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Does anyone know of any company that makes an actual oil pan gasket for the MCS? BMW's version comes in a tube that you squirt out on to the edge of the pan. I've never been a fan of the Tube-o-Gasket stuff.
Just curious if anyone has seen any actual gaskets out there made by an aftermarket company.
Thanks. I will look at the fel-pro. I already took the oil pan off once and used the factory Gasket-In-A-Tube and thats what made me start looking for a real gasket. I think its leaking a little. Taking it off is easy. Its easiest to disconnect the exhaust from the downpipe if you have a good set of spreader pliers to remove the clamp. Then move the flexible joint of the exhaust to access a couple bolts. Drain oil, Take off pan, clean off all the existing gasket material from the block and the pan, put on new gasket and bolt it up. Most difficult part was getting the clamp off.
Susequent to repairs in that area requiring the removal of the pan, some conventional gaskets used by MINI to button it back up were leaking. The oil pan in the 2nd Gen MINI is thin, soft, and prone to becoming mishapen upon it's removal so the Loc-tite material was chosen for it's better sealing properties.
And, your MINI actually came from the factory that way w/o a conventional gasket..if you can get by the apprehension of the various sealers you may have used in the past, you will probably be better off.
It is not of cast aluminum like the 1st Gen. It is pressed steel.
The factory does not use a conventional gasket for the oil pan off the assembly line for the R56. MINI uses a make your own gasket material/sealer similar to that used now at the dealer (Loc-Tite syringe style). While this makes for the best/quickest assembly line seal possible filling minor voids and imperfections / bends, it makes oil pan removal a difficult task first time around.
And since they no longer want the conventional gaskets to be used after removal at the shop, the second time an R56 oil pan is removed will probably be as much of an arduous task as the 1st time.
Don't take this wrong. Unsealing the factory bond is possible for your pending mod, it's just that extreme care and patience is key to it's removal without bending the sealing surface rim....
If you AutoX and are removing the pan for a temp bung maybe consider upgrading to a baffled
oil pan same time ?
gRay rAvEn,
THanks for the help. My wife ran over something today in our driveway with her 2011 R56 and popped a hole in her oil pan. So, I'm going to order a new pan and change it out. Here's my dilemma: I can get both the replacement gasket (BMW #11137565928) and the BMW Liquid Seal (BMW #83190404517). Which one should I use?
I've looked under the car and this looks an easy swap out. Am I missing something? Can you point me to a 2nd Gen DIY String for this procedure?
As always, thanks for your help!!
Originally Posted by -=gRay rAvEn=-
It is not of cast aluminum like the 1st Gen. It is pressed steel.
The factory does not use a conventional gasket for the oil pan off the assembly line for the R56. MINI uses a make your own gasket material/sealer similar to that used now at the dealer (Loc-Tite syringe style). While this makes for the best/quickest assembly line seal possible filling minor voids and imperfections / bends, it makes oil pan removal a difficult task first time around.
And since they no longer want the conventional gaskets to be used after removal at the shop, the second time an R56 oil pan is removed will probably be as much of an arduous task as the 1st time.
Don't take this wrong. Unsealing the factory bond is possible for your pending mod, it's just that extreme care and patience is key to it's removal without bending the sealing surface rim....
If you AutoX and are removing the pan for a temp bung maybe consider upgrading to a baffled
oil pan same time ?
gRay rAvEn,
THanks for the help. My wife ran over something today in our driveway with her 2011 R56 and popped a hole in her oil pan. So, I'm going to order a new pan and change it out. Here's my dilemma: I can get both the replacement gasket (BMW #11137565928) and the BMW Liquid Seal (BMW #83190404517). Which one should I use?
I've looked under the car and this looks an easy swap out. Am I missing something? Can you point me to a 2nd Gen DIY String for this procedure?
As always, thanks for your help!!
Can take a look here and see if any of these help answer your question. We just got in an R56 in house and will be adding a lot of DIY content to our Mini tech articles here. I'll be sure to add oil pan on there!
gRay rAvEn,
THanks for the help. My wife ran over something today in our driveway with her 2011 R56 and popped a hole in her oil pan. So, I'm going to order a new pan and change it out. Here's my dilemma: I can get both the replacement gasket (BMW #11137565928) and the BMW Liquid Seal (BMW #83190404517). Which one should I use?
I've looked under the car and this looks an easy swap out. Am I missing something? Can you point me to a 2nd Gen DIY String for this procedure?
As always, thanks for your help!!
More info here: MINI went to the sealant but some people still uses the paper ones. Paper just line up . The sealant will take running a bead and then pressing the pan up, then thread in.
The paper ones seemed to leak more over time which is why MINI changed to the liquid sealant. We used to do a good amount of the paper gaskets under warranty for this reason.
I bought my 2008 R56 S from a buddy with 140k miles on it. Its automagic. 145k now.
-The oil pan proper, plus the seal obviously, has been changed twice by the dealer at 87k and 102k miles.
-Valve cover gaskets have been changed twice, at 95k and 100k.
-The oil feed and return lines on the turbo and chain tensioner seal were changed at 126k miles
- The oil filter housing assembly gaskets were changed at 100k
I'm losing about 1 quart of oil per 500 miles now. So I put some dye in the oil and checked it yesterday and am finding oil in 2 places.
1. At the very rear of the oil pan gasket. So I checked the torque on the 8 mm oil pan bolts and 2 bolts at the very rear were slightly below the 8.8 ft lb spec so I tightened, but the leaking continues.
2. Where the engine and transmission meet. My leak is not nearly as bad as this photo from another member's 2009 S but in the same area.
Could both be caused by the crank seals?
I read that the shaft seal if often the culprit even thought it appears to be the pan. Part 11117568263 or 11117568264. One is left, other is right seal.
Anyone have some decent instructions on changing the crank seal at both ends? Particularly the transmission side which I assume requires dropping the tranny?
Thanks for the links hommie. I order plenty from you guys. Your prices are good. If you shipped as fast as AMAZON you'd be kings of the hill.
However I dont want Mini / BMW or Euro brand seals if I can avoid them. Those bastards havent a clue how to seal an engine. My car has had more seals changed than all the other cars or trucks I've ever owned combined. It leaks like a sieve. Pour the oil in and it practically just pours right on out.
Id rather use FELPRO. Maybe they can do better.
I had a 25 year old Toyota with fewer oil leaks. Its absurd.
Mini, BMW WAKE UP! Get a clue! Hire a Japanese engineer. Do something. Anything!
Thanks for the orders. No felpro version at this time.
Sorry, auto trans you would still drop it and then have to take out the flywheel and torque converter.
You guys should sell FELPRO. Way Motor Works does. FELPRO makes main seals for the r56 N 14 engine.
Ya I know I need to drop the transmission. Problem is Im not even sure the leak is from the inner/ rear main seal since its right under the oil filter housing, whose seals were already changed 30k miles ago. But Ive read that this (see pic) is telltale failed rear main seal....I dont know how oil would make it up and onto the front of the motor from the rear main seal.
11-12-2012, 06:28 PM
