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avoiding the dreaded white residue in the first place
When I wax....Meguiars NXT....I first go along all the borders of the textured vinl applying the wax with my hand in a thin cotton sock...this way I have much more control and dexterity over where the wax is going , or not going. Then I finish the rest of the car with a pad or applicator.
Has anyone else tried this method?
When I wax....Meguiars NXT....I first go along all the borders of the textured vinl applying the wax with my hand in a thin cotton sock...this way I have much more control and dexterity over where the wax is going , or not going. Then I finish the rest of the car with a pad or applicator.
Has anyone else tried this method?
No, never. Cotton fibers are not nearly as soft as microfiber and get matted down quickly when saturated with wax and it's rare to find socks that are 100% cotton. Most are a mix of polyester fibers which are deadly on paint.
I understand what you are trying to do about getting close to the trim. And that's great in theory. Just be cautious because socks, T-shirts, diapers, rags and such can scratch even though they "feel" soft.
__________________ Bloomquist Garage! '04 PW Mini Cooper S....Gone but still here in spirit! My Other Rides.
The last time I was in Home Depot they had a couple types. Plastic, soft and flexible. They were in the painting accessories aisle hanging along with things like tape, trim knives, etc. Lowes and other hardware stores would have something similar.
__________________ Bloomquist Garage! '04 PW Mini Cooper S....Gone but still here in spirit! My Other Rides.
I have yet to try Klasse' products - but based on their composition, I'd say No, they do not create the while residue. In my experience, typicall carnauba-based waxes that use silicone-resins for quick drying leave the white residue.
Examples: Anything Turtle Wax, or other cheap waxes you find at Wal-Mart (grrrr!)
Zymol's Cleaner Wax, which works really well for cleaning paint, as long as you keep it away from trim like the plauge!
Stuff that defintely won't leave white residue:
Zaino, Zymol's higher end waxes, P21S & S100, Stoner products....
Yep, last week used peanut butter (not chunky!!) and a toothbrush to take of the Meguiar's NXT wax that was on the molding. Worked like a charm. Who'da thunk it?!?!
I've finally found a product which consistently, and easily, removes wax - it's Honda Spray Cleaner and Polish. I've been picking it up at motorcycle shops. btw, isopropyl alcohol also works but it takes a lot more effort.
Best way I've found is to spray the Honda stuff on and let it soften the wax for several seconds (it foams on -- no drips). Then use a microfiber cloth to get all of the gunk out of the plastic pores. You might have to do this a couple of times to get out really old, hardened, wax buildup. But it will clean up!
I should add to this great thread now that I've tried a few things:
Peanut Oil...hey, it works! Best option for cheap cost. But, the arches are left oily of course, and dirt sticks to oil. Then I'm scared to touch them with my wash mitt when washing the car in case the oil spreads to the paint. I started researching some other solutions.
Vinylex has a similar effect, makes them nice and glossy, but goes away in days. If you have it sitting around and no other option, it is OK.
303 Aerospace Protectant will clean it a little, keep them glossier, protect them, and seems to mark the wax harder to stick to them. It has so many other uses you should already have a bottle of 303, and if you don't want to buy another specific product, it works well.
Autoglym Bumper Care was made for exactly this, and works the best. I should have known when I saw so many recommendations. That being said it may only be for us nuts...a specific product, and the first time I went through a third of the bottle. It is thick and made to scrub the pourus plastic clean and adheres to it making a long lasting coating. Water actually beads up on the trim!
So those are my recommendation--pick whichever fits best to you.
I figured if Dawn is used to take wax off a car before Zaino, it might work on the plastic trim, so I put a little in a small plastic container, mixed it with a little water, and scrubbed with a toothbrush. I think it works pretty well and there's nothing left to clean up.
I've used peanut oil, 303 protectant, Mothers back to black, and now Meguiars trim detailer. Can't say much about the Meguiars yet, but so far peanut oil has worked best
...Stuff that defintely won't leave white residue:
Zaino, Zymol's higher end waxes, P21S & S100, Stoner products....
I waxed PeeWee last Thursday with P21S. It took about two hours including a cursary clayjob on the hood. It also included about 15 minutes on Sunday taking the white residue off the wheel wells. The bottom line is I love P21S but it definetely will leave your plastic white it you get wax on them regardless of what their literature says.
as someone kindly suggested to me, i used peanut oil (the chinese type) and it not only removed the wax but it also made my mcs even "hotter" than it was, lol...
next time i'll try the IPA.
dave
__________________ MINIs On Top 09 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MO0zC99H6bQ 2005 MCS LSD, DSC, CBC, SPORT, Harman Kardon system XM Radio lifetime subscriber 17" S-Heavies with 205/45 Yokohama Envigors in summer; 15" ASA Blizzak REVO 1s in winter, M7 Strut Tower Reinforcement plates, Moss Motors PS Fan shroud
This method has always worked good on all my vehicles, especially the MCSC. My favorite wax produc is "Liquid Glass" http://www.liquidglass.com/index.htm
