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Here we've got a really nice "flame orange" 1972 Bui(c)k Skylark. I didn't even know Bui(c)k had a "hot rod", shows how much I know about Bui(c)ks. I was only 2 years old and not even in the country when this thing was tearing up the track. My memory of a Bui(c)k is a huge brown station wagon that we all used to pile into as kids....
This car has been painted a few times, it's got a modern clearcoat. During my inspection the pinstripe on the fiberglass hood, and what appears to be handpainted lettering where areas to be careful of. I took some measurements with my electronic thickness gauge, and found the paint varied quite a bit from 5Mil to 10 Mil. The hood wasn't measurable because of it's non ferrous nature.
The owner, Scott of Central Coast Coopers, also has a very nice custom painted MINI Cooper S as you can see.
Looks like someone was using a buffer on the paint--it wasn't the owner for sure. OOOh, he's got a really nice BMW motorcycle too--notice the red/black theme on all his vehicles??? Well the Bui(c)k's color is original, so he didn't want to make it red. LOL.
I laughed when I saw this. It sure didn't look beautiful to me, See Ya Mother!
So I got my buckets ready. I've got one soap bucket with a Dirt Guard system and two rinse buckets with Grit Guards. Why the difference? No reason, other than I'm testing out the Dirt Guard to see how effective it is. With a car as large as this Skylark, I needed both buckets to properly rinse my mitt as I worked.
For final rinsing, I used my water deionizer, the CR Spotless system.
All rinsed off and ready for drying.
Meanwhile, my MINI was on a lift and getting new lowering springs installed as well as a few other areas being fixed.
Back to the Skylark. Under my lights you can see some light swirls in the paint.
Using my thickness gauge, I'm checking a small area here. That's 8.3Mil.
Here's I've polished the paint very and removed the swirls to the right. I also was going to clay the paint, but forgot to before the test spot. But M80 did it's magic as a paint cleaner and the polished side was as smooth as if I had clayed it. Rubbing my hand across the paint, you could hear the scratchy sound on the left, and silence as you crossed the test spot line. I still clayed the paint anyways using Meguiar's Professional Blue Clay (Mild).
Pulled back you can see see the difference in the test spot.
The front of the car was in much worse shape as you can see here.
Masked off in preparation for the test spot.
Big difference already!
Tape and towel removed. Only rotary work here--W8006 and M80 followed by W9006 and M82.
Quite a noticeable improvment.
Notice the blue tape running down the center. This was to protect the high point from accidentally burning the paint in case my pad got too close.
My lighting rig is clearly visible here.
All polished out now! What an improvement!
I polished the rims by hand with NXT All Metal Polysh and dressed the tires with Hyperdressing
Polish was M80 with rotary and W8006 pad followed by M80 with PC then Epic as LSP by PC with W9006 pad, removed by PC with W7006 pad and MF bonnet.
For the black paint I did M80 with Rotary and W8006 pad, M82 with Rotary and W9006 pad, M80 with PC and W8006 pad, M66 with PC and W8006, Epic with PC and W9006 and removal with PC with W7006 and mf bonnet.
I spent about 10 hours on this car. It was a lot of fun though hard work. I cleaned the glass with Prima Clarity. Oh by the way, this car IS for sale.
[edited by author: I goofed and forgot the C in Buick in the article, but didn't want any posts that pointed this out to be confusing, so I added parenthesis, LOL]
__________________ 5548 E. La Palma Ave., Anaheim, CA 92807 866 707 9292
Looking for Prima?? Buy Prima at ShowCarSupplies.com
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Last edited by OctaneGuy; 01-17-2007 at 10:58 PM.
Reason: Added (c)...
is it just me or when you see octaneguy's posts, you start skipping
all the pictures and scroll all the way down first (finished product),
and then go up?
Haha shall I start posting in reverse??? LOL. I try to keep some kind of suspense by forcing you to wait until the end to get the "cherry".
Richard
Quote:
Originally Posted by kenchan
is it just me or when you see octaneguy's posts, you start skipping
all the pictures and scroll all the way down first (finished product),
and then go up?
