There is a calculated wheel hp and torque function already built in to the free version of ScanXL. You'll find it in the list of graphical data to display.

 

There's a free version of ScanXL? (or is that DashXL) Where did you find that?

 

It's the evaluation version downloadable from their site. I'll post up the link when I get back to my desk.

 

http://www.palmerperformance.com/downloads.php

 

Ahhhh... the evaluation version, that explains it. Thanks

 

Thanks for the feedback,

After inputting the parameters listed by pepperwhiteknight I obtained a HP peak of about 208 and torque of around 205. I would have thought torque would have been higher. The HP is plausible though (I would like to think anyway). I am delighted to see how many parameters are covered; from fuel rail pressure to ambient air temps and intake temps. Oddly the custom gauges I created for HP and Torque are not functioning? I must not have selected the correct parameters.

It is interesting to see that my intake temps are about 5 degrees over ambient once my speed hits about 20mph or higher and about 3 degrees over at highway speeds. It's about 10 degrees over at idle and begins to drop quickly as I approach 20mph. The DDM Race Intake appears to work.
Curious to know what you guys with stock air-boxes are observing. Probably the same or better on temps I bet. By the way where is the vehicle's intake temperature sensor? Is it pre or post turbine? If it's post turbine I'm guessing it's more of a reflection of the intercooler than the intake.

 

Interesting how fast your hood scooped CAI and FMIC recovers. Based off my data logs it doesn't seem like the stock recovers nearly as quickly. I also gave up trying to get delta torque and hp for with and without the JB+. Dashcommand calculates the hp and torque from BSFC and Fuel flow. Fuel flow is calculated from the MAF signal. Not sure on the validity of the delta because the JB hooks into the MAF.

My IAT observations...
On the highway running with the flow of traffic at speeds of 60-80 mph IAT is 0 to +2 F.
Hard acceleration 30 to 75 mph will cause IAT to be +27 F.
Running through the gears I have observed +45 F.
Any time the boost kicks in the temperature IAT starts going up.

With your hood scooped CAI and FMIC does the IAT get pulled up with boost/hard acceleration?

 

Intake temp sensor is on the boost tube on the passenger side of the car.

Pop the hood and you'll see it on your left hand side, hard to miss!

 

I will make this my mission for tomorrow's commute. I'll do some hard full boost pulls and note my max IAT's. It's been a little chilly here in Chi Town so I'm not sure if that will skew my readings. After I input the parameters you listed in my dash command I'm getting between 200-208 Max HP and 200-205 Max Torque. Do these numbers seem plausible to the more experienced folks out there given my mods and the JB+ set in its stock configuration (12 o'clock) with 93 octane 10% ethanol fuel?

 

From DashCommand today I did one run through 1,2 and 3 gears WOT followed with cruising at ~65-70 mph.... IAT went from 61 F to 77 F and following WOT took 18 seconds to return to 61 F. I do have a Forge FMIC if that makes a difference.

 

As promised I took some IAT readings during full throttle/boost conditions:

• Two back to back runs - Ambient air 38F; 0-60 run; 15psi boost; engine 221F; IAT = 50F

• Ambient air 42F; 50-90 run; 15psi boost; engine 221F; IAT = 63F

In all cases the IAT returns to about +2F above ambient very quickly while traveling at speeds of 30mph or greater. Even after the highway run (+21F) it returned to +2F in about 20 seconds.

Pepper I'd be curious if you have consistent temp readings if you replicate your runs with your stock airbox. If so I think that speaks to the effectiveness of a good stepped intercooler. The RIS helps provides a cool (semi pressurized environment) like the stock airbox with the added benefit of a K&N cylindrical element and its reduced air flow resistance. Personally I also enjoy the "etherial" sounds that emanate from the RIS. The downside is it interferes with strut tower brace installations. I also had to modify the rubber seal on top of the RIS to some degree in order to best channel the incoming air from the hood scoop.

 

I like what I see. Definitely made the case to push me over the fence on getting a FMIC. Wonder how the DOS v2 CAI compares to the DDM. Also tried to do some 0-60 runs. Either I am very consistent or the app wasn't cooperating. The app showed 8.0 seconds for Fastest ET and Last ET after several 0-60 runs.

