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Yeah I forgot to add that it's not optional for dark colors. =)
Btw, FWIW, I just rewaxed a customers black Mercedes. I had done the 12 hour detail a week ago, and then it rained. I used all Prima except for the wax, and that was a big mistake. I know!! I messed up. Anyhow, I used this sealant and it actually made the car look worse.
I told the customer to bring it back--I spent 2 hours rewashing, drying, and waxing it with Epic, and before he left, he commented that he loved the Epic look and that he was VERY glad he came back to let me redo it.
For me, that emphasized the fact that I shouldn't change what already works, and also that Epic rocks!!!!
Richard
Quote:
Originally Posted by Detailers Paradise
I agree with OctaneGuy's revision of your process with a slightpreferential variation.
In this case, the only thing I *might* change is to do the Amigo and the white pad step, not optionally.
-Heather
__________________ 5548 E. La Palma Ave., Anaheim, CA 92807 866 707 9292
Looking for Prima?? Buy Prima at ShowCarSupplies.com
11% off everyday discount code: MINI11NAM 2010 Midnight Black MCCSa
Yeah I forgot to add that it's not optional for dark colors. =)
Well, I'd still agree with you that it can be optional- even for dark colors. For example... I'm thinking of those really loooong detailing days when you've spent gads of hours with the abrasives already. Do you really want to do 2 more steps (Amigo + Epic) or just 1 step (Epic) and call it a day!
Quote:
Originally Posted by OctaneGuy
...For me, that emphasized the fact that I shouldn't change what already works, and also that Epic rocks!!!!
My brain was elsewhere obviously. I think it all started when one of my customers uses strictly Zaino products and he asked me to use something similar to his Clear Seal product, so I did, and ended up using it on the following couple of cars, only to be brought back to earth when I realized it didn't even compare to Prima...yes we all make mistakes sometimes.
Today I'm polishing out an old classic that was repainted. I've tried the PC on this, but really it's become an all rotary job, and I'm soooo pleased with how Amigo works with the RB. =) Ok...back to our scheduled Clay Topic programming...lol
Richard
Quote:
Originally Posted by Detailers Paradise
Silly Richard... what were you thinking??
-Heather
__________________ 5548 E. La Palma Ave., Anaheim, CA 92807 866 707 9292
Looking for Prima?? Buy Prima at ShowCarSupplies.com
11% off everyday discount code: MINI11NAM 2010 Midnight Black MCCSa
I was browsing DP a bit earlier today to put together an order and noticed something. There is no clay on your website, seems odd, maybe a web error?
Anyway, claying is really easy, definitely not something to be scared of. When I first started doing it I was a little nervous, but that quickly changed into "wow, this is easy and its working great".
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i'm not scared to do the claying process. i'm looking forward to it. but since i couldn't find clay on DP either i wanted to know more about it before i bought just any old piece. i ended up getting a medium grade consumer clay that i hope will work great on the boot for all that embedded stuff. i'm going to try and get real good pictures of just how crappy it is right now and follow that up with pictures of how great it comes out.
ps thanks for your help Heather it came in the mail yesterday when i got home from work.
i'm not scared to do the claying process. i'm looking forward to it. but since i couldn't find clay on DP either i wanted to know more about it before i bought just any old piece. i ended up getting a medium grade consumer clay that i hope will work great on the boot for all that embedded stuff. i'm going to try and get real good pictures of just how crappy it is right now and follow that up with pictures of how great it comes out.
ps thanks for your help Heather it came in the mail yesterday when i got home from work.
I can't wait to see your pics. I love before/after shots.
I wasn't scared of doing the clay before I saw those pics by Richard but since he's explained the different variants of clay, I feel 100% confident about doing it. I may do it next weekend, if the weather allows. This weekend doesn't look so good, too cold and too much other stuff going on (like yard prep).
I was over at DP a few days ago, they were out of clay. He said they should have more in a week or so.
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Uhm, if I may suggest, I have clay in stock, and I sell two kinds. The traditional clay and something I refer to as rubber claybar. The traditional clay is better if you're working by hand, for those working by PC, the rubber clay bar is a great alternative.
__________________ 5548 E. La Palma Ave., Anaheim, CA 92807 866 707 9292
Looking for Prima?? Buy Prima at ShowCarSupplies.com
11% off everyday discount code: MINI11NAM 2010 Midnight Black MCCSa
I also want to emphasize his advice about Finish and the white pad as being optional- very true in your situation. As long as you work Swirl long enough per ~2'x2' section (start with at least 2 minutes/section), it will correct and finish the work with one product. In some cases you can even skip the Swirl and white pad step, but probably not. The white pad tones Swirl down from the level it's at with the orange pad... effectively becoming similar to Finish.
-Heather
Heather, I got your Prima Package a few days ago and started DA Swirl last night on a Light Silver 06 Rover. I am using a GREEN LC CCS foam pad...I think that is between Orange and White. It is working fine. However, since this is the 1st time I have DA polished, I am not sure if I am doing it totally right. After polishing an area for 3-5 minutes, the Swirl is very hard to remove with a DRY Micro. If I use a quick detailer, like Last Touch by Mequiars, it comes off fine. (I have Slick, but didn't wan to waste it) In any instruction I have watched on-line, after the polish is broken down, it looks very easy to remove with a dry towel. I am wondering if I am doing something wrong. Swirl seems very, very sticky to remove. Am I breaking it down to little or too much? Or is this normal for Swirl? It seems to me that Swirl never really breaks down to a clear or very translucent color, indicating breakdown, even after 3-5 min on speed 5 of a G110 DA. I have only done the Roof and the Hood for now, and that took 3+ hours...(Lot bigger than my Mini) The results are very satifactory, but the removal of the left over Swirl seems too hard.