__________________ 5548 E. La Palma Ave., Anaheim, CA 92807 866 707 9292
Looking for Prima?? Buy Prima at ShowCarSupplies.com
11% off everyday discount code: MINI11NAM 2010 Midnight Black MCCSa
As always, Richard did an amazing job of "rescuing" the finish on another of my poor neglected fleet! what he does for paint is stunning, and I don't know anyone who works harder at as much perfection as can be had in his craft. The downside, for me at this point, is I don't even want to wash my stuff-no matter how much time I spend on it, it won't look like it does after it gets the "Octaneguy treatment"! Anyone who is within his reach that wants thier vehicle to look as good as it can be made to look, Richards attention is well worth what he charges!!
great work Richard! I don't know how you have the stamina for a 10 hour detail. this car must of used a gallon of Epic!
a question, perhaps stupid, but i'll ask anyway — when you buff out those kinds of swirls with a rotary are the swirls gone for good, or do they just get covered/filled by the polish?
my MINI is still in very good shape, but I know eventually I'll probably need a rotary.
__________________
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When I get the cash, I will fly you to NY one day and have you do my car It is on my list of when you got cash in 1-2 years to do.
That would be a fun car to do. Mini's are so new and picky. that car is just a steel beast. You cant dent that, no plastic/rubber trim to worry about, just buzz away. Jeez. what sick car. I am thinking about prima now definitely so. M80, pc, your video and then prima line.
Great results OG - as usual.
When taping (which I hate to do and may never do again) like you did to protect the high spot from burn, don't you end up with a swirl streak? Do you go back by hand afterward or what? I've struggled with this for a while - taping protects areas you wish to protect, but leaves the paint in current state underneath. How do you get around this?
Oh did I mention great job! Thanks for your efforts in posting these.
I didn't even know Buik had a "hot rod", shows how much I know about Buiks.
I can tell, after all, Buick has a "c" in it. But, you are more than forgiven seeing that you did such an incredible job on the car! Simply amazing as usual, but even moreso that you are dealing with a 35 year old car rather than a 35 month old.
__________________
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MMC #28|Motoring ID RAGE666
I love M66--a one step cleaner wax. Its like blending the cleaning/polishing properties of M80 with a polymer wax---so after you finish polishing, you just let it dry, then wipe and you're done. Theoretically anyways. I like to use it on black finishes that are scratch sensitive for it's filling properties. I don't like to use it as the LSP unless it's a really huge white suburban or something, lol. I always follow it with my preferred synthetic which is Prima Epic.
M66 is one of those products that has it's place and works great, but it's not for all finishes.
Quote:
Originally Posted by S Curvz
Richard looks great. One question, you said you use M66 with the PC, why? Isnt m66 a quick detailer? What trick of the trade is this? Please share!
I was most concerned about the high point when using the rotary buffer. Once I had finished that step and moved onto the PC, I removed the tape, and very carefully with light pressure worked on the high point with the PC. Had this been a single stage finish which would be even softer, I would have had to work on them by hand using a product like ScratchX.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MiniMaybee
Great results OG - as usual.
When taping (which I hate to do and may never do again) like you did to protect the high spot from burn, don't you end up with a swirl streak? Do you go back by hand afterward or what? I've struggled with this for a while - taping protects areas you wish to protect, but leaves the paint in current state underneath. How do you get around this?
Oh did I mention great job! Thanks for your efforts in posting these.
OOOOOOOH DOh!!!!!!!!!! I thought the spelling looked funny.
Thanks!!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Greatbear
I can tell, after all, Buick has a "c" in it. But, you are more than forgiven seeing that you did such an incredible job on the car! Simply amazing as usual, but even moreso that you are dealing with a 35 year old car rather than a 35 month old.
__________________ 5548 E. La Palma Ave., Anaheim, CA 92807 866 707 9292
Looking for Prima?? Buy Prima at ShowCarSupplies.com
11% off everyday discount code: MINI11NAM 2010 Midnight Black MCCSa
OOOOOOOH DOh!!!!!!!!!! I thought the spelling looked funny.
Thanks!!!
Richard... I can edit the thread title to add the C if you like (since only moderators can edit thread titles after they are posted)... but I'd leave your post for you to edit and correct - that's your responsibility!
Great job on the car though, it looks awesome. At one of the MOTDs I might just have to hire you.
Haha yes please, edit the title for me. I appreciate it. As for the Dragon--only if it doesn't rain this year. LOL
Richard
Quote:
Originally Posted by Edge
Richard... I can edit the thread title to add the C if you like (since only moderators can edit thread titles after they are posted)... but I'd leave your post for you to edit and correct - that's your responsibility!
