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Whoever can answer this question, please feel free:
In your data on the Thumper site re the TP2 head, it recommends 17-19% pulley. Would a 15% SC combined with a 2% (or 4%) crank pulley achieve the roughly the same result?
Is there any reason other than price, that you recommend the TP1 for a DD, vs. a TP2? Is the TP2 rougher, less dependable or something? Or is it just a budget issue? Thanks again.
And, also, have you tested the TP2 with a 15% SC pulley alone? If so, what have you found?
Thanks.
Also, I thought I saw in another sheet that the big valves on the TP2 are +1.5? Correct? or did I misread?
good morning.. all this does is show that, here are other styles and performance gains out there. There are other options for you MINI. and costs for your wallet. It shows that with work the power levels can be obtained. How this goes side ways is beyond most. The Shop in the UK did some runs on my TPR-2 head, and this was the results. It did what it did, how it did and where it did. That is all.
This ISNT one head is better than the other. This isnt about valve size. This is one Head results with a bit of work. There is no need to appolizise to anyone... We are not in control of what people put on boards, or when!! Dustin is only here to help people with their MINI's and performance gains..
I am also here for that.. Paul in the UK at 1320 did the work with the head on HIS MINI. Then posted the results..Kudos to him!
This site seems to over analyze everything.. this is good. But settle down folks. Look at this post and then move on. Email me if you have specific concerns if you want.. This is just another Head option for those looking for one.
So we are comparing two different engines in two different cars . On top of that one had the very first and only RMW remote tune that proved it wasn't the way to tune compared to the tune from Chris who's spent how much time tuning that car now Paul.
Apples to Bananas at best.
Longboard
eaters and cookers more like
i can confirm that bigshows mini has spent more time on the rollers than just about anyone in the uk, swaping mods of various kinds, trying different things, various tunes & combinations just to see what works....
this months flavour being the front mount intercooler
to suggest that the paul/thumper combo has had loads of extra "tune time" put into it is laughable
i am sure that any tuner or tradesman will tell you that when your busy your own car/house/project will always come last, ie when all your client work is done
as that's what pays the bills
So we are comparing two different engines in two different cars . On top of that one had the very first and only RMW remote tune that proved it wasn't the way to tune compared to the tune from Chris who's spent how much time tuning that car now Paul.
Apples to Bananas at best.
Longboard
Jan tuned two cars here remotely Longboard, Also I seem to remember how he was promoting this fact and that Big Shows took the world mph record of Isellem for an M45 car in the 1/4 mile.
Not long to be honest, couple of hours I suppose, we really haven't spent the time I would of like on it.
We also have finally found our electrical fault, so all the data we had before really is useless so we'll have to start it all over again.
So I've just put up the data that we have at the moment, but I can safely say I believe there's a bit more to come.
Whoever can answer this question, please feel free:
In your data on the Thumper site re the TP2 head, it recommends 17-19% pulley. Would a 15% SC combined with a 2% (or 4%) crank pulley achieve the roughly the same result?
Is there any reason other than price, that you recommend the TP1 for a DD, vs. a TP2? Is the TP2 rougher, less dependable or something? Or is it just a budget issue? Thanks again.
And, also, have you tested the TP2 with a 15% SC pulley alone? If so, what have you found?
Thanks.
Also, I thought I saw in another sheet that the big valves on the TP2 are +1.5? Correct? or did I misread?
Thanks yet again!!
The head that is on it is .5mm over Intake and 1mm over Exhaust
The TP2 head with 15% pulley, Janspeed manifold, JCW CAI, stock cat back and newman cam generated the same hp/trq curve as Jaw F430's RMW head Janspeed JCW CAI 15% stock cat back newman cam combo.
Whoever can answer this question, please feel free:
In your data on the Thumper site re the TP2 head, it recommends 17-19% pulley. Would a 15% SC combined with a 2% (or 4%) crank pulley achieve the roughly the same result?
Is there any reason other than price, that you recommend the TP1 for a DD, vs. a TP2? Is the TP2 rougher, less dependable or something? Or is it just a budget issue? Thanks again.
And, also, have you tested the TP2 with a 15% SC pulley alone? If so, what have you found? Thanks yet again!!
Hello Mark,
A 15% with 2% is basically like running a 17% on stock crack pulley.
It's just dollars. We don't see any reason why the TP2 head will not give the same service as the TP1 head. Think of it like salsa
TP1 Mild
TP2 Hot
TP3 FIRE
Best way to know what will work best for you is to email us at Thumperheads@autoxcooper.com tell us what your driving goals are, the mods you plan to run with the head and your budget. We'll work up some idea's and move forward on the same page.
