SCDA HPDE Schedule
#1955
zre: Stay away from the TCE rear kit on a Gen2 MINI unless you are also willing to replace the e-brake cable with a longer one. (Apparently the kit fits Gen1s much better). Wilwood makes a long e-brake cable, and requires it for their rear brake kit, but it is a big job. TCE claims their kit will work without a new e-brake cable but based on my experience over the past few weeks I question that. I thought I had it working but after a few happy turns I had trouble again. Once I detached the cable from the brakes everything loosened up again but I don't want to drive around with no e-brake.
Bottom Line: After many hours of trying to get the $600 kit to work I put the OEM rotors back on. I have to decide whether to tackle the cable job some day or sell the kit to cut my losses. TCE has been very supportive and responsive but the only answer they have for me is to replace the cable.
Of course, if YOU would like to take a crack at it I will sell you my kit for half what I paid. I may even deliver it to your doorstep. :lol
Bottom Line: After many hours of trying to get the $600 kit to work I put the OEM rotors back on. I have to decide whether to tackle the cable job some day or sell the kit to cut my losses. TCE has been very supportive and responsive but the only answer they have for me is to replace the cable.
Of course, if YOU would like to take a crack at it I will sell you my kit for half what I paid. I may even deliver it to your doorstep. :lol
#1956
Went to have car aligned. Found out that the front tie rod ends are rusted tight. Dealer wanted $990.00 to fix. Found a local shop to do for $545.00 Will have done on Tuesday then complete alignment. Going with -2 degrees front, 0 toe, -1.5 degrees rear, 1/16 toe in. This was recommended by Swift. I also think I need to replace drop links.
$500 to do what change the outer Tie rods?
#1957
Do you have picture of what you are referring to? Is it just that the cable is making the pads tight even when the ebrake is not engaged? Or something else. I also had to Mod my trailing arms to make the R56 JCW caliper fit with the R56 ebrakes and SS lines on my R53. Still waiting for the clips for the R56 Ebrake.
This is my Build thread if you are interested. Hopefully i can meet you guys at the track, was hoping i could make it to WGI, but i don't think it will happen.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-turtel-3.html
This is my Build thread if you are interested. Hopefully i can meet you guys at the track, was hoping i could make it to WGI, but i don't think it will happen.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-turtel-3.html
zre: Stay away from the TCE rear kit on a Gen2 MINI unless you are also willing to replace the e-brake cable with a longer one. (Apparently the kit fits Gen1s much better). Wilwood makes a long e-brake cable, and requires it for their rear brake kit, but it is a big job. TCE claims their kit will work without a new e-brake cable but based on my experience over the past few weeks I question that. I thought I had it working but after a few happy turns I had trouble again. Once I detached the cable from the brakes everything loosened up again but I don't want to drive around with no e-brake.
Bottom Line: After many hours of trying to get the $600 kit to work I put the OEM rotors back on. I have to decide whether to tackle the cable job some day or sell the kit to cut my losses. TCE has been very supportive and responsive but the only answer they have for me is to replace the cable.
Of course, if YOU would like to take a crack at it I will sell you my kit for half what I paid. I may even deliver it to your doorstep. :lol
Bottom Line: After many hours of trying to get the $600 kit to work I put the OEM rotors back on. I have to decide whether to tackle the cable job some day or sell the kit to cut my losses. TCE has been very supportive and responsive but the only answer they have for me is to replace the cable.
Of course, if YOU would like to take a crack at it I will sell you my kit for half what I paid. I may even deliver it to your doorstep. :lol
#1958
Drop links are the connecting rods between the sway bar and damper or suspension. Adjustable ones allow for pre-set to tune. The outer tie rod ends are rusted to the inner and will not allow for adjustment. They will probably have to be cut off and replaced. Parts are about $250 ( $ 125 ea) with labor. I would do myself but do not have the time.
gkp: Waymotors has a kit to put JCW rotors on rear, was always considering this but other threads indicated that it was not worth it since the fronts do most of the work, but I see TCE point about brake balance and since I had an issue with the balance last time out I thought this might be an option.
gkp: Waymotors has a kit to put JCW rotors on rear, was always considering this but other threads indicated that it was not worth it since the fronts do most of the work, but I see TCE point about brake balance and since I had an issue with the balance last time out I thought this might be an option.
