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A car in reverse hit my door with the corner of his bumper.
I have several large and deep scratches.
Since I have the touch-paint kit I have touched the scratches temporarily.
It was not a perfect job and was not in my mind since I was thinking in a paint shop that can remove my work and the do a better job (refill, paint, clearcoat, polish, etc).
But all paint shop are offering paint all the door as the only solution. All say that it is "imposible" to fix deep scratches.
I want to fix this before doing a detailing work on the car.
Anyone agree with this or have any guide to share?
I believe I can remove the paint added and redo the work in a better maner.
Or I'm viewing YouTube too much and I must stop.
A better touch up job might work for you, agree a respray is much better if done right. Layered on with a tiny brush or toothpick gives a better result, allowing paint to fill the void instead of overlapping the edges. Takes a steady hand. Just did a few on my car and it's fine for me.
There is nothing that doesn't make me believe that repaint is not the best solution. Or rather, the perfect solution. Common sense.
I'm just looking for alternatives to repainting ($300 and 2 days on the paint shop)
I'm on the way to:
1) Clean the scratches and remove the old touch-paint job.
2) Do the work as Minnie.the.MoocherMinnie advises.
3) sanded with 2000+ water sandpaper (here is my fear, I have already sanded and it scares me to see the paint totally without shine).
4) Polishing to get shine back.
I know it takes patience and dedication and I am willing to spend days if needed (it is not a 5 minutes job).
I just need to know that the work I'm going to do will not worsen the situation based on your experience.
And I also need advices like the Minnie.the.MoocherMinnie.
1. if the scratch went down to metal the primer is gone and rust has begun. to fix this properly the rust must be removed or neutralized and the surface resealed/primed
2. The finish is a base/clear system. base is the color component. Alone, base does not shine and is not strong. Base should be thin which means the scratch probably needs filling to get back to a level playing field altho part of this can be done with primer and paint ....
3. After the color comes the clear .... clear is where the 'shine' is.
When you apply typical t/up with a brush you get blobs like you see now. I've successfully used the LANGKA system to deal with blobs but it is best on chips ... scratches are a more difficult one to tackle. Dr Colorchip is another option but it too is not as easy as they suggest when dealing with a scratch.
1. if the scratch went down to metal the primer is gone and rust has begun. to fix this properly the rust must be removed or neutralized and the surface resealed/primed
2. The finish is a base/clear system. base is the color component. Alone, base does not shine and is not strong. Base should be thin which means the scratch probably needs filling to get back to a level playing field altho part of this can be done with primer and paint ....
3. After the color comes the clear .... clear is where the 'shine' is.
When you apply typical t/up with a brush you get blobs like you see now. I've successfully used the LANGKA system to deal with blobs but it is best on chips ... scratches are a more difficult one to tackle. Dr Colorchip is another option but it too is not as easy as they suggest when dealing with a scratch.
Thank you for your advice.
I have the original MINI touch paint and a pen with the color code made for me (red chili 851). I don't remember if it is Glasurit or Basf paint but it is the color code needed and friendly consistency.
I have primer and a clear coat spray (both for painting cars)
It would be a good idea a "soft" layer of clear coat over the area after finishing the job (if looks perfect)?
clear is typically applied heavy so it can flow and smooth out.
a dust coat of clear is usually a bad idea .... this is why doing a 'blend' on a panel takes skill and it is easier to spray an entire panel (like a door)
one painter's trick when doing a clear blend is to use twice as much reducer in the clear so it flows more, and easier to cause runs ... and you get a much thinner coat ... BUT you can't adjust the mix in a rattle can .... ya need to be mixing your own and using a gun .....
and then there's the issue of surface prep required to get the new clear to stick ..... read the directions FULLY .....
if you wet sand, good luck getting the shine back with hand polishing. It is possible but 'good luck'. You really need a power buffer . . .
this is a job for someone with experience. The first several times I tried this (b4 taking classes) I just made the situation worse ..... which how I ended up taking classes! And then repainting the entire door!!!!
clear is typically applied heavy so it can flow and smooth out.
a dust coat of clear is usually a bad idea .... this is why doing a 'blend' on a panel takes skill and it is easier to spray an entire panel (like a door)
one painter's trick when doing a clear blend is to use twice as much reducer in the clear so it flows more, and easier to cause runs ... and you get a much thinner coat ... BUT you can't adjust the mix in a rattle can .... ya need to be mixing your own and using a gun .....
and then there's the issue of surface prep required to get the new clear to stick ..... read the directions FULLY .....
if you wet sand, good luck getting the shine back with hand polishing. It is possible but 'good luck'. You really need a power buffer . . .
this is a job for someone with experience. The first several times I tried this (b4 taking classes) I just made the situation worse ..... which how I ended up taking classes! And then repainting the entire door!!!!
I have a power buffer and all the products for a car detailing job
I f the power buffer is the trick, I believe I can do it.
Or I can do all the work and let the final polish for a detailing shop
Why he is not using touch-up paint nor wizard putty nor paint leveler and just sanding and polishing is the perfect fix?
It seems the scratch is deeper (primer base reached?)
Then, using the touch-up paint before sanding and a power buffer, the result should be better.
I'm right?
Go after the guy's insurance, who scratched your car. Your own comprehensive insurance would probably take care of it, if you don't know who scratched your car,
Messing around with touch up paint isn't going to work, you have to spray the whole panel.
Looks great, what Clear Coat did you use. I have the infamous Mini Clear Coat pealing on my rear deck, need to sand and respray, what did you use?
Thanks to all for the support and to Minnie.the.Moocher and Capt_bj for the comments before the work.
gumbedamit: I was with some areas with clear coat pealing :/
My fix was:
- Wet sanding 2000 (to delete the clear coat edges but avoiding to sand the paint without the clear coat)
- wet sanding 4000 al the area (normal on the clear coat, very soft on the area without clear coat)
- Clean with thinner
- Compund then polish
- 3 thin layers of automotive clear coat (spray)
- Let dry no less than 24 hs (I did use a infrared light)
- wet sanding 4000 the new clear coat and the original clear coat
- Compound > Polish > Wax
Clear coat pealing is gone and not visible at all.
Any compound is OK for this work! (I did use a generic brand) but I suggest a good polish and wax (nu finish, meguiars, turtle, etc)
11-28-2016, 04:59 AM
