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Over the winter, I installed the ALTA V2 Intercooler, removed the valve cover and patched a crack, and for the 1st start, it was fine. Normal starting normal idle-ing etc etc...Second time I start it, I get the P1229 Code. I cleared it and restarted it several times since then and it hasnt re-appeared. Today I go out to start it, and it starts super rough. Then Idles like hell, and throws the code P0300 code (Multiple Miss fire) I was told to absolutely not drive it. ( The Service Engine Soon light is flashing) I am guessing that it is running extremely rich, b/c I have not had a tune yet. But I guess my main question is, How do I get it running to the point where I can get it tuned somewhere!? Closest place is Indianapolis, IN with Way Motor Works. Any ideas!? Thanks!
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R53 PS MCS, OBX Header, Alta oval exhaust, MSD ignition pack, Brisk spark plugs, Magnecor spark plug wires, Alta CAI, Alta 15% reduction pulley, H&R springs, Arospeed 17" wheels, Nexen tires, tinted windows, black racing stripes
Try going over what you have taken apart and see if you have reconnected everything. I suspect you may have left the Map sensor unhooked or you have a vacuum leak.I don't have a list of Mini specific codes but the number is in the induction range of failure codes.
Try going over what you have taken apart and see if you have reconnected everything. I suspect you may have left the Map sensor unhooked or you have a vacuum leak.I don't have a list of Mini specific codes but the number is in the induction range of failure codes.
As far as a vacuum leak goes, where could that come from besides the intercooler couplers!? And why wouldnt this have happend the 1st time!? Where would the map sensor be!? Thanks for your help!
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R53 PS MCS, OBX Header, Alta oval exhaust, MSD ignition pack, Brisk spark plugs, Magnecor spark plug wires, Alta CAI, Alta 15% reduction pulley, H&R springs, Arospeed 17" wheels, Nexen tires, tinted windows, black racing stripes
Maybe I am missing something, but with a header and a 15% reduction, your car should run fine. Did you install larger injectors? If they are larger than 380's, then they should be removed, and the oem ones installed until right before the tune.
Did you re-set the computer after the mods?
The intercooler boots would be a boost leak, not a vacume leak. A vac leak could be from any one of the vacume lines you have under the hood...the thin rubber/plastic tubing that snakes it's way around under the hood.
Since the car was running well before you fixed a Crack on the valve cover....I would look at all the lines, tubes, and wires you disconnected when you did that work.
And to say it again...you did re-set you computer after you installed the new intercooler right?!
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l 2005 MCS l 11-04 Production l owned since new l RMW Tuned l Craven -17% Pulley l Craven Speed STD l Dinan CAI l JCW 380's l H&R 19 MM Swaybar l MSD Ignition l Power Steering Fan Duct l LightInSight l "EURO" MINI Armrest l Euro Parcel Shelf l Brake Light PULSAR(gen2)l Detroit Tuned Tensioner Stop l Blitzsafe/xmradio l Cobra 19IV CB l 4.5' Francis CB25 CB Antenna, mounted on the rear tow rig!!
There are debates..but you are reseting the ECU's learned adaptations.....
the below method my or may not do it, disconnected the battery for a few minutes will do it be more likely to do it IMO.
Some say it has been de-bunked....some call it an urban legend...but what have you got to loose by trying?! So many people argue till blue in the face, some are MINI pro's, some are not....but it works for some. Nuff said.
How do I reset the ECU?
1. With the key in the ignition, but in the off position, press and hold down the odometer reset button with one hand, while holding the button down, switch the key in the ignition to position 1 (first click) with the other hand.
2. The screen will have a number and the word “tESt”.
3. Scroll through the numbers by pressing the odometer rest button, through to 19 and wait a moment. (Note: the number order is: 1,2,10,19)
4. The message will say 19 "L i-off", flash to "L i-on", and back to "L i-off" again. When "log i-off" appears, press the odometer rest button again. You are now in the system.
5. Scroll through to 21. tESt and wait a moment. 21.0 rESEt will come up. Press the button once.
6. Your gauges will now make some sounds and movements. Once the lights come back on start your car. You have now reset your ECU and your MINI is now ready to relearn the new mods and your driving style.
the only debates about what the cluster reset does if from those that don't have the tools to look at what the ECU is doing who say that the cluster reset does something, and those who do have the tools to see what the ECU is doing and know that it does nothing. But most of us have just given up the fight cause there's no convincing those that don't have and won't find the real data about what it does.
