You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!
I know this has been discussed once before and both Brad and Agranger felt Carnauba did not layer because the organic solvents would dissolve the first layer
Thats not what Autopia is saying. Ppl talk about Many layers
Read hereThis water based paste wax operates on a spit-shine concept, delivering an unbeatable shine and unique ability to build an increasingly heavy wax load with repeated applications.
What is spit-shine and will the water based waxes layer?
Keep in mind that Carnauba is only an ingredient in vehicle waxes. 100% Caranuba is a resin from a tree and in its natural form it's as hard as a rock - so no wax is 'pure carnauba' - but could contain pure carnauba.
Carnauba waxes contain softeners and carriers to permit the product to spread and 'cure'. I can't speak for all Carnauba waxes, but there's one that layers *for sure* and the maker actually recommends layering it. I have used it for close to 30 years. The results are consistent and predictable, and the depth and clarity are excellent and improve with each layer. It's best to let this wax set for at least 20 minutes (do the finger smudge test), then after buffing it off, let it cure for a week. Then add another layer (washing in-between if needed). If you'd want to cure this wax more quickly, you can mist the surface with cold water and the wax will set, so that another layer can be added.
One Grand Blitz Wax. I use this on my antique cars - including my 1935 Packard that still has the original factory black paint - and it looks fabulous.
I believe waxing the car 2 or more times just insures coverage.
think of this:
When you wax a car, the finish is slick and nothing sticks to it. Why would another layer of wax form over that? I have thought that the solvents that carry the wax to your finish could possibly aid in softening the under wax, thus allowing a thicker coat of wax or layering. While this sounds possible through spit shining, never letting the first layers dry fully, I dont know of a way to verify. (Digital Micrometer?)
I believe waxing the car 2 or more times just insures coverage.
think of this:
When you wax a car, the finish is slick and nothing sticks to it. Why would another layer of wax form over that? I have thought that the solvents that carry the wax to your finish could possibly aid in softening the under wax, thus allowing a thicker coat of wax or layering. While this sounds possible through spit shining, never letting the first layers dry fully, I dont know of a way to verify. (Digital Micrometer?)
it feels slick to you but to the SprayOn wax it still sees gaps in
the molecules and sticks itself in there, i suppose.
I'll volunteer my car for the big wax-off. Anyone eager to put three coats on it?
Sheesh, I feel that I've made great progress because I actually took time to clay and apply a quick single coat of ICE on mine before winter set in... I do suffer a bit from detailers envy, but actually lack the patience and time to prep my car the way you guys do.
__________________
2006 Bayerische Racing Green/Black JCW MCs,
1969 Chili Red/Old English White Morris Mini Pick-up MMC #514
I'll volunteer my car for the big wax-off. Anyone eager to put three coats on it?
Sheesh, I feel that I've made great progress because I actually took time to clay and apply a quick single coat of ICE on mine before winter set in... I do suffer a bit from detailers envy, but actually lack the patience and time to prep my car the way you guys do.
um i don't think chows doesn't do any detailing... its his wife that's
doing it all while chows just watches TV in the garage.
Griots actually suggests putting on wax, letting it sit overnight unbuffed, then adding a new layer before buffing. It's supposed to give increased protection. I tried it- more work- great shine. Don't know about the ptotection---
Griots actually suggests putting on wax, letting it sit overnight unbuffed, then adding a new layer before buffing. It's supposed to give increased protection. I tried it- more work- great shine. Don't know about the ptotection---
really... huh, i don't remember seeing that in their DVD!!!
i let BofS cure for about 1hr and it's got a hard shell kind of finish. i waxed
my MCS last july and it's still nice and smooth.
Its not. It is in the handbooks they send out all the time. I thought you would have read those. I now understand, you get it just for the pictures.
They say putting it on that way adds to the shine. I put two coats on, it looks the same to me and is less work.
how did you know i just look through those handbooks just for the
pictures? i have that detailer's handbook that i got with
the DVD (part of my Griot's master starter kit they custom put together
for me) but honestly, i flipped through it and used it as a fan more than
actually reading it. the DVD i watched several times though.
Remember that most manufacturers will recommend layering their product weather it makes a difference or not. The more you use, the more money they make.
It's very easy to answer the question yourself with your own product. Just do half of a section with multiple layers and half with one layer. See if there's a difference.
I'm sure each product will differ as they are all mixtures of varying products.
It's very easy to answer the question yourself with your own product. Just do half of a section with multiple layers and half with one layer. See if there's a difference.
I'm sure each product will differ as they are all mixtures of varying products.
Griot's BoS recomends layering in 12 hour shift for best appearance. I think this really fills in gaps. Griots told me that my paste coats in such a thick manner and is so tough that you never need more than one coat. I agree with that. Now... can it be layered? AHhhh... here's my reason for saying yes !
Reason: I use an mf towel to remove my wax and a sponge to apply it. All by hand. I rub just enough to remove what is needed. The rest that is kinda glued on in streaks I wait until the next day. I then quick detail it to get that extra gunk off.
When I miss those spots and I wax it again a few weeks later, I see a shell OVER that wax haze. That is proof that my paste goop heavy wax can layer. Yes, I miss areas and never see them for weeks. I work in the afternoon or go out at night and do not drive always, only use my car 3-4 max days a week. I think I party too much and cant notice the chalk. Anyways, back to the raeson......
I do not think with a PC it is possible at all to layer. I apply it so wimpy-like that I think it can layer. One vote against the pc I probably leave a miniscule heavier layer on my cars than most of you do. I know this makes no sense to people like octaneguy, but I think it does this.
Spraywax will burn the **** out of your eyes. When it mists even lightly near me, and it hits my eyes, it stings like nothing else does in the griot's arsenal or even Plexus which is pretty heinous stuff. It must have some sort of bonding agent in it to adhere to whatever you put it on. It has helped me extend my waxes about 2x the normal wear and tear of them.
one grand supposedly layers. I duno about that. I know it looks better and better. I also hear it is very un-cement like. It could be p21s that bamat is using and needs to be layered to get a full coat?
The whole wax thing is strange to me. How can I rub the top of it off, yet the bottom stays? What about the middle of the wax? Why does the top shiney part of the wax that remains get shiney and the top get white and icky? Why is it stuck on like iron now yet the top fluffed off with ease?
I have a great idea, chows & Kenchan,
has a Platinum 
