If anyone has read about or is interested in replacing their R56 diverter valve internals with the Audi diverter valve internals (06H 145 710 D) be aware that this won't work for all R56 minis.

I am not sure of the exact production MONTH in 2007, but mine was manufactured in June and it does not work for me. I believe any R56 produced from January to June of 2007 WILL NOT ACCEPT the internal swap from the VAG part# 06H 145 710 D.

Below are the 3 part numbers for SLIGHTLY different R56 diverter valves.

11657566324
11657578683
11657593273

I have (or had) 11657566324. The VAG internals will not fit in this.
I believe the only parts that are compatible with the VAG unit are 11657578683 and 11657593273.

Below are a couple of links which discuss this. The first one shows the problem that I have (or had). The plastic black collar or ring or whatever breaks. I considered 3 options:
$60 OEM replacement
$110 VAG internal swap (go ahead, giggle a little)
$250 FORGE BOV

VAG internal swap didnt work for me, so I went OEM. I had 11657566324 and now replaced it with 11657593273. On a side note, if I end up with the same failure, the VAG internal swap will now work for me.

here are the two side by side.



note the plastic black collar thing around the rubber diaphragm has its rim eroded away. it actually eroded so cleanly that i didnt notice it was gone upon my initial inspection.

that collar, also shown damaged in the forum link below, sits inside the main housing of the DIV. the cylindrical cavity that it sits in is smaller in 11657566324, which is why the internal from the VAG part wont fit
its off by like a millimeter... i found out the hard way.

also note the difference in the holes on top. good luck!


https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...heck-this.html

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-external.html

 

and another note...

trying to figure out what was wrong with my car in the first place.

one day i noticed my check engine light came on, and i no longer had any boost.
first i thought that my turbo died.

analyzing the problem i realized that each time the car turned off, and back on again, the problem would reset. i could reproduce the problem any time i wanted by QUICKLY releasing the throttle after the turbo had spooled up. instead of a constant hiss of a "blow out valve" it was a stuttering sound, and the check engine light would come back on and the turbo was gone again.

i later found through some research that the ECU could cut turbo functionality if it was seeing a problem with the diverter valve sensor, and that was the problem.

 

Hey thefallingtree,

Glad I found your post. I'm having the same boost cutout issue. I also get a CC-ID 029 (steady yellow half engine light on the tach only). It's totally repeatable: rev beyond 3800 RPMs while stationary or flooring it on the road while in high gears triggers the light. Shutting the car off plus a little time or easy driving seems to clear it.

Just pulled my DV and had the same damage to the plastic collar as yours. I'm getting one from the local dealer tomorrow.

Just to be sure...did the new OEM DV fix the issue for you?

Thanks.

cpb

 

The solution that solved all my blown stock valves (weekly) and constant erratic boost (Audi /VAG) issues is the Alta valve. My stage 4 has been running one of these without any issues for two years. http://altaperformance.com/i-1400717...bo-engine.html

 

CPB, yes, stock replacement fixed the problem.

 

I've seen very good results on the VAG forums with GFBs valve. I've heard that a mini version is in the works as well. Hope thats true. I'm going to dyno my car in the next few weeks to get a baseline (an note boost and spool up characteristics). I just hit 10,000 kms. I'd like to then compare in either another 10k or with a new valve to see if I was starting to bleed boost.

 

Too bad this doesn't work with the N18 (as per Alta).

 

I too was having boost cut out. Almost like clock work, if I moved off in first on anything over half throttle (sport mode or not), I would get a super strong pull, but by the time I shift into 2nd max boost drops to 4-5 psi, the car struggles to rev past 4k rpm, and it remains this way for 5 mins at minimum. Maybe (once in a while), I would get short lived (1-4 seconds) boost between 5 and 8 psi in the higher gears only. My torquepro logs at 0.1 second intervals and it never logged anything at 22 lbs or over. Infact, many times I would get just 11-12 psi but the boost cuts anyway. I figured for $54 bucks I would get the VAG and swap out the internals since torn or worn recirc valves seem to be common with boost cut the gen 2.

While the VAG recirc was on the way, I ran 3 cans of seafoam through the engine 150ml at a time with 10-20 miles of spirited driving in-between. Yes, that is 9 times and almost a full day's work (note:the neighbors and the home owners association's 'pit bull' will get in your face once the smoke clears, so be warned...don't try this at home). Since the seafoaming orgy, the problem has not occurred once, so now I am sure that my recirc valve was not the problem--just not sure what the real problem is.

I am still going to swap out the internals when the VAG unit arrives, and I will confirm on here what I found with pictures and exact part numbers (I have a November 2007 built MCS).

 

VAG swap worked for me. What I should say is that the internals swapped out easily and the part was bolted back on the car. I work on the car outside and the rain came so I have not started or driven it as yet. I will let you know how that goes.

In any case now we know that Nov 2007 R56's are good for the swap. I am a bit surprised that R56 produced from January to June of 2007 [DOES] NOT ACCEPT the internal swap from the VAG part# 06H 145 710 D because my OEM part look exactly like the OEM part thefallingtree posted.

Below are the pictures. Notice the two areas that cracked off the outer plastic ring on the OEM part (picture #3). It came of the car intact but a slight touch just holding it between my fingers caused the edges to flake off. The rubbers however, were in excellent condition. If it were not for the thinned down plastic rim I would have considered leaving the OEM part and selling the VAG.

Another thing, the springs felt the same, so the stiffer Alta spring is now on the wish list.

 

Thanks for this post, it has helped me out a bit. I just recently started getting 'limp mode' on my '11 MCS, and while I haven't ran the codes yet, I have been doing some searching for an OEM diverter valve.

