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My CR/W MINI is a week old and I decided it was time to put my Prima Super Bundle to work. I had never used premium car care products before now.
I had instructed the dealership not to wash the car, so my car was fairly dirty when I picked it up.
Here are some of my observations and questions:
The mystique and wool washmitt worked well, but my mitt is still wet inside 2 days after the wash. What do you do to dry it? Is it dryer safe? Do you ever wash the mitt?
The Waffle MF drying towels worked very well. I ended up using two of them, one in each hand as i was drying. I had a wet towel and a final dry towel.
The black plastic mesh grills on the MCS are a nightmare for drying. Everytime I tried to dry a strip of paint close to the grill, more water would leak down. I think I need a leaf blower.
My car came with this wax film on the entire right rear quarter panel. The VDC pressure wash didn't succeed in removing it and the mystique didn't cut through it either. I was debating whether or not Dawn would cut through it. I didn't want to go out to the garage and experiment with an abrasive polish on my brand new car, so I looked through the bundle and pulled out the Slick. I think this is something a PC and an experienced hand could've made quick work of. With my MF buffing towel, I applied and applied, rubbed and rubbed, and buffed and buffed for about 45 minutes. It's almost all gone. There are a couple smudges that I can still see. On the brightside, I didn't remove any paint and the panel is SMOOTH. The difference between it and the passenger door is eye opening.
I also noticed, after drying, about 7 white spots on the bonnet--they look like calcified water spots. The car is garaged day and night, so I don't know when and how they got there. The Slick could not remove them. I don't know what to do about them.
Next, I applied the Epic with a skinny applicator pad. I'm not enamored with how these pads performed in different duties.
For the wax application, I found it to be a little small and difficult to work with. A MF glove struck me as a better solution. Also, the pad started to pill a little bit and there were tiny tiny crumbles of wax on parts of the car. Maybe this was a user error.
I used the monster fluffy buffing towel to remove the Epic. I was surprised at how much effort was required to remove the wax. The car looks great and I'm pleased with the Mystique/Epic combination.
Next, I tried some Black Wow on a few plastic parts. I used a pea size amount as instructed. I seem to have streaks on the fender plastic. I'm doing something wrong. I also noticed the MF skinny applicator began pilling and shedding on some of the black plastic parts. I think maybe an old cotton t-shirt would be a better applicator.
Then I moved to the interior with Nero and another skinny MF pad. I covered the dash, the doors, the plastic around the footwells and the plastic around the doorsills. I'm happy with the matte finish and that I put a layer of protection on and it doesn't look like it. That's what I wanted. I'm also glad that the smell is nice in the bottle but doesn't make the car smell like that. I'm happy with my current new car smell and didn't want some air freshener type smell fighting with it.
Lastly, I used Clarity on the windows and it worked very well.
I washed all of the cleaning instruments, except the mitt, in a bucket with liquid unscented detergent and then dried them in a dryer.
The Epic applicator pad still has wax in it. Should I throw it out and start fresh with a new one next time? Should the wax applicator be washed?
Thanks for the post and taking the time to describe how things went for a "noob". I'm in a similar situation - got my MCS about 3 weeks ago. I've been reading up here on the different alternatives for keeping things shiny and clean. Having this real world perspective is great info. Looking forward to the pics!
Good post. I cant say I was a huge fan of the skinny applicators either, although my problem was the fact that it is MF overlayed over foam or something, this makes it hard for me to keep a grip on them.
__________________ '05 HB/B MCS.
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I decided to put some Prima Epic on my new Mini after it was home for a week with only 40 miles on it. I used a microfiber mitt to clear off the dust first, then I figured a good waxing could only hope to keep it in good shape. It was my first time using Prima products as well, and I also didn't like the thin blue applicator pads. I put two pics in my gallery, and the Epic seems to have worked well. Did not use anything on the black trim or the windows yet. Just wanted to get a coat of wax on it. Let me know if the reflection on the side an rear of the car look good...
__________________ MSMingel - 2008 Nightfire Red Cabrio w/ Black Bonnet Stripes named "Randolph Wadsworth Cooper", Sport and Cold Weather packages, HK Radio, Multi-function steering wheel - ordered January 31, 2008, delivered March 1, 2008
For those water spots you could try and clay them off, should work. You will have to strip the Epic off the area though so the clay can get at them.
As for the lambs wool mitt, I rinse mine with water really well, hand ring it out, then I let it air dry with a piece of dowel in it to hold it upright.
Mark
First, it sounds like you put Epic on too thick. If it is hard to remove it was probably on too thick.
Second, your new MINI probably already had some carnuaba wax on it and/or residual Cosmoline. A Dawn wash was probably the first thing you should have done. Also never underestimate the need to clay - even a brand new car.
Finally, Like lotsie, I air dry my mitt, but I use a bent coat hanger.
Can't wait to see some pictures!
I got to use some of the new stuff I got from Detailer's Paradise for the first time today. Love the Mystique. Love the big waffle drying towels. Really giving up much love for the Hydro. The Clarity with MF cloth is amazing. I am convinced that birds will fly into the windows. Never clean windows without it again!
