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So my 2003 MCS with 70k miles is very hard to shift smoothly. In fact, after 3,000 miles of driving it, I still don't feel like I have the timing down, especially between 1st and 2nd, 2nd and 3rd. Further, when my foot is off the pedal and I suddenly step on it, I can feel some very serious drivetrain lash.
I got to thinking, do I need to replace my motor mounts? Or should I get one of the TSW dampers? I have an 03 so my motor mounts are actually the rubber ones, not the oil-filled ones. Which part is going to make the biggest difference for me?
The TSW Damper will help for sure and with 70K some IE bushings would help too. I'd try the Damper Kit 1st since it will help without as much extra vib that the other poly mounts will give you.
I disagree......if the mounts are that bad, adding a damper to the mix is only going to put a bandaid on a more severe problem. A set of bushings will cost less than the damper will.
Your upper mount (one bolted to the strut tower) is most likely bad and replacing that should be high on your list. 'Should' only cost you $50 or so from Mini Mania. The older 'main' mounts are also filled with oil, not entirely rubber, but they have less issues. That might be bad as well, but without photos is hard to tell.
All the mounts are very easy to replace, and if you choose to do the tranny inserts (highly suggested) the hardest part will be removing everything to get to the mount itself.
Personally i have the IE inserts in the lower and the tranny, with a dampner on the pass. side. I get some vibration at idle, but the positive fill gain is VERY worth that tiny NVH.
The TSW Damper will help for sure and with 70K some IE bushings would help too. I'd try the Damper Kit 1st since it will help without as much extra vib that the other poly mounts will give you.
This was based on the thought that his OEM bushings were not bad.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigshot
I disagree......if the mounts are that bad, adding a damper to the mix is only going to put a bandaid on a more severe problem. A set of bushings will cost less than the damper will.
We have the complete Powerflex Engine bush packages for both the early and late cars. These are an afordable set that will def. cut down on the engine rock.
Yes you can probaly install these yourself. They only need hand tools to install and a little time.
Grab the mounts - we'll put them in with the pulleys - PS - I have the TSW damper in my 03 - it REALLY helped with shifts and drivetrain movement. I've gotta add the powerflex stuff too. Clutch/flywheel first...
__________________ MOTORING ADVISOR @ HERB CHAMBERS MINI OF BOSTON
'03 MCS : 6SPD : JB/B : 82K MI : RMW TUNED (201.1WHP BEFORE NEW BELT, 17%, NEW CAT) : K&N 1550 HAI : CM FX300 : JBR FW : WMW 17% : 380CC : MSD : HOTWIRES : TSW DAMPER : MILLTEK : B&M SSK : TT BOOT : H&R'S : SPARCO MILANOS : CHROMELINE : BOBCATS : TSW CARBONS : STOPTECH SS LINES : BRASS BUSHINGS : VIS CF HOOD
We have the complete Powerflex Engine bush packages for both the early and late cars. These are an afordable set that will def. cut down on the engine rock.
Yes you can probaly install these yourself. They only need hand tools to install and a little time.
Wow, $85 for all bushings needed for 06?
__________________ 2006 MINI Cooper JCW GP0019
RMW tune & cams*17% pulley*ITG filter*Brisk plugs*H-Sport Comp RSB*KMac camber plates*resonator delete*TSW studs/jack pads*H&R 5mm spacer*CT AX6 pads*Motul RBF600*RedLine*15x7 Motegi TrakLites2*Nitto NT01 205/50-15 BRG/W 2003 MINI Cooper S R.I.P. Sheila
We have the complete Powerflex Engine bush packages for both the early and late cars. These are an afordable set that will def. cut down on the engine rock.
Yes you can probaly install these yourself. They only need hand tools to install and a little time.
Why don't you included the small bushings in the later cars?
- PS - I have the TSW damper in my 03 - it REALLY helped with shifts and drivetrain movement. .........
me too, get the TSW damper, tighten it up until you like it .It will help the car as it was made to be smooth and because of that the motor will move around(wind up and then let go) on the liquid motor mounts when changing gears and starting off.
__________________ 2009 fJCW BamaCooperS's ole Red
I have a poly mount on my lower large engine bushing, and I had one on the trans mount which was great for reducing lash, but the vibration was killing me so I took it off after like 1000 miles. (Still have it if anyone wants to buy it!) I still have to do the upper mount, but I kept reading that the lower mount was the one that took the brunt of engine movement.