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Hey All. My non-LSD'd R53 is really getting on my nerves at the AutoX track. That being said I am looking to purchase a OSG LSD but I also understand that the installation of a LSD is basically the same for replacing the clutch and flywheel. My question is.. what is the average lifespan of a stock clutch / flywheel on a R53? My car is a 2005 with 44K miles and is primarily driven at the AutoX track (about a 2mile loop) 2-4 days out of the month (the rest is a few days of casual highway driving). I haven't noticed any gear slipping, additional noises, etc but don't want to get this LSD installed and 2 months later notice that the clutch needs to be replaced. At the last tune the car was doing about 210whp so I'm curious what the average lifespan of the clutch would be? If I'm right on the limits I may just bite the bullet and do it but if I can wait to do the clutch and flywheel until the spring and just get the LSD done now to fully enjoy the rest of the AutoX and Track season in New England that would be a bonus. Thanks in advance!
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'05 R53 Pepper White, 16x7 Gram Lights 57Maximum, RMW Tuned, Schrick Cam, 15% Pulley, 440 Injectors, NGK Plugs, MM V2 Exhaust, MM Header, MM Engine Bushings, MM Front Control Arm Bushings, MM CAI, BC BR Coilovers, MM Lower Strut Brace, OMP Lower Stress Bar, OMP Upper Stress Bar, Hotchkis Rear Sway Bar, Carbotech XP8 Pads, Powerslot Slotted Rotors, MSD Coil, MSD Cables, OM Tow Hitch, MM Oil Catch Can, Schroth Harness, Full 50% Cross Weight Alignment... and a Big Stripe
tranny out==big chunk of labor to replace clutch, like most of it so it's the parts that remain to decide but why pull the tranny twice...
decent shop should be able to comment on the condition of the friction disc and throw out bearing etc but if you like to slide that clutch hard on start, or pop it - consider tougher bits. my $.01
that power diff (from stock) isn't the issue on your clutch life, but how you use the clutch to get the power to the ground
33k miles, 3 seasons of AutoX, glazed pressure plate and flywheel, but plenty of friction material left. I measured the clutch thickness as .29in, compared with .33in someone quoted for a newish one. The clutch is considered full warn when it is basically right on the rivets, I was way off that.
I put in a torsen diff but left the stock clutch. Even the throwout bearing was like new, smooth as butter.
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thanks guys. I'll have the shop take a look when they put in the diff in but it sounds like I may be able to hold off for another 6-12 months. Thanks again for your time.
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'05 R53 Pepper White, 16x7 Gram Lights 57Maximum, RMW Tuned, Schrick Cam, 15% Pulley, 440 Injectors, NGK Plugs, MM V2 Exhaust, MM Header, MM Engine Bushings, MM Front Control Arm Bushings, MM CAI, BC BR Coilovers, MM Lower Strut Brace, OMP Lower Stress Bar, OMP Upper Stress Bar, Hotchkis Rear Sway Bar, Carbotech XP8 Pads, Powerslot Slotted Rotors, MSD Coil, MSD Cables, OM Tow Hitch, MM Oil Catch Can, Schroth Harness, Full 50% Cross Weight Alignment... and a Big Stripe
Given the amount of effort to get the tranny off (speaking from personal experience) I would recommend replacing the clutch/pressure plate/flywheel/throwout bearing while the tranny is already out. If the stock set still has some life left then you could always keep it for down the road when/if the replacement set wears out.....
If they have the trans out go ahead and replace it. The cost to pull the trans again is so much that it doesn't make sense to wait.
Listen to this guy. No need to pay for 10-12 hours of labor again in six months to a year. Also for an extra 10 bucks replace the nylon bushings that release fork rod slide on.
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Ramius 02 MCS, 05 trans with Torsen LSD, Act C/FW ,Alta intake, 15% S/c pulley,2% M7 Crank pulley, Bmp header, Magnaflow CB, Alta IC,PSRS,end links, rear control arms. Eibach front and rear sway bars and Megan Coil overs and Swift Springs.