You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!
I'm new to the forum, and was recommended here by a fellow Mini owner. I just ordered (from the Autopia site) Sonus Ultra Fine Clay with the Glyde clay lubricant, Klasse AIO, Klasse High Gloss Sealant, and Sonus Spritz. I had my car treated from the dealer when I purchased it in Dec. '03 with the Simonize (never have to ever wax again *#&*&@# )treatment (what a rip-off), and after close to 3 years (my Mini is an '04) I've decided to wake up and detail the car myself. If anyone out there can advise me on any particulars that the Autopia site did'nt already, I'd appreciate it. Any helpful hints or comments about the products I've ordered would be welcome. Thanks in advance, Rick.
You made a good choice of products. Klasse products are acrylic based sealants that last longer than almost any other products on the market. Just in case you didn't know, Klasse AIO is and Acrylic Sealant with a chemical based polish. The Klasse SG is a pure Acrylic Sealant. The Klasse products work very well but they can be a little difficult to work with. They tend to "bite" in to paint and become a little difficult to remove.
When you begin applying the the Klasse AIO, slightly damped your applicator. Apply a small amount of product to the applicator and begin working it into the paint with medium to light pressure. This product does not need time to set up before removal. Do one panel at a time and once it has hazed begin removing with a quality microfiber. Use the Klasse products sparingly. If you are leaving a haze you have enough product on the applicator. Any additional product is just being wasted and creating more work.
To get the optimal benefit of the Klasse SG you can wait several hours before covering the Klasse AIO. It is not necessary but acrylics seem to layer slightly better once they have cured. Unfortunately the SG can be a little more difficult to remove than the AIO. If you are experiencing problems, lightly mist the area with a body shine product or distilled water and use a second microfiber to remove the excess. This technique makes removal much easier.
SG can be layered several times for additional durability. Just remember not to use the AIO after this point. The chemical polish will strip off the previous applications. The AIO should only be used again when you want to start over.
If you get ambitious and want to add a little extra pop. You can even layer a carnauba over the SG. This will not extend the durability as carnaubas don't hold up very well to heat or contaminants but the extra depth of finish is sometimes worth it.
Good luck and let me know if you run into any problems.
Thanks, Brett. One question: When applying the AIO and Sealant do I use circular motions or is it better to use straight lineal (if that's the right word) strokes. Anyway, thanks for your imput. Rick
Probably doesn't matter...but I think linear strokes would ensure full coverage and a smooth, even, and thin application. That does matter as it makes removal much easier.
I agree. For most product application and removal I prefer linear motions. If light marring does occur the marks are much less noticeable when they follow the horizontal lines of the car.
Is 303 similar to Armorall for the tires? Thanks for the advice about the wiper arms. Anything in particular I should use on the seats? They're not real leather; I forget what they are made of- some sort of vinyl. Again thanks for the advice
Rick
303 is a much better and safer product for rubber and vinyl. Armorall used solvents like formaldehyde. I don't know if they have changed their formula but solvents can leech out the protective paraffin and petroleum waxes tire manufacturers add to protect against ozone damage. Use of strong solvents can speed up rubber degradation and cause premature dry rot.
If your seats are vinyl (usually impregnated to simulate leather) then any quality rubber/vinyl dressing that is water based and contains a UV blocker will work just fine.
303 can be used on the tires. I use 303 on my winter tires. It's great on the plastic trim, dash, etc. and it doesn't have static cling (armorall also attracts dust).
__________________
"Intellectually, I knew what to expect. Emotively, HOLY SH**!!!!!!!"
- A friend, after driving my stock (at the time) 05 MCS ;)
Linear motions are better to minimize the sighlines of introduced micro-scratces. On horizontal surfaces, go front to back. On vertical surfaces, go up and down.
Any suggestions for good products to use on vinyl seats and interiors?
303 Aerospace protectant will work well. It has a bit too much shine for my liking on the interior. You can buff it down with a slightly damp rag to knock down the shine. If you want to start with a product with less shine off the bat than my favorites would be Vinylex (made by lexol) and Poorboy's Natural Look Dressing. Both have lower levels of gloss and more importantly UV blockers.
