You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!
Use a tray like Dr Phil that ataches to the cut shroud
Only make a plate that fits across the top of the cut shroud that includes the Docs piece, allow for the hose to go under the plate & divert air to the engine
Then fence off different sections of the plate, IE - AGS area or where you want air & build some fence for the radiator below ala Dr Phils post - air leakage. There may be too much air taken from the 2 radiators if there is no box. When I refer to a radiator box, this does not mean an offical sealed box but rather some type of collection fence to keep as much air to the radiator as possible ( BMW thought enough about it to seal off the shroud. We need to know more from Dr Phil on this issue since it's warm where he is, hot might be a better description ).
You can see in Sids pic that there is plenty of area to devide as needed with various fences without the time spent to make compound bends. I'v been thinking about this pic all day & how much sealing there would need to be done so that the best air would be available for the vaioius issues. Not there yet. I need some time so I can get to work on the car......... No time for the wicked I guess.
TonyBs pic shows how much more air is available over the stock "S" when the areo grill is used ( I like that there is some air diversion on the radiator ).
When removing the rubber seal from the radiator shroud there is a noticeable difference in under hood temps with the areo grill but only when the car is moving. In heavy traffic, with hot weather, the system recovery is slow, enough that the ruber seal, indeed, makes a difference.
Venting on top helps also with an exit or flow path, from my readings (need to qualify my statements). As I said, I think in another thread, the cowl grilles, with bonnet liner removed (and more so with the rubber stripping also), act as an escape for hot air, paricularly when motionless.Today 03:23 PM
As TonyB points out with this statement, the sealing part, where & how much.
__________________ 2003 S, IB/ W, no HK sound, leather or power seats but everything else.
the fan for the radiator moves air yes? so is it possible to have it run more frequently and move more air across the engine ? lower the set point a bit ?
__________________
HERBIE HIND
04 mcs hai, 15%, alta full,mm oil cooler, auto meters, modded bpv,konig 16's ,faulkins,tex spd wrks rotors , m7 strut brace . webb head, methanol inj.380cc helix's,giac tune. m7 cc .
Whatever you use you need to make sure that it conducts heat well, otherwise the heatsink won't really do you any good. I wonder what kind of adhesive they use when they attach them in computers and what not.
__________________
'09 MCC, Nighfire Red, Premium, Sport, Nav
Whatever you use you need to make sure that it conducts heat well, otherwise the heatsink won't really do you any good. I wonder what kind of adhesive they use when they attach them in computers and what not.
I believe they're kinda like a jell substance...not really good for bonding...I think JBweld is dense enough to conduct heat and the material needed would be relatively thin anyway...
__________________ Famous last words..."I'm just going to change the wheels and tires...I promise"
not sure how hot it can get before it melts... i've personally pushed it to 90 deg celcius on some parts of my motherboard and video card memory.
edit:
Quote:
Originally Posted by newegg.com
Features Made with 99.8% pure micronized Silver
62% to 65% Silver content by weight
Superior thermal conductivity. Greater than 7.5W/mK.
Temperature Range is -40C to >150C
Caution:
Arctic Silver Thermal Adhesive is a permanent adhesive. Components you attach with
Arctic Silver Thermal Adhesive will stay attached forever.
__________________
I'm the pink power ranger...
Last edited by minimusprime; 05-15-2007 at 06:28 PM.
I too was thinking of JB, but it's darn near permanent though. It might conduct quite well, but I'm not sure. Wouldn't take much experimentation to find-out...
That epoxy seems to be the way to go!
__________________
Weight ('03 IB MCS): 2,424 lbs (corner-balanced, 1/4 tank gas)
I too was thinking of JB, but it's darn near permanent though. It might conduct quite well, but I'm not sure. Wouldn't take much experimentation to find-out...
That epoxy seems to be the way to go!
Well...if nothing else, they'll look COOL...pardon the pun...
__________________ Famous last words..."I'm just going to change the wheels and tires...I promise"
Just exactly how much glue is in this kit? I can't tell by the picture...I need enough to cover two 1" x 4.5" surfaces...
I just went and looked at my tubes of it. I'd say that it will cover the bottom of both of the heatsinks with a layer sufficient to use them on computer applications. With that you want it ample to make contact but thin enough to not waste energy.
