Regarding the new Bosch 380cc injectors...... Are the o-rings on them that seal the injectors to the intake manifold the same size as the OEM injector o-rings? They sure seemed loose compared to the super tight (and hard to remove) oem injectors. They weren't really loose...they just weren't as tight fitting as the injectors I pulled out.

Just wondering.......I have some extra time to check things out while I'm waiting on my DME to get back from Way Motor Works.

 

Honestly, I don't recall what mine felt like. I can tell you this though, I installed them without issue. The injector clips are a bit fiddly, but worked. When you install them, just make sure there are no leaks; fuel leaks will be obvious, and you'd get reduced vacuum readings at idle if there were a bad seal at the intake manifold-to-injector interface.

 

Thanks for the info. I pulled the IC off again just to take a look at the injectors. One of the clips looked like it wasn't really seated all that great so I fixed it. Other than that, I think everything's good to go.

 

Yeah- the more you spread / swap the clips, the wider & looser the openings get. I gently closed them with pliers to make sure they held on once installed. With injectors, like many things, it's best practice to just buy new wear parts (o-rings & clips) when upgrading.

 

Well I got my DME back from Way Motor Works today with their quick tune flashed on it setup for my new 380cc injectors.

Just driving the car around, I do notice a little more mid range pull which is nice. Wide open throttle (WOT) doesn't really seem much different. I think I notice more of a difference down low and in the midrange than at WOT.

Here is the same WOT run in 3rd gear starting at 3000rpms running up to 6500rpms. I was surprised to see that it's still pretty rich...almost as rich as the 380cc injectors and the 200JCW tune that I had before. I thought that it would be leaned out at little more.....around 11.5 or so on the top end, but it's pretty fat.....around 10.5 towards the end of the run. I guess I can't really complain....it didn't really seem to pick up and power when the pedal is mashed, but it definitely does feel like it's got more low end pull and mid-range pep.

Here is the ARF log with the Quick Tune.....what do you think?

 

Just for reference....here is teh ARF log from the stock 330cc injectors and the 200jcw tune (bottom), and then the 380cc injectors and the 200jcw tune (top).

I still think it felt like it pulled hardest with the 200jcw tune and the stock 330cc injectors.

 

Ahh, that's tough.

Each graph is between where you'd ideally want to be. Frankly, the WMW log is no better in terms of tip-in, and overall AFR; it's just as rich as the untuned 380's. Having said that, the mid-range power bump you feel is likely due to some timing advance in the new map. Again, WMW might have tweaked timing a bit, but he likely tweaked throttle response too, which would feel like a low-to-mid range gain.

Basically, the WMW map leaves a lot of power on the table by being too rich, as does the untuned 380's. The stock 340's would feel the strongest, the only issue being you're a little lean in the mid-range (not dangerously) and initial enrichment tip-in takes longer.

 

I'm surprised Way hasn't chimed in with some info on his Quick Tune. I don't really know if it's supposed to be on the rich side, or if I have something else going. Is it possible for a flash not to "take" and the DME to revert back to the stock tune?

As far as the AFR's go...they are all but identical to the stock tune I had.....really rich. I sent Way a PM....haven't heard anything back from him yet. It would be nice to get some more info. Maybe it's supposed to be this rich for safety's sake? Maybe I should have got the 210hp JCW flash instead?

 

The problem with any decent off-the-shelf tune is this: because they're not monitoring the car or data logging, they have to err on the side of caution. In the case of tuning, "side of caution" means tuning richer than needed and not being too aggressive with timing. This equates to less gain and is understandably disappointing.

 

I completely understand and agree with the fact that its nice to error on the rich side to be safe. I guess maybe I should have went with the 210jcw tune instead....but Way said I would be better off with the quick tune. Does the 210jcw tune run fat too? If was a factory tune.....so you would think it would be "safe". Just trying to learn all I can .

 

You should save your cash for a Dyno or road tune. Sorry this didn't work out, but I'm glad you posted those graphs. This is all very valuable info to have.

 

I don’t know if I would go as far as saying that it didn’t work out.