Didn't get to the Wheel Armour yet. Hopefully will tomorrow as I am going to wash and apply Wheel Armour and Hydro to my new wheels before I put them on.
I am going to order clay and epic next but wait to use it until I get my Clearbra installed in a few weeks.
And hey, for some of you newer OCDetailers... I love Detailers Paradise as much as anyone and I think I've financed their next building when they upgrade. But if you like THEIR waffle weave dry towels, give Griot's towels a try some time. A little bigger, absorb water just as well, and have pockets for your hands (I like that feature, keeps the towel off the ground easier).
You can purchase hand applicator pads with a nice plastic holder. This makes it easier to apply. I store my pads in plastic bags with the product they are used with written on the bag. I totally agree with the above remarks for using clay to get rid of your spots. If you are striving for PERFECTION, start over with the Dawn wash, then clay (I love the Zainostore.com clay!!) the entire car, and then re-apply your products.
__________________
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2005 Purple Haze MC
I usually touch up spots after applying the majority with my PC. I do use a Skinny Blue pad from DP to apply by hand. I put about a quarter-sized spot on the pad and then get going. You should be able to do nearly the whole car with about two tablespoons worth of Epic.
You are right about needing to over come the initial soak of the pad. The nice thing about the Skinnies is that they are so thin that there is little soak to overcome. Remember that with Epic, the thinner the application the better!
Yeah, Scooby... typical mistake. Most people tend to use too much Epic. They think of it like the old tub of Turtle Wax when half the container was needed to do a car.
Epic can bond to the paint with a layer half as thick as a sheet of paper.
One of the reasons for buying high end detailing products of any brand, is you tend to use very little of them. They may seem pricey up front, but they go a long way.
Finally, Like lotsie, I air dry my mitt, but I use a bent coat hanger.
Just make sure the coat hanger is coated, as you wouldn't want to get any rust on the mitt. The real issue is having the mitt hang with the opening for you hand down, as the inside holds water for a long time.
If you sheet the water off your paint, a single Prima Waffle Weave towel is all you need to dry your MINI, and the towel will actually be dry, not sopping wet. As long as your car is waxed--Hydro makes this very easy--just flow the water over the paint so it cascades off for the final rinse.
Blot the drops dry, then use the mostly dry towel to dry the glass, and you're done.
__________________ 5548 E. La Palma Ave., Anaheim, CA 92807 866 707 9292
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Hmmmm... I'll have to disagree with The Detailing King on this one. I sheet the water off my MINIs before drying but still don't like to use just one DP waffle weave when drying.
Yeah, it'll do the whole MINI, but... it gets wet enough that it won't pick up ALL the water and leaves a trail of tiny droplets behind that when dry, you really can't see anything, but my mind knows there's some mineral deposits left behind. And if the glass is the last thing I dry, I surely see the water and mineral residue on the glass if using just one towel.
Two DP towels does the trick for me. Or one of Griot's waffle weave towels. The Griot's towels are more expensive, IIRC, so it's pretty much a wash (pun sorta intended) on which you use.
And hey, you're going to do a load of microfiber towels anyway, might as well wash a slightly larger load.
Haha, well 2 IS better, but atleast for me, one works fine. Use Mr. Clean or Distilled Water for the final rinse and no mineral deposits to worry about, lol.
But yeah, we never skimp on our cars anyways, so one more towel isn't going to be a big deal. Can never have too many!
Richard
Quote:
Originally Posted by CR&PW&JB
Hmmmm... I'll have to disagree with The Detailing King on this one. I sheet the water off my MINIs before drying but still don't like to use just one DP waffle weave when drying.
Yeah, it'll do the whole MINI, but... it gets wet enough that it won't pick up ALL the water and leaves a trail of tiny droplets behind that when dry, you really can't see anything, but my mind knows there's some mineral deposits left behind. And if the glass is the last thing I dry, I surely see the water and mineral residue on the glass if using just one towel.
Two DP towels does the trick for me. Or one of Griot's waffle weave towels. The Griot's towels are more expensive, IIRC, so it's pretty much a wash (pun sorta intended) on which you use.
And hey, you're going to do a load of microfiber towels anyway, might as well wash a slightly larger load.
__________________ 5548 E. La Palma Ave., Anaheim, CA 92807 866 707 9292
Looking for Prima?? Buy Prima at ShowCarSupplies.com
11% off everyday discount code: MINI11NAM 2010 Midnight Black MCCSa
Here is how I dry our MINIs. I use a waffle weave to get 97.67893% of the water off. Then because I always use Hydro, I then use a Monster Fluffy to finish drying and buff the Hydro.
My drying towels don't get dirty from drying, so I just hang them up to dry after. I wash them about every 5th wash or so. Recently I have started to hang dry all my towels after washing, they "feel" better/softer, and there is the cost savings of not using the dryer. Have to defray as many costs as possible to support the OCD habit
First, congrats on your first premium car care treatment!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolfgang80
The mystique and wool washmitt worked well, but my mitt is still wet inside 2 days after the wash. What do you do to dry it? Is it dryer safe? Do you ever wash the mitt?