I'm led to believe the N18 engines have a different (upgraded?) DV than the N14, so my question is would THIS DV work on my N18, or would it be a sort of downgrade (if it worked at all)? I'm not really trying to spend $200+ on a Forge or WMW DV or BOV just yet. Any help would be great!

 

I just wanted to add a few things to help others who may not know what the hell is going on with their cars but know it's 'something'. I took my car into a MINI dealer as well as an Independent shop many times. Problem was, they all seem to rely on a CEL to 'tell' them what is wrong with the car. This very problem has been happening for about 18 months. Reduced fuel economy, misfires, rough shifting (both surging and being under a load) and of course, reduced power. Now it didn't happen overnight, so it was tough to diagnose - especially for someone who knows d$%k about turbos. Anyway, last Friday my car finally kicked into limp mode, so I took it into the shop the same day to get it diagnosed. Found out the diverter valve was toast. It literally came apart in the mechanics hand as he removed it. Since the new diverter was installed, pretty much all the problems mentioned above are gone now. Especially the shifting part. That drove me batty as I commute in traffic everyday. It was a challenge shifting the car smoothly (impossible actually). And if I held the car at 4k RPM in 1st gear, it would act like it was cutting out... hard to explain, but it's the feeling that I took my foot off the gas instantly, then mashed the gas pedal again right afterwards. Anyway, happy it's finally fixed and didn't even cost an arm and a leg.

 

Great thread, exactly what i was looking for since i got the same issue!

My big dilemma or should i say trilemma -once you find out that the stock bov is faulty- is which of the 3 is best to install...
1. the Forge bov?
2. the updated stock bov? or
3. the GFB diverter valve?
(please also describe the reason for selecting whatever you chose! )

Might there be a how to tutorial describing how to remove the stock bov?

 

imho thefallingree's thread is one of the best thread i have read so far here!!!! thanx man, you really helped me out with the photos posted of the two dv's and the comment that the black plastic collar has eroded away! i couldn't notice it either! have a look at my dv, its exactly the same as yours! you really saved me! many many thanx and respect!

 

Can anyone confirm that the VAG swap works with an N18?
I would like to do a GFB DV+ but it's only for the auto. So the VAG swap is my alternative for a stronger DV.
I don't want to use the forge unit.

 

Why not use the Forge unit? (not against it, im only curious)

 

^^This^^

The stock unit takes longer to get back on the boost or back to the level you were at before shifting.

 

I don't get it, if the stock unit takes longer then why doesn't johntotah94 wants to use the forge?

 

Who knows, it's difficult to take advice from someone who doesn't own the product. The same reason some people prefer a Toyota instead of a Honda while others only buy German cars over Japanese cars.

 

The one I ended up going with and am still happily using is the GFB diverter valve. Been happy since day one.

 

Well to be frank, the question was addressed to johntotah94 in the first place!

 

Actually it was an open ended question directed at the general masses if you read it correctly, but I get your point.

 

I want the GFB Valve but they don't make one for N18 manual yet.
The forge unit is cool but looks overly much. Another source of a potential vacuum leak and such. GFB is trying to go against Forge saying you don't need all that extra components. I just want something simple like the GFB or upgrade the internals of the existing DV. Manic doesn't really like the Forge DV and I see a lot of Forge DV's for N18 for sale including Mario's with the GP. Manic prefers stock unit or GFB.
If the VAG swap works I will do it. I heard from factory the valve supports around 22-23psi, which I run. VAG Diverter is $33 on eBay. If anyone can confirm it works with N18 Ill give it a try.

 

It's expected for two manufactures to market their products and throw snot at each other in a small but competitive market. Potential vacuum leaks is a stretch considering the quality tubing and sounds more like marketing gimmicks to me. The added tubing seems like part of the design targeting the vacuum source that's used for boost gauges.

This I believe is why the Forge DV is as fast as it is, I can't speak to the GFB+ since I have no experience with it. The Forge unit comes with verious springs for different boost levels. I never heard of Manic saying they don't like the Forge unit vs the GFB+, but I would like to hear what Manic has been saying about the Forge unit because I prefer it over other solution and plan on a Manic Stage 1.

 

Had this happen to my 09 jcw. Luckily had a friend with mini software reader, so he pinpointed it to the diverter valve. I put on 100 odd miles a day commuting to a d from work. I have a valve on order but need my car till I can get and install the new valve. Here's what I did to get by, took diverter valve out and the black ring around diaphragm, mine had also eroded out on the flat side that seems to diaphragm. Had some high temp glue, took diaphragm off of valve and put a tiny bit on diaphragm and put the diaphragm back on valve. Then found a gasket for an older Harley Davidson cylinder, 1 of the 2 bolt holes lined up perfectly with 1 of the diverter valves, the hole in the center of gasket was a perfect fit around diaphragm. So I trimmed the other side to Mach the diverter valve and soaked the gasket with a little oil. The cylinder gasket was wide enough that it fit perfectly over were the plastic bit had broke. Put it back together and it's working beautifully! I wouldn't go out and try to get on it very much because for 1 thing it doesn't have the round part that goes around the yellow diaphragm, but to get a person by for a few days it works good enough, no codes and pulls boost, like I said I haven't really got on the throttle. I know not everybody is going to have a cylinder gasket for a older Harley laying around but you might find something similar that will work.

 

Just to add to my earlier post above, the gasket worked for a couple days then same issue. Took it apart and the gasket had deformed right against the diaphragm and allowed it to leak by. So i found really thin brass flashing and cut out the hole for diaphragm, smoothed the edges on the inside so that it wouldn't cut into the diaphragm. I put 2 of these together put a small film of silicone to keep it on valve while putting it back together. This worked a lot better than the gasket did, I didn't get my new alta diverter valve for well over a week and had no issues with pulling and keeping boost and no codes, drove about 650 miles commuting with it like that.