnostics tab and select Data View it does not work either...
Have I missed something simple or do I need to change some settings.
Any help would be appreciated.
2007 Manual MCS.
#123
#124
Having a few issues with ScanXL Proffesional, I am using the wifi obd tool to my laptop.
I can connect to the car fine, can read codes (there are none). I selected all PIDs and validated them and I still get no live data on the dashboard. When I go to the Diagnostics tab and select Data View it does not work either...
Have I missed something simple or do I need to change some settings.
Any help would be appreciated.
2007 Manual MCS.
I can connect to the car fine, can read codes (there are none). I selected all PIDs and validated them and I still get no live data on the dashboard. When I go to the Diagnostics tab and select Data View it does not work either...
Have I missed something simple or do I need to change some settings.
Any help would be appreciated.
2007 Manual MCS.
check the PIDs that you want to work
This confounded me for a day or two.
#125
Just received the JB+ and want to see what kind of increases in boost/hp/torque I'm looking at. Thanks in advance.