The head that is on it is .5mm over Intake and 1mm over Exhaust
The TP2 head with 15% pulley, Janspeed manifold, JCW CAI, stock cat back and newman cam generated the same hp/trq curve as Jaw F430's RMW head Janspeed JCW CAI 15% stock cat back newman cam combo.
how big can the exhaust valves get? will making them bigger give more low-mid range torque? if you keep the intake valves the same size, or is 1mm over exhaust about right for a road car?
how big can the exhaust valves get? will making them bigger give more low-mid range torque? if you keep the intake valves the same size, or is 1mm over exhaust about right for a road car?
There are heads with +1.8 and +2.0 mm!! It isnt the valve size, it is the rest of the work that goes into the Head. I know that when the Ported Heads started hitting the sites.. it was the easiest way to describe the heads.. we have this size, or we have this size, or you need this size.. the valve size is just a small part of the whole performance gain.
The idea is to keep the air flow as high as you can.. velocity. If boost is in the equation.. that moves air faster than naturally. However the figuration of all the associated parts of the Head, have to work together. IF not you have big holes and big top end, when you usually need smaller holes and better mid to low end( unless you are on the track doing 7000-8000 rpm into the turns.. This is all basic.. look at the 4 valve heads vs the two valve heads, 4 v carb vs the 2 v carb.. air flow and velocity!! Too help, go to any cylinder Head site on the web.. they usually go deep into the flow and velocity procedures.. cool??
The idea is to try and get the Head that will enhance the performance levels that you drive in... not a head that you need to change to accept. thus the 3 different levels. get a cup of coffee and hit the web.. it will help you quite a bit in your decisions on a cylinder Head.
Whoever can answer this question, please feel free:
In your data on the Thumper site re the TP2 head, it recommends 17-19% pulley. Would a 15% SC combined with a 2% (or 4%) crank pulley achieve the roughly the same result?
Is there any reason other than price, that you recommend the TP1 for a DD, vs. a TP2? Is the TP2 rougher, less dependable or something? Or is it just a budget issue? Thanks again.
And, also, have you tested the TP2 with a 15% SC pulley alone? If so, what have you found?
Thanks.
Also, I thought I saw in another sheet that the big valves on the TP2 are +1.5? Correct? or did I misread?
Thanks yet again!!
What you read were just guidelines.. or , if you have an engine that will only do this... then why put a head on that NEEDs this to work. Bolting a HEAD that will make 300 BHP on my car doesnt mean it will on yours, unless you have all the parts and mods to allow that. Cool??
Thus the 3 different heads.. they are all different from each other, not only in valve size but in throat/ runners/ roof of the port/ valve seat area.. get what I mean. Thus the differance in the cost of the different Heads. Most of my Heads out there are the TPR-1 !! Stock valve size !! Most slightly mod'd engines will have a lot of power/ torque and great street power, and still a lot of room to grow in the future and a good cam comes out .. Or a Header or a water-meth system.. the TPR-1 is STILL in there.
IF you are a race car.. then go big!! If not.. then you DONT need big.. cool??
Why the clutch and box swap Paul? Something break or you trying out other bits and searching for traction? How much more N20 you going to run tomorrow? Dry or custom wet system? Photos please.
Jeremy
__________________ 2004 Liquid Yellow MCS Sport/Chrome Pkg, 17% Alta SC Pulley, Alta Intake, Alta IC Diverter, Ultrik Cam, CM Flywheel/FX200, OBX ATB Diff, JCW Fuel Injectors and Software, Edge Racing Sport Header with Magnaflow Cat, 1 Ball Exhaust, JCW Plugs, Powerflex Front Subframe Bushings, Powerflex Motor Mount Inserts, Alta Springs, Alta Lower Control Arms, Alta 19mm Rear Sway Bar, Rear Seat Deleted, 17 by 7 O.Z. Ultraleggeras, Auto Meter Boost/Vacuum And Oil Pressure Gauges.
with the slicks as tall as they are I can go over the line in 4th gear now, so savin the 4 to 5 change.
My best 60fts have always been with the early gearbox as well, most off the life style events we get invited to come at the price of the track not being so good as well.
It might pick up a couple of mph tomorrow so not mush more, but I'm more interested in finding a consistant combo for a not so good track, I've taken some nitrous out of 1st gear to try and get back into the 1.7s again and to try and stop me short shifting :(
We'll try to get back into the 11s again, but hey it might just be one of those 12.0s days