You'll probobly want a bit more so I'd honestly get 2 if you are going to order. The stuff is cool as heck to have around. It's the real deal epoxy and dries hard. Conducts electicity to a small degree as well. This stuff, jb weld, duct tape and a hammer and i could piece a house back together. lol
I just went and looked at my tubes of it. I'd say that it will cover the bottom of both of the heatsinks with a layer sufficient to use them on computer applications. With that you want it ample to make contact but thin enough to not waste energy.
You'll probobly want a bit more so I'd honestly get 2 if you are going to order. The stuff is cool as heck to have around. It's the real deal epoxy and dries hard. Conducts electicity to a small degree as well. This stuff, jb weld, duct tape and a hammer and i could piece a house back together. lol
__________________ Famous last words..."I'm just going to change the wheels and tires...I promise"
Joaquin, what about engine movement? I left about 3/4" between my diverter and the manifold and the diverter is bent down to let air flow under the manifold. Are you running an engine damper? Before I put mine on, the engine moved 3/4" totally--now it moves about 3/8".
And are you going to add sides to the diverter, like I have? What about air that will leak out the sides?
OOOOOOOOoooo...I hate you and your sheet metal bench...
Where's yours? I've been waiting all day to see it.
I know you've been working on another project, and it looks pretty sweet!
Did you get my voicemail?
Joaquin, what about engine movement? I left about 3/4" between my diverter and the manifold and the diverter is bent down to let air flow under the manifold. Are you running an engine damper? Before I put mine on, the engine moved 3/4" totally--now it moves about 3/8".
And are you going to add sides to the diverter, like I have? What about air that will leak out the sides?
Lookin' good, my man!
Thanks, there is a gap there, you just can't really see it. Engine movement under acceleration is away from the IMD, I drove all the way home from the shop without any new noises, so I think it's good.
Yes, I have a damper, I actually have the very first one from LordOfTheFlies(i'm the one who showed him how to mount it with no brackets)but, I think I may experiment with different style damper.
I am going to fence off the IMD, I just have to figure out the best way to do it.
Joaquin, looks good! I like the bleeder access, the overall more finished look. I look forward to playing some catch-up with you all! I'm thinking about wrapping the hose to better retain the heat within it, and still have a diverter for improved directional flow for the intake manifold.
I'm really intrigued by the heat sink! For validation that this works, I'd say get two indetical chunks of scrap metal, the only difference is that one will have a heat sink. Heat each one up with something like a torch, or leave them both in the afternoon soon, and see what kind of delta there is between the two. Maybe even have a fan to provide some airflow as well...
__________________
Weight ('03 IB MCS): 2,424 lbs (corner-balanced, 1/4 tank gas)
Where's yours? I've been waiting all day to see it.
I know you've been working on another project, and it looks pretty sweet!
Did you get my voicemail?
You mean the vise on the floor?
My cell is dead...please PM me?
__________________ Famous last words..."I'm just going to change the wheels and tires...I promise"
Joaquin, looks good! I like the bleeder access, the overall more finished look. I look forward to playing some catch-up with you all! I'm thinking about wrapping the hose to better retain the heat within it, and still have a diverter for improved directional flow for the intake manifold.
Thanks Tony. I like the idea of wrapping the hose, let me know if you are thinking of using something specific.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyB
I'm really intrigued by the heat sink! For validation that this works, I'd say get two indetical chunks of scrap metal, the only difference is that one will have a heat sink. Heat each one up with something like a torch, or leave them both in the afternoon soon, and see what kind of delta there is between the two. Maybe even have a fan to provide some airflow as well...
It is rather interesting, and the only way to know is to try. I'm sure Sid will let us know how it works.
Sid, or anyone else, what do these heat sinks cost, and are there some types better than others, or better for this application?
I think it will be hard to discern if this works on our MINI, with so many dynamics at play. I really hope we can get some proof with some simple, controlled testing, like what I provided in my previous post...
__________________
Weight ('03 IB MCS): 2,424 lbs (corner-balanced, 1/4 tank gas)
2003 S, IB/ W, no HK sound, leather or power seats but everything else.
