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Don't know how they got there, but there are scratches on a portion of my clear-coat. Appeared suspiciously after a camping trip, like a pine tree branch rubbed at it.
Anyway, I've seen some "scratch remover" potions at the auto parts store, labeled "safe for clear-coat". Anyone have any experience with this stuff?
Since the appearence of these scratches, I've put about 4 coats of wax on the car, but the scratches are still visible. Would a few more coats of wax start to make them disappear? The paint itself is not damaged.
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ROB SAUNDERS
2004 MCS Chili Red with Black/Premium/Sport/Cold Weather/17" Kumho SPT's with Konig Reason Graphite wheels/HK with Aux In and MFSW/Pantera Grey Leather Interior/Black Bonnet Stripes/M7 Extreme Scoop/Everything except Sat Nav, but added Garmin Nuvi 350.
Hi Rob! I've had great success with Meguiar's Scratch-X. It's available at most auto parts stores. Several scrapes I've had were completely removed using this product...........much to my relief.
Keep in mind that using scratch remover is actually polishing your clear coat thinner, levelling out the coat to the lowest point of the scratch. Be careful, and good luck.
That said, I haven't used Scratch X, but have heard good things of it. I like Meguairs Professional Fine-Cut for big scratches, and 3M Perfect-It SMR for smaller stuff.
You will likely have a little more difficulty getting a final polish on your Chili Red because the color shows even the lightest scratches and haze. It just means you will have to be more careful and may need to do this in a couple steps. 1. Remove the scratch with a relatively coarse abrasive and then bringing the shine back up with a finer abrasive.
I am not a huge fan of ScratchX because it is fairly coarse. It will remove scratches. Use a back and forth motion only. A good substitute for ScratchX would be 3M Finesse It or 1Z Ultra. These can also be used with a buffer if you progress with your detailing. I also like Meguiars Fine Cut. Just shake, shake, shake the bottle, before use.
For follow up, you will likely need a finer compound to bring the finish to a high luster and remove the haze more visible on dark colors and red. 3M Swirl Mark Remover is also one of my favorites. 1Z Paint Polish is also quite nice.
Remember when you are working by hand to use a pure foam applicator. This spreads the product more uniformly and does a much better job.
As you have discovered, wax is just a way to disquise the problem and it seldom works. Get some of the products suggested by the folks here, start slow, ask questions and go at it!
__________________ Bloomquist Garage! '04 PW Mini Cooper S....Gone but still here in spirit! My Other Rides.
Hard to say without seeing it. But assuming they are not too deep (if you can't "feel it" with your fingernail then it will likely come all the way out.) then a good detailer with a rotary buffer can take out an awful lot of scratches in an hour. I don't know what rates are in your area but I would hope you could get this done in the $50-75 range. Just a guess.
But it's possible to do by hand, just a bit slower. Don't be afraid to try it yourself. It's certainly within your realm if you want to spend the time. You don't need a garage, or fancy set up. Just a bit of extra time. The sad part is, scratches and swirls just keep coming. Might as well be ready to handle it!
Either way, good luck!!
__________________ Bloomquist Garage! '04 PW Mini Cooper S....Gone but still here in spirit! My Other Rides.
will a small (palm sized) random orbital buffer work with the finesse-it and SMR??
or should i just save my time and do it by hand with foam.
if i want to do a large section of a dark car ( hood, roof) should i use a rotary with the finesse-it then follow with a random orbital and SMR? or will the rotary introduce swirls that the random orbital can't get out. ie: use random orbital for both steps
and should those products be applied with a foam applicator or terry (using a machine)
will a small (palm sized) random orbital buffer work with the finesse-it and SMR??
or should i just save my time and do it by hand with foam.
if i want to do a large section of a dark car ( hood, roof) should i use a rotary with the finesse-it then follow with a random orbital and SMR? or will the rotary introduce swirls that the random orbital can't get out. ie: use random orbital for both steps
and should those products be applied with a foam applicator or terry (using a machine)
just curious
I have never used a palm sized RO so I am not sure how well they work but there is no reason it shouldn't work at least as well as by hand. It won't give you as nice or as consistant results as a 6" RO would.
Certainly using a rotary is the way to go IF you are very skilled at using one. I have been buffing on cars for over 20 years and if I need to fix some damage I grab the rotary first because it is faster. Much faster. And that's all I use. I don't need to use the RO at all. The rotary can achieve any level of finish and fix more damage than a RO and is a more capable tool overall BUT, you can do some serious damage really, really fast as well. It's a pro level tool.
If you don't have a buffer yet, get a RO. The Porter Cable 7424 is the best. Use only foam pads. Not terry covered. And at this stage stay away from wool pads all together. You can do some wonderful things with a random orbital. They can get out all but the worst scratches, buff anything, apply waxes, etc. It's a very safe tool to use for even a novice. They are a great time saver.
First off....you guys are freakin' brilliant! Very helpful stuff!!
Second.....about polishing and dealing w/ swirls. When polishing, you're microscopically removing clear-coat finish to level off a scratch, right? Is there a point where you can't polish any further? I'm thinking of scratches that have required a good bit of work to remove. Does one have to be very careful in an area that has been heavily polished in the past? Is there a risk of (shudders) going through the clear coat?? I mean, theoretically it may be possible, but practically?? Seems like some of you have been at this rather a long time...unlike me....and have seen it all.
Sure, you have to be concerned because you are removing material. But in reality, you are removing very little paint thickness at each session. And it all depends what you are doing. You are removing more material using a coarse abrasive and a rotary buffer vs a fine swirl remover and a random orbital buffer or even by hand.
Generally, you can remove most any scratch you can't "feel". If you then use proper techniques and tools and products you will not put those scratches back in!
__________________ Bloomquist Garage! '04 PW Mini Cooper S....Gone but still here in spirit! My Other Rides.
Thanks for all the great advice! I'm going to print this page out and follow it closely! My scratches are not too deep, in fact, can't pick them up with a finger nail. Just annoying on an other-wise good looking car!
__________________
ROB SAUNDERS
2004 MCS Chili Red with Black/Premium/Sport/Cold Weather/17" Kumho SPT's with Konig Reason Graphite wheels/HK with Aux In and MFSW/Pantera Grey Leather Interior/Black Bonnet Stripes/M7 Extreme Scoop/Everything except Sat Nav, but added Garmin Nuvi 350.
Do I need to strip the zaino off my car with dawn before I use the 3M swirl remover, or can I just apply it over the zaino and reapply another layer after I am done using the 3M stuff?
Swirl Remover will remove the Zaino. So just start right off with the SMR. When done, wash the car well and reapply. Be sure to prep well so the Zaino bonds correctly. Do you have Z1 or ZFX?
__________________ Bloomquist Garage! '04 PW Mini Cooper S....Gone but still here in spirit! My Other Rides.
That should work great, because I only have swirls on my black roof, so I could just re apply the zaino to that and leave the rest of the car alone. I have Z1 by the way.
Might as well be ready to handle it!
I mean, theoretically it may be possible, but practically?? Seems like some of you have been at this rather a long time...unlike me....and have seen it all.