Anyway, driving like crap after some sort of work is most likely associated with something that happened during the service. Not always true but the best place to start.
the only debates about what the cluster reset does if from those that don't have the tools to look at what the ECU is doing who say that the cluster reset does something, and those who do have the tools to see what the ECU is doing and know that it does nothing. But most of us have just given up the fight cause there's no convincing those that don't have and won't find the real data about what it does.
Anyway, driving like crap after some sort of work is most likely associated with something that happened during the service. Not always true but the best place to start.
Matt
True Matt....Very true...I'll bow down and say you do have the superior knowledge! Heck first step in learning is knowing you don't know it all!! Beyond that, Thanks for the explanation..
Hey guys thanks for the advice! I think my best bet is to just take off the intercooler, and check all the lines again...One of my buddies said to also check the fuel filter, b/c if that is plugged, it may not get gas to one of the injectors, or one of the injectors could just be bad in itself. Any ideas on that being the case!?
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R53 PS MCS, OBX Header, Alta oval exhaust, MSD ignition pack, Brisk spark plugs, Magnecor spark plug wires, Alta CAI, Alta 15% reduction pulley, H&R springs, Arospeed 17" wheels, Nexen tires, tinted windows, black racing stripes
PS no I did not reset the ECU after the install of the intercooler. It has been in the garage and never driven since the install...I was un-aware that I needed to. Was I supposed to!? I have never restarted the ECU after an Install...
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R53 PS MCS, OBX Header, Alta oval exhaust, MSD ignition pack, Brisk spark plugs, Magnecor spark plug wires, Alta CAI, Alta 15% reduction pulley, H&R springs, Arospeed 17" wheels, Nexen tires, tinted windows, black racing stripes
the only debates about what the cluster reset does if from those that don't have the tools to look at what the ECU is doing who say that the cluster reset does something, and those who do have the tools to see what the ECU is doing and know that it does nothing. But most of us have just given up the fight cause there's no convincing those that don't have and won't find the real data about what it does.
Anyway, driving like crap after some sort of work is most likely associated with something that happened during the service. Not always true but the best place to start.
PS no I did not reset the ECU after the install of the intercooler. It has been in the garage and never driven since the install...I was un-aware that I needed to. Was I supposed to!? I have never restarted the ECU after an Install...
K i guess ill have to start taking it apart and trying to find out where I went wrong... Ill be sure to let you know what it was, once I find out what exactly it was!
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R53 PS MCS, OBX Header, Alta oval exhaust, MSD ignition pack, Brisk spark plugs, Magnecor spark plug wires, Alta CAI, Alta 15% reduction pulley, H&R springs, Arospeed 17" wheels, Nexen tires, tinted windows, black racing stripes
So i started it again today, and i get P0222 and P0123 Both referring to the TPS...I check it and re checked it, and then checked it again...It seemed to be fine. The wire harness that gets plugged into, has the clip broken off of it, but it still stays plugged in...Anyway, could the TPS be causing my misfires!? And I still havent checked my plugs and coil yet...(left my tools at a buddy's house) And as far as I can see, everything is plugged in!
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R53 PS MCS, OBX Header, Alta oval exhaust, MSD ignition pack, Brisk spark plugs, Magnecor spark plug wires, Alta CAI, Alta 15% reduction pulley, H&R springs, Arospeed 17" wheels, Nexen tires, tinted windows, black racing stripes
Hey all, so today I replaced the plugs, started it up, and BINGO! Runs hella better now! I havent taken it out of the garage for a test drive though :/ The EML light popped on, and i forgot what the Scan Gauge said it was...Any Ideas!? Someone on another forum said it was the bypass valve. Hmm...Thansk for all your help!
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R53 PS MCS, OBX Header, Alta oval exhaust, MSD ignition pack, Brisk spark plugs, Magnecor spark plug wires, Alta CAI, Alta 15% reduction pulley, H&R springs, Arospeed 17" wheels, Nexen tires, tinted windows, black racing stripes
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