Also, I am NOT doing FINISH since SWIRL seems to have done fine and left no hazing or micromarring and I have A.D.D. I will probably do AMIGO with a white pad, even thought it is a light, bright silver...just to fill in any missed fine marks.
Thanks for your help.
EDITED: I have started a new thread so don't reply to this one...not really related to Claying..
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Last edited by Gumby!; 03-21-2008 at 09:26 AM.
Reason: moving to a new thread...not really related to the claying topic..
it seems to have been a great success. my boot door was absolutely FILTHY! i took the clay bar to the back of the car to see it as a test spot. it was unbelievable how smooth the paint felt afterward. I'm going to clay the whole car this weekend. i'll take some before and after photos.
but just a quick description; my paint feels like 2000 grit sandpaper except for the boot door. the boot door feels like wet ice. AMAZING!
Hand Wash with lambswool mitt and 2 buckets with grit guard (AND DAWN liquid soap)
Clay Surface
hand wash again (DELETE THIS STEP)
photo
Paint Repair
let cure
photo
next day
Hand wash
Swirl with orange pad
Swirl with White pad
Finish with white (optional and probably not needed)
Amigo with white (optional)
Epic with black
take more photos
I am guessing the DAWN is suggested for the first wash only because it is a prep for the clay bar?
Also, what does everyone suggest for claying cars with clear bras!? (Now I am starting to think getting the clear bra was a mistake because I'll never be able to fully detail my entire car as I normally would!)
I am guessing the DAWN is suggested for the first wash only because it is a prep for the clay bar?
Dawn is used in this case because it will strip the wax laid down on previous wax sessions. As noted on numerous other threads (do a search), it should not be used for regular wash sessions. Use a kinder, gentler, dedicated car wash soap.
Last edited by babydoc; 04-06-2008 at 06:50 PM.
Reason: punctuation!
There are two different kinds of car washes (the kinds that you use with a bucket--not the drive through kind)....you've got a preparation wash or a maintenance wash. When I'm about to do a full polish on a car, I want to use the products that will get the paint as clean as possible..and Dawn does a good job of this. Although people say it will dry out the plastics and rubber seals etc..I'm really using it to focus in on cleaning the paint--I'm not rubbing the plastic trim and various parts in the same as as the paint.
However if I'm doing a maintenance wash--one where the car has already been polished and waxed, and I just want a wash to clean the dirt off and keep it looking great---I won't use a soap with a strong detergent. Instead I'll use something compatible with the type of wax that I used--so if I used a synthetic polymer sealant "wax", then I'll use a car wash soap with polymers in it to enhance the look.
Richard
__________________ 5548 E. La Palma Ave., Anaheim, CA 92807 866 707 9292
Looking for Prima?? Buy Prima at ShowCarSupplies.com
11% off everyday discount code: MINI11NAM 2010 Midnight Black MCCSa
It's not that you can't--I just don't recommend it. Because the surface is rubber--it doesn't have anywhere for the picked up contaminants to go--like with clay bar--so the potential of marring the surface is much greater. However it's nothing that polishing with a RO couldn't handle.
Richard
Quote:
Originally Posted by greengobln
can you tell me about your rubber clay bar? i'm wondering why i can't use it unless i do a full polish. could you fill me in?
thanks
__________________ 5548 E. La Palma Ave., Anaheim, CA 92807 866 707 9292
Looking for Prima?? Buy Prima at ShowCarSupplies.com
11% off everyday discount code: MINI11NAM 2010 Midnight Black MCCSa
this is what i plan on doing tomorrow: wash, meguiar's clay, then wax. are those the correct steps? i've got a black 03 mcs with some prominent swirl marks.
Well, nothing in your proposed procedure will address the swirls. For that you would have to add a polish step: wash, clay, polish & wax.
There is tons of info in other threads about polishing so I won't go into it here. Suffice to say that clay will prep the surface for better wax adhesion, but will not remove swirls.
Well, nothing in your proposed procedure will address the swirls. For that you would have to add a polish step: wash, clay, polish & wax.
There is tons of info in other threads about polishing so I won't go into it here. Suffice to say that clay will prep the surface for better wax adhesion, but will not remove swirls.
should i wash between the steps or just go from wash, clay, polish, wax? yea i've been reading through the other threads but the amount of detail is overwhelming... to a noob like me!
Wash, clay, polish & wax. Depending on what kind of wax is on your MINI now, you may want to wash with Dawn (plain old blue kind). Clay needs lube and you can use either your wash water, Quick Detailer (QD) or Clay Lube. Polishing is best done with a Porter Cable Dual Action Random Orbit machine (PCDA or just PC). Read more, get Octane Guy's DVD and try it.
The weather finally cooperated and I was able to Dawn/Clay/Zaino The Dude today. The claying part was pretty straightforward, though I may not have used enough pressure on the clay. It turned out really well. The Zaino Z-2 polish was the hardest part. Not sure if it wasn't dry enough when I tried to remove it but it took FOREVER to buff into a shine. I let it dry for about 20 minutes though...they recommend 15 but I did it in the garage and it was about 70 degrees.
Absolutely. I had known about the glass claying trick for a long time but never tried it til a month or so ago. It was amazing on the windshield...took all the gunk out of the little pits and it looked so good!