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Today, Clara is going to get a full work-over. She's got some spider-webby-ness that came from the dealership and on the PW it's not that noticible but the pillars being black, look like @ss. So I want to M80 (or maybe Amigo, I haven't decided yet) the entire car and then re-Epic.
I have black bonnet/boot stripes with chrome pinstripes on the sides of them. The black is printed onto the chrome stripe. I can't imagine that I can just polish right over these, can I? Should I tape them off?
I have OEM bonnet and Aesthetic Creations boot stripes, and I polished both using Griot's machine polish. Before that, the bonnet stripes were looking a bit mottled, and a few seconds with the PC really shined them right up. I DID NOTICE however that I had black deposits on my pad instantly, so I was definitely pulling off some material. I just applied LIGHT pressure and only did the buffing for a few seconds at a time.
Since you have different stripes, I'm not sure what will happen, but in my case anyway even using Porter Cable didn't mess them up. Are the stripes filled with spider webs or other things you'd prefer to eliminate? If ypu're doing it by hand, I'd just do a SMALL part with gentle pressure as a test and see what it looks like before doing something to the entire stripe.
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~Matt Cook | Dublin, Ohio | '92 Classic Mini Sprite: "Fiona" + Purple Haze 2005 MCS Cabrio: "Dawn". See old MODs from "Nano" HERE - post #166 - many with How-to links!
If you apply too much pressure and or leave the machine on for too long they will loose their black. I did just this when I was trying to get out the stupid washer jet stain. I noticed what was happening before too much damage and only I would know where to look (and now you but don't tell anyone).
So I would say Epic, no problem, Amigo, no problem as long as you pay attention to pressure and duration. I can't say about M80 but I know someone who can.
For your swirls on the Pillar, I think I would try either Amigo on the orange pad or possibly Swirl on the white.
I've read a lot of posts where people's black stripes are really lightened when they do stuff to them. If the stripes are in good condition, I would tape them off...
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Note that there is a difference from PRINTED stripes and black vinyl stripes. The ink from printed vinyl will come off when you buff, especially if you're using a paint cleaner--it's doing its job.
As always, if you're unsure, just take some blue painters tape and VERY lightly tape over it. You might try removing some of the tack first on the tape. Also when pressing the tape down, don't smooth it down so it's stuck really well--you want to be able to remove the tape without damaging the vinyl. If possible, just press the edges down on the tape surrounding the vinyl so you have removable protection that isn't sticking directly to it.
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Ocatne, do you know if the OEM bonnet stripes are true vinyl or are printed? I know my Aesthetic Creations boot stripes are vinyl and are a slightly different sheen than my factory-installed hood stripes.
In my case, just using the weight of the PC with little or no pressure made both sets of stripes look better than they did "out of the box".
Thanks!
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~Matt Cook | Dublin, Ohio | '92 Classic Mini Sprite: "Fiona" + Purple Haze 2005 MCS Cabrio: "Dawn". See old MODs from "Nano" HERE - post #166 - many with How-to links!
Unless the OEM stripes have changed, they are not printed and won't come off when buffing. Still you should take care regardless unless they are white.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ImagoX
Ocatne, do you know if the OEM bonnet stripes are true vinyl or are printed? I know my Aesthetic Creations boot stripes are vinyl and are a slightly different sheen than my factory-installed hood stripes.
In my case, just using the weight of the PC with little or no pressure made both sets of stripes look better than they did "out of the box".
Thanks!
__________________ 5548 E. La Palma Ave., Anaheim, CA 92807 866 707 9292
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Agree - don't use too much pressure on the stripes. Just the weight of the polisher for a few seconds made my stripes look better than new. Good to know that they're true vinyl, although I wasn't TOO worried - I figured that a replacement set only costs like $50 if I ended up messing them up by accident..
The silver and black ones the OP was speking of, though, sound like they may be printed (black over a silver base, unless they used black vinyl with silver trim peices). Hmmm...
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~Matt Cook | Dublin, Ohio | '92 Classic Mini Sprite: "Fiona" + Purple Haze 2005 MCS Cabrio: "Dawn". See old MODs from "Nano" HERE - post #166 - many with How-to links!
The entire back of the stripes when I applied them was the chrome stuff. The stripes are in good shape though so I think I'll just tape them off; I'd rather be safe than sorry.
I ended up not getting around to it anyway today but it'll be happening tomorrow. I can't wait for it to be done, the swirlies are driving me nuts!
Unless the OEM stripes have changed, they are not printed and won't come off when buffing. Still you should take care regardless unless they are white.
What about the black pin stripe on the OEM white stripes? That is my biggest worry & UGH the black is at the edge so I am scared of taping off or trying to get the PC very close to the edge if I leave them untaped.
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Tact is for people who aren't witty enough to be sarcastic...
So I would say Epic, no problem, Amigo, no problem as long as you pay attention to pressure and duration. I can't say about M80 but I know someone who can.
For your swirls on the Pillar, I think I would try either Amigo on the orange pad or possibly Swirl on the white.