50-90 run, peak boost 14.9 psi, drive time about 25 minutes:
Run Start:
IAT 68, AAT 66, ECT 210 time 00:00
Readings @ Peak IAT:
IAT 100, AAT 66, ECT 201, time: 00:07
20 Seconds later:
IAT 75, AAT 66, ECT 181, time: 00:27

Gears 1, 2, 3 WOT, let off at 70 mph, peak boost 14.9 psi, drive time about 1 hour 20 minutes:
Run Start:
IAT 68, AAT 63, ECT 210, time 00:00
Readings @ 60 mph:
IAT 88, AAT 64, ECT 196, time 00:09
Readings @ Peak IAT:
IAT 93, AAT 64, ECT 192 time 00:13
18 Seconds later:
IAT 73, AAT 64, ECT 196 time 00:31
End Readings:
IAT 70, AAT 66, ECT 205 time 00:43

Stopping for gas, drive time about 2 hours:
Before:
IAT 68, AAT 64, ECT 216
After:
IAT 84, AAT 66, ECT 216
2 minutes after getting on highway:
IAT 73, AAT 66, ECT 205
4 minutes after getting on highway:
IAT 68, AAT 64, ECT 216

 

Pepper,

Your readings make me feel like my $600 FMIC was money well spent. There apparently is a big difference albeit you have much warmer ambient temps where you live (lucky guy - I installed my winter wheels and tires today). As you have a 2011 I would recommend the Forge unit although others likely work just as well (Helix - ALTA etc). No cutting whatsoever is involved (like ALTA requires). The unit slips in nicely w/o a fight. There is a hard mount tab centered on the top of the IC that should work perfectly with your '11. I had to weld on an extension on my '13's crash bar to use this mount. There are two bolt mounts on the bottom left and right sides as well so there is no vibration. I think MINI redesigned the crash bar in '12 that includes a lower extension. If you have this on your '11 you need to remove the crash bar (which isn't a big deal really as it is bolted on) in order to install the new IC. It was about a 2-3 hour job for me including stopping for a lunch break. If you end up doing an install drop me a line and I'd be glad to pass on any tips. I also have a series of photos of the install and tab I welded on the bumper if you need them in the future.

 

Thanks for the info. If welding is required then I will have to find a mod shop. Waiting to see how the helix group buy plays out.

 

I didn't have to weld to install the Forge unit on my 2013. I did have to remove the crash bar and had to alter the instructions (I had to use a longer bolt drilled through the thick part of the crash bar) to use the center mounting tab but no welding.

It was a fun mod, not hard at all. You do learn a lot about the front of your car though.

 

You don't have to use the center mount if you don't want to. I welded it cause I have a welder and well....I have a welder. You could use steel pop rivets to affix the tab, long bolts or self tapping screws instead. Besides I don't think the 2011 has the same bumper as '12's or '13's so it should work as is. Here are some pics so you can see how the stock set up is with the crash bar, also the difference in size between the Forge and stock. The Helix doesn't even use a top mount I don't think. I think it is a good idea so that's one of the reason's I picked the Forge unit.

 

Here's a couple more. These show the tab (piece of scrap steel) I welded, although it could be easily bolted, and the final install. It just fits behind the lower bumper area.:

 

I got my helix in within a few hours I my driveway. Great project! Now with the DC app I can keep a closer eye on my low IATs!!! I was inches away from the forge. I was sold on the mounting tabs. I stumbled upon a great deal on the helix and couldn't pass it up.

 

Very nice max. They work just as well as one another. Is your dog as frustrated as you with your OBD port? He sure looks like it. Is he a Husky or Malamute?

 

He is a malamute. Things seem to be working well with the kiwi now but I still believe something is wrong. The cheap elm worked fine in my wife's MCS. I know I'm not getting timing readings and other reading with the kiwi. Hmmmmm.

 

Finally putting all the pieces of my car back together and found some time to run a data log without modes.
I added O2 sensor signal but lost IAT for some reason. Will have to look back through the configuration to see if my data points are limited. At any rate, here's the pre-Stage 2 software data on my car.

I'll try to grab some data with the Evolve tune loaded this week (before Thursday), then everything gets swapped around again with a few new parts.

 

So I managed to do a quick data collection over lunch with the Evolve map installed:

I left the pointer at peak torque, peak hp comes a little later in the curve. This is with the Helix intercooler and JCW cone filter installed.

Even though these are calculated values, they make a fairly good relative comparison and seem close to the advertised values as well.

 

That's an increase of 70 ft-lbs?! and over 40 hp

 

Mind putting together a nice writeup of everything needed to do the datalogging. I think I know, but a guide would be sweet.

 

Does anyone data log straight to their laptop?