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I was doing my weekly wash when I noticed these little white specs on the front end of my car... It looks like paint but I dont think it is, it comes off if I scrub it 100 times. Ive also resorted to gently scratching it off with my finger nails.
If I have to, I guess I'll have to scratch/rub off every spec but are they are any products out there that can remove this sort of stuff without damaging the paint, chrome, or glass?
Wait wait... a claybar is sort of like suggesting he take a .44 magnum squirrel hunting... use it wrong and it can make things WORSE. That may be an option down the road (and annual or semi-annual clay barring seems to be a good idea in general), but I'd think something a bit less drastic might be tried first I think, since we don't know what the deposits are.
Have you tried a mild polish like the McGuire's first? It used to be called Mirror Glaze but might have a different name now- it comes in VERY fine grades and has a very subtle grit in it, and that might give you a bit of grip on whatever it is. Sinceyou seemed to suggest above that it was on your glass and trim as well, I'd think it is mineral stains or something from your water. Are you washing in the sun, where the water is insta-dried on the paint?
If you try Macguire's, test it on a stain somewhere not noticable (or at least LESS noticable) first and save the bonnet and such until you're sure it will help. The Mirror Glaze is great stuff though- we used to use it at a motorcycle dealership to buff out scratches in TRANSPARENT plastic, that's how fine the "grit" in it is.
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~Matt Cook | Dublin, Ohio | '92 Classic Mini Sprite: "Fiona" + Purple Haze 2005 MCS Cabrio: "Dawn". See old MODs from "Nano" HERE - post #166 - many with How-to links!
Wait wait... a claybar is sort of like suggesting he take a .44 magnum squirrel hunting... use it wrong and it can make things WORSE. That may be an option down the road (and annual or semi-annual clay barring seems to be a good idea in general), but I'd think something a bit less drastic might be tried first I think, since we don't know what the deposits are.
Have you tried a mild polish like the McGuire's first? It used to be called Mirror Glaze but might have a different name now- it comes in VERY fine grades and has a very subtle grit in it, and that might give you a bit of grip on whatever it is. Sinceyou seemed to suggest above that it was on your glass and trim as well, I'd think it is mineral stains or something from your water. Are you washing in the sun, where the water is insta-dried on the paint?
If you try Macguire's, test it on a stain somewhere not noticable (or at least LESS noticable) first and save the bonnet and such until you're sure it will help. The Mirror Glaze is great stuff though- we used to use it at a motorcycle dealership to buff out scratches in TRANSPARENT plastic, that's how fine the "grit" in it is.
I disagree, I think anything with grit in it could be more aggressive than a claybar. I use the claybar to spot clean my cars all the time and have for the last 6 years. Very useful on a PW since it has a tendency to stain.
Annette
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Gone but never forgotten, RIP El Kabong, '06 PW/B MCS 10/17/05 - 1/28/11
Clay IS abrasive... according to Autopia, anyway. It's all a matter of how you use it...
"Detailing clay is an abrasive system. If not used properly, detailing clay can cause light surface marring. There’s no need to fear if you use proper lubrication.
An easy way to think about detailing clay is simply this: detailing clay is a “selective polish” with a built-in applicator. Its job is to “polish away” dirt and surface contamination from paint, glass, chrome and plastic without polishing the surface itself. A pretty simple concept, isn’t it? Detailing clay technology has been around for many years, with roots dating back to the 1930’s. That’s when the idea of combining polybutene (a soft plastic resin material) with abrasives was first put to paper."
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~Matt Cook | Dublin, Ohio | '92 Classic Mini Sprite: "Fiona" + Purple Haze 2005 MCS Cabrio: "Dawn". See old MODs from "Nano" HERE - post #166 - many with How-to links!
I'm no detailing expert & don't play one on TV, but to my mind a clay bar isn't abrasive. It appears to catch onto surface contaminates & pull them off the surface. It does not abrade them away. My suggestion is to use a clay bar first. Then if needed go with a more aggressive approach. Follow the directions that come with the clay & use lots of spray lube.
Clay is only abrasive if used (improperly) without a lubricant.
Scrubbing is much more abrasive than claybaring.
I would recommend a fingernail too but it looks like you've already tried that one.
Trying not to be disrespectful here, but if you're going to post advice, you SHOULD try to base it upon experience rather than quoting something you read on the internet. Just because you found on Autopia that clay is abrasive, doesn't mean it's more abrasive than a cleaner wax!
Definitely the original poster should try claybar to remove the specs which sounds like overspray. Using a fingernail is likely to cause a lot more damage. He will need to rewax the clayed portion since claybar will remove all wax protection down to the clearcoat.
A Clearner/Wax would be the next step after claybar.
Richard
Quote:
Originally Posted by ImagoX
Wait wait... a claybar is sort of like suggesting he take a .44 magnum squirrel hunting... use it wrong and it can make things WORSE.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ImagoX
Clay IS abrasive... according to Autopia, anyway. It's all a matter of how you use it...
__________________ 5548 E. La Palma Ave., Anaheim, CA 92807 866 707 9292
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The only way clay becomes abrasive is if you drop it on the ground first then rub on your car. Or the microfiber you are using to wipe is dirty.
You can rub and rub and rub on your paint with clay and it is impossible to harm the finish. Granted, you need lubrication and the surface should be cool to the touch. I recommend Meguiar's QuikClay system. Gives you a bottle of Quik Detailer (great stuff btw) and a block of clay (break it in half when you clay the MINI). Spritz some QD on, rub the bar over the finish until it glides, wipe. Repeat.
And I forgot to add, I use the tip of my fingernail to break the integrity of stubborn grit. It makes the clay work easier. By no means, should you scratch or scrub with your fingernail, but a little scuff on the top of a spec of dirt will help take it off.
This is true for the most part. Although clay does come in both Mild and Aggressive forms--where the aggressive clay will mar the surface, but removes contaminants much quicker. Speed is chosen over safety/quality. This form of clay is used by body shops where they will be buffing the finish.
However remember than even the particles in the clay picked up from previous use can become potentials for scratching your paint, even if you didn't drop it on the ground.
Richard
Quote:
Originally Posted by SHRTSTAK
The only way clay becomes abrasive is if you drop it on the ground first then rub on your car. Or the microfiber you are using to wipe is dirty.
You can rub and rub and rub on your paint with clay and it is impossible to harm the finish. Granted, you need lubrication and the surface should be cool to the touch. I recommend Meguiar's QuikClay system. Gives you a bottle of Quik Detailer (great stuff btw) and a block of clay (break it in half when you clay the MINI). Spritz some QD on, rub the bar over the finish until it glides, wipe. Repeat.
Clay is awesome.
__________________ 5548 E. La Palma Ave., Anaheim, CA 92807 866 707 9292
Looking for Prima?? Buy Prima at ShowCarSupplies.com
11% off everyday discount code: MINI11NAM 2010 Midnight Black MCCSa