I agree with MiniMaybee's prescription- especially regarding the pillars. Either Amigo and the orange pad or Swirl with the white pad (maybe with the orange pad then white pad... you'll have to experiment). My guess is that Amigo will not be enough to remove your swirls. It will remove some very fine swirls and conceal some others. If I were you, I'd go straight to Swirl.
Remember, the pad density will also play a role in the outcome- regarding polishing/waxing your stripes...
I would actually recommend going over the stripes with a black pad and Epic. The pad is super soft and Epic has zero abrasives... so you will only gain from doing this. The Epic will help protect your stripes just as it does your paint. Plus, it will give them that nice glossy wetness too! Of course, don't add any pressure at all to the PC while applying Epic. The natural weight of the machine is plenty of pressure.
I would use the Amigo on the stripes only if you felt you really need some cleansing on them. In that case, I would pair Amigo with a black or white pad... not the orange. You'd probably be fine with the orange pad too but it would be an unnecessary risk.
So far, nobody has expressed concern over this, but I would be hesitant to use the PC Buffer on the vinyl decals of any kind. Wouldn't it tend to raise the edges of the stripes or other decals due to the rotation of the pad against the edge ?
Same with the edge of the clearbra. When I had mine installed, I was told not to go against the edge, always buff in the direction away from the edge and not against it.
let me offer an alternative. I had the same problem, except that i accidently waxed my black bonnet stripes before I knew the difference. I suggest you contact a decent graphics buisness and see if you can get them to tape off and clear coat your stripes. I had mine done right on the car with no overspray. Now I dont have an issue, I can wax them to my hearts content.
Although I still prefer to just wax near them and wipe away any wax that gets on them. But they are no longer affected. I would have had black vinyl put down but I have a clearbra over the lower half. Once they start to look bad, im just going to have them trimmed and a new strip placed over them. Maybe not the prettiest, but cheaper the replacing the clearbra.
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So far, nobody has expressed concern over this, but I would be hesitant to use the PC Buffer on the vinyl decals of any kind. Wouldn't it tend to raise the edges of the stripes or other decals due to the rotation of the pad against the edge ?
Same with the edge of the clearbra. When I had mine installed, I was told not to go against the edge, always buff in the direction away from the edge and not against it.
just tape over the edge (1/4 painters tape) and you should be well protected.
So far, nobody has expressed concern over this, but I would be hesitant to use the PC Buffer on the vinyl decals of any kind. Wouldn't it tend to raise the edges of the stripes or other decals due to the rotation of the pad against the edge ?
Same with the edge of the clearbra. When I had mine installed, I was told not to go against the edge, always buff in the direction away from the edge and not against it.
The PC could tear/raise the edges of vinyl decals and/or clearbra if you were to use an aggresive pad and/or product.
However, there is no danger whatsoever of using a finishing pad, like the LC black pad, and a non-abrasive like Epic on decals or clearbra. If you're really nervous about the edges, just apply right up to the edges all around. Then, stop the PC and restart right on top of the decal or clearbra. Continue applying on the decal/clearbra and stay right on it, avoiding moving the PC against the edges.
But like I said, it's absolutely safe to use a soft pad and a non-abrasive on decals and clearbras. With some PC experience, you should also have no problem with the white pad and cleansers and even a light abrasive when necessary (more so on the clearbra, as it is not as soft as most decals).
The only time we've had any trouble with it was when we, in great haste, applied a DP logo decal to a freshly waxed car. Then we tried to wax over the decal. For one, the decal had extremely fine detail and thus had some pieces that were literally 1/4" wide to a point (imagine the tail of the swoopy line in our logo). Secondly, the decal was barely stuck to the paint because of the wax that was already on the paint. So, the little edge of the point came up a little (but actually stuck back down again). Duh! We were in a huge hurry to prep the Lotus for a show at the last minute and weren't using our heads! So, I guess I'm saying that there are extremely exceptions, but they really are extreme exceptions.
We use the PC all the time on normal decals and clearbras!
Again, of course you don't want to add any pressure to the PC while applying Epic anyway... just as a reminder.
Good question though! Better safe to ask than to be sorry.
You guys DO understand that Nick and Heather own DP right???? LOL.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chili Red & Pepper White
Thanks, All.
Heather, whatever DP is paying you, it's not enough. You are a detailing GENIUS !
__________________ 5548 E. La Palma Ave., Anaheim, CA 92807 866 707 9292
Looking for Prima?? Buy Prima at ShowCarSupplies.com
11% off everyday discount code: MINI11NAM 2010 Midnight Black MCCSa
__________________ 5548 E. La Palma Ave., Anaheim, CA 92807 866 707 9292
Looking for Prima?? Buy Prima at ShowCarSupplies.com
11% off everyday discount code: MINI11NAM 2010 Midnight Black MCCSa
You guys are too funny. But hey, you're right! Starting right now I'm taking more pay than Nick. There, it's done! (I run all the finances for DP too) Actually, Nick is the true source of all the knowledge around here. He trained me!
The biggest problem with running your own business is that you continuously put the $$ back into the business instead of your own pocket! It's the classic curse of the business owner!
Thanks for the support though! I'll let Nick know he's being outvoted.
So, I guess I'm saying that there are extremely exceptions, but they really are extreme exceptions. 