#1959
Drop links are the connecting rods between the sway bar and damper or suspension. Adjustable ones allow for pre-set to tune. The outer tie rod ends are rusted to the inner and will not allow for adjustment. They will probably have to be cut off and replaced. Parts are about $250 ( $ 125 ea) with labor. I would do myself but do not have the time.
gkp: Waymotors has a kit to put JCW rotors on rear, was always considering this but other threads indicated that it was not worth it since the fronts do most of the work, but I see TCE point about brake balance and since I had an issue with the balance last time out I thought this might be an option.
gkp: Waymotors has a kit to put JCW rotors on rear, was always considering this but other threads indicated that it was not worth it since the fronts do most of the work, but I see TCE point about brake balance and since I had an issue with the balance last time out I thought this might be an option.
Same thing happen when i was refreshing my subframe, but some fire did the trick.
#1961
[QUOTE=HaveATank;4211120]Do you have picture of what you are referring to? Is it just that the cable is making the pads tight even when the ebrake is not engaged? Or something else.
No pix. I took the kit off and went back to the OEM rotors for now. I speculate that one of two things is going on: either the cable is being pulled so tight that the e-brake is being slightly engaged even when the handle is down ... or the pressure from the cable is somehow pulling the brake out of square under certain conditions.
No pix. I took the kit off and went back to the OEM rotors for now. I speculate that one of two things is going on: either the cable is being pulled so tight that the e-brake is being slightly engaged even when the handle is down ... or the pressure from the cable is somehow pulling the brake out of square under certain conditions.
#1962
[QUOTE=zre;4211173
gkp: and since I had an issue with the balance last time out I thought this might be an option.[/QUOTE]
zre: What did the balance issue feel like? Balance was definitely a concern with going to the front BBK. I'll be at LRP in a few weeks and see how it goes. Then I'll decide what, if anything, to do with the rears.
gkp: and since I had an issue with the balance last time out I thought this might be an option.[/QUOTE]
zre: What did the balance issue feel like? Balance was definitely a concern with going to the front BBK. I'll be at LRP in a few weeks and see how it goes. Then I'll decide what, if anything, to do with the rears.
#1963
#1964
OVERDRIVE
iTrader: (1)
My tail end wagging under braking seems to have been cured by my new shocks. Seems that the front shocks may have developed some slop. On the other hand I ran stock brake pads in the rear which are a little less grippy than the XP8s I usually run. Those will go in for WGI in a couple of weeks. Maybe the tail wag is a function of the pads. I'll let you know.
#1969
OVERDRIVE
iTrader: (1)
Zre, s-driver great to see and hang out with you guys. They were great races! I enjoyed watching them. While waiting for traffic to clear I talked to the owner of the MINI Cooper. Seems like a nice guy. He has three cars; 2 Cooper and VW, I think. He was packing it in so we didn't talk much.
If anyone hears anything about the drivers of the cars that wrecked, let us know.
If anyone hears anything about the drivers of the cars that wrecked, let us know.
#1970
Zre, s-driver great to see and hang out with you guys. They were great races! I enjoyed watching them. While waiting for traffic to clear I talked to the owner of the MINI Cooper. Seems like a nice guy. He has three cars; 2 Cooper and VW, I think. He was packing it in so we didn't talk much.
If anyone hears anything about the drivers of the cars that wrecked, let us know.
If anyone hears anything about the drivers of the cars that wrecked, let us know.
http://sportscar365.com/gt/world-cha...rock-accident/
#1972
#1974
Brought it to a local shop that has a guy who knows MINIs. He put never seize on but will do your trick when I install new ends links ordered from M7. Which brake fluid did you order?
Still trying to find clunk in rear hopefully the endlinks will solve issue. If not then I may need to replace bushings or upper control arms.
Still trying to find clunk in rear hopefully the endlinks will solve issue. If not then I may need to replace bushings or upper control arms.