Others have already suggested some good tips for drying the mitt. Here are some other tips:
I do not recommend drying wool mitts in the dryer. Some people do, but the life expectancy of your wool mitt diminishes greatly when you machine wash or machine dry it.
When you're finishing using the mitt:
Dip it into your soapy water again and then work the soapy water into the mitt just a bit with your hands.
Then, while holding very tightly to the cuff, blast the mitt thoroughly with your hose to remove dirt and debris.
Wring the mitt out with your hands as best as you can and hang to dry. I usually hang it for several minutes while I'm cleaning up other things and then go back and wring it out again. It works best if you repeat the wringing a few times with several minutes between each wringing.
Hang to dry completely.
Sometimes, in humid environments it can take several days for your mitt to dry. If it's taking awhile, try the dowel or hanger tricks that lotsie and MiniMaybee suggested.
You can handwash the mitt with a wool-safe soap from time to time if you'd like. It does soften the mitt just a tad and some people just like the idea of babying their mitt too. Wool-safe soaps include Woolite and Wool Shop's Lamb's Wool Shampoo.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolfgang80
I also noticed, after drying, about 7 white spots on the bonnet--they look like calcified water spots. The car is garaged day and night, so I don't know when and how they got there. The Slick could not remove them. I don't know what to do about them.
I think you're probably correct- they are likely water spots even though it's anyone's guess as to how they got there!
If water spots are fairly fresh, then a quick detailer like Slick may do the trick. In fact, if you ever notice them right away, I recommend using Slick or anything similar right away... yes, even if your car is dirtier than it should be for you to be touching it. It's actually easier to remove light scratching that may be caused by rubbing dirty paint that it is to remove water spot etching that's allowed to sit and bake in.
In most cases, you'll need something more aggressive to remove water spots. 2 things to try are: clay and/or vinegar
If you're not familiar with clay, check out our Clay Info Sheet for more information.
To use vinegar, simply saturate a cloth or towel with white vinegar and lay it on the spots for several minutes. This allows the vinegar to work at the minerals a bit. Then wipe gently. Sometimes repeating this process or allowing the cloth to sit on the spots longer is necessary.
The potential bad news with water spots is that sometimes they will leave behind some etching. The above techniques will more than likely remove the deposits that remain on the surface of the paint. However, as the water spots sit on the paint they begin to etch it... deeper and deeper as time goes on, depending on how harsh the contents of the water are.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolfgang80
Next, I applied the Epic with a skinny applicator pad. I'm not enamored with how these pads performed in different duties.
For the wax application, I found it to be a little small and difficult to work with.
I used the monster fluffy buffing towel to remove the Epic. I was surprised at how much effort was required to remove the wax. The car looks great and I'm pleased with the Mystique/Epic combination.
The Skinny App is often preferred because it's so thin. The reason for this is so you don't lose much product in the applicator. Most liquid waxes are thin enough in consistency that much of the product can be lost in thicker style applicators.
That said though, even if most prefer the Skinny App, others prefer other apps of various sorts. No one will hold it against you if you don't like the Skinny Apps. You might find you don't mind the trade-off of losing some product to your app with a different app.
As for the difficulty in removing Epic, I have to agree with what was already suggested there... you are likely using far too much Epic per application. Also, Epic becomes more easy to remove the longer you allow it to sit there prior to buffing it off (minimum of 30 minutes in average temps/humidity although I usually recommend a hour to be safe if you can).
Each application of Epic requires only an ounce (small cars, like MINIs) to 2 ounces (large cars, like SUVs). Our 2 oz spout-top bottles are great for "rationing" Epic. Trying to figure out how much you're using from a 16 oz bottle is very difficult.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolfgang80
I washed all of the cleaning instruments, except the mitt, in a bucket with liquid unscented detergent and then dried them in a dryer.
The Epic applicator pad still has wax in it. Should I throw it out and start fresh with a new one next time? Should the wax applicator be washed?
You can machine wash just about everything except your wool mitt. We usually toss our apps right in the wash with our microfiber. Visit the sticky post at the top of Detailing 101 for tips on how to wash your microfiber.
Note that although most items can be washed whenever you get around to it, anything you've used with any durable synthetic wax (i.e. Epic) should be washed ASAP. Yes, these products are very durable and do not care if they're sticking to paint or an applicator! In these cases, I just give my apps a quick handwash in the sink with some dish soap and let air dry.
Overall it sounds like your first experience went really well. I hope the above tips help you tweak your process just a tad for an even better experience and results.
'05 HB/B MCS. 
And if the glass is the last thing I dry, I surely see the water and mineral residue on the glass if using just one towel. 
The above techniques will more than likely remove the deposits that remain on the surface of the paint. However, as the water spots sit on the paint they begin to etch it... deeper and deeper as time goes on, depending on how harsh the contents of the water are.