The WMW quick tune isn’t a bad tune, it’s noticeably more peppy down low and in the mid range (for street driving, that’s actually pretty nice)….it just didn’t gain any top end power. I guess I just thought that since the 380’s took my WOT AFR’s from 11.5 or so down to 10.5….the whole point of having my DME flashed with a new tune that was “designed for 380 injectors” was to get the WOT AFR’s back up to where they were before…around 11.5. .

I think if I had to do it all over again, after knowing what I know now, and after getting a little more info from Way…….I would have just left the car the way it was. Way told me that unless you start doing cylinder head work, the larger 380cc injectors don’t really do much….it’s all in the tune. I even saw some guys on MiniTorque that said they were getting 250hp on the 330cc injectors before they were maxed out on duty cycle. For the majority of mini owners who are doing standard bolt on mods and getting around 180-200hp…..I think the rumor of “you need to have 380cc injectors or you are going to blow up your motor” is nothing but a myth….probably fabricated by the shops that sells sets of injectors for $500+.

I’d say that you are better off to spend $160 on an AFR gauge first and see what’s going on before you dump money on new injectors…just because you were told that’s what most people do.

 

And I agree 100% with everything you just said. Some transparency from tune providers would be nice regarding what they change. I know what they do, but want to hear it. I'm not trash talking Way by any means, but simple throttle response tuning and a tiny bit of ignition advance down-low will do what you've explained. I've tuned 4 of my own cars and know that even small changes can be felt.

 

Hi guys,


So far my bosch fuel injectors have worked flawlessly....it's been almost 2 years .


Here's a link to all the suitable alternatives for the Bosch 0280158096 injectors.


http://www.findpart.org/part/bos-0280158096/


Thought I would leave this here for future references.


BOSCH 0 280 158 025
BOSCH 0 280 158 315
VOLVO 30757309
VOLVO 30757534
VOLVO 307575340
VOLVO 8653891
VOLVO 86538915
VOLVO 8653892
VOLVO 86538923

 

Glad all is still well.

 

SUB

let me read this 22 pages then ask questions lol.

 

I just finished reading took some breaks, but lots of info. The hardest thing i find in this community is getting a custom tune done. Everyone wants to sell you canned tunes and i hate them lol (bad experience). But I was looking at does 550cc injectors since i building this R53 for track use and not DD I think they apply, Dont really care if i wont max them out. Guess just need to find tuner and WMW only does can, RMW only does remote tunes, but I'm not willing to spend 800 on a canned tune.

I will be installing a WMI and normally my Fluid is a mixture of 4 heel bottle and one gallon of 30%/70% windshield washer fluid which nets you 50/50. I know this would also make me rich with out a tune. Need the Custom tune. Doing the WMI more the the cooling then the adding power specially on hot track days. Worked great on My Genesis Coupe.

 

RMW does LIVE tuning at performance shops across the US - just have to find out where and when

 

22 pages... Glad it is a slow day at work.. HAHAHAHAHA

Thanks to everyone for all the research and testing that was done in this thread! Awesome stuff!!!

 

I am trying to follow y'alls info here but I can't seem to verify these injectors as the part that was listed. Can someone check the listing and verify I am not ordering the wrong part number.



http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Set-5-36...JYJCJG&vxp=mtr

 

Dear Grandtheftfu,
As best I can tell, those injectors you linked to will not work because they are too long (tall).
The price is good but you will have to extensive modification to fit to the fuel rail.
They look to be 380cc, not 550cc.

FYI, you can buy OEM 380 cc from Autozone, Advance, or pepboys, online, with a 20% coupon and cash back, bringing the price down to about $60 each, with free shipping. The part numbers can be one of these, depending upon who you order from: 4G2172, 239029, M1330, 800-2004N, FJ968

Hope this helps.

You are not lost if you don't care where you are.
If it were not for tomorrow, nothing would get done.

 

You need to find the Bosch 0280158096 380cc injectors, and then get a set of the EV6 to EV1 pigtail adapters. That's what I'm running. Everything fits without any issues at all. If I remember right, I got mine used off of eBay for around $50 for all 4. The European eBay site has them all over.

 

Thanks a bunch guys. I'll check both of those suggestions.

 

^ This. Stick to the script, and buy using actual part # whenever possible. Those clowns on Ebay list injectors for cars which aren't compatible.

Have fun.

 

Pardon the bump