Great job on the car though, it looks awesome. At one of the MOTDs I might just have to hire you.
__________________ 5548 E. La Palma Ave., Anaheim, CA 92807 866 707 9292
Looking for Prima?? Buy Prima at ShowCarSupplies.com
11% off everyday discount code: MINI11NAM 2010 Midnight Black MCCSa
octaneguy- i noticed that you went from the Prima polishes to your Meg
M-series polishes. is there a particular reason why that is or is it just
because you have more long term experience with the M-series and faster
to work with (like you know wat's what like the back of your hands)?
I tried out Cut, Swirl, Finish, and Swirl is really the multipurpose one that works like M80, but for myself, I'm not particularly thrilled with the product. As I've mentioned before, it could be simply because I'm trying to use the Prima products with the Meguiar's pads which is like trying to get good results from two different systems, not originally designed for each other.
So for now, my preference is to continue using Meguiar's polishes with the Meguiar's pads, and finish with Prima Epic.
Eventually when I get the LC pads, I may find that I like the Prima polishes better as well, but I will post my comparison on that later.
Richard
Quote:
Originally Posted by kenchan
octaneguy- i noticed that you went from the Prima polishes to your Meg
M-series polishes. is there a particular reason why that is or is it just
because you have more long term experience with the M-series and faster
to work with (like you know wat's what like the back of your hands)?
im sure time is money!!
__________________ 5548 E. La Palma Ave., Anaheim, CA 92807 866 707 9292
Looking for Prima?? Buy Prima at ShowCarSupplies.com
11% off everyday discount code: MINI11NAM 2010 Midnight Black MCCSa
amazing amazing work on that car....now we need to see a picture of you sitting in it with a pack of Marlboros rolled up in the sleeve of your white T-shirt.....but first:
1) Richard, how do you decide when the PC/M80 is not enough and you turn to your rotary instead?
2) transferring your above work to the MINI line, on a chili red MINI, would you go M80 to M66 to Epic, or M80 to Amigo to Epic?
I tried out Cut, Swirl, Finish, and Swirl is really the multipurpose one that works like M80, but for myself, I'm not particularly thrilled with the product. As I've mentioned before, it could be simply because I'm trying to use the Prima products with the Meguiar's pads which is like trying to get good results from two different systems, not originally designed for each other.
So for now, my preference is to continue using Meguiar's polishes with the Meguiar's pads, and finish with Prima Epic.
Eventually when I get the LC pads, I may find that I like the Prima polishes better as well, but I will post my comparison on that later.
1.) Well it really comes from experience. Most of the time I can look at a car and determine whether it should be restored with the right tool by looking at the age, paint type, number of defects, how complex the panels are. I always want to use the least aggressive tool to start with to get the job done right. Sometimes, I may start with the PC to see how things work, and realize when doing my test spot that it's not working well enough, and I need a rotary. Sometimes I find I can do an entire car with a PC, and only use the rotary on certain spots that need more aggressive work. If sanding is involved, a rotary is my preferred tool for removing sanding marks. Some paint types like Corvettes are notoriously hard, and only a rotary can be used to restore them.
2.)I wouldn't use M66 on a CR MINI. Depending on the condition I would use either M80 or M83, then go directly to Epic. I might try a pass of Amigo after M80/M83 on a small spot and see if it looks noticeably better or not. The only time I might use M66 on a MINI might be because I either don't have time to do a full polish/wax job which would never be the case on a customers MINI--but maybe my own. Or if I'm working on black paint and once again, can't fully polish it out for whatever reason.
Richard
Quote:
Originally Posted by umberto
amazing amazing work on that car....now we need to see a picture of you sitting in it with a pack of Marlboros rolled up in the sleeve of your white T-shirt.....but first:
1) Richard, how do you decide when the PC/M80 is not enough and you turn to your rotary instead?
2) transferring your above work to the MINI line, on a chili red MINI, would you go M80 to M66 to Epic, or M80 to Amigo to Epic?
__________________ 5548 E. La Palma Ave., Anaheim, CA 92807 866 707 9292
Looking for Prima?? Buy Prima at ShowCarSupplies.com
11% off everyday discount code: MINI11NAM 2010 Midnight Black MCCSa